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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Dec 18, 2020 at 8:40 PM
    #2041
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    If it's only the front and your trying to keep cost down go to the wreckers for some used calipers and ask for the brake hoses. Throw on some new pads and rotors pads and do the work yourself and it would only be around $400 to $500. The problem with buying new calipers from a parts store is that they will want the core back (old calipers). They expect the same calipers back not the BBK calipers so you will get charged the caliper core. For some reason Tundra caliper cores are worth a lot.

    On the plus side you could sell the bbk kit and get back most of your cash.
     
    FundraTRD likes this.
  2. Dec 18, 2020 at 10:23 PM
    #2042
    FundraTRD

    FundraTRD New Member

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    From my research any stock Tundra 20s will do. Per stoptech who manufactures these big brakes for Toyota. I might look into some platinum 20s or some older trd 20s but am in no huge hurry since technically it does fit. Tomorrow I’m gonna take that exact ramp again and try to replicate the noise I heard to see if it was metal on metal or rubber. Other than that I haven’t had any issues. Talked to my buddy and these brakes/rims have been on the truck 50,000+ miles he said
     
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  3. Dec 18, 2020 at 10:24 PM
    #2043
    FundraTRD

    FundraTRD New Member

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    Good to know. Thanks again
     
  4. Dec 18, 2020 at 10:30 PM
    #2044
    AzureNightmare

    AzureNightmare Geek in a Tundra

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    You should be able to get some 20" takeoffs pretty easily. Lots of people downsize the wheels to get more sidewall for a plusher ride or off road activities.
     
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  5. Dec 18, 2020 at 10:34 PM
    #2045
    FundraTRD

    FundraTRD New Member

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    You are awesome man, I really appreciate your responsiveness and feedback. I am lucky to have found this forum.

    now for something positive. Man my truck drives so nice after the transmission fluid change and requesting 0w-20 oil for the oil change. (Will do on my own going forward, no where to change oil at my current living) but man so smooth in every way and also the engine quieted down a lot. I forgot to ask the buddy what oil he was using. I’ve never owned one and I’ll never go back to driving a regular car unless I have to haha

    thank you as well mr ruggy
     
  6. Dec 18, 2020 at 10:57 PM
    #2046
    FundraTRD

    FundraTRD New Member

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    I think I just got lucky. Stock Tundra 20” with tires on Craigslist for $360 all 4. All good condition and tires good. I’ll pick this up and if it offers more clearance I’ll use these and sell the existing rims and should be able to recoup cost
     
  7. Dec 19, 2020 at 4:17 AM
    #2047
    Enzo57

    Enzo57 New Member

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    Sometimes aftermarket brake calipers have rough edges and scrape against the rim, providing it's very light. See where is scraping on your caliper and smooth it out with a floppy disk installed on your grinder.T hen use a marker/crayon and mark the calipers edges and go for a test, remove wheel if crayon /marker is all there you good to go if marker rubbed of remove a little bit more in that spot and you saved your money.
     
  8. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:20 AM
    #2048
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Do not follow this advice given. Do not modify calipers by grinding away material even if it's only a slight amount. If there is a failure all liability would fall upon you.
     
  9. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:26 AM
    #2049
    Enzo57

    Enzo57 New Member

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    Caliper is not being modified we talkin about cleaning up rough edges it has been done for many many years and when you're done if it's done nice and clean you will never notice a difference
     
  10. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:32 AM
    #2050
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    If your that close in clearance cleaning up the calipers isn't going to give you the clearance needed.
    In the unlikely event that the caliper did fail all liability would still fall on you.
    It's really quite simple. Don't modify or change any manufactured part even to the smallest degree.
     
    FundraTRD likes this.
  11. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:59 AM
    #2051
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    Shop just called and said there were no codes and they drove it for 13 miles without issue or codes re-appearing.

    Even though the last thing i did was take pic of the error code AFTER I cleared it, drove and the code came back.

    So we are going agtet the car and hopefully it "fixed itself".
     
  12. Dec 19, 2020 at 7:24 AM
    #2052
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Maybe they fixed it instead of admitting a mistake? :notsure:
     
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  13. Dec 19, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #2053
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    :monocle:
     
  14. Dec 19, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    #2054
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    Dumb question here: if code was present when i dropped off the car, would it remain after car sits overnight? Codes dont automatically clear by themselves do they?
     
  15. Dec 19, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    #2055
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    I think that there are some situations where the ECU will see something minor that is Pending and will only set a code (turn on the CEL) if it sees it a certain number of times within a certain period of time. I think that it's the same for the inverse; if the ECU sees some fault and sets the CEL, but then the issue doesn't continue or self-corrects (like the gas cap wasn't tight enough) the CEL will turn off (but the code could still be in memory). I could see this happening with the TPMS where the ECU looks at the values at whatever interval it's programmed to. At start up when cold, and then for drastic changes when driving, in the case of sudden air loss.
     
