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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Feb 10, 2019 at 12:40 PM
    #1471
    paul c

    paul c New Member

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    Hopefully a quick question. Just picked up my new tundra Friday and I noticed when it’s cold and first started the engine is slightly noisy, would almost say it’s a piston slap type of noise. Going back to the dealer tomorrow for them to straighten out a couple of things and I was going to have them start up another new one with the 5.7 to listen to that. Is it common for these to have some noise when cold? It’s not deafening by any means but I was a mechanic and do have an ear for theses things. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Feb 10, 2019 at 3:12 PM
    #1472
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon "220, 221- WHATEVER IT TAKES" - Michael Keaton

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    The 5.7, for all its reliability, does make a little noise especially when it is cold. I think it is probably normal. Congrats on the new Tundra!
     
  3. Feb 10, 2019 at 4:52 PM
    #1473
    paul c

    paul c New Member

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    It figures, as long as it’s normal. I asked a friend that works for Lexus and he said their full size suv with the 5.7 is known for it. Thanks.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  4. Feb 10, 2019 at 8:08 PM
    #1474
    CaptSpaulding

    CaptSpaulding ...ain't nothin but nothin

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    After starting up cold, go to the passenger wheel well and listen for about 20 seconds. You'll most likely hear it stop. There is a air injection system that runs during that time
     
  5. Feb 11, 2019 at 5:26 AM
    #1475
    paul c

    paul c New Member

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    Quite the opposite, once that fan starts to free up then you hear it for the next few minutes. Once in gear it stops or once it’s up to temp it’s gone. Typing this as I just started it up cold.
     
  6. Feb 11, 2019 at 11:11 AM
    #1476
    CaptSpaulding

    CaptSpaulding ...ain't nothin but nothin

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    Damn, not the easy answer. I'll ask a mechanic buddy today and provide some insight later....hopefully
     
  7. Feb 11, 2019 at 11:26 AM
    #1477
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    The guy at the Lexus dealer was correct.
     
  8. Mar 8, 2019 at 5:02 AM
    #1478
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Getting ready for first oil change- not letting dealer touch it!!

    EB5527A5-6A40-4D5B-9308-E9D9FB1791A4.jpg

    Amazon says does not fit- is this true?

    Other filters say they do fit have last -YZZA4- YZZA1 ???

    Good deal?

    Should I go with wix on other aftermarket filters?

    Thx in advance
     
  9. Mar 8, 2019 at 5:34 AM
    #1479
    matrdguy

    matrdguy New Member

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    I have an issue that you might help identify, I ws doing spark plug change on my 2011 5.7 Tundra ( 200,000 mile change, I change plugs every 100,000) running Denso Iridium plugs.

    Passenger side # 3 plug hole ( from front to rear) had a bunch of engine oil in it. Threads had oil on them and also in the hole, but the electrode was fine and burned clean, just like all the other plugs ..looked beautiful. Light discoloration an the bottom of the ceramic part of plug... but I have seen worse..

    No issues with performance ( that I can feel or hear) so Im kinda at a loss as to what it might be. No other leaks on manifold or anywhere else in engine compartment.

    Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks in advance

    Picture is order they were removed in.. Left plug is closest to front of truck20190308_082717.jpg
     
  10. Mar 8, 2019 at 6:02 AM
    #1480
    Theyfzman

    Theyfzman New Member

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    Its the valve cover leaking oil into the spark plug hole, they have a rubber gasket that seal them I do believe and since the plug sits way down inside the head that kind of common prob needs new gaskets
     
  11. Mar 8, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #1481
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    @Midnite72 DO NOT USE THAT FILTER! That filter is too SHORT! I only use Toyota OEM filters, but that one is wrong. The correct filter is PN 04152-YZZA4. Includes the o-rings you need, and that pizzy little plastic valve...I toss that thing and use the Motiv housing drain tool.

    Don't forget to recycle the (LONGER) perforated center tube out of your plastic housing. Bend the retaining tabs, push down and turn to remove, insert with the spring in new aluminum housing in same manner, re-bend the tabs to retain. (Edit: If you change to the aluminum housing, this step is not optional...it is mandatory. Center tube supports your filter element...without the longer tube, the filter will collapse and the element eventually destructs.)

