Ask the Toyota mechanic!

It us very unlikely you have an ABS actuator issue. Most low brake pedal problems are almost always an issue with the brake hardware or the master cylinder. Are the front brake pins that hold the pads in the caliper free? Do the front pads move easily in the calipers? Are their rear caliper pins siezed and are the pads free? A trick is to pinch off all four flex hoses at each caliper. If you don't have the tool you can use four needle nose vise grips and push on 3/8 fuel line over the jaws. The fuel line will prevent damage to the flex lines. Pinch off the flex lines and see if the pedal is normal. If the pedal is normal then remove one vise grip at a time do see where the issue is. If the pedal still feels low when all the vise grips are applied then do a master cylinder test. With the pedal brake at the top very slowly apply pedal pressure with your foot and make note of where the pedal stops. Let the pedal up then quickly slam your foot down and see where the pedal stops. Do this a nimber of times. If the pedal is back to normal after slamming the pedal, replace the master cylinder.

To be honest almost all low brake pedal complaints are from seized caliper components.

 

I replaced every caliper with a brand new one so I would expect everything to work perfectly then it comes to them. Great suggestion on pinching off the lines - is that possible if I have SS lines now? Wasn't sure if those compress like the rubber ones...if not any ideas for how to do this with SS lines?

Regarding the master cylinder test, is this with the car off or running?

 

The flex line pinch off is for stock rubber hoses. I can't recommend doing this on stainless hoses. The master cylinder check is with the engine not running. Pump the brake a few times before you start to eliminate the vacuum booster. If you have replaced all the calipers front and back with flex hoses it's very likely you still have air in the system which would also includes the master cylinder if you let it run dry.

 

Yeah I just went under my 2020 4x4 and there were no grease fittings on the u joints that i could find. Any mechanic able to confirm?

 

You are correct.

 

Thank you sir. That makes my DIY maintenance easier. So all the slip joint and other reference to 4wd prop shaft lubrication are out dated in the manual?

 

I believe the slip joints still have a grease fitting but the U joints definitely not. Toyota started removing the rear greaseable U joints first then followed with the front.

 

I have a 2002 Toyota Tundra V8 4WD. Recently started experiencing 2 issues:

1) brakes on the right side of the truck squeal specifically when I reverse. Occasionally the brakes squeal when I’m inching forward on a downhill driveway (e.g. getting ready to turn out of a grocery parking lot driveway). I believe the sound is coming from my right front brakes. Ever since the issue started, I checked the brake pads myself and also had an auto shop check. There is plenty of brake pad remaining on front brakes and rear drums seem to be in good shape. Auto shop has not been helpful in at least diagnosing the issue, and I’m having trouble diagnosing on my own

2) truck shudders when I brake from higher speeds to lower speeds (e.g. going 45 and then slowing to 15 miles per hour for a red light at an intersection). There is no squealing when this happens, just shuddering

I replaced brakes about 10,000 miles ago, including new calipers and rotors. When I replaced them I used a larger caliper, 13WL casting instead of SL3WE. Also had to snip 1/4" from the backplate to be able to fit the larger caliper on. I did this to hopefully address the shuddering (squealing was not happening at the time). A lot of online research confirmed other 1st gen tundra owners have found success with this. However it did not solve either issue for me. Any insight on this situation?

 

I’ve yet to find any grease fitting/zerk under my truck anywhere.

 

Hello Knowledgeable people.

Question about slow transition engagement after the truck has sat unused for over a week.

When the truck sits unused for a week or more, the transmission is slow to engage. It can take 5 or more seconds for it to start to engage and another few seconds before the truck starts to slowly move. It’s so slow I’ve taken to feathering the gas pedal to encourage faster engagement.

If driving the truck daily, it will engage quickly, like any other vehicle.

The dealership checked the fluid level and they say it’s properly filled. They recommended I leave the truck with them for over a week unused, so they can experience the slow engagement.

I posted this question in the general forms but got few replies. One guy said he is experiencing the same, and his fluid levels are fine.

Is this normal and healthy? A cause for concern? I’ve never experienced this.

2021 with 8,000 miles on the clock.

 

Whaaaa???

Definitely not normal. Sounds like time for a warranty claim.

