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Alpharex USA headlights

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by TheBeast, Sep 17, 2019.

  1. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:15 PM
    #571
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    DC rear fold down seats, decals removed, blacked out badges, complete stereo, ceramic coating, ToyTec Boss 3/1.5, RidgeGrappler 305/70r17, blacked out rock rings and center caps, smoked tail lights, BAMUFFLER Alpharex Pro headlights, TRD PRO Sequoia Grille, DAPtune
    Sealed means fixed into the housing and cannot be replaced, not uncommon with new LED, H7 is a standard low beam bulb, that is easily replaced.
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:18 PM
    #572
    YotaBro

    YotaBro This forum will make me broke

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    Lots of shenanigans.
    What're the overall recommendation out of the 3?
     
  3. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:19 PM
    #573
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    DC rear fold down seats, decals removed, blacked out badges, complete stereo, ceramic coating, ToyTec Boss 3/1.5, RidgeGrappler 305/70r17, blacked out rock rings and center caps, smoked tail lights, BAMUFFLER Alpharex Pro headlights, TRD PRO Sequoia Grille, DAPtune
    Budget? I have the pros..great upgrade and tough to beat for the price!
     
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  4. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:20 PM
    #574
    YotaBro

    YotaBro This forum will make me broke

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    Lots of shenanigans.
    You think that the pros beat the OEM headlights?
     
  5. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:38 PM
    #575
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Depends on your budget. if you have the money the Nova's are worth it. I love the look of them with the 4 separate diodes. If there was 1 con, it would be their 2 year warranty. A little lame for a completely sealed unit, although they are supposedly working on a better warranty. You can't go wrong with either one. Aside from custom retro-fitting your headlights, AlphaRex and Morimoto are the best aftermarket option out there. Just my .02:)
     
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  6. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:39 PM
    #576
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    Not sure about the 2017? But they blow away factory 2013’s!
     
    YotaBro[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Feb 2, 2021 at 8:49 PM
    #577
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    YotaBro[QUOTED] and rons23 like this.
  8. Feb 3, 2021 at 3:43 AM
    #578
    PonyMan

    PonyMan Old Man

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    So these will fit the 2021 CM?
     
  9. Feb 3, 2021 at 5:59 AM
    #579
    RepeatPete

    RepeatPete New Member

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  10. Feb 3, 2021 at 4:42 PM
    #580
    Nemesis

    Nemesis New Member

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    Okay, so here's my take on the Alpharex vs Morimoto:

    Alpharex:
    1) Outshines Morimoto
    2) Costs less than Morimoto
    3) More design selections to choose from
    4) Possibly more options to mod

    Morimoto:
    1) Coming from a Nova Series owner, the TOYOTA TUNDRA (14-20): XB LED HEADLIGHTS looks far better than the NOVA Series IMHO
    2) Their DRL is better IMHO
    3) Longer Warranty (5yrs vs Alpharex's 2yr)
    4) Possibly better sealed - from what I read some owners have experienced condensation in their Alpharex housing. I haven't so far. I plan on laying another sealant on top just in case

    In the end, I went with Alpharex and don't regret it. Had the wife allowed a higher budget I would have gone with the Sequoia conversion but that thing is ridiculously expensive.
     
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  11. Feb 3, 2021 at 6:13 PM
    #581
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    Nice write up..and a fair comparison.
     
  12. Feb 10, 2021 at 9:34 AM
    #582
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    5" lift 20x12 fuel with 35" nitto ridge graplers. Full led and secaine 9" android head unit.
    So My New generation AlphaRex Pro are on their way here from California. These are 2nd Gen headlights that offer the sequential turn signal along with the activation sequence. The Tap fuse wiring is also included. These are just getting to Alpha as we speak as they are trying to get rid of the older Generation first i had to request them by phone to even get the new ones.
    So all of you Alpha Pro guys out there i need some input... Alpha has told me that 90% of the new led bulbs will fit inside the dust cover with no modifications, im not sure if the guys modifying stuff were from the older gen housings or if alpha has corrected fitment in the new gens. But i would like to replace the halogen with either supernova s-v.4 or Gtr Ultra 2's. I am currently running the h-11 sv4 in my low beam stock housing and its amazing.. I have also see Headlight revolution talk about which Projector bulbs are better. A GTR in a reflector may be great but in a projector may be different. ANY INPUT is greatly appreciated.
     
  13. Feb 10, 2021 at 9:36 AM
    #583
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    As to the posts above the Alphas are working on extending their warranty to 5years also. I did see the XB's priced $ 50 bucks lower than the Novas today.
     
    TheBeast[OP] and MTRock like this.
  14. Feb 10, 2021 at 8:29 PM
    #584
    GixxerSteve

    GixxerSteve New Member

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    Sealed LEDs means they are build into the light/permanent. It's not a bulb you can switch out.

