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Auto-Open Tailgate Mod / Build

Discussion in '3rd Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by ncorry, Apr 12, 2019.

  1. Apr 4, 2020 at 12:03 PM
    #31
    danz75

    danz75 New Member

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    It appears that I do not have a constant 12v source in the front passenger door sill wire bundle. Tested all the 18ga wires. Does anyone know if there's a constant 12v source at the passenger foot area?
     
  2. May 16, 2020 at 5:41 AM
    #32
    Chando

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    Hey everyone, new to the forums. Anyway I could get the pdf emailed to me? Tried to download but it’s not working. Dave.chando@gmail.com
     
  3. Jul 8, 2020 at 6:37 PM
    #33
    Mtrider888

    Mtrider888 New Member

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    I also tried to DL it, and the link is broken... can someone email it to me.. thanks in advance... johnarnoldote@gmail.com
     
  4. Jul 8, 2020 at 6:50 PM
    #34
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    I would also love to have this if someone would would please pass it along, or repost a working download.

    Thank you!
     
  5. Jul 8, 2020 at 7:28 PM
    #35
    Bakershack

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    The download worked fine for me tonight. But just in case, I am attaching it to this post as well.

    I will do this mod at the same time I do the lock/unlock mod.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Oct 8, 2020 at 11:37 AM
    #36
    fbingha

    fbingha New Member

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    To those that have done this, the instructions say about the popper(s), "if you are running a open tailgate you should not have to add this"

    If you have no topper, did you find you needed to add the popper to push the tailgate out? My sense, is that you would still need the popper as the tailgate will just sit there unlocked without some force pushing it to fall down.
     
  7. Oct 11, 2020 at 4:06 PM
    #37
    fbingha

    fbingha New Member

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    Update:

    I did the install.

    I did not need the poppers, the tailgate falls open on its own on level ground.

    As for the wiring, I did this at the same time I installed the Pop and Lock, the newer version PL8547HD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F2XJYV3

    I used these actuators to unlatch the tailgate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZBQCR2

    $10??? Crazy

    IMG_6165.jpg

    IMG_6166.jpg

    Connect the BLUE wires from both actuators together and the GREEN wires together. Run the wires up to the passenger kick panel. Wire the BLUE wire to the unlock pulse and the GREEN wire to ground. The BLUE wire, which is connected to my red wire, runs up to the passenger kick panel. There the wire runs into the Bosch Relay, as detailed in the PDF. The RED wire in the lower blue harness is the wire that you run to the GREEN wire coming from the TR7/

    IMG_6167.jpg

    IMG_6168.jpg

    IMG_6169.jpg
     
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  8. Oct 11, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #38
    fbingha

    fbingha New Member

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  9. Oct 11, 2020 at 4:17 PM
    #39
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Awesome! Thanks!

    Do you have the actuator wires going through the same tailgate grommets? Pics?
     
  10. Oct 11, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #40
    fbingha

    fbingha New Member

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    Yes, the new pop and lock comes with grommets that have two holes, one for the Pop and Lock wire and one for the tailgate harness. I used 18g wire and I forced the actuator wire in there but it's a very tight squeeze.
     
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  11. Dec 13, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #41
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Want to do the Pop & lock and this auto open tailgate mod at same time

    cant get the PDF download to work - can someone PLEASE pm me one

    can I use these 3- actuators out of this 4 pack -1- for lock and 2- to open gate ??

    1DD41847-1D27-4A72-B26D-5C94746FFBCF.jpg


    @Pudge did you ever get this done ?
     
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  12. Jan 27, 2021 at 11:00 AM
    #42
    hung83

    hung83 New Member

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    The PDF stated the blue 16gauge is the constant 12v power source. Is it the same color wire 2020 tundra?
     
  13. Feb 4, 2021 at 7:42 PM
    #43
    marcelo73

    marcelo73 New Member

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    Great mod, i've had my pop & lock kit sitting in my garage for years. Going to give this a go....
     
  14. Feb 9, 2021 at 3:54 PM
    #44
    marcelo73

    marcelo73 New Member

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    Hey bro, did you ever find out whether these would work. I just emailed as I had the same question.
     
  15. Feb 11, 2021 at 5:45 PM
    #45
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Have all parts but have not installed yet

    Apparently you need this one for the lock itself 031C8480-8C1B-4C5E-827E-AF1BD6F32168.jpg
    But can use the other ones I picked for the rods which is what I plan to do

    good luck
     
  16. Feb 27, 2021 at 5:30 PM
    #46
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Hey, for anyone who has installed the auto open feature with the fob, where did you find a 12V source that is hot when the truck is off? I can find one that's hot when the truck is running, but I need the relay and the timer powered when the truck is off.
     
  17. Feb 28, 2021 at 6:38 AM
    #47
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Hey Kelly

    I still have not got around to doing this mod - my plan is to get it done within the next couple weekends

    You helped me out with the PDF- for this wish I could help you now !

