Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Well fuck. Might as well just do a custom 1 piece drive shaft. I'm outside the window and if I'm paying for a drive shaft I might as well have one that I want...

 

Not true^ if a customer complained of something with in warranty time line and it was not verified. But then is verified outside of warranty, you have a viable chance at getting it covered. I'd consult with ur dealer's service manager or shop foreman.

I thought so too^ but the tsb only said 3 and 36. I'll look again tho

 

The only way I know of and have seen is to mount a basket ontop of the cross bars...

 

Well it's funny you should say that. I just spoke to an adviser, whatever that's supposed to be and she looked up where I had come in and explained what was going on, and it recorded on a ticket (thank you!) so I'm gonna schedule a appointment to find out exactly what's going on. The dealership should cover it being when the complaint and concern where brought to there attention my truck was under warranty. Speaking on this clunking, I also read where axle wrap was causing some problems, something about the Tundras not getting a beefy enough suspension and that it was pulled off the Tacoma. Crazy thread I read, lotsoftoys thanks for your response i appreciate it. I will provide any info I get and what problems they think it is.

 

The copy that I have (I just dug it up) says 60 months or 60,000 miles. It's dated 30 Sept 2011.

 

Yeah an advisor is just the face of the service dept. The middle man between u and the tech. I hope they help u!

 

U are correct, just looked again. 5/60

 

Just curious how hard a body lift is to do? I am looking to replace my shocks to bilsteins and figured that maybe a lift also if it isn't too difficult. I have never done that so not sure what is all involved.
Thanks

 

A body lift isn't too hard... just one side at a time steering column and radiator shrouds can be a pain but if that's what u want go for it. A suspension lift is much better though

 

Thanks for the tip. I have looked into it a little further and may buy a full set of Bilstein shocks to see about installing those first and see if that gives me the look I want. Is there anything that I need to buy besides the shock sets themselves to install? The come with hardware to install but just want to be sure I get everything I need in one shot.

 

Are you just talking the billstein 5100s? Adjustable by raising the clip? That should be all you need, don't compress your oe spring too much, it'll ride rough. I'd recommend removing your fround coilovers and bringing them to someone with a spring compressor to do the shock swap. Figure out how much lift you want from the front shocks.

This is more of a leveling kit tho. Your initial idea of a body lift would give a much different look

 

Yes I am looking at the 5100's to replace the current ones. Can the front shocks be removed without taking out the coil springs? Or does it all come out as one unit and then need put back in? I have read the reviews on the Bilsteins and people say that they are all you need and help to give some lift as much as 2.5 inches in the front. I guess I would just like some lift and make the truck look level front to rear. I don't have to go the full lift limit but still want a nice ride.

 

Yeah the coilovers come out as an assembly. Then need disassembled to swap to 5100s. And yes the 5100s would be agreat way to level the truck

 

Thanks, appreciate it.

 

I stay on top on my service intervals pretty heavily but somehow skipped doing diff fluids at 30k. im at 41k now and plan on changing them sometime this week. Will the internals be affected? and how hard is it to do?

 

No you're fine. Not hard, can be messy though. Makesure you get new gaskets for the 2 diffs and tcase. Dont over tighten the tcase, aluminum. Cracks easily... drain them, spin the plug back in and fill them back up. Tons of videos im sure on how to do it.

 

New guy here, I have a 2016 dc 5.7 On a cold start it idles up at 1500 or 1600 for about a minute or so. Is it normal for such a high idle on a cold start?

-Jason

 

Sean, thanks for the reply. I searched and couldn't find the answer.

-Jason

 

That makes me feel better. I found the how to vids, should be a cake walk. But apparently auto parts stores around here don't carry the amount i need to do rear, t case and front dif at one time. So now i get to go on a Easter egg hunt for Mobil 1 75W gear oil. When you are saying gaskets, are you referring to o-rings maybe? I noticed all of the drain points are just plugs and the rear diff is a sealed unit in the back. Thanks for all the help.

 

Nope there are gaskets. Go to your dealer if u can and ask for the 6 driveline gaskets

 

2003 SR5 2WD. Trouble starting. Roll the key over to start, makes one loud clunk/click (like the starter teeth are catching on the flywheel, but not spinning it) and then nothing. Does this all the time, starts OCCASIONALLY in the morning (when the starter(?) is cold). Lifted the manifold and dug out the old starter and replaced with new, dropped a new battery in, and replaced the alternator 2 months back. Still not starting. Checked the relay, pretty sure it's good. Thinking possibly the ignition switch?? Please, anything helps. Really tired of driving this POS Diesel F250 around.....
@LOTSOFTOYS

 

Hmmmmm most of the time its the starter. The starter plunges but doesnt spin. You need to see if proper voltage is making it to the starter. Good connections on the batter and starter? Sucks its under the intake....

 

heY I got 07 that makes a pop when it downshifts..sonunds like it is around the rear area. I checked the u joints,they are good...any suggestions? thks.

 

Ok so I just read a thread on Tundratalknet about the problem involving the drive shaft clunk from behind that made my head spin.... whoosh! Also my mom had that clunk feeling on her 2005 Sr5, and ive read that some 14's are experiencing problems. I'm taking my truck to where I bought it and see what they can do. It was documented in February 2012 when I brought my Tundra in concerned about this problem, so hopefully they will cover what needs to be done. Also will be looking into the charcoal canister fiasco involving certain Tundras, this TSB write up is on Tundra Headquarters. Has to do with water intrusion, and poor design. I have read where some Toyota dealerships are saying it's the owner overfilling there tank and fuel is getting down and damaging the filter. I will post up when everything is done or not, and let everyone know. I am surprised that I have not heard more about these issues on this forum. One quick thing, I did read about slip yoke almost dry and needing grease. Supposedly the 2wd does not have any grease fittings. Stay tuned

 

Lifted?

 

2.5" leveling kit, nothing in back. Gonna be going to 6112's in front and 5100's in back. I don't know if I will even need a block in back . Suggestions welcome definitely.

 

I'd check the springs and the u bolts for sure... I've seen them be loose and the axle moves all over the place. Normally is with a block style lift though....

 

Roger that

 

Was wondering what type of spark plugs you would recommend? Research suggests NGK Iridiums. I did find one truck site suggest E3 DiamondFire Electrode on top. Bosch also makes an Iridium plug. I have not checked what is in the truck yet. Not having any performance issues, but figured with 97,000 miles it may be time to change them.
Thanks