ARB Summit Bumper is awesome but a pain to install

Can you post pics of the hinged cover please and your hawse fairlead? Did you have to use the arb spacer kit to fit the hawse?

 

I think I confused myself on the "control box cover" when I read it in haste...I dont have a control box cover on mine, mainly because the Smitybilt control box sits above the bumper a bit.

 

I'll snap some pics in the AM.

No spacer for the hawse that I used.

 

Yeah talking about the cover plate that bolts in here. What hawse you running?

 

Not sure what gets OP more man points. Installing stuff in the frozen ice/snow or using a tractor to lift it. All balls either way!

 

Good looking ARB bumper.

so if I went with that bumper I would need to replace my ome coils from 612 to 613 correct?

 

It would be ideal if you don't want to lose much vertical height, yes. especially if you are adding a winch. I'm running factory springs and I lost 1.5" of lift with bilsteins 5100s on top setting.. gonna get the full ome nitro kit soon.

 

I have the OME with 612 currently. If I do not end u trading this one in on a 2022 then the ARB bumper might be my next addition.

 

@Tundra18overland

 

@hefemi

Here is the bracket I made.

 

The license plate holder and flip up option should have been included w your ARB bumper.

 

Anyone successfully running the Pro grill with TSS sensor that is behind the faux cover plate beneath the "TOYOTA" badge?



I'm thinking of switching from my SR5 grill that has the large Toyota emblem badge dead center. My grill has the TSS sensor higher than the Pro. I'm concerned the Pro won't work as it "appears" the ARB bumper might almost cover the TSS sensor.

SR5 grill with higher mounted TSS sensor.

 

According to ARB, the TRD PRO grille TSS sensor location does not work with the Summit bar. Based on the pictures this makes sense, as the TRD PRO grille has the sensor a few inches lower which means the top of the Summit bumper could interfere.

Some of the other bumpers out there do work the TRD PRO grille.

 

@pman9003 Thank you very much for this information! Think I'll just go ahead and try the plasti-dip for existing grill surround/bulge.

 

Does the Tundra ARB have antenna mounting points on top like the Aussie ARBs?

 

Doesn't look like it has the top ones. There may still be locations out towards the ends of the wings.

 

It does not

 

Bummer. I just got one of those huge Aussie style off-road antennas and would like a bumper mounting point in the future. Could probably still make it work though.

 

Nothing a drill and a tap couldn't get you!

 

FWIW, I've considered adding antenna mounts to mine, as they are currently on the hood lip. I've also got fender mounts for them (NMO mounts), but I may move to the bumper yet.

I can say that adding a hi-lift mount is easy enough and solid; I used a few wraps of exterior Tesa Tape to try to protect the Integrit powder coat from the clamps; we'll find out how it held up in a few weeks when we get home (it will have ~8k miles on it by then).

Also, adding additional lighting over what is expected is pretty easy as well. I added info to my build thread, but here's the current set up


I'm running the Intensity Solis lights (both spot) in their intended location; Diode Dynamics SS3 Max (round housing, yellow SAE fog) in place of the ARB fog lights using Paranoid Fabrication mounts (SUPER easy and very solid); Diode Dynamics SS3 Max (round housing, white SAE driving) outboard of the uprights, these are mounted via a M8 nutsert installed into the bumper; and finally Diode Dynamics SSC2 Pro (white SAE driving) using Paranoid Fabrication mounts (wrapped in matte black vinyl instead of painting them).

Other than the fog lights, all of the bumper lights are wired to one activation switch on the Switch Pros (the ARB's get their power direct from a Blue Sea block, but are triggered from the Switch Pros). I need to angle the SS3 driving lights out slightly, but it provides a fairly narrow driving beam to the sides of the road (SSC2), in place of standard high beams (SS3 Max Driving), and insane spot beam (ARB Solis) at the push of one button.

 

new poster here. had a Summit bar installed this past March and looking back I probably should have replaced the grill and headlamps before hand. Any one have any input on this?

 

Pics please.

 

Ok...this may be an obvious question, but here goes. How do I adapt the stock pigtail to the ARB fog lights for the bumper? I don't want to cut up the stock wiring, but am not sure what sort of adapters I need.

 

What’s up with the turn/marker lights amber and white? Would prefer they were amber only.

 

What connectors are on the ARB fogs (I never even opened my ARB fog light box)? You could buy some H11 socket pigtails on Amazon and make a short conversion harness

The outer vertical strip of the ARB turn/DRL is white, the majority of it is amber for the turn signal. I've seen people run just the amber section as DRL and leave the white disconnected, or wire a relay so the amber is DRL and flashes off for the turn signal

 

Picking up my bumper tomorrow and asking for clarification:

1. So these come with ARB supplied fog lights (and you do not reuse the OEM fogs)? If ARB does give me new fogs are they halogen or led?

2. What tool did you guys use to do the "curved" cut to the side plastics?

 

I'm fairly certain ARB bumpers are set up to reuse your OEM fogs...now is a time to update/upgrade those...they'll fit nonetheless but the OEM fogs are turds...

I don't have an ARB front bumper but if you used some tun snips or a coping saw you could cut very neatly and precise...or a hot wire if you're into those...

 

The bumper will come with ARB's halogen fog lights as well as the full relay/harness if your truck doesn't have fog light wiring. There is an adapter in the fog light box (you'll see what I mean when you get everything unpacked) that the directions state are for OEM 2014+ fog lights. Regardless of this, I would agree, you may as well order up whatever replacement fogs you're planning on going with ahead of time. I ordered brackets from Paranoid Fabrications to have my Diode Dynamics SS3's fit right in. For what it's worth, the SS3s also fit, albeit not nearly as solidly, to the ARB "OEM Toyota" adapter.

I cut the plastics under the headlight (as well as the grille) with a jig saw w/ plastic blade. Ideally i would have preferred a smaller/more nimble air powered reciprocating saw, but my (don't judge me for this) Black & Decker 20v jig-saw has turned into my go-to for large-scale plastics cutting (I've gone through a lot of 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2" ABS for various projects on the truck). Measure three times, make your marks, measure again, and then go for it knowing that it's just plastic and can be replaced

 

^ Thanks guys for the advice. Just got it unloaded last night. Bumper sure doesn't seem like it is 200# - which is good I guess.

Now I just need to get my trans. cooler installed and my OEM LED head lights delivered and installed.

No way was I gonna wait for Toyota to figure out the headlight recall and then have them say "Bam! Aftermarket winch bumper that is a super pain in the ass to take off and put back on - $500 labor! How's that for a recall fix?" I'll just address it all and be done with it.