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Anyone Replacing Their Steering Rack Bushings w/ 35's?

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by InfernoPRO, Feb 1, 2020.

  1. Feb 1, 2020 at 1:16 PM
    #1
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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    I went in to get my truck aligned recently and the shop said they couldn't align it because my steering rack bushings were too worn out. They said Toyota does not sell just the bushings and they would have to replace the whole steering rack for $1200. I said eff that since I quickly found aftermarket bushings for $55.

    Coachbuilder does sell the Energy Suspension bushing kit. After looking into it more he recommends upgrading to the polyurethane bushings if you run tires 35" or larger. Like me I bet most people aren't even looking into this. I have been on 35" tires for 45,000 miles of my 65,000 on my 2015. I have never really noticed an issue until the alignment shop brought this up.

    Well I needed to replace these and I didn't find much information out there on the install so I hope this helps. Energy Suspension has a short install sheet, but it is for 2wd and not too helpful.
    IMG_6037.jpg

    You will need:

    Jack and stands
    10-19mm socket set and wrenches
    torque wrench
    steel chisel set
    hammer
    short pry bar
    ratcheting strap
    the right sized socket (see below, I used a 7/8" impact)
    grease
    The kit https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify.com/products/tundra-2007-power-steering-rack-poly-bushing-kit

    Optional:
    pickle fork with prongs over 1-1/4" apart
    steel or wood wedge
    brake cleaner
    PB Blaster

    Step 1:
    Set parking brake on flat surface. Jack up truck and take off driver side tire. I did not take off my passenger tire and left it on the ground. This allowed me to put the steering back together and get to the same alignment. You should still get your truck aligned after the install, but this gave me a good enough alignment to avoid a shop till the following weekend.

    Step 2:
    Remove any skid plates under the engine and sway bar.

    Step 3:
    Remove the bolt on the steering intermediate shaft assembly and place a mark on the shaft for the current alignment. This is the bolt with 26 ft-lb torque setting in the above diagram. If you have 2wd this bolt is easy to get to. If you have 4wd like me it gets tricky with the diff in the way. Get some brake cleaner and spray the shaft clean. Rotate your steering wheel until the bolt head faces towards the wheel well as seen in the picture. Remove the bolt with a socket extension. Reach your hand from under the truck to grab the steering wheel links and wiggle it off the spline. You can see the factory blue line and the brown lines I added to the shaft. Once you wiggle the link off the splines you will see the factory blue alignment marks on both ends making it easier to reassemble.

    IMG_6040.jpg

    Step 4:
    Remove the tie rods ends off the spindles. Easier if both tires are off, but I took the passenger tie rod off from under the truck for the reason listed above.

    Step 5:
    Remove all the steering fluid line brackets from the steering rack. Take a picture of how these go back together. There should be two brackets attached to the rack and 2 additional clamps for the lines. These lines will be in and out of your way during the rest of the install, but at least now you can push them around more easily.

    Step 6:
    Remove the two main steering rack bolts from the bottom of the cross member. You need a 19mm wrench to hold the top nut while you loosen the bottom bolt. If you have PB Blaster or similar product, use them on these bolts. I broke 2 sockets removing these suckers.

    Step 7:
    Now the steering rack should be free to move around. You have about 4" of movement in each direction, not much, but just enough to get the job done. Start with the passenger side. Move the steering rack towards the front and driver side of the engine bay. Wrap a ratcheting strap around the steering rack and use it to hold the rack as far forward and center as you can get it. You will be banging on this rack for a few hours so get it in a secure spot.

    Step 8:
    Remove the bottom bushing. Take your hammer and chisel to work your way around the steel lip between the bushing and the steering rack. Slowly work your way around the bushing hammering a gap into the lip and prying it down. Once the gap becomes too great for your chisel, use your pry bar to hammer down the rest of the bushing. You will need to do this until the bushing is 1/4" way out before the whole piece will fall out.

    IMG_6043.jpg IMG_6044.jpg IMG_6046.jpg IMG_6047.jpg IMG_6048.jpg

    Step 9:
    Punch out the top bushing. If you just hammer on the inner metal ring, the bushing will never come out. This is where I used a 7/8" impact socket to punch out the bushing. You need a socket that can fit up the hole and allow you to only hammer on the outer metal ring. This should pop out quick if you are doing it right.

