Backing Plates

I have developed the "Well, while I'm in here.." disorder. Started with me fixing the parking brake cable. Now, I'm replacing all of the rear brakes' hardware, cylinders, shoes, cables, drums, wheel bearings seals and the backing plate. I have everything I need to complete the job ie. parts, press, axle shaft adapter for the press. My question now resides with the backing plate. I've found little to no info on a backing plate removal and replacement. A couple videos but different vehicles and not the same kind of hub. A thread that started with talking about the backing plate then veered off in the wheel bearing direction. Once the shaft is removed from the axle, then from the axle bearing case, what is the best way to divorce the backing plate from the axle bearing case? Is it as simple as using a bfh or some delicate press work? What's the best way to go about this? TIA

 

@bmf4069 im wondering if you can answer this one. And I’m sure you’ll inject some stern warnings about wheel bearing pressing and how easy it is to f-up.

@Altitude you know there’s a copy of the FSM in the sticky “so you just bought a 1st Gen Tundra” megathread, right? It gives all instructions required for most maintenance.

 

@shifty` thanks for the response! I looked through my Haynes one and didn't see it. I forgot about the one posted in that sticky thread. Looked and sure enough, there it was. Obviously the steps make it seem easy but we'll see if it wants to budge. When I do it, I'll post pics in here and share how it worked out.

 

This video splains it all.
You first pop a stud out and use the press tool to pull the tone and retainer rings. Then remove the snap ring and replace the stud, then use the press tool to push the axle off the backing plate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY8pljevOY4

 

@FrenchToasty That's a great video and I like his method of using the pipe to get the bearing and ABS wheel back on but he doesn't explain how to remove the shaft bearing case from the blacking plate. He only goes as far as removing the shaft from the backing plate with the bearing case still pressed into the backing plate. I can't seem to find any videos that go that far. I might be over thinking it but it seems like it'll be a pain. In all the videos I've watched that is a wheel bearing replacement, (the closest I can get) that extra step of changing the plate isn't mentioned. My plate is quite rusted so I'd really like to replace it. Might just be a trial and error kinda thing.

 

Is the “shaft bearing case” and the backing plate two separate pieces?
I assumed it was all one. If anything it’s held in with the pressed studs(one of the ones you pop out, to press)

edit, yeah after seeing that pic, I’m sure it’s just held in with the 4 pressed studs

 

I edited the above post with the IPB. Yeah, it seems that way though. Once the studs are out, it "should" be able to get knocked free.

 

You got it toyota

 

we'll see

 

I also mentioned this in another thread, in that video I don’t like how he measured tone ring depth off of the wobbly bearing/backing plate, measure from a fixed location ie; the end of the axle instead. A yard stick works quite well for this. And the pipe slide hammer is a great idea; we had to rig something up in the press to set the tone ring properly.

 

I was uncomfortable with that measurement too. I didn't think about going from the end of the shaft, that's smart. I was just going to measure from the bearing case it's self but I like that. I'm not 100% on how ill put on the ABS wheel but I was leaning towards that pipe method lol

 

You got the vevor press tool or whatever right?
That is good for most of the process but yeah pipe to set the abs and retainer ring

 

I have this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204450589234?siteid=0

 

Looks like yall got it covered, but why do you need to remove the backing plate? Rust I'm guessing? Just hammer out the 4 studs and the backing plate should come off. I think with the retainers and tone ring off it should slide up the axle.

 

@bmf4069 yeah it's rusted out. Once the bolts come out, the backing plate definitely "should" break away from the bearing case. Just looking for some wisdom if anyone has done it. Hopefully it does just pop off

 

The critical measurement is in this pic. If that retainer ring and ABS tone ring are off, the seal will not be positioned properly on the retainer ring.


On mine, it was 5mm from where the smooth machining starts, to the edge of the retainer ring. My advice is to measure yours before you disassemble it, then you know for sure how to put it back together.

I have a similar tool as the one you linked to on eBay. It works really well.

 

@tvpierce thanks for the insight! It's the trickiest part.

 

All the parts I'll need for a full rebuild of the rear end minus doing the dif (awt adjusters).

