Beginner camera: Update title: Camera guidance and help in using.

Pentax is no longer the Pentax we know as. Just, unless you have enough spare cash to burn through after Tundra, stay away from them.

It's basically how big the sensor is, and the "projected viewpoint" Full frame, as the name indicates, would give you almost 1:1 as to what you see from the viewfinder. Whereas the APS-C or cropped frame, would give you 0.6x of the view, so the view is more "cropped" as compared to full frame, using the same lenses and standing exactly at the same spot. (I'm pretty sure that 0.6x is wrong..... @BuzzardsGottaEat help me out here)
Of course, cost is gonna be a very big factor here, full frame would cost more than cropped frame, so I would still recommend jumping in with cheaper and used equipment, and then work from there. Your current equipment would most likely be cropped frame, and if you feel that limits you, your next could go for full frame...

 

I am sure others will disagree, but sometimes newer is not always better (side eye the ....ahem....)
D700, as @Xcumminsguy said, came out in 2008 and was a dominate force then, and still is today.
However, newer tech is always gonna be there and for more money, the question is, do you use it?
If yes, then by all means, get it and use it. But if no, or rarely or once in a red moon, I say don't always go for the latest and greatest, cause sometimes it is a bust. (again, side eye....

I still hang on to my 5D MK II, even though MK IV is out, the newer added function are something I don't use. 4K video? Great, but guess what? I bet 95% of the time you will pull the cellphone to do that video. Using DSLR to video is more than just pointing and hit start, lens, focus, depth, everything. Doing it wrong and your output is worse than my 7 year old with a 15 year old camera phone....
If given a chance, I would still buy the 5D MK II, and like others have said, lenses are where the money is at. Get a good solid body and it will likely outlast your hobby time.
The big three I have had, Canon 5D MK II, Nikon D700, Sony Alpha 9.

 

Plenty of YT Vids explaining benefits of both. Here’s one I just ran through.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0zTfbk7C_C8&pp=0gcJCX4JAYcqIYzv

 

I started with film, as all of us old guys did, with a Canon AE-1. Decades later bought a Nikon D80 as an intro to digital. Graduated to the older, but better for my purposes, D700. Considering an upgrade to a video capable body like a D750, 800, or 810 to use with the D700, but my heart will always be in still photography over video. Advantage is my D700 lenses will work with a video camera as well. With lots of cash tied up in Nikon glass at this point I’ll never switch back to Canon.

 

I mean, the Canon AE-1 was unbreakable.....lol
My Canon 7D would do videos, HD. Which in today's standard, old tech from three lives ago.....
Even back then, the output was "meh" at best....
I got it for the crop frame, I do love it with the 24-70mm F2.8, while the 5D MK II gets the 50mm F1.8 STM.
I do need to get a better lens for the MK II, but dishing out $1400 for the EF 50mm f1.2L is a little too rich for my blood.
I did rent one to try out and man, I loved it! but just totally out of my price range...
https://www.usa.canon.com/shop/p/ef...-HGk86VJVgFQVo93krUW5zzKDJ8c0oq6_qtRCABui3WUd

 

Thank you! This explains why when I look at the viewer, what I get is less than what I saw. I don't like that. So I am already looking at a "full frame". I will have to keep that in mind as I begin.

 

That does help. I think my hard thing right now is not knowing all that I will need or want. I do some video, but it is very, very little. Most of what I would do is pictures.

 

Thank you for the video. Will watch that when I can. My dad used to have a black room in our basement, and I remember that he had some major lenses and a 35mm B&W film. When he would travel around, either going to town, or on a trip, he would bring the camera with him to snap the pictures he saw. I remember seeing a few of them. Wish I still had them. So I am familiar with film as well.

Ask me how I know the black room has to remain black . He was not happy when we, as little kids, wandered in there to be with him!

When you speak of lens connections, I am wondering how this works. I know some have to have adapters, and that has also been slowing me down on decision because, what connections work with what?

 

Just keep manufacturers the same and you should be good to go. 3rd party lenses have specific mounts for the various bodies , and these lenses can range from pretty good to absolute junk. As a rule though I’m a buy once, cry once type of guy and stay with manufacturer lenses.

