Ask the Toyota mechanic!

@LOTSOFTOYS

Regarding leaking rear shocks on my 2016 Tundra CM with 38k miles.

Been using local shop for last 10 years to service our 2 Toyota's.

Last visit they show me a small spot on rear shock below the "weep hole" if that's the name, where some fluid/oil has "dripped".

I've seen the toyota graphic that shows normal wear and this leak falls within that category.

I do not have any excessive bounce or anything that suggests there is a problem other than what I've posted here.

The shop wants to replace them. I find it hard to believe they need replaced at 38k miles.

Your opinion is appreciated. Thank you !

 

Probably just fine. You are right that Toyota allows a certain amount of sweating but they shouldn't drip. Take a rag and wipe down the body of the shock. Watch them closely for the next couple of months and see how they look.

 

Much appreciated

 

I will do just that.

Thank you so much...

 

Ok I've got one for you. I have a 2020 SR5 CM 4x4. The factory radio won't power on, the adjustable mirrors don't work. I have checked every fuse in the cabin and under the hood with a test light and they all appear to be good. (fuse labeled USB does not have power to either side for some reason.) I have 12v constant to the back of the radio and 2 wires have switched ACC power. Is there a fuse I'm missing? Do the mirrors and the radio share a circuit/relay somewhere? Any insight would be helpful as I can't find anything online and I have been looking for 3 days. I have attached pictures of the fuse box layouts for my truck in case that would help.

 

Why are you messing with a brand new truck. Bring it back to the dealer and it will be fixed for free.

That was easy.

 

Trying to avoid 2 things. One trying to avoid spending the day at a dealer over a blown relay. Two I'm trying to avoid them trying to blame me for it because I have an amp and sub installed and trying to charge me for diag and repair all over a blown relay lol.

 

The problem is if you find something needs replacing it could be very expensive. Can you not just return the truck back to stock and see if your problem is fixed? If the problem is still there then visit the dealer.

 

I have already attempted to remove power to the amp and disconnect the line out converter. That did not fix the issue.

 

Remove everything and return to the dealer. Don't take this as a insult but your electrical skills aren't sufficient to solve the problem and you may cause further damage.

Working on a electrical problem without a wiring diagram is kind of like driving to Argentina without a road map.

 

Hi Ruggybuggy - T/S question for you on my 2012 Tundra TRD Rock Warrior edition with 23K miles on it. My son and I installed the TRD Cold Air Intake mod. Went very well and took extra care with the MAF sensor. When we re-installed and connected the battery I received check engine code with P0102 and P0113 showing on my Innova scan tool. Did some weekend T/S and found the MAF and IAT harness giving me good volts and ground (12V on MAF and 5V on IAT). Local Toyota dealer had a new MAF sensor; so for $78 I picked it up and installed hoping to clear the codes. No luck. Still seeing P0102 and P0113 in the scan tool. Truck idles and runs well. The check engine light is also off but it bothers me to see the codes triggering in the scan tool. Any thoughts? Thanks. Mike from Fort Mill, SC

 

Hey Mike, do you have access to Techstream? You going to have to be able to read the data stream to diagnose it properly. Tundra's mass flow sensors are very reliable along with the wiring. You didn't mention what cold air intake you installed. Because you never had the problem before the install try putting back the stock intake, clear the codes and see if the problem returns.

 

Dave - Thanks for the quick reply. I installed the OEM TRD cold air intake (P/N - PRT0334100). Photo attached.
Q1)Do you have access to Techstream?
A1)No access to Techstream or Techstream Lite.

Thanks for the suggestion on re-installing the factory intake. I can do that but before reverting back I might poke around for some additional T/S. If anything else comes to mind please do share.

Mike

 

I do have access to Techstream. You can download a pirated version. There is a link on the forum somewhere. Being able to see the live data stream you can verify the sensor values.

 

did you clear the codes and see if it comes back?

 

Daniel - I did clear them. When I run the DTC the codes still trigger. Photos attached. Can you suggest any further T/S?

Mike

 

Those are being shown on your scanner as "permanent", they can't be cleared that I've ever read. I have a couple permanent codes set in my ECU, I think one is somethingsomething out of range. Since they first set as permanent they've never set the CEL again. I've bricked and recovered my ECU twice (long story) and they're still there. If your CEL is not on, I think that you're going to have to live with it.

 

I had a non-Toyota with permanent codes. The mechanic had to do some research and eventually drill down through several menus on his code reader (one of the fancy units from SnapOn) before he found a way to clear them. If you know a mechanic with one of of the fancy ODBII tester/code readers, it might be worth a trip and a six-pack to see if he can find a way to clear them.

 

I'm not worried about it for myself, but @mrn320 may be interested. That's certainly good information, thanks.

 

Thanks Randy and Wynnded. I'll deal with the permanent codes for now and down the road look for a fancy "Snap-on" or "Techstream" friend to try and clear them.

 

FWIW, I wasn't able to clear the permanent code via my pirated version of TechStream. It's isn't the latest version though either.

 

Wondering if anyone would know if you can program your doors to lock at a set speed . I wanted to mask the abs self check with the door locks. ABS does check at 6mph. Asked the dealer to set it to lock at 6mph. Just picked it up and they set it to lock at 15mph . So the question. Can it be set like that or do they have a list of times it will lock(shift out of park, 5,10,15 mph) was looking to buy a TechStream if this is possible to do

 

Question my idle in drive drops to like 500 or 600rpm's, is there anything i can do to change that. sometimes causes the truck to run a lil rough?

 

How many miles?

 

43,000miles. I bought it with 27,000 miles

 

The idle is not adjustable but there are things you can do to make it idle better. If you don't have a check engine light on some basic maintenance can help. Many things can cause a slightly rough idle. Some are dirty fuel injectors, plugged air filter, dirty throttle body, contaminated mass air flow sensor from performance air filter and poor quality fuel. Make sure the air filter is clean, add a fuel system cleaner (Toyota parts department has a good one), clean your mass air flow sensor with a mass air flow cleaner (Napa) and use a good quality fuel. If none of that helps change the plugs.

 

I cleaned my throttle body, replaced my air intake with the trd cai, and cleaned my mass air flow sensor not with cleaner from nappa, i will try fuel cleaner, then the plugs if all else fails.

 

2007 Sequoia, 170k, 4x4 - surging intermitently from 2k-3k rpms around 30 mph, happens more when going uphill - any hill- but also many times just in fnotmal conditions,
replaced MAF, Cleaned throttle body, new pcv, ran redline through fuel system, new ngk plugs

any help greatly appreciated.

 

You need to monitor missfire data using Techstream to see if you have any missfires. I'm assuming you have no codes? I've also seen torque converter problems that feel like missfires but that's unlikely. Water in fuel can cause the issue as well so change the place your getting your fuel and run some isopropyl in the tank. I know you said you ran redline but you might have recontaminated from the fuel source.

 

Thank you. You are correct, no codes. Its only happening within a certain rpm range though within a certain speed range as well. ive burned through an entire tank of gas. yes used redline.
would o2 sensors on the way out cause this?
trying to avoid going to the dealer. im pretty handy around the engine just was hoping yall had had the issue solved here since ive seen it posted numerous times on multiple forums.