  16. Dec 19, 2020 at 9:51 AM
    #2056
    rothmigo

    rothmigo New Member

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    Toss the Jounce bumper and plate when installing air bags ? - ok I overthink things and trying not to overthink this. I'm installing air bags and instructions say to cut the rubber off the jounce bumper plate that is captured above the leaf springs by the u bolts so the air bag bracket can no sit there. Of course the airbags become the "jounce". I happen to be replacing the u-bolts whilst installing traction bars and as such doesn't it make sense just to toss the jounce bumpers and plates completely? In other words the jounce plate has no other purpose other than holding the rubber jounce on...or is there any benefit to cutting off the rubber jounce and keeping the plate there as it has some role in aligning the ubolts? THANKS! Pic attached.20201219_113627.jpg
     
  17. Dec 19, 2020 at 9:53 AM
    #2057
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    At shop, let car warm up, tpms comes on.
    Upon further review, we find the tpms reset button under steering wheel doesn't reset anything.

    Any thoughts on that and how it relates?

    They kept car and found that intermittently lowering tire pressure would be read by the tpms ecu? And another reading would not be picked up. All seems to follow series of 3 light flashes on dash during startup or the normal light on during startup then go off.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
  18. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:13 PM
    #2058
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Pull out your techstream and have a look at the data to see what sensor respond to the tire being deflated. Copy the ID number in techstream that doesn't respond. At the dealership they have a tpms code reader which works very well. Basically they place the code reader next to the valve stem on each wheel and it reads and stores the ID number and gives the battery health. When they have read all four wheels they plug it into the diagnostic connector and it upload the info to the tpms module. That is what the should have done.

    Here some information on the reset button.

    If the Tire Pressure Monitor System senses seriously low pressure in one of your tires, the low tire pressure icon will appear in the instrument display and you'll see a warning message in the Multi-Information Display.

    If the indicator light stays on, check all the tires and refill, repair or replace any that are below the proper pressure.

    Rotating tires, changing tire pressures, or switching tire sizes could trigger the warning.

    To reset the system, first make sure the tire pressures are correct.

    Turn the engine on, then press and hold the reset button. You'll find it low and to the right of the steering wheel on the instrument panel.

    Hold the button down until the TPMS indicator light in the instrument panel blinks slowly 3 three times.

    Wait for several minutes with the engine running, to allow the system to record each tire's pressure, then turn the engine off.

    If the light comes on and blinks when you start the car, something may not be working properly, and you should take it to a Toyota dealership to be inspected.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  19. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:16 PM
    #2059
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Not sure why they would want the bumper plate in there. The ones I have done you simply remove the bumper and the airbag sits on the spring directly.

    Give the airbag manufacture a call to clarify.
     
  20. Dec 19, 2020 at 5:30 PM
    #2060
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    The tech was able to see the same error code on his end, so that's a plus, I guess. The hokey part was when he was deflating and inflating the tires, the system randomly acknowledged the change or didn't acknowledge the change.

    They were not able to pin point what needed repaired or replaced. I don't want to start throwing parts at it either. The tech did think the sensor was ok.

    Looks like im heading up to my local dealership next week.
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2020
  21. Dec 19, 2020 at 6:55 PM
    #2061
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Sorry my mistake, I thought you were at the dealer. They will have the tool to read the sensors and it shows the tech the signal strength and battery life with ID numbers. It will show any issues with the sensors.

    I would try the deflate and inflate method with your techstream just to see for yourself.

    If you do go to the dealer have them recorded the sensor IDs and ask for them. Write them down in the back of the owners manual.
     
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  22. Dec 19, 2020 at 8:11 PM
    #2062
    WBW

    WBW Resident lurker

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    Now that is a great idea right there! I shall be doing that on my next visit to the dealer.

    Thank you @Ruggybuggy for all you do here!
     
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  23. Dec 19, 2020 at 10:11 PM
    #2063
    sh0ck3r1

    sh0ck3r1 New Member

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    2016 Tundra Platinum CM 4WD 66k miles.

    Subject: Shaking and feels like hesitant shifting

    First off, no DTCs or any check engine lights are on.

    Intermittent shaking felt in the seat, not usually the steering wheel but sometimes slight. The issue I’m having is it feels like some sort of resistance in the drivetrain when driving at any speed. The transmission is hesitant to shift up at times and the only way I’ve been able to temporarily remedy this is by making a right turn of some sort whether it be a right turn at a light or even a sweeping right turn as the road curves. Sometimes left turns can fix it and free up the resistance but right turns will almost always fix it until it comes back again within a few seconds or even a few minutes. It’s not a drastic dragging feeling but noticeable. My service advisor at the local Toyota drove it and confirmed he felt what I’m describing.

