Ask the Toyota mechanic!

What positions are the ones that are not working. You said they don't unlock from the switch, do they lock?

 

I have an issue with my automatic side mirrors. My passenger side folds in when I hit the button but the driver side only moves a little bit. Please help. Thanks in advance

 

If your getting a result every time you hit the button in that it moves your most likely looking at a mirror replacement.

 

Thank you

 

They do lock. They just don’t unlock.

 

Then it wasn't an actuator problem. The polarity just changes on the actuator for lock and unlock. You haven't told me the location of the actuators that are not working? Without knowing my guess in the driver's side door switch. Customers leave there windows open and water gets into the switch.

 

My bad. None of them work except the driver front. Those 3 failed at the same time for a week, came back for a few days, then went out again.

 

What is wrong when truck doesn’t want to get out of 4lo? Yes I put it in neutral first, it just beeps, sometimes it engages and works fine. Sometimes it doesn’t get into 4lo, sometimes it doesn’t want to get out of 4lo, my fix when that happens is to turn the truck off then restart it. I asked the dealer to look into it but they said it’s $125 just to look into it and I said that’s ridiculous, any ideas?

 

Open up the door panels up again and put a test light on the connector to the actuators that has failed. Only two wires on the connector. Does the test light come on when you operate the switch in both directions? Do it for each failed actuator and report back.

 

Ok

Light goes off when locking. Light does not go off when unlocking. On all 3 broken doors it’s the same.

 

Are you using the driver's side switch?

 

Yes.

 

More than likely it's the switch that has the problem. You could verify by back probing the connector but you will need a wiring diagram. I could look up the color for you later but I'm heading out fishing.

 

So on the passenger side switch plug, behind the door, I run the light to it and flip the switch from the drivers side and it very weakly lights up. Possibly a relay or something?

 

So I replaced the pump and so far so good... time will tell. Thanks for you help troubleshooting this.

 

Nice

 

I can have the truck and the fan turned on with no sounds, then when I hit the AC button the clunk/crunch sound immediately follows. I was able to trace it back to the engine bay and not below the dash.

 

Have someone else push the ac button while your listening under the hood. The compressor is low on the driver's side. Does the noise come from that area? If you can reproduce it take it in to the dealer and have the tech listen. You still have lots of warranty left.

 

I finally was able to get it on video, I am going to take it in this weekend. Hopefully something comes of it.
https://youtu.be/bwL8vi6pEqo

 

I'm having issues, mainly with cold start. First start takes an extra crank sometimes but when it catches, it doesn't fire right up. It stumbles a bit but then runs fine. Warm up idle might be a tad rough. But once warm, it starts and cranks just fine with no issues. Truck is a 2017 DC sr5 5.7 non-ffv. I'm aware the ffv trucks had a computer update to correct the problem. Truck currently has 35k miles on it, been doing it since I got it last year. The service history is showing that it had been in a few times before I got it for coil pack issues. I'm starting to wonder if the bad coil pack may have fouled a plug early and that is causing my problems.

 

I've got a " clunk" from the front end. It's always while turning at low speed. I feel like it's more prominent when slowing down or speeding up like when the weight transfers. It developed after I installed coilovers, not initially but not long after.. Based on some research seems similar situations are tied to the tie rod or sway bar links? I do know I had a hell of a time getting one of the sway bar links back on so it could have been damaged. I did re torque everything after a few hundred miles.. nothing felt loose.. any thoughts? It's just a single clunck typically an there are times I drive an don't hear it at all but it's noticable.. I attached a pic of the end link in question..

Thanks in advance

17 SR5 64k on it..

 

Do you have access to Techstream. Many things can cause these symptoms but you have to start by checking trouble codes and the data stream. You can't assume that a previous problem is your current problem. Fouled plugs would throw misfire codes. A couple of years ago we had a Tundra that would have issues starting when cold. Would crank and stumble then finally start. Once started no issues. Turned out to be a bad check valve in the fuel pump that would bleed off the fuel pressure. This doesn't mean it's you issue. Dont do the "poke and hope". The money and time you spend replacing parts could be saved by bring it in to the dealer.

 

Its not throwing any codes. Never has. I've cleaned the throttle body and mass air sensor. I had a similar issue on a Ford explorer. Would have issues first thing in the morning or after sitting several hours. Turns out one of the plugs broke an electrode. Never threw any codes for misfire either. I'll probably end up pulling plugs to inspect them, and check for damage.

 

Past experience with a Ford is not the proper way to diag. I asked if you have techstream because you can read the misfire data and see if any if the plugs are misfiring. If your set on the poke and hope I'm not sure why your here asking for advice.

 

Did you have the lower control arms out. I'm not sure what your referring to as coilovers? Are you referring to a spacer? Tie rods are very unlikely. The Tundra's tie rods are extremely reliable. I've seen where the lower control arms bolts haven't been tightened enough and a clunk is felt when the truck brakes or turns. Sway bar clunks are heard more on rough or irregular surfaces and not so much on weight transfer.

 

I did not loosen the lower contol arms durring my install. (Coilovers being adjustable Toytec). I know when I took it for alignment the tech mentioned " tightening all the cam adjustment bolts on the lower control arms" it's entirely possible it could be those as I never check the torque on them personally.

 

It's possible the tech never got them tight enough. They need to be "tight like a tiger" tight. I rattle my impact on them for awhile. I've never seen a tech use a torque wrench on them. If you do find them loose I would take it back to have the alignment redone. The cams could have moved and knock the alignment out.

 

Damn.. well I wanted to have that done anyway. Don't those take like 200ft lbs? Well thanks for the help

 

A good hint that your alignment is off is that your steering wheel is not perfectly straight as you drive. If it was when you got the truck back after the alignment and it's slightly off now there's a good chance the bolts are loose.

 

That appears to me to be your sway bar link, and it looks done.