 

My truck sat for 8-9 days a few weeks ago and ran just fine when I started it up. It does seem to have a slight hesitation shifting out of park when cold, but I'm talking about a half-second difference. Just long enough to feel "not normal" and then everything works. I'd have concerns if it took more than a few seconds, let alone five+.

Definitely sounds like a dealer issue to resolve. I'm not a mechanic, but in my lizard brain if the transmission fluid was shot then you'd have issues all the time. I have no clue how the transmission works, but if it is hesitant after a long sit then something is either sticking (actuator?) or some system needs hydraulic pressure that has to build back up...so a valve is leaking when the system sits.

Hopefully @Ruggybuggy can offer his mechanic advice and educate us. Now I'm curious AF...

 

Thank you both for the replies.

Yes, fluid draining away from the converter was my thought.

Guess I’ll drop it off.

 

Please report back what the dealership finds. Always helpful to future members to have closer on issues!

 

Roger that.
Will do.

 

Inside the valve body are check valves (steel and/or rubber balls) on the separator plate that are supposed to prevent the TC from draining into the pan. I have to wonder if it is missing in yours?

Thinking this through the front pump would have line pressure so no clutches are slipping, yet the input shaft is unable to turn as there is no hydraulic coupling until TC fills up. That said, it may not throw a code until some throttle is applied.

GL

Source used to build transmissions.

 

Vehicle 2010 DC 4.6 4x4. I've had it 7k miles. No issues and it drives fine.

While driving straight and steering wheel is straight, the Steering Angle Sensor reports -13.5°.

Is this an issue for ABS and/or VSC? I would think the speed sensors win the battle but in an emergency could this be an issue?

Is the steering shaft hard indexed to the rack or could someone have assembled the steering shaft a tooth off.

The tie rods show nearly equal threads exposed, so I think the rack is centered.

If it doesn't matter I guess I ignore it. I know the electric rack in my IS350 has a calibration routine through Techstream, does this apply here? Could the senor be told where zero is?

It seems like someone would have had to have the wheel off and the steering shaft apart for this to happen and based on its history, these both seem unlikely.

TIA

 

What was the ambient temperature when you had the delay? After the truck warms up and you have driven it a distance, do you still have the delay?

 

Thanks for chiming in.

I dropped it off yesterday.

I’ll share this with the dealership.

 

Thank you for asking.

Transmission will be slow to engage at any temperature. 41 to 90 degrees.

Slow engagement only happens the first time the truck is used after siting ten or more days.

It can take 4 to 5 seconds before the truck starts to move.

Transmission will engage like normal by the time I’ve backed out of the garage and driveway.

Transmission will engage like normal if the truck is driven at least once per week.

I’m happy to live with it. It doesn’t bug me. Just wanted to make sure it’s not damaging.

 

Well we can rule out temperature as a cause. Unlikely your damage anything as long as you patient and wait for the transmission to engage. Is it normal? No. You're under warranty and I would drop it off. I wouldn't want something that might be a problem now end up being your problem later after the warranty is up. There is no easy diag fix via forum. The recharge will have to hook up techstream, do a health check and monitor the transmission data as the problem is occurring. Good news is that Toyota will just replace the entire transmission if its a mechanical issue.

 

Wasn't me...it was @Lug Nut 's post above mine.

 

Oops! Copy and paste time.

 

Well we can rule out temperature as a cause. Unlikely your damage anything as long as you patient and wait for the transmission to engage. Is it normal? No. You're under warranty and I would drop it off. I wouldn't want something that might be a problem now end up being your problem later after the warranty is up. There is no easy diag fix via forum. The recharge will have to hook up techstream, do a health check and monitor the transmission data as the problem is occurring. Good news is that Toyota will just replace the entire transmission if its a mechanical issue.

 

I have a 2008 CrewMax and I’m in need of new suspension. Just found out I have a broken front spring. I would like to save a few bucks and pick up a factory takeoff suspension setup. Are all generation suspensions interchangeable?

 

Only the second gen, 2007-2021.

 

Thanks.

 

Replacement? Good to know.

Sounds like modern auto trannies are complicated.

Hoping the truck is still there ten days from now… ;-)

Will report back.

 

My 2015 transmission is a little slow to engage after the truck sits for a week or so. I've gotten used to it over the years with no transmission issues. I always chalked it up to be the amount of time it sat.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I’m leaning this direction.