    I can also hit larger bumps in the road and will cause the same temporary fix. For example, I’ll be driving around 40MPH, holding gear and throttle consistent around 2-3k RPM, hit a bump in the road and it will immediately lower the RPMs, the truck will feel more free rolling and it will have a smoother ride until the resistance builds up again.

    I have also consistently noticed it acting up when when driving on the freeway. At about 70mph (flat road, even downhill) I can take my foot off the gas pedal, the truck will want to hold 6th gear and decelerate faster than normal, rather than “unlocking” and coasting easily.

    I’m assuming this has to do with the torque converter lockup and not matching the engine speed? Just a guess as I’m not expert on the workings of a TC.

    Sometimes it will be in 6th gear and you can feel/hear the sound change to a lower pitch, then the ride feels very smooth as truck will coast easily. I should also note that when the truck does not want to “release” whatever is built up, the rear end feels very stiff and bouncing.

    In warm weather it acts up more often than cold weather. There is either a whine (cold weather) or whistle (hot weather) from somewhere around the engine area.

    Two days ago I wanted to see if I could put some stress on it and see what happens... I was on a hill with a slight incline, at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor. Power and shifting felt normal but there was a consistent shaking during the 300 yard climb and for a short while after coasting down the other side. Shaking frequency didn’t seem to increase or decrease with RPM fluctuations or vehicle speed.

    Things I have done to the truck to try and fix this issue:

    -transmission fluid flush (Toyota)
    -transfer case, front and rear diff fluid changes (Toyota)
    -new carrier bearing and u-joints inspected (local driveline shop)
    -new wheels and tires (discount tire)
    -new rear shocks (myself)
    -alignments (Toyota)
    -tire balancing (4 times) (Toyota and Discount Tire)

    I have TechStream but don’t know how to use it as a diagnostic tool. I just use it to change custom settings not offered in the head unit.

    Sorry for the long read. Hopefully I can be pointed in the right direction. It has been 5k miles of this and it makes me not want to drive the truck.

    Oh yeah, it started at 61k miles. JUST PAST THE FACTORY WARRANTY! I have been livid about that!

    Thank you in advance!
     
  24. Dec 20, 2020 at 6:18 AM
    #2064
    rothmigo

    rothmigo New Member

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    Thanks! Well I ended up cutting off the rubber jounce and leaving the top plate in place. I was going to toss the top plate but it seemed like it gave a bit more meat for the u-bolts and spread the pressure of the bolts more evenly onto the leaf spring. I think I could've probably got rid of the whole thing but then I wouldn't have gotten to use my sawzall and enjoy the smell of burning rubber in the garage lol.
     
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  25. Dec 20, 2020 at 6:37 AM
    #2065
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Good that it worked for you. Don't forget to retorque your U bolts after a couple hundred miles (and wheels). Check and make sure the plate hasn't moved.
     
  26. Dec 20, 2020 at 6:49 AM
    #2066
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    Wow!

    Your warranty should still apply because your issues with the truck started while you were under warranty.

    Does you truck have a LSD rear diff?
     
  27. Dec 20, 2020 at 8:47 AM
    #2067
    sh0ck3r1

    sh0ck3r1 New Member

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    Not that I would be aware of. I bought it used as a lease turn in with 25,000 miles.
     
  28. Dec 20, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #2068
    sh0ck3r1

    sh0ck3r1 New Member

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    I did notice some oil seeping from the area in this photo...

    Drove it this morning and it felt fine for a while. Another observation I’ve noticed is when the truck drives smoothly, the steering wheel feels easier to turn. Not sure if that helps.

    I was thinking my next course of action could be replacing the front struts with some newer take-offs and inspect all of the front steering/suspension components in the process.

    28C2520A-F7BA-4840-9297-C5B417597914.jpg
     
  29. Dec 20, 2020 at 2:52 PM
    #2069
    Ruggybuggy

    Ruggybuggy New Member

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    That little amount is just some sweating. I wouldn't "sweat" it. Sorry I couldn't help myself.

    Changing the struts won't make any difference in the dragging feel.

    To be honest with you it seems you have a number of symptoms that don't really all seem to be connected. It's going to be very hard to do this repair on a forum. Be careful about randomly replacing parts. In the trade we call it "poke and hope". It can lead to alot of wasted money and time.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2020
  30. Dec 20, 2020 at 5:41 PM
    #2070
    Black

    Black Raised Hands Surround Us. 3 Nails To Protect Us

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    Is the OEM drivers side front coil spring longer than the passenger side?
     
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