Amateur Radio (Icom 7000) Installation Gen 3 Tundra 2022+

Hello,

I tried to blow some dust of a 2016 thread but it's been a while. Maybe someone can provide some input for us Gen 3 owners with similar rigs. I am in the planning phase and below are my ideas so far.

I am Installing an Icom 7000 in a 2024 CrewMax Limited. I intend to only operate 70cm and 2m when mobile and keep the HF for parked Buddipole uses. Therefore no HF antenna or controller. I am currently looking at mounting the antenna on the cab, drill-through NMO, coax down the B pillar. Please if anyone has photos with the headliner down on a Gen 3 that would help A LOT. The main rig under the driver seat (I still need to measure). I plan the control head, mic and speaker to the left top of the 14" infotainment screen on a RubiGrid dash mount onto their tripod adapter that will easily fit the MB-105 mounting bracket from Icom.

Thoughts and advice are appreciated.

Link to the RubiGrid dash mount -
https://www.bulletpointmountingsolu...nt-phone-device-holder?variant=40800911097971


73, de W5CSM

 

I know it's not what you asked for, but I'll snap some better photos next time we do one. This is an APX remote head on the dash. Radio, power distribution, emergency lights/siren controller are all under the rear seat.

 

stuckthrottle,

Very nice use of the space. The biggest help I can get from other installations is how to access the headliner, where it is best to drill through for the NMO type antenna mount and the routing of power.

I am now confident on the control head installation as in the normal field of view is preferred to gazing down. I've run both ways and I expect the RubiGrid dash mount to work well.

I am in need of measuring for the under driver seat option and the main unit is 3 1/4" tall x 8" deep including RF connectors x 7 1/4" wide. Under my rear seats are not currently an option as they are enclosed and may lend to overheating.

I'd love to have any photos you can dig up from old installs or any new ones as well. I will share all of my photos and a YouTube channel link to the video when I am finished.

Thanks for sharing,

Dave - TXW5CSM

 

No wig wags? I
May have seen your Tundra before….

 

This link might give you some ideas on mounting your antenna and running your coax cable:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1794-blackout-my-1st-tundra.114603/#post-2959111

 

While not a direct answer to the headliner question both @PapaDave418 and @KroppDuster detailed ham/GMRS installs in their respective build threads that are good resources.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/off-road-build-with-diy-and-production-mods-on-37’s.105476/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/dusters-double-cab-build-the-daily-do-it-all.110886/

 

How much amperage do those ham radios draw? Read other forums people having issues as to not having enought power supplied at idle.

 

Black widow TRD,
NickBrewer,
BabyMoose,
and
pwpblue,

Thanks for the input The radio pulls 30 amps max on transmit of 100 watts on HF at a 100% duty cycle (like FM). That (idle amperage) is something to consider and I will test once I get it installed. Since the vast majority of my use of this radio is 50 watts or less on 440 MHz and 144 MHz, they should do well.

Well, it's only a lot of reading if you do it :^D

 

Let us know how it turns out! I'm still planning my install for the eventual Yaesu FTM-400 or 500

 

Thank you @TXW5CSM

 

The beginning steps are afoot,

The 1/4" -20 camera adapter will perfectly for the Icom part MB-105 which holds the control head. I will post photos and maybe a YouTube video as progress is made. Another update, it appears that the main radio body will fit just fine under the driver seat and still allow for full range of motion as well as relatively easy access to the SO-239 connector for any HF operation using the Buddipole.



I love it when a plan comes together.

 

Update with Photos,

More photos available upon request.

I used the longer 13 cm long arm used on the left for the Icom 7000 radio control head. Nice and solid, I am very hopeful that the quality will hold up over time. Some RAM mount styled devices don't last well. However, based on initial impressions, this item is here to survive the life of the truck.



I placed the Icom provided mic holder/hook below the vent and used 3M Dual Lock (tm) between the lower vent and the mic holder/hook.


The view across the dash at the 1/4" -20 camera adapter with 20mm ball to attach the Icom MB-105 mount. The spacing from the 14" infotainment screen, the vent, and driving controls are perfect for me.



additional view, see comment above.


The right side phone holder is great for the passenger to watch videos etc. I can also swing this out and in front of the infotainment screen if I want to live stream or if someone calls me on a video call. NOTE: when moving these types of mounts from one position to another, loosen the thumb screws, adjust, then re-tighten (not while driving). If you force the balls and clamps without loosening them, you will seriously reduce their service life.


