Alpharex USA headlights

The DRLs could certainly be brighter. I don't have previous sets to compare against, but I suspect that they're equally dim as before.

The Retrofit Source drop shipped them to me, so the package came directly from Alpharex. I suspect that the same is true for Headlight Revolution as they had an identical deal for Black Friday.

I don't see any advantage to purchasing them from Headlight Revolution or The Retrofit Source instead of through Alpharex directly, unless you plan to buy other bulbs at the same time and want to get a deal on shipping.

 

Ahh, maybe it works differently with the alpharex products. The products I have ordered from them all came from their warehouse in Atlanta. They still have very good customer service should you need anything, at least in my experience.

 

I installed the AlphaPros and for some reason everything works with the exception of the Hazard lights only work with an open ignition, i followed the instructions and checked out whatever videos i could find. any suggestions?

 

Has anyone done or have a long term review of the headlights? I'm wondering how quick they oxidize or if they retain moisture.

 

Ive had my NOVAs since the last week of April 2020. No issues with oxidation or moisture retention.

 

X2,

 

I've had my PROs since Dec 19, 2019 (these are the earlier model without the switchback sequential turn signal/DRL). Over the course of the year they've seen over 50 inches of rain, but still no moisture or oxidization.

 

Bought my son a set of Pro Series for his 2013 (https://alpharexusa.com/product/07-...ght-black-with-level-adjuster/?v=f24485ae434a) for Xmas. We just got around to installing them late yesterday. Everything was fine, except for no high beams.

Any ideas? Reached out to Alpharex via phone/text. Did get a response, stating "You may need to spread out the pins on the high beam plug from our headlights. It might not have a good connection. Or if that doesn't work, your high beam polarity may be reversed. So you will then need to flip the plug 180". Have tried either yet (will wait until it warms up a bit this afternoon), but thought the nubs prevented you from reversing the harness connectors? Anyone experience this?



Also, what's the best way to run the harness wire for the DRL to the other headlight? We zipped it to the front brace in front of the radiator, but not sure that's the best option.

TIA!

 

Reach out to Alpharex via Facebook, I seem to get a quicker response. Also your fine with running it the way you did as long is its not in any pinch points or sharp areas. I would put wire loom around it and seal the joint.

 

Regarding the high-beam, when I had the Alpharex Pro-Series headlights, i had a lot of trouble getting the high-beam harnesses to connect from the car to the headlight. I had to use pliers to get the two to click together TIGHT. Once I did that, they both worked.

I also ran the wire harness the same way along the front of the radiator, tucked as high up as possible.

 

Thanks. makes sense.

 

Did try to reconnect - you can't reverse them, so they're in correctly, but may require what you say. Will try that next. Thanks.

 

Hey all, not sure if this has already been covered but here goes. There are actually 3 models. 1.) Pro which has halogen low beam changed to an H-7 connector, and a sealed Led high beam. Headlight revolution says your can change out the halogen to any led that is H-7, but you can not replace the high beam as it is soldered to a board. 2.) Luxx series are around $600 bucks and are totaly sealed. 3.) Nova series totally sealed $900 + 2 year warranty.
If you have the cash to replace them when they burn out go for it they look amazing, personally i want a housing i can put what ever bulb style i want in it and not get a ticket.
The morimoto xb is similar to the Nova in brightness and price and offers a 5 year warranty.
I am currently running s-v4 low beam and cougar motorsports in high beam factory housing and its amazingly bright and has a great beam pattern.

 

OK, well I got the passenger side to work, by really applying pressure and pulling the two connectors together. You were right. It does not work on the driver side though. I suppose I could hot wire them together and bypass the harness. Have reached out to Alpharex again.

 

Check for bent pins from headlight harness. Had the same issue with the high beam for the drivers side last weekend.

 

Checked for bent pins - Alpharex support actually told us to bend them outwards to make a better connection. That didn't work. They suggested checking the fuses(s) didn't check the fuse - apparently there is one for each headlight (makes sense now), but would think the whole headlight is out - not just the high beam. Hopefully that is it.

 

OK, it's fixed. I'm an idiot. The high beam was off on one side, but I was screwing around with the low beam harness. Sent Alpharex a video and the guy immediately said "not the blue and white one, the high beams are the vlkack and white ones". So when i realized that, I squeezed the other harness and got the "click" and it worked fine. Now to leveling. They sent me this video:

 

Did you run your amber running lights with the DRL'S?