    Torque values: Oil drain plug 30 ft-lbs, filter housing 18 ft-lbs, housing drain valve 9 ft-lbs.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2019
    Midnite72 and NewImprovedRon like this.
  12. Mar 8, 2019 at 6:57 AM
    #1482
    matrdguy

    matrdguy New Member

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    Thank you for the reply.. What is the detriment of just letting it be for awhile ? ( not replacing right away) ...just have lil too much on my plate right now $$ wise to take it to dealer...

    Is this serious ?
     
  13. Mar 8, 2019 at 7:39 AM
    #1483
    Theyfzman

    Theyfzman New Member

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    It’s nothing major unless it fills up the plug hole. If it’s just a bit run that baby
     
  14. Mar 8, 2019 at 10:11 AM
    #1484
    Wynnded

    Wynnded Wait, what?

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    Throwing this out there for some feedback.

    2011 5.7L 70K

    On occasion I notice that my temperature gauge is indicating "low" even after it's been driven for greater than 30 minutes. What I mean by low is the needle sitting at about 1/4 deflection of the gauge after having been at the normal just below 1/2 deflection. My OBDII scanner tells me that the coolant temp is 140-160 ish at the 1/4 indication. This doesn't happen while on the highway or on secondary roads, but I caught it on a 25mph residential street.

    I'm wondering if possibly the t-stat could have a hitch in it and might be sticking slightly open. For the reasonably inexpensive cost and what looks like darn easy access, I was considering replacing it. Is it as straightforward as it appears or am I overlooking something?

    Ambient temps yesterday were about freezing, but that shouldn't make a difference.
    Coolant is full.

    Thanks.
     
  15. Mar 8, 2019 at 11:07 AM
    #1485
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Thanks for all the great info John appreciate it
     
  16. Mar 8, 2019 at 11:54 AM
    #1486
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    @LOTSOFTOYS Newborn, eh...that'll keep you from checking your email. :D

    @Wynnded If I understand all I think I know about thermostats, I agree with your diagnosis.

    Thermostats are not on/off operation. They open wide when engine coolant temperature demands it, and as the lower temperature coolant from the radiator begins to drop the engine coolant temperature, the thermostat senses the change and begins to close until it is open just enough to maintain the design temperature at steady state. If there is a change in operating conditions (speed, grade, temperature, etc) the thermostat should adjust as the conditions change.

    As you said, your thermostat is opening wide and sticking in the open position imo, and that is lowering your engine temp below design. When you shut it off, the thermostat will eventually cool enough that it is forced to close.
     
    Trooper2 and Wynnded like this.
  17. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:16 AM
    #1487
    DarthMurdicide

    DarthMurdicide Executive Redneck

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    I have an intermittent clicking noise, I’m assuming it’s an actuator / relay, coming from around my steering column or a little left of it. Totally random, various speeds, even happens when the AC is completely off. It sounds EXACTLY like the click when you turn on or off the rear window defroster, but I don’t think that’s it because the rear window defroster is off. Any suggestions?
     
  18. Mar 12, 2019 at 1:28 PM
    #1488
    r1-superstar

    r1-superstar Kailua Boy

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    Alright, I got a hose clamp, radiator hose, and clamped it like this picture. This is NOT the root of the problem. I have traced it to these metal tubes that bring hot antifreeze into the cab for the heater. The rattle/buzz is most noticeable with the heater on. As soon as I turn it off, the noise goes away. It doesn't do it with the A/C on nor just the fan. *Note: this happens between 1400-1900 rpm in gears higher than first.

    I also noticed the black vent tube was loose so I zip tied it to the chassis. I also wrapped radiator hose around one of the silver tubes and zip tied it on to help eliminate the rattle/buzz. Now I'm going to wrap the other silver tube and zip tie them together to see if the sounds goes away. Anybody have any ideas? This is super annoying.



















