Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Smacked it with my snow brush on accident

 

This is what my techstream shows. Gonna upload a video of what is turning on and shutting the truck down. Nevermind. Can't upload the video as it's an mp4 format.

 

That must be one heck of a heavy duty snow brush.

 

Your immobilizer says unset?

 

It always does when the key is inserted. It goes to set when the key is removed. It will go to set after the truck has been running a minute or so also. The truck wasn't running in those pictures just the key was on.

 

Mine is "set" when the key is in the ignition.

 

Mine has been to unset ever since I've had a code scanner to put on it then it goes to set. Maybe it's something that the dealership needs to look at.

 

I found what I think is the perfect tool to remove the master cylinder screen. One of those tools used to pry open paint cans. The hook just fits underneath the filter if you place it in the slot at the rear or front of the MC. Once hooked, a gentle pull upwards unlatches the filter.

 

That's a good idea! Never thought of that.

 

Thinking of it wasn't the problem. Finding it was. One of those tools that you don't know of you put it with the screwdriver, in with the small pullers, with the punches since that's where my Snap on seal puller is or in the bottom of the house painting box. It was with the paint junk.

 

OK guys, after doing some research, I believe my ECM may be what is causing the issues with my truck starting then cutting off. How hard is it to get the ECM synced with all the other modules after replacement? I can find a used one with the same part number and flashed with my VIN. I'd like to get it soon but don't know if that's gonna give me more trouble or not.

 

I apologize if this isn’t the right place for this question…

2011 tundra rock warrior. 129,000 miles. All stock motor parts.

*Replaced timing chain tensioners
*fixed valley coolant leak
*replaced spark plugs and plug seals

Now I’m getting surging at acceleration as well as lack of power. Any idea what might be causing this? Engine idles great and seems to otherwise run smooth.

 

My question is about a 2013 Tundra.
Can someone tell me what these two parts are?
The first one is key fob shaped with a button. It's stuck to the inside of the windshield by the rear-view mirror.


The second object is a black plastic square mounted on the passenger side of the roof.

Thank you in advance.

 

The keyfob looking thing is part of a security and possibly remote start system. If you didn't get the key fobs, a good car security system dealer can help you out. The other is the XM satellite radio antenna.

 

You will need Techstream to pull codes and read the data stream to diag this issue properly.

I'm curious why you replaced the timing chain at only 129,000 miles?

 

@Ruggybuggy - After watching endless videos that show the engine compartment, I realized that I had the VVT plugs on bank 2 switched with each other. As soon as I swapped them back to where they belonged, the surging and low power problem was fixed!

I only replaced the tensioners, and not any of the chains. The driver side chain was slapping pretty hard from the tensioner not actuating like it should and I was worried it was going to jump timing or worse...next is trying to figure out some strange engine noises at 2000+ rpm.

Thanks for your response anyways!

 

Nice, yes it's a common mistake. The connectors are the same and interchangeable.

Good that you never replaced the chains. Toyota uses paint marks on the chains and if you can still see the marks, the chain is still good. I've seen some high mileage engines and could still see the paint marks.

 

A charging question.

I picked up one of the battery/charging system testers. It works OK on an F-150 I'm babysitting, but claims that the battery (nearly new) on the Tundra is on its last legs.

The charging voltage is 13.4 to 13.5. I know Tundras can't handle an AGM battery without the GM diode, but should the diode be used on a standard battery to keep the battery charged to full specifications?

 

Following.....I've never heard of anyone using a diode with a standard battery.

 

My truck recently started making a clunking noise whenever I put it into drive or reverse. I noticed it only does it after sitting for a while like when I go to work in the morning. I greased all the u joints but its still making the noise. The truck only has 85k miles on it.
I took a video of the noise here.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QcVJ3DVybO0

 

Take the complete driveshaft down and check for a stiff U joint by moving it through it's full range of motion. Also spin the center support bearing while you have it out.

 

Hmm what do you mean by spring it?

 

Guessing he meant “spin it”

 

Thanks, yes "spin" it. Stupid auto correct.

 

Haha no worries, that makes more sense. Thanks I'll try that out. Started doing it after I took it offroad some 200 miles. Front driveshaft seems fine though. Hope I didn't break anything

 

Just a thought, check the bracket on the center support bearing for rocks.

 

I'll be taking it down to look at it this weekend. Crawled under the truck earlier to check but didn't notice anything obvious. I'll update y'all later.

 

Lately I’ve noticed that when driving my truck first thing in the morning (after truck has sat all night and engine is cold), that if I punch into it the CEL will flash and if I let off the gas it’ll go away or if I stay punching into it it will become solid. I’ve gotten a p0301 code, so misfire detected. I replaced the plug and coil pack. Next time I tried to replicate it I got a P0307 code, replaced that plug and coil pack, and then when still trying to replicate it I got a p0302 code. I just replaced this plug and coil pack as well.

I tried replicating it again this morning and couldn’t. So my question is could those items really have all gone bad, or is there something I’m missing?

I was only able to make it misfire when the engine was ice cold and when going WOT. Is there something else I should be worried about? I’m only able to test it to see if I can make it happen after the engine is completely cooled down and usually only within the first 5 mins of driving because after that it seems to be up to temp and no issues.

 

Replace all the spark plugs and not one at a time. Missfire codes are usually just a plug issue. Use NGK or Denso plugs. How long have the old plugs been in the truck? Also when you replaced the coils did you use Toyota coils? Only buy from a Toyota dealership or from Toyota online to avoid counterfeit parts. The aftermarket coils are troublesome and can cause misfire codes. Be sure to use dielectric grease.