Best on road ride coil over w/ 3” of lift?

Just installers experience ....

 

Originally I was gravitating toward the adjustability but now I’m leaning towards the custom tuning a couple others suggested. How do you feel about that?

 

To be honest, custom tuning is a nice added bonus, but I don’t know enough about how these shocks + adjusters will fit my needs straight out of the box to say that I need a custom tune on them. Maybe if I have them for 50k and it’s time to rebuild them, that’ll be a nice to be able to say “make them firmer/softer this time” or “valve them to be less linear and more progressive” but until then, I’m not messing the the custom tuning and I’m sure the adjusters + linear valving will already be an improvement while driving on sectioned concrete over digressive Bilsteins.

 

Maybe I missed someone already saying this, but my opinion is that your discomfort is due to using spacers for lift. Pick any good coilover shocks that allow you to lose the spacer and drive comfortably.

 

I understand the physics of it, but I don’t want to buy a set and still want more. I’m trying to do this one more time only.

 

My point is, I’d spend money on good coilovers to get the lift you want, which might also entail new upper control arms to retain the angles you need for proper alignment etc., but get rid of any use of a spacer for lift. Lots of info on here about spacers negatively effecting ride quality; however, a bigger issue in my opinion, would be spending big money on a great coilover lift but including spacers, because there’s an increased risk of collapsing your shocks using spacers, compared to not using spacers.

So my most abbreviated advice is, only consider a lift that doesn’t include a spacer. This will create better ride quality regardless of what coilovers you choose, and will protect your suspension “investment”.

 

If youre referring to large spacers disregard this, but, since no one has mentioned a 3" lift spacer.

FWIW, adding a 1/4" or 1/2" spacer will not push it into the territory of over droop that would collapse a shock that a non spacer app would not fail in. The 1"-2" spacers most certainly would, so far I dont recall anyone suggesting that though. The previous posts on running a 1/4" on top of the Toytecs will not see this failure, to be even more focal on the matter, the fact that the Toytecs have larger mounts would further decrease this risk.

There are situations that a spacer could help as well. If the truck were lifted 2.5" and the driver wanted another .5", adjusting the coilover will increase preload further, down stroke will then become as the name implies preloaded and more harsh as a result. Beyond that, depending on the lift and the shock, adjusting further may even push it outside the ride zone, placing it into the "bump zone" and again degrade the ride. This seems to be an issues that comes up for some people with OMEs, 5100s and 6112s. Coilovers, even if advertised and being able to lift 3", do have an ideal placement for ride, up and down stroke. A small spacer can allow the user to get additional lift that wont harm the components and leave the ride in the intended position of use that allows for ideal compression and droop. The 6112 thread is littered with people taking that option, personally I would even recommend people to opt for the 1.9" setting and run the shims to reach either 2.5 or ~2.9". This would leave a more balanced range of motion between limits and have less preload. The 6112s are effectively no different than the Toytecs, outside of the fact that the Toytecs can be adjusted with out disassembly.

 

After the discussions I had with Dave at Coachbuider this was pretty much his take before I dropped shims on top of expensive coilovers.

 

Excellent example Elduder We have a small window of opportunity that will allow us to dial in stance by using a shim without over cycling the coilover/strut assembly. The key is to not exceed center line of stroke, all of this is done without adding any additional preload and still giving us the option to correct driver side lean. Resulting is identical ride quality in the driver seat and passenger seat.

If you have added preload to the driver side wanting to correct the lean a simple test is to take a ride in the passenger seat and see how nice it feels compared to the driver seat
https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...ilder-strut-coilover-shim-provides-50-of-lift

 

If you don’t mind me asking what did install set you back? Just wanting to get a baseline before I go getting a quote.

 

I think these are about 90 bucks and it was about 250 to put on....

 

I mean the whole toytec setup

 

Sorry....with the forum discount about $1764.00 front and rear including tax and freight. I then bought the +3 shackles, CB shims and his bolt kit which was about 12 bucks.. and add a leaf so that was all the parts I bought since I already had UCA's. My guess is you would be looking at a grand on labor to put all this on if you did it all it once...maybe a bit less plus you will also need a front end alignment.

 

Thanks, that’s about what I was thinking.