Bearing issues in 3 wheels

Also had speed sensor ($550) issue in back left rear. Toyo says that 2 completely independent issues that just happened at the same time.

I mainly use it to drive to work 10 mins away, weekend trips to go fishing in mtns, get about 10 loads of firewood per yr. Sound odd to any of you?

Whole story - was driving on I-85/40 to outer banks last weekend, near greensboro my dashboard lit up with SPEED SENSOR, ABS, 2WD, 4WD, ABS, Traction Control, (!). SO, I pulled over in the E-laneand called closest toyo dealer. They said ok to drive there so I did and they said it was 99.99% sure that it is the speed sensor. So I told them to fix it. 125 miles after they fixed it on I-40 all of the lights came back on. I called them and they said OK to drive on to the beach and just stop on the way back. So I did. They told me that the speed sensor was fine that it was the back left bearing(s) throwing grease on the sensor. 2 non-related issues, meaning the 1st sensor was bad. They said they tested it. The new one was still good but the bearings ($1000 each) in my back left were bad. They didn't have the part so I drove another 4 hrs home and let my home toyo service check it out. They said it was the back 2 wheel bearings and that the front right bearing was "fair". FAIR? well, fair to me stinks if it means I get stuck in the sand again at the outer banks like I did last week. I got stuck because while 4WD works with all of those lights flashing, Traction Control (I could not turn on or off, it was auto on in the failed state) also works which is NOT good in sand. Anyway, I think it stinks and pretty weak considering mileage and how I use it. I'm pleading my case to Toyo Corp to see what they will do. Anyone ekse have this issue? Thanks.

 

By "of course" do you mean that for some reason 2016's are prone to this issue?

 

I am amazed at the uniformity of modern anti-friction bearings. Seventy-five percent of your wheel bearings failed almost simultaneously. I'm guessing extreme corrosion will be appearing shortly.

Tundras are clearly unsuitable for your intended service. Raise hell with Toyota, then buy a Ford just to show them.

 

How often are you in sand? Are you taking the truck into the salt water?

 

No, sorry, "of course" was for the "tundra" meaning of course I'm talking Bout a tundra.. thx.

 

It was the first time, and did not get wheels anywhere near the water. And given what Toyota dealership service dept in Greensboro says, it happened before I even got to the beach. Thx. Which your Q brings to mind another Q, do all.of those trucks that back there boats down into the saltwater at boat ramps all have bearing issues? Are the bearings not sealed? I really don't know. Just trying to figure out if I did anything wrong. Im coming up empty. Thx

 

What would extreme corrosion be from? I bought it new. I live in the south so we do not get much snow and resultant sand /salt on the road. I maintain it as recommended. I keep it clean.

 

Any time you have simultaneous failure of more than one of a component, like a wheel bearing, you can conclude that you have subjected the machinery to a condition beyond it's design scope. As for backing a Tundra into water to launch a boat, my opinion is if you have to back a truck, any truck, into the water above the rear axles you are incurring risk. And, I've never owned a boat. Driving in the surf could have it's rewards, but it does incur some risk.

OR...If you happen to be a paranoid misanthrope conspiracist like me, the alternate theory is that there was initially some minor problem causing all the dash lights before you went to the beach. The service guys couldn't find the problem, but were annoyed with your call back. They decided to give you an expensive reliability lesson ($$$$). Furthermore...Toyota has assisted them in their vile purpose.

That's why I drive a Toyota...I don't really want anyone touching my vehicle.

 

What's your wheel/tire setup?

Bad bearing will cause erroneous WSS issues. Typically when they are occurring at the same time it's only the bearing that bad.

 

What year/mileage? Did I miss that??

 

His info states MY16 but no mention of mileage anywhere in his post

 

Title and post appear to have been edited slightly. I believe he said 68K miles earlier. I would consider one wheel bearing failure to be early at that mileage.

 

Didn't I read somewhere that a battery on it's way out can cause funny error messages like speed sensors and ABS errors?

A 2016 with an original battery could be due for replacement.

As for wheel bearings, if they're really bad, you'd feel it or hear it. I'd go to an independent shop for replacement. Might be $300/wheel rather than $1K.

 

Yes, I'm pretty sure the quoted prices where probably dealer numbers and no where near the price if you do it yourself.

 

First off, many of the dealers don't know what the heck they are talking about.
Just an observation, I'm willing to bet you gave both the dealers way too much info, going to the beach, drove in the sand, what the first dealer said, etc. I'm not bagging on you at all, it happens.
The odds are not likely that 3 bearings all went bad at once and there is no such thing as a bearing being in fair condition, it is or it isn't. And if the sensor is failing because of grease on it, thats a seal, not a bearing.

I'd be willing to bet money they did NOT test the failed wheel sensor either.

 

If bearings were truly mechanically defective (pitting, spalling, corrosion, etc, etc, etc) then...you aren't driving 4 hours.

Sorry but if bearings were really that bad, then its a safety issue, and a rather big one, and if I'm mechanic or shop foreman, I'm asking for a release, and not doing this over the phone...

To get to the cause of this:

Was lubrication volume, flow, temp adequate for the service?
Was there an exposure to something like water intrusion that may have contaminated lubricant?
Applies to grease and gear lube.

How were bearings diagnosed? visual? or with vibration spectrum?

Past good information pertinent to the above, its hard for me to jump to 'defective' as a cause.

Sounds more to me like the seal went out and the mechanic needs to make a snap-on payment.

And even then the seal may have gone out because of contaminant in lubricant, or the vent was plugged up.

 

My bad, it happened at 67,000 miles. 7,000 miles outside of warranty. Still within 5 yrs of course but we know how that works.

 

No, that was the first time and it happened before I went in the sand per them as the messages appeared prior to my arrival at the beach.

 

Thanks, I can hear it. I heard it before during the week leading up to the trip. Earlier that week I had just gotten new tires as well, and a different brand and are aggressive/AT tires, so I thought the new brand was giving a new "sound".

 

Couple of antidotal items:

1) I’ve driven on a bad rear driver bearing for about 6 years (50k miles) and the noise rolls through the cab. Fixed it when the noise went next level unbearable.

2) Transient Current can make a bearing(s) fail. Study up on it.

3) Having your recent tires and the correlation of noise/CEL is a good place to start on trouble shooting.

 

Don’t always believe the dealer, yesterday I went in to get an alignment because I took off my kings to get rebuilt and put stock shocks back on. I know the truck leans on the d-side and it’s a somewhat common thing with tundras but I told them to look into it make sure it’s nothing else. Of course they are trying to make money out of me and tried to tell me the springs are reversed from the p-side to d-side on the coilovers that’s why it’s leaning which is hilarious and it’ll be $350 for that when I just came in for an $80 alignment. I laughed and said just do the alignment it drives fine I can deal with the lean. Anyways, like others have said before bearings will give you fair warning before they go out.

 

Thanks everyone, so, I took it to what I consider a reliable mechanic and they said that the bearings are actually good but the magnet in the bearings (way I understood the location) is breaking apart on just one wheel.

 

Probably the speed sensor on one wheel. Bad input from speed sensor jacks with the stability control, ABS, etc. Congrats on seeking honest professional help. You will save a TON of cash from not authorizing un-necessary work.

 

Give that guy a tip.

 

Unfortunately, the amount to fix is the same as it's all the same part/same amount of work.

 

Better than 3