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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Oct 10, 2015 at 4:17 PM
    #121
    cfdfireman90

    cfdfireman90 New Member

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    I have had this happen on other trucks I've owned, and as a state licensed motor vehicle inspector, have seen it on many vehicles. I use mine regularly to avoid such an issue. On most vehicles, the parking brake is a mechanical device and therefore with little to no use, will eventually seize up. Especially in northern areas where salt is used in the winter. Also as far as New Hampshire is concerned, a parking brake is necessary to pass state inspection.
     
  2. Oct 11, 2015 at 6:41 PM
    #122
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    OK. Today I changed the oil for the first time on my new truck. Got me on a roll and went down and bought a grease gun just for the tundra. A tube of Lucas and went to town lubing up the five zerk fittings on the front and rear driveshaft. They all took about 10 pumps before any would show itself out of the seals. Went ahead and gave it a few more pumps until I saw the nice clean red grease flowing out. Obviously this after I scraped the paint off each zerk. I can only assume they just put a small amount of grease and to keep everything clean on a new truck?

    OK next part is the actual questions.
    1. Lubing up the slip yoke's front and rear consists of cutting the two bands off of them and replacing with hose clamps? I read a few pieces in some threads but no real definitive answer. Does this also throw off the balance of the driveshaft being that the hose clamp has a heavy end? I'm also looking for the proper procedure to do this. IE. Unbolt from this side, slide it out this far, lube this part, put it back together.

    2. I also read of some people using the needle attachment for their grease gun and filling the ball joints and tie rod ends etc. Obviously I'm not anywhere near this point in my maintenance, but I would like to know for future reference. To me it doesn't seem like the best idea as you're now opening a hole allowed to bring in debris and in turn shortening the life of the joint. Maybe at that point you're just trying to milk some more time out of those joints avoiding the inevitable. What are your thoughts on this?

    3. And my maintenance guide talks about checking the torque on the driveshaft bolts, body mount bolts and so on. Is this really necessary!?

    I have owned quite a few vehicles and my time and never had any problems with stuff like that loosening up. My wife's Scion also suggests in the maintenance guide checking the chassis bolts.
    We took her car in for all the free maintenance when we got it, and I bet my left nut they never checked a single bolt on that thing. 80,000+ miles later and it's still good to go.
     
  3. Oct 11, 2015 at 6:49 PM
    #123
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Hahaha that last part cracked me up man. First off, alot of these newer slip yokes aren't greasable. They put a sealed boot on it for a reason. Should you ever have a slip yoke problem(never have seen one).... grease your u joints like u did every other oil change and call it good. I def. Would advise against trying to lube your ball joints. If u manage to get more grease In there, I bet you rip or tear or comprise the boot somehow to achieve that. No point. Drive the truck and enjoy it.

    If u want to lube something and feel like u accomplished something worth a damn? Take your lower control arm eccentrics (cam adjusters) out one by one with the truck off the ground and antiseize the crap out of them. Reinstall and have it realigned.

    When these sieze, and they will around 100-200k miles. You'll be upset at the coSt of new control arms.
     
    okcowboy, 2416, robie56 and 2 others like this.
  4. Oct 18, 2015 at 1:09 PM
    #124
    Sefferston

    Sefferston #37sandlongtravel

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    On a scale of 1-10, how difficult is diff work? I want to add in an ARB air locker because 2WD, and I've never done any diff work. I know my way around a wrench though, been working on vehicles a good chunk of my life and aircraft for the last 7 years.

    Also, is the 2WD oil cooler down by the bumper or did I get scammed from the dealer just saying there is one? It looks like one....just never seen one that low before.
     
  5. Oct 18, 2015 at 2:39 PM
    #125
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    I'd pull the third and have a reputable shop install and set up the diff with the ARB. It requires some specialized measuring devices and tools...and a lot of patience and practice.
     
    Sefferston likes this.
  6. Oct 18, 2015 at 6:01 PM
    #126
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Agreed^ let someone else set it up for u and u can install it. All the reasons stated above are correct
     
  7. Oct 18, 2015 at 6:06 PM
    #127
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Bigfoot Hunter, Sasquatch too, but not Yeti

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    TuwaPro rack, Z1 Offroad stuff, NISMO suspension stuff, FlowmasterFX Extreme exhaust, AIS, OVS, J&L can, other goodies on the way
    Check to see if you have a Yukon Gear & Axle shop near you. All they do is axles and diffs. They will install non Yukon aftermarket goodies .(and they are very good at it):https://www.yukongear.com/
     
  8. Oct 19, 2015 at 7:58 PM
    #128
    Stelly

    Stelly New Member

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    TRD Rock Warrior 17" Wheels, BFG Tires 315/70/17 KO2's, 1.25" front spacers, TRD Intake, N-Fab BAJA Pro Bumper, Hella Lights, LED fog bulbs
    Question regarding Tundra TRD Pro's. The front lift from the factory, how much of a lift is it, and can a little more be added with out changing other suspension components? The reason I ask is that I am looking for more front rake than rear, pre-runner style with the nose a little higher than the tail. Not much, like an additional 1/2 to 3/4. Would I be able to add Toytec's top plate spacers, or would that push me past some sort of limit?
     
  9. Oct 20, 2015 at 8:37 AM
    #129
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Yeah u could, that would work. Then just have it aligned.
     