    H7 is the size bulb these headlights use. There are all different size light bulbs in the world (H1, H3, H4, H7, H8, H9, H10......)
     
  15. Feb 11, 2021 at 3:48 AM
    #585
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    They make adapters to switch an h7 to an h11, though i have not tried one myself. As far as the sealed units go, most manufacturers OEM are going all sealed units. Instead of a bulb the leds are soldered onto a motherboard. I believe the OEM are lifetime units unless in an accident. The aftermarket ones are covered 2-5 years depending on the manufacturer and the quality may be much less than OEM as far as durability. Basicly they are making a throw away headlight now. But they started doing that with the tail lights quite a while ago. The chevy truck tail lights are no longer bolt in, but held in by plastic tabs. My dads fell off the truck just after he bought it.
     
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  16. Feb 12, 2021 at 9:44 PM
    #586
    XSPman

    XSPman New Member

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    front levelling, 34" tires, billet grill, tonneau, Nova
    Just finished installing the Nova series for my 2007 two days ago so I better write down a couple of my observations before I forget. The fitment is good. The lights are bright. I'm happy with them.
    1. To get the plastic front panel off just under the light, take the two plastic clips out on the grill side, then I put a piece of masking tape over the end of a thin wide screw driver, and inserted it where the plastic pins are located, about an inch from the top and an inch from the bottom. Pop these out one at a time, towards the front, to avoid breaking those plastic pins. You could even spray a little Rust Check in the crack the day before, to let it creep in there to lubricate it. Before reinstalling, I sanded down that knob on the end of the pin, a wee bit with 400grit and put a little silicone grease on it so it comes out a little easier next time.
    2. There is a little plastic retaining clip on the bottom of the headlight housing, make note of it before removing the old housing, and make sure when installing the new headlight that it is secured properly the same way on the bottom where it sits on that metal bracket.
    3. The slots on the female end of the low beam electrical connector are about 1/4 inch apart, and the slots on the high beam female connector are just over 3/8 inch apart so if you look at them close, there should be no way you will mix them up(the plastic connector is a little different also). But the real problem with these were for me, that both high beam male connectors came with the pins bent slightly inward, so compare the male and female and bend the pins gently outward if you have to, so that they are just over 3/8 inch apart, and they should slide nicely together.
    4. The outside marker lights, you pull the little bulb out of your truck wire, and you push the new male end in that is sticking out of the marker light hole on the new housing. I had trouble getting the new male ends in the slots, so I filed down the plastic between the copper contacts in the female until they eventually slid in. Then, remove that round sticky paper that was holding that marker light wire for you, and screw that connector into the housing also, the rubber gasket appears a touch oversized on that one so just try to line it up so it seals nicely.
    5. There are two silver metal adjusting knobs on the back of the new housing for horizontal and vertical beam alignment. The lower one and closest to the outside of the truck on each light, is the vertical. It adjust about 1 inch per full turn. I did not bother with the horizontal.

    Most of these points have been mentioned in earlier replies here and there, I just thought I'd bring them all together.
    Sorry, but I did not hook up the DRL wire at this time.
     
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  17. Feb 13, 2021 at 12:51 AM
    #587
    Vockroth

    Vockroth New Member

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    Late Model 18" Factory Wheels | Michelin LTX A/T2 P275/65R18 114T Tires (stock) | Factory Running Boards | Ready Lift 66-5075 2.4" Front Leveling Kit | Bilstein B6 4600 Shocks and Struts | Curt Mfg 31198 Front Hitch | LLumar Formula One Stratos 30% Ceramic Tint Front Side Windows | K&N 33-2387 Filter Element | Intro-Tech #56060046 Custom Auto Shade | Factory Reverse Camera | Ozium Air Freshener 4.5oz, (fits in ashtray hole)
    That is a weird beam pattern. It looks like the light isn't lighting the right and left corners. I saw a video once where a guy took these out driving around and it seemed the light doesn't illuminate the lower right corner.
     
  18. Feb 13, 2021 at 12:03 PM
    #588
    JC’sTundra

    JC’sTundra New Member

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    So here’s my problem:
    I installed the Alpha Pro’s today. Super easy. Haven’t set up the DRL yet but it seems pretty straightforward.
    However, I’m getting a hyperflash now when I try to use the turn signal. Initially I replaced the 3157A bulb with an LED bulb, but then I swapped the original back in and I’m still getting the hyperflash. I’m thinking it might be the built in LED in the outside marker light (the one where we just attach the housing). It just lights up but no blinking and the 3157A in the front just shines steady as well. What do the masses think? Do I need a resistor or did I do something wrong?
     
