Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Toyota fuel pumps are very reliable. Most issue that come up with the fuel pumps not working is a wiring issue between the pump module and pump. If seen a few pumps replaced needlessly. As far as the amount of fuel in the tank cooling the pump I think many are over thinking it. My feeling is that the Tundra just has a larger reserve than most.

 

I am going to clear erase and rescan and post again soon.

This scan was ran without the radiator, no power steering fluid and no brake fluid.
Probably a dumb question but will a working computer disable the car from running as a safety feature?



Report

12/07/2020 01:55 PM

General Information
VIN: 5TFRM5F15DX064122

Vehicle: 2013 TOYOTA TUNDRA

Engine: V8, 4.6L; DOHC; 32V

Mileage Reported: 45,000

Report#: 101

Date of Report: 12/07/2020 01:55 PM

Engine/Transmission Diagnostic Trouble Code Information
MIL DTC
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

Severity Level: Moderate

Quick Code Summary:
Code P0118 indicates that the Engine Coolant Temperature electrical circuit input signal had high voltage for a predetermined period of time.

This condition will prevent the vehicle from running at its optimum efficiency and fuel economy may suffer.

The engine coolant temperature input helps cold start and running and will inhibit operation when overheated.

Technical Service Bulletins:
There are currently no TSBs for P0118.

Stored Codes
P0013 "Camshaft Position ""B"" Actuator Circuit /Open (Bank1)"

P0023 "Camshaft Position ""B"" Actuator Circuit /Open (Bank 2)"

P0102 Mass Air Flow Circuit Low

P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor System Open/High

P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

P0121 Throttle Position Sensor Range Malfunction

P0123 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ""A"" Circuit High Input"

P1613 Secondary Air Injection System Driver

Pending Codes
P0013 "Camshaft Position ""B"" Actuator Circuit /Open (Bank1)"

P0023 "Camshaft Position ""B"" Actuator Circuit /Open (Bank 2)"

P0102 Mass Air Flow Circuit Low

P0113 Intake Air Temperature Sensor System Open/High

P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input

P0121 Throttle Position Sensor Range Malfunction

P0123 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ""A"" Circuit High Input"

P0419 "Secondary Air Injection System Relay ""B"" Circuit"

P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit

P1613 Secondary Air Injection System Driver

Freeze Frame Information
Parameter Description
Results
DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored

P0118

Fuel System 1 Status

Open Loop

Fuel System 2 Status

Open Loop

Calculated LOAD Value

0.00 %

Engine Coolant Temp

-40.00 °F

Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1

0.00 %

Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1

0.00 %

Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2

0.00 %

Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2

0.00 %

Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure

29.61 inHg

Engine RPM

0.00 rpm

Vehicle Speed Sensor

0.00 mph

Ignition Timing Advance #1 Cylinder

5.00 °

Intake Air Temperature

-40.00 °F

Air Flow Rate Mass Air Flow Sensor

0.25 lb/min

Absolute Throttle Position

100.00 %

Commanded Secondary Air Status

Atmosphere / Off

Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B1-S2)

0.00 V

Short Term Fuel Trim (B1-S2)

99.22 %

Oxygen Sensor Output Voltage (B2-S2)

0.00 V

Short Term Fuel Trim (B2-S2)

99.22 %

Time Since Engine Start

0 sec

Monitor Status
Monitor Name
Monitor Icon
Status
MIL (Check Engine Light)


ON

Misfire Monitoring


Complete

Fuel System Monitoring


Complete

Comprehensive Component Monitoring


Complete

Catalyst Monitoring


Not complete

Heated Catalyst Monitoring


Not Supported

Evaporative System Monitoring


Not complete

NMHC Monitoring


Not Supported

NOxAdsorber Monitoring


Not Supported

Secondary Air System Monitoring


Not complete

Oxygen Sensor Monitoring


Not complete

Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring


Not complete

EGR System Monitoring


Not complete

Boost Pressure System Monitoring


Not Supported

Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitoring


Not Supported

PM Filter Monitoring


Not Supported

Copyright © 2020 IEC. All Rights Reserved.(V1.0.0.0).

 

P0123 "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch ""A"" Circuit High Input"

Do I need to install the 4.6 gas pedal? I noticed its electronic.

