1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

At's - Flush or Drain & Fill

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by rons23, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. Mar 1, 2015 at 6:36 PM
    #1
    rons23

    rons23 [OP] Next Round is on me! Live OBX

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2014
    Member:
    #625
    Messages:
    2,192
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ron
    Kill Devil Hills
    Vehicle:
    2008 Nautical Blue TRD
    Sabm (Gtek-Fab), Blake Carbon Diamond Plate door sil protecters, and Air Dam mod, Black Rivited Grill, Devil Horns- Black Anodized(Diaz Fabrication), Hid's in Low Beams and Fogs -6000k, Piaa Extreme for High Beams. Black Rhino Step Tubes, Razir Led interior Lights (white), Low Profile Black Diamond Plate Tool Box, Trd accesories, Weather Tech Mats, Carbon Fiber Shorty Antenna, Drl's, Plasta Dipped Badges + Front Grill Surround
    I just read a long thread on changing your at fluid. Most of what I read was our newer Tundra's have a sealed unit, therefore you should just drain and fill vs flush. It was said majority of metal shavings etc are at the bottom and will be removed at service, that is if the mechanic cleans the screen, pan, and magnets. Would like you guy's thoughts on this matter. I do understand that if we tow a lot service intervals will be sooner. Thanks
     
  2. Mar 2, 2015 at 12:46 PM
    #2
    Sean266

    Sean266 #ThinBlueLine Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2014
    Member:
    #6
    Messages:
    10,851
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    I won't ever mess with my trans. It's too important for me to make an error on, and prefer the experts to do it.
     
    rons23 likes this.
  3. Mar 2, 2015 at 1:13 PM
    #3
    Mike

    Mike Tread lightly.

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2014
    Member:
    #87
    Messages:
    2,560
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    south carolina
    Vehicle:
    2003 tundra sr5 4x4 stepside....
    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Sealed transmissions,

    Unless you have the tools (pumps) to flush out the transmission leave it to the dealer to do... When they do it i would ask them if you can get the shavings from the pan.. Take them home and clean the shavings.. your going to do what you say? yes clean them and look for hot blue markers or black marks on the shavings if you get one or two its ok if you have many for example transmission is having problems... Also get a sample of fluid. It should still be red color and SMELL IT... Does it smell burned? If it smells burned clutch packs in the transmission are going bye bye from too much HEAT...
     
  4. Mar 3, 2015 at 12:34 PM
    #4
    rons23

    rons23 [OP] Next Round is on me! Live OBX

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2014
    Member:
    #625
    Messages:
    2,192
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ron
    Kill Devil Hills
    Vehicle:
    2008 Nautical Blue TRD
    Sabm (Gtek-Fab), Blake Carbon Diamond Plate door sil protecters, and Air Dam mod, Black Rivited Grill, Devil Horns- Black Anodized(Diaz Fabrication), Hid's in Low Beams and Fogs -6000k, Piaa Extreme for High Beams. Black Rhino Step Tubes, Razir Led interior Lights (white), Low Profile Black Diamond Plate Tool Box, Trd accesories, Weather Tech Mats, Carbon Fiber Shorty Antenna, Drl's, Plasta Dipped Badges + Front Grill Surround
    Yeah I'm not touching nothing. Just wanted to know if it's worthwhile to get it flushed, and should I not worry about it and just take it to dealership and get it drained and filled. Thanks for the insight
     
  5. Mar 3, 2015 at 10:16 PM
    #5
    corc305

    corc305 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
    Member:
    #941
    Messages:
    36
    First Name:
    Corey
    Vehicle:
    2015 Black Tundra 4x4 TRD CM
    Earl's Rear Seat Storage / Dex's Stock Air Box Mod - Tundrageeks
    I haven't thought of this yet on the new Tundra but on my 03 I drained & filled regularly. I saved on labor and materials and knew what I was putting my truck. I could see first hand the condition of the fluid and the pan. I increased the frequency to ensure I also always had good fluid in the system.