  19. Feb 13, 2021 at 12:44 PM
    #589
    JC’sTundra

    JC’sTundra New Member

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    Well, it’s definitely not the outside marker. I put back the factory bulb and same problem, but this time the DRL strip went out too so I now know that it controls the DRL strip as well. So what could it be?
     
  20. Feb 13, 2021 at 12:44 PM
    #590
    GixxerSteve

    GixxerSteve New Member

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    You should not be getting hyperflash at all if using the bulbs that came in the headlight plus your stock incandescent turn signal bulbs. When it comes to hyperflash, the vehicle is only checking the current in the turn signal circuitry on that particular side of the car. It has nothing to do with the side markers, headlights, etc. So if you're getting hyperflash on the right side, either the front or rear turn signal bulb is pulling less power, which means check them for being LED or burned out incandescents.
     
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  21. Feb 13, 2021 at 1:16 PM
    #591
    JC’sTundra

    JC’sTundra New Member

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    I appreciate the quick response man, checked the bulbs, everything is lighting up, the taillights are all good. I changed the backup light bulbs to LED previously but that was before the Alphas and it had no negative effects. Everything else is incandescents with the exception of the low beams which are LED’s.
     
  22. Feb 13, 2021 at 1:22 PM
    #592
    GixxerSteve

    GixxerSteve New Member

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    That's perplexing.
     
  23. Feb 13, 2021 at 2:06 PM
    #593
    JC’sTundra

    JC’sTundra New Member

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    Problem solved! I tried connecting the DRL harness to the headlight while the turn signal was activated and I was getting the hyperflash. As soon as I connected the negative wire on the harness to the negative terminal on the battery, the hyperflash slowed down and the DRL strip turned amber and started doing the “sequential thing”! Could it be that the harness added a little extra current to the system? I don’t understand much about electronics past the whole positive/negative thing.
    Thanks again for your input.
     
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  24. Feb 15, 2021 at 4:28 AM
    #594
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    Lights arrived, now if i can get them installed before the blizzard hits today.


    20210214_163002.jpg 20210214_163734.jpg 20210214_163744.jpg
     
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  25. Feb 15, 2021 at 4:31 AM
    #595
    Rockin 2nd Gen

    Rockin 2nd Gen New Member

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    Last edited: Feb 15, 2021
  26. Feb 15, 2021 at 9:14 AM
    #596
    JC’sTundra

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    Got done wiring in the DRL’s this morning. They look great. Much easier to wire up than I had anticipated. I kept the stock amber turn signal bulbs until I can get some resistor LED’s to replace them.
    Couple of tips:
    1. When connecting the headlights to the DRL harness, the brown wire gets connected to the red wire, you’ll see that the connectors are a perfect male/female match. I wasn’t sure of it until I really looked at it and figured it out. (Bear in mind, I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to electrical stuff.)

    2. The add-a-fuse connector that goes into the ignition slot in the fuse box is called an “add-a-fuse” for a reason. Don’t do what I did. I got so excited that the lights were working, I closed everything up and then couldn’t figure out why the truck wouldn’t start! Make sure you put your red 10a fuse into the empty slot in the add-a-fuse connector.

    Aside from that, it’s very straightforward. As close to plug and play as you can get.

    Tomorrow I replace the fog lights with LED’s.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2021
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  27. Feb 15, 2021 at 9:35 AM
    #597
    GixxerSteve

    GixxerSteve New Member

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    I highly recommend using these Syneticusa 3157 LED bulbs with built-in resistor vs. the stand alone resistors. The stand alone ones have to be spliced in and they get hot, which melted my car battery a few years ago. These are much better, much easier to install and don't get hot.

    Screenshot_20210215-102854_Amazon Shopping.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2021
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  28. Feb 15, 2021 at 9:59 AM
    #598
    SouthWestGA

    SouthWestGA New Member

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    Be extremely careful about where you mount the resistor box

    they get hot and melt stuff

    you’ll need a lot of slack in order to mount them somewhere that’s not in a danger zone

    I ordered some bulbs similar to the above and returned them. The harness wasn’t long enough to safely put it out of the way
     
  29. Feb 16, 2021 at 4:22 AM
    #599
    FrogmanTundra

    FrogmanTundra New Member

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    I have a set of Pros from Dec 2019 (1st Gen) on my 2013. I would highly doubt that Alpha would create a new mold for the headlight housing for identical model years even if it is a new generation Pro headlight. With that said I have been running GTR Ultra 2's for over a year now and am quite happy with them. Check out post #157#192 in this thread to see how they fit, and #173 to see how I wired the DRL.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2021
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  30. Feb 16, 2021 at 4:24 AM
    #600
    FrogmanTundra

    FrogmanTundra New Member

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    Just as an FYI many of us in this thread have experienced these things over a year ago, might be worth checking to see what others did, and solve some of the issues you were having.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2021

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