    Step 10:
    Insert the new polyurethane bushings and metal sleeve. Apply grease on the bushing and shaft to fit it in. It will get fully compressed in once you bolt it back together.

    Step 11:
    Move on to the driver side. There is less room to work on this side, but it should be quicker since you know what your doing now. Move the rack towards the passenger side and strap it as far forward as possible Repeat steps 8-10.

    IMG_6049.jpg IMG_6050.jpg

    Step 12:
    Install the bolt back into the rack and cross member. Torque to 89 ft-lbs. Make sure the steel caps for the new bushings are aligned correctly before you tighten them down.

    Step 13:
    Reattach your steering fluid line brackets.

    Step 14:
    Attach your passenger side tie rod end to the tire still on the ground. You may have to push the tie rod ends into the steer rack as they may have shifted during the install.

    Step 15:
    Now your steering rack is fixed and the tie rod is back at your original alignment. Reattach the steering wheel link to the intermediate shaft assembly. Reach under the truck to slide the links back on the truck as you look from the wheel well to make sure your marks are aligned. Attach the bolt.

    Step 16:
    Attach your driver side tie rod.

    Step 17:
    Reinstall or just throw away your sway bar. Reinstall your skid.

    Step 18:
    Reinstall your tire and torque to 110 ft-lbs.

    Step 19:
    Enjoy a beer, you just saved yourself $1150.

    Notes: I installed this over the course of 3 partial days of work. The first 2 days were figuring out how to set everything up and get the first bottom bushing off the passenger side. The driver side took me 2 hours. Plan for a full two day weekend. My hopes are this write up will save you the time and frustration I had.
     
    Mountun Goat, TheBeast, DZ_ and 12 others like this.
  2. Feb 1, 2020 at 1:22 PM
    #2
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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  3. Feb 1, 2020 at 1:35 PM
    #3
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 New Member

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    Great info!!! Changing bushings can be a pain, it took me 16 hrs/ 2 days to replace every bushing on my 95 f250 including body mounts. This kind of info can be invaluable and a real time saver! Kudos to you.

    Edit: this should be stickied imo
     
  4. Feb 1, 2020 at 3:35 PM
    #4
    joonbug

    joonbug bacon

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    Nice Scott! This will come in handy when mines breaks in the desert and I don’t have @osidepunker with me. And I have internet service to look this up. And I can get the SoCal Shenanigans to bring me a new rack. And @Pinay is there to lend me some jack stands. And Warren helps me with the fix. :thumbsup:
     
    TheBeast, Sunnier, GodlessPro and 7 others like this.
  5. Feb 1, 2020 at 3:39 PM
    #5
    Pinay

    Pinay New Member

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    Even if I wasn’t there @joonbug I’d haul tail as soon as I find out you need help and find you!!

    Ima bring @osidepunker and sit in my chair and watch y’all wrench! :)
     
  6. Feb 1, 2020 at 3:53 PM
    #6
    Leo's first

    Leo's first TRUCK GANG

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    Great write up
    Thanks Scott
     
    InfernoPRO [OP] and Pinay like this.
  7. Feb 1, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #7
    Tundra_361

    Tundra_361 New Member

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    Sub’d :thumbsup::thumbsup: thanks
     
    InfernoPRO [OP] likes this.
  8. Feb 3, 2020 at 5:43 AM
    #8
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Nice write up! Glad you tackled this on your own and posted the information for everyone else.

    IMO its easier to remove the rack and swap the bushings on the bench. Drop the diff, pull the rack, swap bushings, re-install everything. Its about a 4-6 hour job doing it that way.

    But there always more than one way to skin a cat LOL
     
    Twise, Sunnier, joonbug and 2 others like this.
  9. Feb 3, 2020 at 7:07 AM
    #9
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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    I did see you recommended that in one of the links I posted above. My problem was were you said dropping the diff is a two man job. No way is my wife helping me do that lol. I think if I re did this job I could get it done in 6-8 hours. But you are right about swapping the bushings on a bench.
     