Ordered all OEM Axle Shaft parts from https://partsouq.com/

2 ea Outer Axle Shaft Seals 9031354001 $7.50 ea

2 ea Axle Shaft Bearings 9036340068 $47.41 ea

2 ea Axle Shaft Shaft Seal 9031050006 $5.50 ea

2 ea Bearing Retainer O-Ring 9030188077 $2.46 ea

4 ea Inner Axle Bearing Retainer 4242320010 $10.79 ea

2 ea Axle Shaft Snap Ring 9052036045 $ 1.04 ea

2 ea ABS Wheel (Skid Control Rotor) 4351735010 $29.81

8 ea Hub Bearing Case Bolt 9094202052 $0.82 ea

8 ea Hub Bearing Case Nut (Backing Plate Nut)
9017910067 $1.87 ea

Shoes and Backing Plats order from online Stealership

1 ea Left Backing Plate 47044-35180 $126.44

1 ea Right Backing Plate 47043-35190 $126.44

1 ea Brake Shoe Kit (all four shoes) 04495-35250 $94.60

Brake Hardware, Drums, Wheel Cylinders and Bellcranks from RockAuto

2 ea Dorman Parking Brake Cables 926048 $10.32 ea

2 ea Durago Brake Drums BD3509001 $53.79 ea

1 ea Centric Drum Brake Hardware Kit 11844008 $9.99

1 ea Dorman Parking Brake Bell Crank Kit 924752 $37.89

2 ea Advics Wheel Cylinders WCT068 $24.79 ea

1 ea Left Adjuster Kit FH12580 $6.31

1 ea Right Adjust Kit FH12581 $6.31

 

That's quite a list.

I've never ordered from PartSouq, so I poked around at the link you provided. I notice in the About section they never actually say they're selling Genuine OEM parts. (they say "genuine parts", which one could argue any part is genuine as long as it actually exists). I don't know if that's intentional legalese to get around the law, or if it's just the odd Arab-to-English translation. Probably the latter... but I'm just a cynic because I've seen so many fakes. I'd be interested to get your feedback on your order. Does everything seem legit? How long did it take to get the order?

 

When I have the time to wait I order from https://www.amayama.com/en . Their prices a generally half of the usual online Toyota sites and even with the shipping from Japan included it's a much better deal. Takes ~ 3 weeks however...

 

I used them just for their IPB at first. They have all the part numbers and most of the time they'll have a OEM Toyota part avaliable to buy. If not, another another brand will show up (see pic). I looked around the internet for ppls experience dealing with them and didn't find anything bad so I went with it. I placed the order on the 1st of March, no tracking number for 4 days. I emailed and asked what was up. They replyed a couple hours later saying they're waiting on the hub bolts. Later that day it shipped and I got the tracking number. Arrived on the 8th in a well packaged box. Each part had the OEM packaging and wasnt damaged. The only items that weren't Toyota OEM I bought from them were the nuts and bolts. They provided a suitable sup which I used. I'd recommend using them. No complaints.

 

@w666 that is a deal! I paid $47 for the bearing but on there it's $19

 

Nice!

Thanks for the info.

 

Beware of warped drums right out of the package. Common these days. Either throw them on and hope for the best or take them somewhere like O'Reilly and have them turned before you install.

If your original drums aren't in bad shape I would strongly consider running them again.

 

@NickB_01TRD if I took them to O'Reilly's would the be able to tell me whether or not they're warped without them taking anything off the drum? If it needs to be turned to fix it, would taking off the coating with the turn make the drum's life span shorter? If they can tell its bad just from inspecting it and taking the coating off to fix it, I'd probably return it and get my money back.

 

I've personally never had a drum turned so I'm not sure that they could tell without trying to run it on the machine.
I have bought a set of drums for another tundra that were warped out of the box and I know a few others here have as well, that's why I figured I'd warn you of it. I think this is why many try to order the OEM drums and they are usually better.

 

I truly had the OEM ones in my cart but $132 for each one was too much for me. I tried to find the best one on RockAuto to hope it wouldn't be warped. I was going to send it but I'll stop by O'Reilly's and ask a few questions. I didn't know they do it there. Thanks for the insight

 

I think they all do it but I'm not certain. May be worth a phone call to make sure they do it first.

 

Advics is who makes the OEM front pads and discs, sold at much lower $$. I wonder if the rear drums are the same?