A look at the multi-purpose Command hook microphone hook on the overhead controls. I use this when temporarily storing the microphone when in a conversation. I find this much more convenient that using the lower hook by the vent and still ensures that I don't accidentally key the radio at the same time. I again, substitute the command strip adhesive with the 3M Dual Lock (tm) between both surfaces.


Here's a nice close up view.



That's all for now. More when the budget allows.

73 from the Heart of Texas

 

Ham Radio and Antenna Mounting Options for the 2022 Tundra


did my install a while back, I just went with the fender mount. instead of ICS fab I bought the bulletpoint mounting tray. Mounted the control head on the top and the radio body under the drivers side seat. the speaker had a piece of velcro and I stuck it under the seat too.

 

vorkuta775,

Thanks for the input. I've fit checked all items under the driver seat and am going with that option. Did you drill down through the cab to attach the mount or did you choose another option? My external speaker placement is likely to be on top of the RubiGrid grate as the control head has a speaker out socket. This will give me sound from both under the seat as well as on the dash.
For antenna placement, I am still a fearless driller of roofs. I am hoping to find a video or some photos showing the headliner dropped so I can better plan for the dreaded drill through NMO mount.

Thanks again and 73

 

I did not drill into the roof for a NMO mount because I knew i wanted to get a camper, and or roof rack at some point. so I went with the fender mount, as for the radio body, I just used a small 1/4 inch piece of aluminum bar stock and used one of the seat bolts as a mount. works. the coax is ran under the carpet and plastic panels through the firewall onto the driver side fender panel. and I just came back from a 1800 mile road trip with 90mph winds and insane weather, fender mount held, never got loose once, I'm also using a heavier, high gain dual band antenna. hope that helps man! 73s! you ever do mobile HF work?

 

vorkuta775,

My last installation in my F-150 (links below) was a full 2M, 70cm, and HF installation. I almost never used the HF mobile and when I did, I was stationary. For this installation, I've elected to go for the 2M, 70cm only and save the HF for when I want to put up the Buddipole or other far more efficient antenna. The High Sierra Sidekick and TurboTuner worked very well, it is just not practical for me right now. I can always add them later... hi hi.

I totally understand the fender mount and in fact used a 102" steel whip in one with a Z100 autotuner as my first HF installation. Hey, if you could share some photos of the 1/4" bar stock and how you put the puzzle together, that would be very helpful. I expect that my coax run will "simply" be from under the driver seat, up the B pillar and up to the drilled through NMO mount. I am just guessing until I get the headliner down a bit in order to assess what all is going on up there. Oh, also, yes, before anyone asks, out of an abundance of caution, I will do my best to keep RF away from and if needed, additionally shielded from side curtain air bags. I am sure that there's nothing like keying up your radio and initiating a small inflation charge in your vehicle. If that even is a thing. Well... maybe a thread for another day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BF2ijEWFGk&ab_channel=TXW5CSM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZTzJFbX1Eo&ab_channel=TXW5CSM

Thanks again for the input. Together we all learn and like the YouTube channel says...

Knowledge is only power, when it is shared.

 

Is anyone aware of a fitted bracket for under the Driver seat that bolts onto any of the seat mounting bolts? I've seen one by Bracketeer that can fit the front or rear bolts and goes across that I can build off of if needed. My preference is to avoid complicating this with more parts. I am not afraid to drill through the cab but the purpose is just to keep the radio body in place.

 

Found a good step by step video to help when I mount the antenna. Sharing for others.

2022+ Tundra Gen 3 Headliner drop. Remove headliner etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4KW8vu2usw&ab_channel=AlexR&I

 

Purchase cost expectations/plan

NOTE: I've decided to use a 1/4" thick piece of ABS plastic under the carpet and mount the radio mount to it through the carpet.

 

Desert does it usually has under the seat mounts that’re for air compressors you could retrofit. If you change your mind about the plastic

edit: just looked and they only have the bracketeer style mount so far

 

dittothat,

Thanks for the idea. I had looked at them as an option but they don't currently have one specifically for the 2022+ Gen 3s. They do have a Multi-Mount Panel (MMP) that fits to the front or rear seat mounts. I could run metal straps or mold the ABS plastic to mount to that. You've got me thinking again. I think for now, due to the cost of the MMP, I will run for the ABS under the carpet mount initially and keep this as an additional option or alternate path if needed.

 

Sounds good! Hope it works out. Keep us posted

 

What I did with my Saturday. So far, so good.


Yep, that will be the spot for the NMO mount hole in a nice new truck. #Ham Radio



Oh the Humanity!!!!!!


