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Ball joints upper and lower

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Built2last23, Dec 27, 2017.

  1. Dec 27, 2017 at 9:41 AM
    #1
    Built2last23

    Built2last23 [OP] New Member

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    just wondering how hard it is to switch out the ball joints. Want to do them but not sure how long. And what kind should I roll with.?
     
    PRO BLANCO likes this.
  2. Dec 27, 2017 at 10:07 AM
    #2
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

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    What year truck?
     
  3. Dec 29, 2017 at 8:30 PM
    #3
    Built2last23

    Built2last23 [OP] New Member

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  4. Dec 29, 2017 at 9:08 PM
    #4
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

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    I'm not super familiar with 2nd gen as it's been a while since I had one. But, I think Moog is good brand and with a simple press type tool that you can either buy (I bought one for about $25) or rent it should be pretty easy.
     
  5. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:26 PM
    #5
    Toker

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    where did you find a press for 25.00 will it work on the upper joints on a 04 tundra :smash:
     
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  6. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:29 PM
    #6
    PRO BLANCO

    PRO BLANCO Loving Canada’s oil and gas!

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    Welcome!
     
  7. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:29 PM
    #7
    PRO BLANCO

    PRO BLANCO Loving Canada’s oil and gas!

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    Welcome also!
     
  8. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:31 PM
    #8
    Toker

    Toker New Member

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    the cheapest i found was on ebay for about 75.00 for a 21 pcs kit
     
  9. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:38 PM
    #9
    dcsleeper408

    dcsleeper408 BASTRDS

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    joonbug likes this.
  10. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:42 PM
    #10
    Toker

    Toker New Member

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    where i am you either rent to whole kit or buy it 125.00+ any auto part in houston tx and thats for a 12 pcs i can buy a 21 pcs ebay 75
     
  11. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:50 PM
    #11
    dcsleeper408

    dcsleeper408 BASTRDS

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    The press from autozone has a few you can use.. but the one that works best is the Honda/toyota socket I linked.
     
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  12. Jan 29, 2018 at 11:52 PM
    #12
    dcsleeper408

    dcsleeper408 BASTRDS

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    Press kit is expensive.
    The Honda/toyota socket is like $20-$30
     
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  13. Feb 1, 2018 at 8:21 AM
    #13
    Mike's Custom Toys

    Mike's Custom Toys New Member

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    Stay away from Moog Lower's. We see too many fail under a year, yes they have a lifetime warranty but who wants to change them out for a "Lifetime". On that model Tundra OEM or 555 is the best route. Watching trucks come in on the slidebed with a sheared lower ball joint is a scary site.
     
  14. Feb 11, 2018 at 4:34 AM
    #14
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    What are pressing? There's 4 bolts and you replace the arm with the ball joint in it. Most time you need Oxy/Acl torches to heat up the metal surrounding those bolts. Go to Rock Auto and order the Beck Arnley ones, If you better, go to the dealer....mooge sucks. I had a Mooge only last 2 years, The Becks are holding up. $114 shipped for the pair. go to web crawler and find the 5% off discount code. Besides those 4 bolts, very easy job. (I've been using Beck/Arnley parts for 30 years.)
     
  15. Apr 2, 2018 at 4:13 PM
    #15
    ladywolf

    ladywolf New Member

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    So....the dreaded LBJ issue carried over from 4runners to the tundras? Good to know not to go aftermarket on them! Whats the recommended change interval?
     
  16. Apr 2, 2018 at 5:21 PM
    #16
    UTTundra

    UTTundra New Member

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    I don't know if there's a recommended change interval for LBJ's. Just something you have to monitor (leaks, creaks, play in wheel, etc.).

    I purchased a set of the Moog lowers but have not installed them yet. The arms themselves are good quality, but obviously I have no idea about the bushings and bj's they come with. My lowers were made/assembled in Taiwan. Doesn't necessarily mean the bushings/bj's were made there, too. I'm looking at replacing the bj's that they came assembled with with the Moog K-series bj that might still be made in Japan or the Beck Arnley.
     
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  17. Apr 3, 2018 at 2:18 AM
    #17
    ladywolf

    ladywolf New Member

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    Thanks Lou. Being as my truck has 207k now....I think the ball joints were replaced at 30k or so (recall) its probably about time to replace them. The parts list is growing.....again. UGH.
     