    Are you saying the large blue wire in photos of PDF is not constant hot ??

    let me know what u come up with

    good luck getting it done


    055CA3D5-3E39-4262-80F2-C4CE0B815CF7.jpg
     
  18. Feb 28, 2021 at 10:44 AM
    #48
    danz75

    danz75 New Member

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    For my 18 SR5, I was not able to find a constant 12VDC source on the passenger side so i ran the power back to the fuse panel by the driver foot area.
     
  19. Feb 28, 2021 at 11:02 AM
    #49
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Great - THX BUD !
     
  20. Feb 28, 2021 at 12:41 PM
    #50
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    I wish it did. I checked it out as well as a few others and found none of them to be hot unless I cranked the truck.
     
  21. Feb 28, 2021 at 12:43 PM
    #51
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Yeah, I was hoping to avoid this but I may just have to bite that bullet. I have a fuse block that I bought but haven't installed it yet. I guess I'll be doing that as well, to provide a fused 12V source.

    UNLESS someone comes up with a constant hot 12V source!
     
  22. Apr 11, 2021 at 8:55 AM
    #52
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Spent 10 hrs yesterday installing pop-a-lock and auto-open tailgate mods in my 18’ DC

    Programmed TR-7 as directed- had TR-7 & bosh style relay along with one actuator wired to battery on bench and made sure everything worked before installing in tundra-minus of course the key-fob in circuit

    Starting at passenger kick panel Took my time running 1/2” wire loom thru floor plug with 4- wires in it and zip tied to main harness down frame and made up disconnects so I could remove tailgate if needed - if I thought more ahead I would have purchased a 4- prong plugfor one single connector- but this is what I had on hand and will work
    [​IMG]

    Ended up running actuator “push-rods” under gate braces for less restrictedmovement .
    [​IMG]

    Took another members suggestion and used metal bracket installed onto lockactuator sandwiched between factory arms on lock section
    [​IMG]
    Used a smaller 1/4” loom to run wires from gate to under truck -drilling 5/16” hole in each camera loom pass-thru and taped everything up tight
    [​IMG]
    Could not get factory wire brackets closed with both looms in-it so I used a zip tie to keep it closed and secure
    [​IMG]

    Now comes to the DEFLATION/ ISSUES !!
    Cab wiring- went all wrong -
    suggested you-tube video
    Red/ gray - white / silver -were backwards in my truck - just switched wire connectors to lock actuator inside gate to fix issue

    Could not find a constant HOT - line in kick panel as others have stated on their 18’ - Ran 12-gauge thru firewall andaround to battery- not really what I wanted but it works

    2BEE0FBA-AEF1-4100-8AD6-BC1BE8E66F13.jpg


    Got the TR-7/ relay and in-line 15amp fuse all wired up in kick panel and proceeded to test with key-fob- this is when I found out the lock and unlock wires were reversed- lock actuator was backwards and gate handle actuatorswere not working with
    “Unlock “ button but was working with 3- push- lock button- ARRRRRR !!!
    Switched TR-7 “green/trigger”wire to correct unlock wire - got ready to crack open my celebratory much needed BEER and was DEFLATED when now the latch actuators are doing
    nothing !! Started to check / test wiringwith test light and found no power pulse from incoming or outgoing side of relay- somehow I shorted out relay?? Or it is just bad out of box- don’t know - I bought 4- pack so have more to try/switch out - but at that point it’s 10:30pm and I was DONE !!

    Hoping new relay is the fix but with my luck I’m not optimistic

    SORRY. For the LONG rant - just VENTING !!

    Thought maybe my photos and issues might help someone else
    Lord knows I NEED IT !!
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2021
  23. Apr 11, 2021 at 7:03 PM
    #53
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Yeah, I got my Pop A Lock installed several weeks ago and it works great. But I couldn't find a hot either and ran out of time. I haven't had a chance to work on it again since, so my programmed TR7 and relay are all wired up, except for the hots, and stuffed in my panel. One day soon I hope to get back to it - AND to some other Christmas presents I haven't had a chance to install either!
     
  24. Apr 25, 2021 at 1:09 PM
    #54
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Update

    Got it working !!
    Funny thing is I switched wires around and then switched them back - It seems to take 4-5 clicks of key fob for some reason but I don’t care it WORKS-
    Not technology advanced enough to figure out how to upload video here??
    I can post photos but can’t post video
    IDK ???
     
  25. Apr 25, 2021 at 2:01 PM
    #55
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    So did you run a constant hot wire from the battery? I'm very curious as to exactly how you wired it up.
     
  26. Apr 25, 2021 at 3:50 PM
    #56
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Yes sir - never found constant hot in passenger kick panel - wired TR-7 and relay/ in-line fuse in kick panel then went thru the firewall grommet with a #12 wire following the brake lines around to the battery and installed a terminal connector on the battery lug

    BE996D24-1953-4D83-835D-0076E587969C.jpg
     
  27. Apr 25, 2021 at 7:52 PM
    #57
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Did you fuse it anywhere to protect the relay and actuators?
     
  28. Apr 26, 2021 at 3:36 PM
    #58
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Yes - installed a 15a in-line fuse between battery and relay/TR-7
     
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