I have this pedal and from what I remember it was easy to remove.

The chevy LS swap requires the Pedal to be installed with the engine.

 

Modules don't normally shut the engine down unless you have an immobilizer issue.

The P0123 circuit A sounds like a pedal issue. They have two circuits for safety, one goes high and the other goes low. Switch out the pedals. It's very easy to do, just undo two bolts and it falls out. Be careful not to bang it or drop it. They are sensitive and can be damaged.

Clear all your codes and just turn the key on but don't try to start. Read the codes that come up.

 

awesome the pedal I removed a few years ago has defintly been handled rough I am hoping it still works, im having a programmer stop by within the next few days.

Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.

 

NP and good luck.

 

I met a guy today who showed me some pictures of his friends 2019 voodoo blue pro. The engine caught fire! A couple days ago his friend was driving down the road. He said he heard a pop. Next thing he knew there where flames coming out of the wheel well. His insurance company is looking in to it. I won't be able to find out from him what happened. I don't know him. Has anybody ever heard of this before? My guess would be fluid caught fire.

 

The only fires I've heard of was some block heaters had a problem. Never heard of a engine issue fire in a Tundra or any Toyota product.

 

Ooo, I have a block heater. Do you recall what the problem was? Just as a precaution. Thanks.

 

Did you get a letter in the mail? A couple of years ago there was a fire in Calgary where a Toyota parked in an attach garage burnt the house down. I believe it was an install issue but Toyota started looking hard at the block heater. We even had a couple of Toyota guys come to our dealership and ask us about our installs. I remember one of the techs had not routed the cord exactly as per Toyota's instructions. Shortly after Toyota change the design of the heaters. The cords now are very thick and look like a heavy extension cord. The wattage on the heater was reduced and the routing in the engine bay changed.

If you take a picture of the block heater cord in the engine bay I can tell you if you have the old or new design.

 

Mine was a self-install vs. the dealer. I'll double-check my cord routing and try to get a picture of it. I did this probably 6 years ago, so I don't know where that falls in the timeline. I don't recall off the top of my head, but for some reason I want to say it was 400 watts...or maybe that's the one we put in our diesels...

 

400W sound right. Do you know the part number? The recall should still be in effect regardless if you installed it yourself. I dont think the Tundra ones were a problem but I would call the dealer with the part number to find. They did change the design of the heaters a couple of years ago for a reason.

 

I used to have the part number in my notes in case someone else was interested in ordering one. I deleted it some years later after reading that the part number was superseded by another and that others were told by dealers in the U.S. (that's where I am too) that they couldn't get one because the part was Canada only.

I was able to find my eBay email receipt, with that I was only able to glean the price that I paid ($50) and the selling dealership (Metro Toyota in Ohio). Here's an image of the item as presented currently in some eBay ads. It's the same image as in my email receipt:


Here's the picture that I took of the power cord of mine. It's a flat three conductor cord.


Mine differs from the advertised image in that the main run of the cord isn't covered in corrugated loom, but rather a smooth sheath more akin to larger diameter and heavier heat shrink tubing. It's routed behind the headlamp to the firewall, behind the brake booster then down. I may alter that slightly as the route down has it between the heat shield that's just below the hard A/C lines that go through the firewall and the driver side bank of engine cylinders. I'll probably tuck it behind the heat shield.

 

Just out of curiosity when would I need to replace the timing chain on a 2014 5.7L V8 Tundra?

 

There isn't a maintenance interval for the timing chain.

 

The heater in the picture is the old style that was used only on cars and SUV's. Both the old and new Tundra heaters had a door flap on the outside. Toyota give you an extension that fits into the door. The heater you have definitely looks like the old style heater and probably is under the recall. The new style heaters use a conduit covering but the wiring is also a lot heavier and uses a separate ground to the body of the vehicle.

 

What was already said. If your not having issues as in noise your fine. Maybe your thinking of a timing belt that was used on the 4.7 Tundra motor.

 

New guy here looking to beat a dead horse: what in your opinion is the limiting factor (component) or most critical combination of factors (components) that are to blame for the Tundra's payload capacity, or lack there of.
Disclaimer: for research purposes only, info not to be used to justify breaking the low and towing/carrying over weight limits.