A view from the underside with the slug (hole) on the newspaper. Hint - always use something other than the headliner to catch any debris.


A view from the underside.


A nice cap for those events where parking garages and drive throughs are not antenna friendly.



A fold over antenna is always nice for parking garages and drive throughs that are a bit more hospitable.


Route the coax BEHIND the airbag on the B pillar.


The ABS plastic sheet that I used under the driver seat to mount the Main Radio. A bit of cutting but worked very well.



I decided to countersink the screws from the underside.


A flat washer on top of the mount and a nylock nut kept everything secure after sandwiching the carpet between the ABS plastic and the rig mount. This is a view from the open door side.


A view from the front. Nothing rubs the rig. I did need to zip strip a few items a little more securely but double checked all of the movements of the seat and nothing rubs.


A view from the rear, ready to run the power and antenna lines.

 

aaaaaaand on Sunday.

On the passenger side, under the glove box there is a nicely available pass through point for the power. Note, the other side of this is below, and to the rear of the battery under the hood. This is a TIGHT fit and required some lubrication. I finished it off on the other side with loom and a zip strip for good measure.



Remove the battery and associated bracketry and this is easily visible. Note - the upper pass through area is also available but MUCH harder to access from the cab side of the firewall. The choice is yours.


Routing of the power from the passenger side and the Control head to main body of the IC-7000. I did ulimately elect a higher routing away from potential foot pressure.

 

The Zombie Lights button (after this only addressed as the "main power button") is the power button for the rig that is wired to the battery. I used a fused 30 amp relay and another fused 3 amp switch circuit to the button below.



All wiring is straight forward relay installation with one exception. I wanted to be able to also power the backlight function on the main power button. This way it will better match all other buttons in the panel. The loser right dummy block in the panel has this plug available for what I assume is the normal feature or function that my model does not have. The TAN wire is a switched 12 volt circuit with the taillights and headlights. I assume this is to run the backlighting on the normal button.

Now for the hack work. I took a paperclip and slowly made it thinner (file/Dremel) until it fit nicely into the socket. I put two layers of shrink tubing onto a butt splice, three layers of electrical tape, and zip strips to hold it together from all angles.



It's sort of like me, it ain't pretty but it is safe and it works. I just don't like trashing part of a factory wiring harness.



The fused relay location inside the driver side of the dash panel.



The battery compartment wiring completed.



The view from the front, final wire routing of the control head remote wiring.



Some slight wire exposure on the control head cable but placing it under the carpet puts it against the ABS plastic. You caould go either way I guess.



Viewed from the rear, yes I will shorten the coax but wanted to get this done. OH, the HF connection on the rig has the BNC Female adapter ready to attach to the Buddipole whenever I want to use HF stationary. I've just found that mobile HF is just not for me and all of the additional work to install the High Sierra Sidekick again is not in the plan for now.




The control head and speaker on the RubiGrid mounting system. I used 3M Dual Lock so if I want, I can remove and relocate the speaker if I'd like. The excess speaker wire is conveniently under the RubiGrid. The Bulletpoint Mounting Solutions cable management kit has rubber ties that provide a nice level of cleanliness.





Yes, I threw a zip strip on their for good measure as I also put the speaker wire in the cable management channel.



Hope this helps someone. It is fun to do these projects and even more fun to share what I've learned.

 

I’m looking to revive a 2016 thread and get some fresh input from Gen 3 Tundra owners with similar setups. I’m in the planning phase for installing an Icom 7000 in my 2024 CrewMax Limited and could use some advice.

 

I'm currently in the process myself. I have a 24 Limited (non-hybrid). I am running a PowerWerx panel under the rear seat. It is similar to the pic with the exception it has an Anderson power pole in one of the slots. This will be where my main body (ICOM IC-2370a) will be. I will run RJ45 and 3.5mm cables to the head (which will be mounted on my BulletPoint Rubigrid, and speakers, which will have one mounted on one side of the cab and another on the other side to differentiate the channels. I plan on mounting my antenna on my ditch light brackets with an additional mount plate that you can find very easily by search "ditch light bracket ham radio antenna."

I don't want to drill a hole in my roof as I have the panoramic roof and it might not like that.

This is all still in the works, paycheck by paycheck things are getting bought and planned for.

 

@TXW5CSM

Great write up. Question - how did you route the cable from the radio, through the dash, and into the head unit?

I am looking at installing a Hytera HM782i, and will likely be doing something similar

 

Nice write-up! 73 from W7TRD