Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Start there ^

 

First, do your rear 1st gen double cab doors stay open? Mine constantly close even on flat ground and it drives me crazy especially with the kids. The fronts have that locking aspect and will stay open even on hills but the rears always just close by themselves.

Second, I can't leave a gas pump in the filler neck unattended. It will pop right out and turn off. Is this normal and if not any ideas? Right now I have to jam the gas pump into the filler neck and use my body to keep it from shutting off. Again super annoying and happens at every pump I use.

 

My rear and front doors do not close by themselves, even on inclines and also no problem with the gas pump needing babysitting, just stick it in and lock it on until full and clicks off. Chunk.

 

You need to replacemyour door checks. They are those little plasticarms that hold the doors open about midway up near the hinges. I need to do one of mine as well. As for the gas pump thing, it does sound like you have a problem. Its designed to vent as the fuel rushes in. Once its full it can longer vent and the pump senses that pressure and shuts off. May have a problem with the small valve in tank.

 

I'll have to look into the door checks. As for the gas tank, it shuts off when it is full but yeah I want to get it checked out soon. Would suck if it doesn't register the tank being full and overfills by accident. Thanks for the help!

 

@LOTSOFTOYS

I have a question about training. I recently took my RW into a dealer for a rotation/maintenance and they fixed a slow leaker for me. I got the truck back with the paint removed from the lug nut holes because they used a air gun on the lug nuts. I thought I read years ago that a air wrench was not standard protocol for the RW wheel because of the small diameter. This is just one of the issues though. They curb rashed my tire and the bead ring, dented my TRD center cap, left the blue grease all over the tire.

The air wrench has me concerned also because I never had rotors issues but I just came out of the mountains and now my steering wheel wobbles with moderate breaking.

Maybe Sean was right and I should only trust you and just make the drive from up north. Thanks for any insight.

 

Well first off the impact gun isn't gonna do anything to your RW wheels or lug nuts... that's what it's for. If I worked on your truck I'd use my gun too. I torque all my wheel by hand once it's on the ground (call me old school)

As for the rotors being warped, it's a very common problem on 2nd and 3rd gens... people lIke to ride the brakes a bit coming down the hill which causes them to get hot.
.. a simple resurface will fix that.

The dent and scratches on the wheel you should take up with the service manager. Not much else u can do but see if they can help u out there

 

If u want me to work on ur truck I will, I don't mind. I get pissed when I am used for warranty complaints.... call and ask for an appointment with me

 

Sorry for pissing you off. Moving on.

 

ok Im planning on switching rear bumper caps another member on here has silver painted caps and wants to trade me for my chrome bumper caps we both have 2016 crewmax both silver would we be able to just trade bumper caps or do we need to switch all the brackets as well? thanks in advance

 

I think u read it wrong.... vvvvvvv

Yup^^^^^^

That i dont know man, havent been into the bumper much.

 

Ha that's funny

 

If you live in mountainous area and have warped your OEM rotors, would you recommend a quality slotted/dimpled rotor like EBC (at least I think they are quality, could be wrong) in attempt to keep the rotors cooler and prevent warping?

 

Question: How do I remove the rear dome light assembly? I know how to take the cover off and replace the bulbs, but I need to remove and replace the assembly. Any help is appreciated.

 

This might be (probably a dumb question) do you have any idea why Toyota would put tow/haul in some Tundras and not all? Mine is a 2007 Double cab sr5 with 5.7 engine, auto with shifter on the floor. Should I use the manual auto or use "D" when towing a Travel Trailer?

 

The Tow/Haul function is part of the Tow Package, in the earlier years it was an option. Now it is standard, at least with the 5.7L.

 

Yes that would likely help. I am looking into stop tech and ebc for my front brakes. I tow in the mtns and could use something a touch better.

If there are no screws visible, it mostlikely a clip style. Pull down a bit on the passenger side and shine a flashlight up there. I believe there is a clip or twould on the passenger side and a few claws on the drivers side.... guessING tho. A claw doesn't release, it more of an l shape arm that holds on. The clips release, so you'll want to release the clips first then slife the claws out...

Your good man.... I believe u only get tow haul button when u have a tow package.

If I was towing on flat lands I'd probably leave it in d. But when u start driving through hills and the trans is hunting for gears or ahifting alot is when I'd click it over to manual. Control the trucks rpms with a good gear that produces enough power to pull it up the hill. Sometimes u can't go as fast as u want bit it's easier on fuel mileage and the trans to just stay in one gear and haul the trailer up the hill.... I kick o/d off on my first gen all the time towing. It cause it to stay in 4th and it just cruise up hills that way.

 

Thanks @LOTSOFTOYS !

 

Like a dummy it did forget to mention I have a mfg tow package. I like your suggestion on transmission. I will do that. thanks Lotsoftoys.

 

UPDATE: Thanks for your help LOTSOFTOYS. It is a clip style - only two clips hold (no claws) it along with plastic feet that go under the headliner. It was easy to get off when I pulled downward on it - actually pulled down when I was going to shine a flashlight as you suggested. Thanks again.

 

I'm doing a little research so that I can help my sister-in-law out with her 2003 or 04 Toyota Sequoia. She is a little difficult to deal with over the phone she can't tell me what year it is LOL. But she's having a problem with the VSC off trac off and the brake light being on. Recently her brother replaced the front rotors and pads. She is still having braking issues when descending a hill. I've told her numerous times she needs to use the proper gear when coming down and try to be limited on riding the brakes. It seems that they pulsate once they heat up leading me towards warped rotors, but it does go away once they've cooled so I'm wondering if there is some sort of issue with the rear brakes, causing the fronts to work too hard, or if it has more to do with those traction control issues. I had her go down and have it read at Pep Boys and it is throwing zero codes. just trying to narrow down the first place I should start looking. I did read somewhere about the fluid level causing some of these lights to come on so obviously I'll check that first. A number of things come to my mind like speed sensors and ABS sensors so I really don't know where to start. And I also don't want to just start throwing money at every single thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. She's a single mom and I'm just trying to keep her safe.

 

Pep boys is not able pull abs codes, very doubtful. Check the fluid level and make sure all wheel speed sensor connections look good. Short of that it needs to go to a dealer for proper diagnosis.

 

Ok thanks. On a sidenote what would be a good diagnostic tool to buy so that I can read these kinds of things. On my past vehicles are used to buy a superchip which also did code reading but obviously wasn't advanced enough to mess with ABS. I'm going to assume that something like this is too pricey. Are we looking at a tech II?

 

I have a 2001 toyota camry...just changed my rear brake pads and front driver side caliper...blended all th3 brakes and put in new brake fluids...checked the plastic under the brake pedals and it was fine...once in a while the brake lights stays on and I'm unsure why

 

cheap ecm code readers are everywhere. Much more expensive ones are able to pull abs codes

 

E brake? fluid level at min. line?

 

I'm thinking the E brake also..brake fluid is at max

 

Check the switch on ur ebrake lever