    GodlessPro and osidepunker like this.
  10. Feb 3, 2020 at 7:09 AM
    #10
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    yeah thats true. The diff is very heavy and hard to do by yourself
     
    GodlessPro likes this.
  11. Jul 22, 2020 at 7:39 PM
    #11
    WaipioTUNDRA

    WaipioTUNDRA New Member

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    Looking at doing this job , but I have a 7" bds lift ... is your truck lifted ?? Looking like the drop bracket might block the bushing bolts from coming all tge way out ??
     
    InfernoPRO [OP] likes this.
  12. Jul 22, 2020 at 7:46 PM
    #12
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    It's a PITA already seems like your gonna have to drop the bracket to access what little room there is to even start.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jul 22, 2020 at 8:02 PM
    #13
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    Air tools definitely makes this job easier, I did it all just with a hammer and diy tire iron chisel and diy pickle fork wrench. Lots of hammer time!

    [​IMG]
     
    fytedapowr, Ely010606 and TheBeast like this.
  14. Jul 22, 2020 at 8:52 PM
    #14
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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    I have a 3” lift. Not sure how this would work with a bracket lift. If you can’t get the bushing bolt out than you are already SOL. If you can, than just make sure the bracket doesn’t extend in front of the body cross mount or else you won’t get to the bushings.
     
  15. Jul 22, 2020 at 8:58 PM
    #15
    WaipioTUNDRA

    WaipioTUNDRA New Member

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    Damn its hard to tell but it looks like I'll have to unbolt more shit to get the bolts out ... wondering if anyone else has done it this way with the bds 7"

    20200722_175437.jpg
    20200722_175428.jpg
     
  16. Jul 22, 2020 at 9:16 PM
    #16
    WaipioTUNDRA

    WaipioTUNDRA New Member

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    I thought I read somewhere that the @Coachbuilder1 guy knows of a way to get it done ? Its so funny how toyota took what was a simple job and made it difficult ... i thought we progress as humans
     
  17. Jul 22, 2020 at 9:17 PM
    #17
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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    You can try taking the bolts off now and see if you want to invest the time for another day.

    Once you take the nut off from the top and the rack is free to move the bolt may angle forward and slide out.
     
  18. Jul 22, 2020 at 9:24 PM
    #18
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    Easy fix angle grind that drop bracket so you can get access to the bolt head.

    Screenshot_20200723-072357_Firefox.jpg
     
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  19. Jul 22, 2020 at 9:28 PM
    #19
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    If i recall toyota's simple fix for bad bushings is to replace the whole rack.

    Screenshot_20200723-072805_Firefox.jpg
     
  20. Jul 23, 2020 at 5:42 PM
    #20
    WaipioTUNDRA

    WaipioTUNDRA New Member

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    Cool man , love your positive hope ... you think the rack will lift high enough to be able to weasel it out ?
     
  21. Jul 23, 2020 at 7:20 PM
    #21
    InfernoPRO

    InfernoPRO [OP] New Member

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    This whole project is about having just enough room to make it happen. You could probably lift it enough to angle them out
     
  22. Jul 24, 2020 at 5:33 PM
    #22
    chugs

    chugs New Member

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    If that doesn't work then....release the kraken grinder

    Screenshot_20200725-033213_Firefox.jpg
     
  23. Jul 24, 2020 at 5:41 PM
    #23
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    Oh yes I want to do this! Thanks for putting together a one stop shop of info!
     
    InfernoPRO [OP] likes this.
  24. Jul 28, 2020 at 2:39 PM
    #24
    fytedapowr

    fytedapowr New Member

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    I finally did this thanks to the write up top and can confirm it is possible, but only with the right proportions of cursing, willpower, and booze. The pickle fork makes a ton of difference when working in that tiny area. I got one side completed with hammer and chisel, but it took far far longer.

    Thanks OP
     
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  25. Jul 31, 2020 at 10:07 PM
    #25
    WaipioTUNDRA

    WaipioTUNDRA New Member

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    Yeah I have tools and if I don't no problem buying them ... I have kids so I try to keep the cursing down
     
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