 

It is 2025, my guess is your cellphone is something within the last 3 years, if not less.
If so, those are capable of producing great videos, with some apps and knowledge of how videos work and should be framed to work.

Pictures, as much as people claim, DSLR still and will continue to produce better big format output, period.
This chart below shows how much the sensor size differs, and as much as people will swear by their iPhone camera, the fact is that the sensor size is WAY different, and therefore, details/color range will differ, a lot.
So I would say this, if you decide to go down this rabbit hole with your kid(s), pick a system (nothing is worse than the other), stick to it, get a good solid body for years to come (used is great in this case), start spending on lenses, those will make or break your output. Oh, and a good computer, cause chances are you need to store and post-edit. That's another money pit right there.....lol

 

Interesting. So, for my use case, as I see now, I would want the full frame. Pics of the family, and our location is what I am doing. I do like having the subject clear and the background blurry, but then change that up. As for range, etc, I can get the lenses to make the adaptation if need be. So I seem to be needing a decent body and a wide range of lenses and just learn how to use them.

 

Thank you. I appreciate the advice. I will stick with the brand to the camera I get, if I start getting that deep into it. And I hear you. I like the buy once, cry once, but I also want a good ROI. Sometimes a lesser cost item performs to what I need but costs less than the "higher grade". In those instances, I save money AND get done what is needed . I love when it works out that way.

Thanks. My cell is not the best with the camera. It does a little, but my phone, I purchased, is just that. A phone. I am looking for a good body and will start looking at lens selections.

As for computer, I use a Linux, and run that as a daily. So I am limited on what programs. However, I do have some stuff with Linux that can edit and then posting, I don't really post a lot of pics. This website will be my first one I have done any MAJOR posting.

 

Ah, OK. I would still say, don't try rely on a DSLR to do video, it is not what it was made for.
Linux, I run that with my Windows (my side-job software is Windows only....) on my computer and I have three MacBook Air/Pro....
I would say research on GIMP (3.0 just came out like, 30 days ago? It's a big upgrade from the 2.x, just know that the learning curve is still there), darktable, RawTherapee, Inkscape, based on what you need, but GIMP should cover your 90% usage, the rest? Try something else.....

 

I do use GIMP, so I will jump on that now.

PM sent.

 

1.6x Canon, 1.5 Sony/Nikon/Fuji

 

OK, I was half wrong, I was off by a digit....lol
Thank you for your correction.

 

Sony a6000 ($350)
https://www.adorama.com/us1924180.html

Sigma 19mm 2.8 ($109)
https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sigma-19mm-f-2-8-dn-art-sony-e-fit/sku-3020812

About as budget as it’s going to get for a decent Mirrorless camera and mid focal length lens.

That might be a bit wide for some at 29mm equivalent focal length.

Another option:

Sony 28mm f/2 (42mm equivalent) $199
https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-fe-28mm-f-2/sku-3066000
This is as “standard” of a focal length as you can get. 40-42 is considered dead middle, not wide, not long, just middle focal length.

 

I have a Sony A6100 with the Sony 18-105 F4. Two things I wanted was compact form factor and cheap. Got both on sale years ago but great for trips and it was the only reason I got it. If I could do it again I’d buy something in body stabilization for video, but I still have not outgrown my very recreational use of this camera. The GoPro fits the bill for all my video needs.

 

Just catching up with the comments. Thank you @Ghost Rider, @BuzzardsGottaEat, and @khooiii. I appreciate the comments.

I am going to pose a thought, and please correct me if I am wrong. A full frame, based on the chart and video above, will capture things as they are. Hence I will need zoom lenses if I need to get closer.

The crop or the APS-C, if I am remembering right, has a 1.6x zoom built in. So I can get the distance a little better but close shots have to have some space.

Then I am dealing with cost. I was going to really look at the full frame, I am seeing several recommended, and several good ones, but they are over my budget. @BuzzardsGottaEat gave some really good links, but I am then needing to buy lenses, and other gear and I am already over my budget.

So here is my proposal and where I need advice.

Since I am just getting into this, start at the lowest level I can that includes everything. Then I can start out practicing and working through it, knowing it will not be my last camera, but will grow with me.

If that is the case, then start with an APS-C or crop, and get an intro level. Then I build from there. The only thing I will have to do is to buy the bodies as my needs and skill changes.