 

Huh, maybe I'll reach out to some of the dealers in the more northerly climes to see if I can get a P/N. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a picture of one as well. Thanks for the information!

 

The rear suspension. The leaf spring are very weak for a full size truck. Brakes on the truck are very good with 4 piston caliper and big rotors. None of the domestics 1/2 tons are using 4 caliper pistons. I run a set of Sumospring in the rear and this summer had 2K of flooring in the truck and it rode level and load was hardly noticeable.

Also if you plan on towing over 6K with your 2021 on a regular basis consider a ambient cooler if you trans temps exceed 230F.

 

Can you tell us more about the Sumosprings? How do they affect the ride when not loaded?

 

Hello toyota mechanic
I have a problem I'm having problems fueling up
The gas tank is not allowing the gas to go down the hose,every 2,3 sec the pump stop like if it was full
Can u please help

 

Not a mechanic, but I have also installed Sumosprings on my Tundra. I bought the black ( 1500lb ) springs and have been very happy with them. With my 4500lb boat hitched to the back, my wife and I in the truck and the back seat area and truck box full of vacation stuff, only 1.5 inch of squat. Add to that the ride quality was great, firm but not harsh.

For me I didn't feel the empty truck ride quality suffered much at all, on bigger bumps and dips maybe somewhat. Went hunting with a friend in October 500+ mile trip and he thought the truck rode fine. YMMV as they say, but I love the fact that once installed they are completely self sufficient, with no compressor, or plumbing to fail or require maintenance.

Super Springs International ( manufacturer of Sumosprings ) has end of year sale that I think is still on.

 

I have the black ones which are in the middle for stiffness. I pull a trailer that has a 550lbs of tongue, the reason why I use them. The black Sumospring effected the ride very little and really can't tell much of a difference. I was going to do air bags but like the idea of install and forget. Some have reported a harsher ride using the yellow Sumospring which are the HD spring.

 

Probably the failed check valve in the tank.

Have a read.

 

Can a cracked or improperly working ignition coil cause a P0171 lean code by chance? I've been fighting this code and have changed my fuel filter, cleaned MAF, checked vacuum lines and jumped my fuel pump resistor to no avail. Starting to run out of options that I can think of.

 

Unlikely. You should get a misfire code for the coil.
How does it idle? You took the tank down fo change the fuel filter? What method did you use to clean the MAF sensor? How many miles on the truck.

Common causes for P0171 are

• Dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor
• Vacuum leaks – PCV hose, vacuum hoses, intake manifold gasket.
• Weak fuel pump
• Clogged or dirty fuel injectors
• Exhaust leak

 

So for the past 6 months or so every time I go up a steep incline and im 50% in the throttle I get surging but only on steep hills. I have a 2000 4.7 with 168,000 miles and the filter is on the frame rail so it was a easy change. Also since this light has been coming on I have a rough idle, nothing drastic but you can feel the truck kind of shaking a bit however when driving it feels perfectly fine and at idle is when I seem to get the pending code on my scan gauge.

• I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner and ohm'd it out and it was within spec
• Replaced bank 1 sensor 1 O2.
• I don't hear any leaks I went through lines and cut off cracked ends of hoses. " Did get a starter last year so new intake gasket " and I sprayed around with brake cleaner listening for idle changes.
• I ohm'd out my fuel pump resistor and it was .9 ohms spec is .7 though .76.
• Placed a jumper on the fuel pump resistor and surging is totally gone but I still get the code.
• Fuel injectors are original.
• Slight exhaust leak on manifold when cold and a couple pin holes in muffler and resonator.
• I checked all coils this morning and 3 have cracks down the bodies.

 

I have noticed some oil residue around the PCV, I have taken it out and can blow through it and the float moves on its own however if you think the gasket and PCV could be the issue I would give it a try also.

 

The cracks in the boots could cause issues especially in humid weather. Change the boots out on all banks. The 4.7 was known to have a problem with cracking the exhaust manifold. This can cause bad O2 reading and effect drivability. I have successfully welded them up. Did you check the plugs? Take them out and read them and see which cylinders are running lean. Replace the plugs when you have them out.

If the PCV is moving when you shake it it's probably fine. You can spray some brake clean though it to clean it out. A little oil residue is fine as long as there are no leaks.