 

Hi guys,

I'm new to this forum and came across this forum while researching Alpharex headlights for my '08 CrewMax Grade Series 5.7L with a tow package (very rare from what I hear).

Anyhow, after owning the truck for a little over 12 years, I figured it's time to replace the headlights (tired of buffing off the oxidation).

I'm hoping you Alpharex Nova Series owners could help answer some of my questions before I bite the bullet on ordering the Alpharex Nova Series - sku #880727

1) It states on their website that "*Does (I think they meant "it is...", not "Does...") not compatible with Tundra with headlights leveling, you can install these headlights but give up the leveling function". So, if I have to give up my leveling function, how do you level the headlights?

2) I believe I read where the DRL would dim if the running lights were turned on? Is this correct? Or was it, the DRLs would turn off once I turned on the running lights? If the latter is there a workaround to this. Meaning I want the DRLs running at their highest intensity but at the same time have the running lights on for the rear.

3) For those Nova Series owners still running LED and haven't made any modifications whatsoever have you experienced condensation in the housing? Someone mentioned using silica gel packs...really? Do these really prevent condensation? What brand/model silicone do you use to prevent condensation? Will any work? I have some Ultra Clear all purpose caulking left over from plumbing work and let me tell you that thing is awesome!

 

Hey beast. Did u post the pics of the alphaRex pro housing? Video shows sequential turn signal. I called alpha the other day and they told me none of the pro have sequential turn only activation. Which model pro is this ? Please help.

 

Question 1 YES, There are 2 adjustment screws on each headlight side/up/down to dial them in. The directions for adjusting headlights are on their site.
Question 2 YES, this happened to me when I installed my Nova's, I always ran my ambers, so the drl was dim, and not to my liking until I figured it out. They are bright maybe not as some of the newer factory, but it works for me. As far your rear running lights on with your drl, I can't answer, and me personally am not cutting into any factory wire.
Question 3 No, I have not experienced any condensation whatsoever, and NO you will not need silica packs as these lights are completely sealed. Silica packs are more for retrofitting headlights, you add them in when your building your headlight, and yes they do work imop, I put them in my old retrofit.

I will say the Nova's are completely sealed, and there is no replacing bulbs. They are super bright and are better and brighter than my HID retrofit. They come with a 2 year warranty, which kinda sucks especially when the Morimotos have a 5 year. I did speak with with a tech who said their working on a better warranty. That remains to be seen. Hope this helps

 

I wouldn't take your chances that what I got will be identical to what you will get. I'm guessing that they are working through old stock and starting to bring in the new stock, so they have to set expectations and tell people that none of them are sequential.

For your reference, I got the 880711 ones, but I'm not making any guarantees about whether or not you will get lucky with a set with sequential turn signals.

 

Just to clarify on the other response, some Tundras have a motor attached to the headlights with a switch inside the cab which lets you raise or lower the lights. I think that most trucks before ~2010 don't have this feature.

If your truck had that switch and you installed the Novas, then you would no longer be able to use the switch because there is no motor.

All of the headlights can be manually aimed. You use a screwdriver to get them pointed in the right direction, and then they are fixed there until you get out the screwdriver again.

Hope that helps!

 

Wow! Super quick responses and in detail, too!

You guys rock!

Seriously, discussion forums are the best thing ever invented!

 

Hey, just want to clarify this point a bit. The H7 bulbs aren't centered in the rear cap, so some LEDs will fit and likely some won't. I had to do a bit of trimming to get the GTR Ultra 2 bulbs to work, but was able to keep everything sealed up. Other members weren't as lucky.

Choose your LED bulbs carefully, YMMV.

 

From alpha rex regarding sequential turn signal on pro model.

 

I disconnected the amber bulbs since they drowned out the DRL bar and made it look less modern.

 

Heres a few pics 1 with the flashers on, another while activation mode was going, another with just drl bar, last wuth headlights on. Couldnt show the light output via windshield cause i havent adjusted them yet.

My only gripe is they should have an amber drl mode so it can match the set up.

 

Morimotos have the amber drl now.....but thats another $900 lol

 

Did you tell them to go pound sand?

I'm no electrician but can't one simply splice and connect the amber wires to the ignition wire for running amber DRLs? And add resistors if need be but I'm pretty sure there's a workaround.

I don't mind cutting/splicing into factory wires. Maybe I'll tinker with it when I get my Nova series arrives.