AuxBeam 8 Gang Switch Panel

So the ing is 10 amp. Read that it a small style fuse, is a " low profile mini " if that's true will i coming into any issues using a add a fuse connection.??

 

Problem solved bought both mini an low profile mini .

 

Ok hopefully battery was just low when I got home. So shop added my fuze block an he said he put add a fuse on ing . No lights ect added yet. Went to start truck next day.. battery dead. Took truck or a long ride an going to let it parked for a couple days. Fingers crossed. However if dead battery again, where should I start looking? Other than the ing connection..?

 

Take some photos, I want to see if there is a phantom drain somewhere. That’ll only be the result of your dead battery after the install.

 

Here u go.

 

im gonna just leave this here.

 

That add-a-fuse doesn’t look to be on IGN.

 

gonna need to see how you did that, that looks great!

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/3d-printed-aux-beam-switch-panel-to-oem-roof-panel-mount.99802/

 

My problem solved. Battery must of been drained during installation. Started right up today yahoooooo

 

Ok So 2- 30,20,10 & 5's
Fuses... i need 3 10's. May i use a 20 amp one or put a 10 amp fuze in place of one of the 5's.

 

you can always put a smaller fuse in one of the larger fused locations, but don't put a bigger fuse in one of the smaller fuse locations

from my understanding of the auxbeam panel, all the spots are only rated to a certain amperage, meaning the 5 amp fuse section can only take 5 amps (even if you put in a 10 amp fuse)... so if you were to exchange one of the fuses for a 10 amp, it would need to be one of the 20s or 30s

 

I was thinking of this exact scenario. mine (spod) is always on and has bluetooth so you can turn lights on without having truck on. the system is always on and the backlights can be turned off. it has a low voltage mode default so it is supposed to shut down when the battery gets down to 11.7 I think. We will see if this can be trusted or not. i dont know anythinkg about electronics i picked spod because the switches looked close to coming from the factory.

 

yeah spod is good, maybe even the best for aftermarket switch panels

 

Ok so i know nothing. So if I tap a 15amp fuze outlet on my gang of 8 for my 9.5 amp light will I be safe/ not burn it up,??,

 

You can just replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 10 amp, the point is to not take a lower amp fuse and turn it into a higher amp fuse (talking about the factory placement of fuses from auxbeam)

 

I know nothing about electronics....would there be any benefit to using a smaller fuse?

 

Yes, so if I have a lightbar that only pulls 5 amps and I put in a 30 amp fuse and then I get a power surge (ground issue, sparking, wires touching etc etc) that 30 amp fuse might not break and protect the lightbar, then you would have some 30 odd amps that the lightbar might not be made to handle surging towards in and frying your lightbar

but if you put your correct 5 amp fuse in for the lightbar and you get a short circuit and it surges, it’ll pop the fuse and protect your electronic device

(lemme know if you need more explanation)

 

Besides ing for connecting g of 8 whats the best fuze outlet inside cab to hook into? Yes I know I won't get that fuze box cover back on but thats ok.

 

Hmmm, I actually tapped into one fuse in my engine bay fuse box, I can tell you which one tomorrow…

some interior fuses you could use would be (I believe off of memory) cigarette, pwr outlet & cargo lamp

just test with a multimeter which ones come in with key on and ignition vs which ones stay on with the truck off

 

When you piggyback fuse tapped the AAC/IGN tap in the relay box. Did you just use the same amp fuse in the second slot of the piggyback wire?
For instance I’m using the Nilight 6 switch panel setup, it’s saying I need to tap into ACC/IGN fuse. It’s a 10 amp fuse for me, do I just put another 10 amp in the second slot?

 

Correct, I’d actually put maybe a 5, I believe that’s what I have on mine… make sure you install the fuse tap the correct way (see photo attached)

 

That correct? Sorry for the awkward posting, new to the forums

 

Do you have a side pic of the controller mounted in your cabin? I just ordered an auxbeam and have been thinking about that same spot for mounting the control panel

 

I put mine on left side of steering wheel on dash panel

 

Hey, sorry to resurrect this thread. But I have a similar question.

got a 780 watt light bar from Nilight not realizing that it is at least a 65amp draw (newbie to electrical). I also have the Nilight 8 gang solid state switch panel that has a built in breaker of 80amps.

The light bar came with its own wiring harness but has a cheapo rocker switch that doesn’t come close to the OEM or preferred look. The wiring harness has an inline 25amp fuse, a relay, black and red leads for the battery, and said rocker switch.

I don’t think I should cut off everything downstream save the wire leads from the light bar (smaller light pods are just direct wired into the nilight controller as that acts as the relay and power source).

Due to the draw on this light bar can I direct connect to the battery and then instead of running the cheap rocker switch into the cab just cut the rocker switch and wire that into the nilight?

The rocker switch has a red, white, and black wires and the nilight controller only has a red and black?

Thanks in advance.

 

yes you can, however, if the lightbar wiring harness has a 25 amp fuse in it from nilight then the bar isn't actually pulling 65 amps/780 watts because it would blow that fuse every time you turn it on. If your nilight switch panel has maybe a 30 amp or 25 amp fused switch, you could ignore the entire nilight harness for the bar and hook it up to that switch. (just make sure whatever gauge wire you use is thick enough for the amperage)

Alternatively if you wanted to keep the harness I believe you could just connect the red and black from the nilight harness to the red and black for a switch. I believe the white is another power to illuminate the switch when toggled, but I could be wrong, been a while since I messed with 3 prong rocker switches. Normally the ground on that switch is a gold colored pin; through trial and error you'll be able to get it hooked up, worst case is you'll pop a couple fuses

 

Yes. You’re right. It doesn’t make sense to me that the product is listed as 780 watts but then only has an inline 25 amp fuse. I’ll try it and see what way works best.