    If you get to reading about flushes there are horror stories of flushes gone wrong. Some suspect they loosen material and the pressure used to extract the fluid, if not done correctly, can be bad on the system. I don't want to be one of these horror stories on the forums where the mechanic didn't put the right amount of fluid in. I subscribed to the idea that no one cares more about your ride than you do, and I think these guys are under pressure to get the work done and move on to the next one.

    Having said all of that I haven't looked at the process for 15 but if I can drain and fill that'll be the plan. On the 03 if you can change your oil and use a torque wrench you can service your trans.
     
  6. Mar 4, 2015 at 8:31 AM
    #6
    rons23

    rons23 [OP] Next Round is on me! Live OBX

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2014
    Member:
    #625
    Messages:
    2,192
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ron
    Kill Devil Hills
    Vehicle:
    2008 Nautical Blue TRD
    Sabm (Gtek-Fab), Blake Carbon Diamond Plate door sil protecters, and Air Dam mod, Black Rivited Grill, Devil Horns- Black Anodized(Diaz Fabrication), Hid's in Low Beams and Fogs -6000k, Piaa Extreme for High Beams. Black Rhino Step Tubes, Razir Led interior Lights (white), Low Profile Black Diamond Plate Tool Box, Trd accesories, Weather Tech Mats, Carbon Fiber Shorty Antenna, Drl's, Plasta Dipped Badges + Front Grill Surround
    Yeah I have read horror stories too. I'm not gonna go that route, just gonna drain and fill. Thanks for that insight bro
     
  7. Mar 4, 2015 at 6:00 PM
    #7
    Mike

    Mike Tread lightly.

    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2014
    Member:
    #87
    Messages:
    2,560
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    south carolina
    Vehicle:
    2003 tundra sr5 4x4 stepside....
    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Thats the fun thing about 1st gens tundras made it easy to work on...
     
  8. Mar 4, 2015 at 6:16 PM
    #8
    csuviper

    csuviper Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    Member:
    #38
    Messages:
    8,823
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2012 Rock Warrior 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Yea sealed trans makes me a little weary about doing it myself. Sean and I know a Toyota tech on TW and plan to take mine to him for this service.
     
  9. May 8, 2015 at 11:52 AM
    #9
    Dave333

    Dave333 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2015
    Member:
    #1225
    Messages:
    41
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dave
    Vehicle:
    2015 Platinum CrewMax
    Alright I got the manual and this transmission is set up like my Tacoma's. So it's a little bit of a pain to do but you can do it yourself. Basically these are "sealed" meaning there is no dipstick tube to check but that doesn't mean that they are forever transmissions. So what you do is you have a drain plug at the pan. You drain it. Manual says 2.2 quarts to refill if you remove the pan, which is the only way to get to the screen and magnets. So drop the pan, clean it, use Toyota FPIG (which is awesome) and torque the pan back on following the manuals torque pattern and specs. Then fill 2.2 quarts into the WS fill hole, driver side. Then you have to jumper the OBD II at #4 and 13#. When you do this, you move the shifter from D to N back and forth for 6 seconds, and then you will see the D come on and go off on the screen. As the fluid warms to check level, the D will come back and remain solid. So now you have to crawl back under the truck, remove the overflow check plug on the passenger side and if any comes out you let it flow until it's a trickle, all while the engine is running. If none comes out you need to add. You have to do this before the fluid gets out of range check, the D will start flashing at which point it's too hot to check and you have to let it cool to continue.

    Torque specs for the WS plug is 29 ft/lbs and for the overflow and drain plugs they are 15 ft/lbs. All will need new washers as well.

    I just got the manual for the Tundra. I figured it was like the Tacoma but wanted to be sure. I've done it on my Tacoma twice. Never had any issues or any fluid leaks. I can put up the Tundra's manual's pages for this if you guys want. Here are some pictures of the plugs. Now on my Tacoma I do this every 30k miles. It's a pain, but way better than replacing a transmission.

    I leave to go out of country on Monday so I'll do this pan drop when I get back and will post up pics.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    matluth likes this.
To Top