  10. Oct 29, 2015 at 7:24 AM
    #130
    Lumpy

    Lumpy New Member

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    This morning after driving to work (37 miles), I stopped to make a left turn and my truck died. When I restarted it, the check engine light came on and stayed on. Truck ran fine into the parking lot. Started it to leave work and the auto crank did not seem to work. I held the key and it started and ran fine to Autozone near my home. They checked the codes and I had P0101, P0102 and all 4 O2 sensors were failed. This seemed very strange that all of these sensors would fail simultaneously. Note that I did replace the Bank 2 Sensor 2 about 2 months ago. Is there a fuse that feeds all of these sensors or is there another possible cause?
     
  11. Oct 29, 2015 at 11:40 AM
    #131
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    101 and 102 is bank 1 sensors 1 and 2 correct? Not near a computer right now....
     
    Coppell likes this.
  12. Oct 29, 2015 at 12:23 PM
    #132
    Lumpy

    Lumpy New Member

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    Mass air flow
     
  13. Oct 29, 2015 at 12:34 PM
    #133
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    What do u mean all 4 sensors had failed?
     
  14. Oct 29, 2015 at 12:38 PM
    #134
    Lumpy

    Lumpy New Member

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    The codes indicated that all 4 O2 sensors had failed. Along with the mass air flow sensor.
     
  15. Oct 29, 2015 at 2:46 PM
    #135
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Just those two codes?
     
  16. Oct 30, 2015 at 5:55 AM
    #136
    Lumpy

    Lumpy New Member

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  17. Nov 2, 2015 at 8:17 AM
    #137
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 [OP] Elon approved Staff Member

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    Posting for @pejohnson
     
  18. Nov 2, 2015 at 11:58 AM
    #138
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Entirely too long of a post. One question at a time.

    And @Lumpy I still need to get on the computer and do some research about those codes
     
    Sefferston likes this.
  19. Nov 2, 2015 at 1:21 PM
    #139
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    @Lumpy
    So those codes both relate to mass airflow. 101 is range performance, 102 is a circuit code so open or short.

    Neither of those have anything to do with 02 sensors? So how someone came to the conclusion of u needing all 4 sensors is beyond me....

    Most likely it's a maf sensor problem itself if the truck still runs ok. Vs a wiring problem.
    Did I ask if u had a stock or aftermarket intake/filter?
     
  20. Nov 22, 2015 at 12:28 PM
    #140
    AaronK

    AaronK New Member

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    Hi,
    Started noticing what sounds like some valve noise on my 2002 2UZ Tundra for the first few seconds after a cold weather start (below 30°). Running 5w-30 Castrol conventional.
    This pretty normal? Should I bump up to a 10w-30?
     
  21. Nov 22, 2015 at 2:53 PM
    #141
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Is there any chance it's the "tick" noise alot of people experience with first gens when an exhaust manifold cracks?
     
  22. Nov 22, 2015 at 2:55 PM
    #142
    AaronK

    AaronK New Member

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    It only does out from a cold start and it only lasts a few seconds. Seems like a manifold would be more persistent wouldn't it?
     
  23. Nov 22, 2015 at 6:12 PM
    #143
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Nope that's exactly what a cracked manifold sounds like. Heats up and closes the leak
     
  24. Nov 22, 2015 at 6:51 PM
    #144
    AaronK

    AaronK New Member

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    Well shit
     
  25. Nov 22, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #145
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Take a video for us. I'm betting that's the issue tho. Really common on the earlier non vvti 4.7s
    I will say it won't hurt anything, other than annoy u;)
    If u want to fix it, id recommend gain some performance with headers!
     
  26. Nov 23, 2015 at 6:58 AM
    #146
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Do these typically crack in a somewhat specific place? Passenger or driver side? At certain cylinders?
     
  27. Nov 23, 2015 at 7:50 AM
    #147
    AaronK

    AaronK New Member

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    Went to shoot a video this morning but it wasn't cold enough for it to do it. Supposed to be in the 20s later this week, I'll keep trying.
    Thanks for your assistance!
     
    LOTSOFTOYS likes this.
  28. Nov 23, 2015 at 10:42 AM
    #148
    chunk

    chunk New Member

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    I was going to ask this in a new thread, but this might be okay to ask here. 2001 4.7 Tundra with 80k miles on the truck. My shocks seem to have lost their ability to damp the bounces somewhat. Any suggestions for a replacement set, all four. Toyota oem, or rancho, bilstien or??? Also, should i replace the springs up front as well, or reuse with the new shock? Thanks for any suggestions. The truck is all stock BTW. Tundra no lid-001.jpg
     
  29. Nov 23, 2015 at 12:09 PM
    #149
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    You know, that's a damn good question... haven't done a set in over a year. Most customers just live with the noise for the price of new ones. I do know it happens to both sides regularly.


    If you'd like to stay at stock ride height you could look into the oem bilsteins. They really do a great job for a stock application. Might also check out bilsteins 5100 series shocks. They offer adjustability up front for probably a little cheaper than oem. Both are great choices. I've never been a fan of ranchos. Always seem to leak prematurely
     
  30. Nov 26, 2015 at 10:50 AM
    #150
    AaronK

    AaronK New Member

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    Ok so being 28 when I woke up this morning, I figured it was cold enough to try this again...
    Here's video of the sound.
    https://youtu.be/ZnGsFj3mnXk
     
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