Alpharex USA headlights

I'm so confused. R0r0 says you need a huge hole, Swat say's just some scraping clearance with a utility knife?! Which is it?!

 

The difference is the Jet Black is more blacked out, and the flat black has chrome accents. Here's a pic with some cheesy arrows I made with my fat finger, haha. Hope this helps

 

I bet it fits with light scraping but I got impatient and drilled a hole. Definitely mount the LED bulbs before the headlights housing so you can seal properly and there is no room in truck engine bay.

 

do you have any pics of the mods you had to do? I’m following in your footsteps on this one. Definitely don’t want to fry them by not making them tight!

 

I apologize but I didn't think to take photos at the time. There is a lip around the circumference of the cap that mates to the circumference of the hole. The back of the V.4 LED only on the right side, was mounted right against the edge of the hole in the housing so that the lip had no space to insert. I just trimmed the lip at only the spot where the LED needed space to fit. Please note the caps have gasket on them and rotate clockwise to lock in tight.

Pay super careful attention to the Alpharex instructions and V.4 instructions about how to correctly mount the H7's. Also, It was kind of a PITA to get the perfect beam pattern. I had to loosen the housings, pull the back cover off, tighten the housing back in, and the with gloved hand rotate the LED for the most pleasing projector pattern. You'll be fine if you just insert them so the LED's are pointing horizontally. My OCD got the best of me.

 

That makes sense. Thanks for sharing your experience! I’ve got the lights on order but will probably wait to install them until I level the truck (likely going the 5100 route) in the coming weeks so that I don’t have to adjust the headlights twice.

 

I did the same earlier with the GTR Ultra Series 2 bulbs. I installed the Alpharex Pro's before Christmas but the GTR bulbs were back ordered until mid January. To say the GTR's are a tight fit is a bit of an understatement. The "blade" that the LED chip set is on is almost too thick to fit inside the projector opening. Once I was able to get the blade in the projector the next tight fit was with the bulb heat sink and headlight dust cap. I was also able to slide the LED driver down the void in the back of the headlight housing. So with sometime and no modification I was able to get everything sealed up inside the headlight housing. I should have taken more photos but can add more pictures if anyone is interested.

Above is the standard halogen bulb in the driver side projector housing.

Here is the GTR Ultra 2 led in the passenger side projector housing.


Here is a comparison of the two bulbs. Both photos have the halogen on the drivers side and the led on the passenger side. It maybe hard to see but in person there is a significant difference. Of course I installed both the led bulbs, they've been in since Tuesday night and I love them.
If anyone is interested in more photos of how the bulbs fit let me know.

 

Just a heads up, when adjusting my headlights this morning, I noticed that the low beams do not turn off when you turn the high beams on (I don’t mean when flashing, but switched on). I believe they need to for VA state inspection. Will report back when I find out but I don’t think that is normal.

Also rained this weekend and went through car wash, no condensation yet. I have not drove in the rain yet though.

 

Thanks for the condensation report. The low beams switching off when high beams are on seems like something that would be controlled by the truck and not the headlight housing?

 

Good call, could have been pre-existing. I honestly did not take notice previously.

 

Since installing the headlights on the 16th of December we've had roughly 20 days with some sort of rain fall, a handful of those days being over .50" with the most being over 2". This is the norm in middle Tennessee, and I can report that after nearly 24 hours of cumulative driving in the rain I have yet to see any condensation in the housing.

 

Trying to do all my research before buying. Is the low beam bulb housing a twist and lock type or the spring lock type?

 

The Alpharex Pro-series has a H7 Low Beam. They have pictures that should answer your question.
https://alpharexusa.com/product/07-...equoia-pro-series-projector-headlights-black/

 

Thanks. So spring type holder? Asking cause some of the LED bulbs online say an adapter is needed for certain makes and models.

 

If your LED bulbs need an adapter I would be a bit apprehensive. My GTR Ultra 2's just barely fit underneath the dust cap and they had no adapter.

 

came across the gen 2 NOVA from alpharex. haven't seen anyone with them yet.

https://www.protuninglab.com/axhl-tun07-ppts-led-lb-a.html

 

So quick question on the brown and red wires that come of the back of the headlight housing. What are the brown ones for? I connected my DRL harness red output to the headlight red input and did nothing with the brown wires. Is that correct?

 

I don't recall having a red wire on the headlight. My Pros only had the high and low headlight connector and a solitary brown wire. I connected the brown wire from the headlight to the red output wires from the DRL module and my lights have been working and also have the DRL activation feature.