    Got it fixed!!! I went ahead and wrapped each tube with radiator hose cut to fit. I zip tied the hose on and zip tied the two hoses together. This eliminated the rattle/buzzing sound. Word of caution; these pipes get HOT!!

     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019
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  19. Mar 12, 2019 at 2:59 PM
    #1489
    B.T.R.

    B.T.R. New Member

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    2010 crewmax 5.7 4x2. Getting code P0393 which shows camshaft position sensor. I'm reading that there are multiple sensors. I installed the new sensor and cleared the code from the ecu and within 10 seconds of starting it comes back. Got the same result putting the new sensor at each location. All the wires are intact on all the connectors. I'm at a complete loss right now. Anyone else experience this?
     
  20. Mar 21, 2019 at 10:23 AM
    #1490
    farmer307

    farmer307 New Member

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    Question.

    Is a KN oil filter worth installing?
     
  21. Mar 21, 2019 at 10:57 AM
    #1491
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    No.

    There is a "placebo" effect that makes you feel like you have more power with it than without it. It's called "psychological horsepower". :D
     
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  22. Mar 21, 2019 at 11:05 AM
    #1492
    farmer307

    farmer307 New Member

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    Lol never heard that one before but was wondering if it was worth it seen the comparison between K&N , mobile 1, and the factory Toyota filter
     
  23. Mar 21, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    #1493
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Sorry, I'm biased against K&N style filters (oil wetted loose weave media).

    I had one on a chipped 87 Vette; the car ran like a rabbit with a bobcat on it's tail. I was convinced that the K&N was why that car ran so well, and then I started thinking like an engineer. I finally decided that the K&N wasn't really helping; it was the chip...that car just ran like a rabbit regardless of air cleaner. I dumped the K&N and the constant maintenance and never looked back.

    There is a range of filtering protection for air going into your engine from NO FILTER to the K&N filter to the OEM pleated paper filter. There is a trade-off in pressure drop across the filter for perceived performance increase. No air filter would the ideal situation, but your engine will pay a price if you're expecting to keep it awhile. Is it worth it to sacrifice clean inlet air for an immeasurable performance gain (K&N)?...I didn't think so. There's no free lunch...minimize the pressure drop across the air filter, and you're sacrificing filtering efficiency. Your air cleaner is not cleaning as many of the bigger chunks out of your inlet air, and your engine won't last as long. JMHO.
     
  24. Mar 21, 2019 at 12:19 PM
    #1494
    farmer307

    farmer307 New Member

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    I was wondering about the oil filter but I have the K&N air filter (not cold air intake) because I’m constantly off road and to clean the filter and put it in helps me a ton.
     
  25. Mar 21, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #1495
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Oh, the K&N oil filter. I've never tried one. I'm pretty predictable: I only use Toyota filters in my Toyotas.

    I have no idea how anyone could offer any objective thoughts on oil filter performance without a LOT of oil samples taken and sent off for testing, not to mention cutting filters open, and even possibly a couple of engines wasted. Without that, you're just regurgitating the marketing BS they've fed you. Here's my go to for research (half-kidding): https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=k&n+oil+filter . I'm sure you'll find something in these videos that confirms what you want to believe.
     
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  26. Mar 22, 2019 at 5:25 AM
    #1496
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    @dragos28 had a K&N and he had to take his intake and throttle body apart and clean all the dust out of it because so much crap was getting past the filter.
     
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  27. Mar 22, 2019 at 6:06 AM
    #1497
    farmer307

    farmer307 New Member

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    What kind of air filter did he have? The basic or the cold air intake?
     
  28. Mar 22, 2019 at 6:08 AM
    #1498
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    it doesn't matter, all reusable oiled filters will let too much dirt through

    But he had the K&N stock drop in
     
  29. Mar 22, 2019 at 6:09 AM
    #1499
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Filters are $16 on Amazon. A tank of gas is how much???

    I change my filter every 2 or 3 off road trips.
     
  30. Mar 22, 2019 at 6:16 AM
    #1500
    farmer307

    farmer307 New Member

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    Off-road everyday so I clean both once a week should probably be doing it more though. Really dusty area and heavy thick mud when it rains a real truck test ground that’s for sure.
     
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