    UTTundra likes this.
  18. Dec 7, 2019 at 9:01 PM
    #18
    Bulldogs2741

    Bulldogs2741 New Member

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    I have a 2000 Tundra and replacing the LBJ’s. I was just wondering if I should replace the UBJ’s as well while I’m at it?Is it a big price difference in labor since I’m probably going to have a shop do the change for me? I bought the OEM LBJ’s but should I purchase uppers too, and if so do they have to be oem as well? Thanks for any advice.
     
  19. Dec 7, 2019 at 9:41 PM
    #19
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Yes, stick with OEM. They may charge you more for the uppers as they have to be pressed out. The lowers are a lot easier.
     
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  20. Dec 8, 2019 at 6:55 AM
    #20
    Mr. Pink

    Mr. Pink New Member

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    Hammer is your best bet
     
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  21. Dec 8, 2019 at 3:45 PM
    #21
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Hammer has always worked for me. You only need a press if your trying to reuse the BJ.
     
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  22. Dec 9, 2019 at 2:11 PM
    #22
    Bulldogs2741

    Bulldogs2741 New Member

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    Just checked at a local shop that specializes on Toyota's and they are charging $760 for just service to replace upper and lower ball joints. I am supplying the parts. Does that sound right? I am just waiting to hear back from a few other shops to see what they would charge.
     
  23. Dec 9, 2019 at 2:45 PM
    #23
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Sounds like they are assuming 6-7 hours of labor. Seems high. The lowers are supposed to be pretty easy. You might want to consider doing at least those yourself. Should be videos online. Or find another shop. Ball joints aren't all that complicated. Have a good independent shops near you.

    I paid $700 in labor to have new ball joints, tie rods, coilovers and upper control arms installed. That was 7 hours of labor.

    So I think you can find a better price.
     
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  24. Dec 9, 2019 at 3:11 PM
    #24
    Bulldogs2741

    Bulldogs2741 New Member

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    That's what I was thinking as well. The shop quoted $430 for the lowers and $330 for the uppers. I thought I'd be able to do the lower but figured if they are doing the upper ball joints might as well swap out the lowers too but if it's going to be another $430 then I can just do that myself. Seems weird that they would charge more for the lower since it is easier to change out and you don't have to press the joint into the knuckle like you do the uppers.
     
  25. Dec 9, 2019 at 3:14 PM
    #25
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty Desert rat

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    I’m guessing markup on the lowers is what brings it above the price of the uppers. Lowers can be done super fast if you have all the tools(like a shop would.
     
  26. Dec 9, 2019 at 3:50 PM
    #26
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Lowers are a ten minute job with a hammer and a wrench once the tire is off.
     
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  27. Dec 9, 2019 at 4:05 PM
    #27
    Bulldogs2741

    Bulldogs2741 New Member

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    Yeah that’s why I was wondering why that price was so high. Guess I’ll look elsewhere than that shop.
     
  28. Dec 9, 2019 at 4:08 PM
    #28
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    If you are going to own an old truck you have to learn how to be your own mechanic or become independently wealthy. Ball joints are a great place to start. Once you do your first one you wont believe you ever even thought about paying someone to do it.
     
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  29. Dec 9, 2019 at 4:11 PM
    #29
    Bulldogs2741

    Bulldogs2741 New Member

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    Cool, thanks. I’m a teacher so I’ll have some time to get that done over the Christmas break! :santa: I’ll get those lowers taken care of myself then.
     
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  30. Dec 9, 2019 at 5:14 PM
    #30
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    This is a decent video on how to do it. This guy uses a ball joint press, which you can buy or rent pretty easily...

    I use a hammer to accomplish the same thing, albeit, louder and harder. If you use hammer find a metric nut, any nut and thread it over the end of your tie-rod end joint when you remove it so you are hammering on the nut, rather than the threaded bolt. (Unless you are also replacing your tie-rod) With the lower ball joint, it doesn't matter if you bung up the threads, because you are replacing it anyway.

    DON'T just use the castle nut that you took off the tie-rod end or lower ball joint, its soft and the way its made can still screw up the threads if you hammer on it.

    One of the great things about working on suspension parts is that you aren't dealing with fragile little parts, but rather big, solid chunks of metal meant to take the abuse of driving so you can be a lot rougher than you can generally be compared to say, replacing a leaking valve cover gasket or something. Its one class of repairs where it is acceptable to just get a bigger hammer if you run into trouble.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6evii7Ki-4M
     

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