Am I thinking through this correctly? Thanks.

 

Bingo. Honestly, I’ve never noticed the distance with the APSC. If you use a prime lens you’ll be walking a lot more anyways. Or find a deal on marketplace for a used higher end camera. Everyone has brand preference. Sony is cool because the apsc lenses work with full body cameras so long as they’re e mount. So if you upgrade the body you’re not buying new lenses at the same time.

 

Thanks and great pick.

That is the very thing I am also balancing. I want to make sure that as I buy lenses, I am able to carry them over without having to spend a whole lot more .

I do a lot more walking and pic taking as I am walking. Right now just with the wife's phone. But I guess it is time to get something more dedicated to it.

Thank you for the help!

 

Quick update: Camera purchased. I really appreciate the help and offer in this thread.

I did pick up a Nikon D3400 with a standard 18-55 lens, with a neck strap for less than $270. I have a hard sided case from Harbor Freight that I have just had laying around and I am going to use that as a case.

Next step is practicing and taking pictures. So I will contribute some to this thread as I can.

Thank you all for everyone's help!

 

Awesome news!

I may be listing mine for sale shortly.

 

The D90 is a very respected model, even though it was announced in 2008, it is bulkier and heavier than some recent ones, also sensor is not as great as some, it still gives some pretty damn decent photos when done right. And yes, it is a very decent beginner/mid-learning camera. The next up would be the single digits....which you would add at least one "0"
Just for giggles and references, D6 body only is at $6500.....which is a SC already, or almost.....

 

Yeah, this guy that inquired about it who taught me about how to obtain the flash count told me it was a pretty good camera and at my asking price was a pretty good deal. He ended up not buying it because he found one closer to home.
So now this thread has motivated me to list it here and see if maybe I can find someone interested.

 

If what you posted on the first page here is what you are asking, I think it is a steal.
Too bad I am in the Canon camp now, I had and used D3x before, super good camera for that time and age, and of course, price.....lol
Let's not go down that rabbit hole now.....lol (I still remember the days when I had a Canon 5D, Nikon D3x and Sony a9 (alpha 9))
Those days were when the whole house's most prized places were where those camera sat, and the kitchen, period....lol

 

Thank you Ghost Rider

I just listed it so hopefully I'll get a couple interested people on here. Haven't had any luck locally on OfferUp or Marketplace so maybe the Tundra community will change that. I don't know much about cameras so I'm kinda going in blind here so thank you. Listed it a lil higher than what I offered OP to allow a bit of wiggle room for negotiation

 

Scanned and saw your post. I will also keep my ears and eyes open with my circle and share your ad with them. I do agree with what @Ghost Rider said. It is a good camera from what I studied, and it was a good deal. I appreciated the offer, and I hope you sell it quick!

 

Change of direction and question:

I am starting to practice using the A, P, M, G settings, and I am working with adjusting my ISO and shutter speed. Here is my problem, and I apologize ahead of time for not having the exact numbers.

I adjusted my shutter speed to 1:25 and my F to 5.4 (I think is what it was). I was following some of the guidelines in the manual that help with either showing a blur of moving objects, or bluring out the background, etc.

However, what I am noticing is that the pictures come out either extremely dark to the point it looks like it was taken in a dark room, or it is flushed out with light.

Am I missing something? Is there a way, and if I am reading the manual right, I not only have to adjust the ISO, or the Focal, but I also have to adjust the lighting as well? Or does the camera do that automatically?

Taking it out camping tonight and want to catch some different shots as well.

Thanks.

 

So, the higher number the F, the lesser light you will get at a given time (shutter speed)
The higher ISO number indicates greater sensitivity to light, meaning the camera can capture more light in the same amount of time.

So, if you main focus is to get a clearer picture (meaning, viewable, enough light) then your F would need to be lower, and ISO higher, but not too high, because once you get past 800/1600, you start seeing "grain" on the photos, especially when you enlarge it by 50x, the subject is basically a ballistic of color blocks, not circles.... Those "grains" are also referred to as "noise" because it does bring more disorientation to the picture itself.

As for blurring out the background, bokeh, you need lower F number, also making sure your focus is on said subject, and that it is standing out against the said background.