Been changing oil every 10k. Did this affect my car?

My Skid plate has an access port, so is pretty easy. A long habit, cost and time savings, and less waste. I have 4 cars and 6 motorcycles. I change the oil and filter at 5K until I am past the initial wear-in period which I consider 15-20K, I go to this pattern.

I buy new and keep vehicles 15+ years. My 06 Jeep Commander is about to turn 200K without a single mechanical issue other than a solenoid pack in the trans at about 120K. Of course this mandates using a quality or OEM filter. I use the Mopar for Jeep, Toyota for the Tundra, the Ford Racing for the Mustang and Mahle for the wife's car. Even at 10K miles a quality filter is no where near 'needing' to be replaced on a healthy engine. I also run a magnetic drain plug in all my cars and motorcycles.

It's just something I do. YMMV

 

15-20k, wow. That's impressively long for most OCI opinions in this chat. I couldn't comfortably go that long personally. I'll just continue my unlikely need for paranoia.

 

LOL, NOOOOO.... I change the filter with every oil change at 5K until the 15-20K range, then I start do oil every 5 and change the filter with the oil at 10K. I edited the original to clarify.

 

OEM Toyota filters are less than $4 and can be bought at Walmart. It’s stupid not to change it if you’re already changing the oil.

 

What Walmart do get any oil filter for less then $4

Here in MA
Still pretty cheap I agree though cant see changing oil and not filter

 

You use the self checkout aisle.

(wink)

 

Re-checking the maintenance history, previous owner on my truck changed the oil every 12k-15k (with full synthetic, history docs don't say which brand), it has 102k now, runs like a top. I'll come back and update here when the engine fails or it starts burning any oil. I'll definitely be holding my breath.

 

He was probably referring to the price a week ago.

 

I used to use 0w-20 Amsoil OE at 5k change interval with a Toyota filter.
I switched to 5w-30 Amsoil OE and was amazed at how much the drivetrain quieted down.
So amazed in fact I switched to 5w-30 in our Suburban from 0w-20 and had a similar effect. If you are not aware the GM 5.3L drivetrains is one of the noisiest I have ever heard.

Recently started reading about LiquiMoly offerings and folks claimed how quiet and smooth LiquiMoly was compared to other brands.

So this last oil change I switched to 5w-30 LiquiMoly Molygen. Yes, the oil is FLUORESCENT GREEN.
The Tundra drivetrain got even quieter, truck runs smoother, and startup up is much softer.

My last change where I drained the Amsoil was my 95-100k change. I sent that oil off to Blackstone and am awaiting results.

I am about 2.5k miles into LiquiMoly right now thanks to my Bengals having playoff games in Buffalo and Kansas City. So I drove far more than I usually do in two weeks.
I’ll swap out oil at 105k and I will send the LiquiMoly out to Blackstone to compare it to the Amsoil.

 

I wouldn't qualify sitting in traffic as extensive idling. Police cruisers or the guys checking meters, or a contractor that never turns the car off except at night, that's extensive idling. I'm also not an engineer, but have been in the industry where vehicle idling is an issue, and sitting in traffic is not one of them.

 

I ran 0w-20 for the 1st 55k miles. Just switched to 5w-30. the motor is MUCH quieter.

Kirkland's for the win.

 

Expensive oil. It got outperformed by Amazon basics synthetic in Project farms testing.

 

IMHO Amazon basics anything is subpar.

That's a curious test. I wonder if Amazon paid for it?

Here's a link to a very long page of an engineer who stress tested a very very large number of oils. His methodology looks sound to me. But, wow, his web page could use some serious organization!

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Search for this on the page to jump to wear the data begins: The “WEAR PROTECTION RANKING LIST” itself, begins here

It places Amsoil 5W-30 Signature at #2. Quaker State Full Synthetic is #1.

Amazon Basics ranks at #203.

<shrug>

His note about Amsoil severe gear oil is disconcerting. I may have to go change mine now.

 

There’s a reason Chevrolet is an acronym for Cracked-Heads-Every-Valve-Rattles-Oil-Leaks-Engine-Ticks

 

Happen to have a link to that test?
I can only find where he compares it to LiquiMoly TopTec.
Which is a fairly different formulation than the Molygen.

But being that it is $20 per oil change I think I can deal with the underperforming oil.

The LiquiMoly is far quieter and smoother than the Amsoil and it really was not bad to begin with.

 

Very curious to see comparisons on the post-oil change results between the Amsoil and LiquiMoly.

 

Oh dang - what’s wrong with Severe Gear? I replaced Royal Purple with it because the internet told me RP sucked…

 

Internet told me the same thing. I've got RP in my 2000 front and rear diff and transfer case. It was on clearance for 12.99 a quart or something so I grabbed it. Guess it's gonna explode.

 

It's Project farm, he has no sponsorship for any of his tests. He does a mix of practical and scientific tests to demonstrate different characteristics of products. He does a good job of trying to have a level playing field, so his results have some meaning. His videos also contain almost no fluff and he's a fast talker. All substance, not just a bunch of nonsense to fill time.

You are correct, he tested the TopTec and not the Molygen. It looked like oil, not the nuclear snot you described. Appears to test well.

 

Nuclear snot sounds like exactly what I want to run in my engine, especially if it quiets it down a bit!

And wow is that 540ratblog page unreadable, impressive.

 

I think it looks more like Hi-C Ecotocooler personally.
But it only stays like that for about 1k miles so you can check for leaks with a UV light.

You are correct about trying to read that thing. I tied to go looking for the Amsoil Severe Gear reference since that is what I have used for quite a many years now.

 

if you search just for "severe gear" you'll find his discussion on it. the whole page reminds me of my dad extolling the wonders of vitamin C as a cure for cancer, but it appears this guy actually used some sort of science or at least pseudoscience that has some merit.

On the one hand, I wouldn't object to finding where the two oil leaks I have are, but on the other hand I am 99.5% sure that one of them is a spark plug tube seal and the other is cam tower and i kinda don't want to know that.

 

I did some more reading after posting that. LOTS of people swear by Amsoil SVG oil. However the 75w140 seems to be the really popular stuff, not 75w90.

I have to think his PSI result is meaningful for engines, but not so much for differentials?

I was thinking I should check my rear diff oil, but not entirely sure what I'd look for aside from leaks!? I think it's well established that color doesn't matter much, if at all?

 

If you have a magnetic drain plug, you'd want to see if it is picking up magnetic dust... not sure if ours have that or not.

How often are y'all changing diff/transmission/transfer case oils?

 

Diff and t-case is every 30k, unless you tow a lot, then I think its every 15k.

 

That requires draining the fluid? I will definitely check it when it comes to change the fluid.

I think my '15 has a magnetic drain plug.

 

Yeah severe gear is what I use in the diffs and won't be stopping that practice anytime soon. Also use RP synchromax in the transfer case.

 

75w90 or 75w140 for the SVG?

 

If you really want to go down a rabbit hole on this subject, head over to bobistheoilguy.com. This has been discussed to many lengths and just about as clear as it boils down to what you think is best.