 

Where did you plug it in this brown wire hanging out? Or the red or brown one under cap?

 

I didn't connect or disconnect any of the wires under the dust cap. I only attached to the 3 wires coming out of the lower corner of the housing. Seeing as I don't know the schematics of the internal headlight wiring I'm not sure how the functionality of the headlight would be affected if you were to connect/disconnect the wires inside the housing.

Have the DRL's been working for you in your current configuration?

 

Brown wire goes to ignition fuse block so the DRL's switch on with ignition and run brighter until headlights come on. Plug the DRL controller in and wire negative to frame and positive to battery. Use the add a fuse for connecting the brown wire to the ignition fuse spot.

https://alpharexusa.com/installation-guide-for-07-13-toyota-tundra-08-17-toyota-sequoia-headlights/

Bussmann BP/HHLP-RP Add-A-Circuit F

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYP67NK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

They did work. That’s odd. Ok thanks. My red wire wasn’t plugged into anything so I connected the red drl wire to it and in driving mode they were bright and with low beams on they dimmed down.

 

In the link above, Step 6 shows the brown wire from the headlight connecting to the red wire of the DRL controller harness.

When you say the brown wire goes to the ignition fuse block, did you add wire? The brown wire from the headlight is only a few inches long so I'm not sure how you connected it to the ignition fuse.
I connected the red and gray wire from the DRL controller to my ignition fuse using the add a fuse. I then tied the black wire to the grounding bolts by the fuse block. Then I connected the 2 red wires to the brown wires on the headlights. My DRL's have been working with all functions as intended.

I'm curious if it can be done differently.

 

I didn’t think about running it the way you did. I wired the harness directly to the battery + & - and the gray wire the way you did into the ignition fuse. I had the wrong ignition fuse at first (the 30 amp towards the rear) and was wondering why they wouldn’t turn off.

 

The install instructions do say to wire the red wire to the battery but I did some testing before dressing the harness in to see if my method would work. I found that there was zero issue with splicing the grey(signal) and red(power) wire together. I like the fact that this makes for one less connection and another plus is that the splice is under the fuse box cover which should also help. One other thing I did was run all the wiring through a loom. I should have taken more pictures but I had other errands to run and needed the truck.

 

Just checking in to report that I have been running the pro model for 3 months now and have had no issues thus far (besides the initial shipment being broken and the manufacturing condensation). This time of the year in south MS it rains almost every day and I can report that I have had NO condensation issues...also multiple high pressure washes too. Alpharex still has my vote! The DRL isn't nearly as bright as the Morimotos but the price is much less as well. I may do the LED swap at some point, but don't want to modify the dust cover. Has anyone tried the Hikari bulbs yet? They seem the highest rated for projector housings. Wondering if they fit under the cover.

 

I just ordered the black Pro's this morning (sucks I missed the coupon stacking glitch) vs the other all LED "Pro-like" version from ebay. I like the pure cutoff projectors give and the 2 yr warranty.

Also bought some Aukee H7 leds off Amazon. They look like they have the shortest fan based on Amazon pictures. Will report back if they fit under the dust cap.

 

I also have the Pro model, here in middle Tennessee we also have been getting consistent rain. I've had them since mid Dec with no issues.

As far as the LED swap out I did that about 2 weeks ago. I installed the GTR Ultra Series 2.They are a tight fit under the dust cap but they were able to fit without modification. https://headlightrevolution.com/h7-gtr-lighting-ultra-2/

 

Are these GTR bulbs that much better than bulbs in the $50-80 range? I read a couple comparisons, albeit none had the HR bulbs in the mix, and the hikari and Katana seemed to come out ahead. $200 seems pretty steep just for bulbs.

 

HR isn't the brand just the store front, GTR is the brand, of course I can't speak of the A to B comparison of various bulbs. But so far I've had a no name brand which died after just over a year. I've also used the S-V.4 bulbs which I liked but were the wrong style for this application. When it came to get H7 LEDs for the Alpharexs I decided to splurge, and buy the new GTR Ultra 2s. They are definitely near the upper end as far as cost but they also come with a lifetime warranty, which was another factor in my decision to go with them.

With all that said I can't say if they are 4 times better than a $50 pair of bulbs, but I do hope they don't die in a year. I'd say see if you can find a LED comparison and see if that helps your decision.

BTW I really like your Sequoia, I'm a fan of the clean look.