Alarm Removal / Ignition Wiring - Please Help

Hi Everyone,

I've been using this forum a lot over the past few years of owning my '00 Access Cab, and have finally made an account to try and get to the bottom of this issue.

When I bought the truck it had some kind of aftermarket remote start and anti-theft. It used to work ok, then it started stranding me and acting erratically.

After a while of just avoiding locking the truck, I decided to get in there and try to pull it out for good. Turns out there is an aftermarket remote start AND a separate immobilizer that are wired to each other and the ignition in this ridiculous mouse nest.

I want to bypass all of it and just have the ignition fire up with metal keys, that's it. It looks like the stock white plug that goes into the ignition cylinder has been spliced into by all this junk, and originally it just went right through that black conduit into the engine bay? Can I just cut off these splices, and match up the colors again to the plug?

I've read that '00 Tundras had no stock immobilizer, so hopefully that wouldn't be an issue. Can anyone confirm? I've been trying to find a picture or diagram of this connector on a stock truck with no anti-theft.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I try and do most of my own work, I can solder just fine, this immobilizer wiring stuff just gives me the creeps. Thanks!

 

How handy are you with soldering, and do you own heatshrink? And/or do you have a quality crimper and butt splices?

To answer your main Q: No immob in earlier models, this is something that ultimately came in the Sequoias and some of the double cabs, their sibling.

To answer your other Q, in theory, YES, you can simply re-connect wiring anywhere they cut it matching color-to-color. In some cases tht will be easy, but you may run into some cases where you may find confusion (I'm less familiar with the earlier models). It may be helpful to check the EWDs here on the forum for wire colors, and I'd also highly, highly recommend getting me a number off the brain box so I can maybe track down which alarm it is, potentially find instructions so you can cross-reference OEM wiring colors to the alarm manuf'ers wiring colors.

First things first though, get rid of all that electrical tape so you can see what goes where.

 

May or may not help.

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Point worth mentioning too, @Green00SR5

Depending on the brain box, you may find it tees into the power door locks. Which means you may have relays in the doors to hook into the lock system. You could potentially keep all that stuff, and just bypass the starter kill wire. But if the unit is already acting flaky (life span is usually 10-15 years on aftermarket alarms), there's no guarantee it won't also fail in the future.

Do you know if you have the RS3000 TVIP system in your truck? Or maybe you'd be willing to add it in for an OEM door unlock solution?

 

@1lowlife thanks for the diagrams, those will definitely come in handy, and @shifty` thanks for the thorough response - I agree I should get a model number for the immobilizer box, the way it's tucked in there I couldn't make out the FCCID without unplugging leads and possibly making it go into lockdown, but I'll just have to risk it. the serial number's: 440381200194-11 which didn't turn up much, and this is the remote start unit.

One of them is definitely hooked up to door locks since there's a single fob that unlocks and remote starts, which is weird, not sure how they pulled that off using 2 separate units. I don't think it's an RS3000 based on the appearance of the module and the FCCID of the fob (ELVAT8C).

I considered trying to leave the keyless entry part alone, but seeing what a mess it is I think going back to stock then installing an RS3000 like you say would be the best bet if I could skip the immobilizer part. There's actually a service record from the dealership about 20yrs ago mentioning a remote start installation, so it's gettin old. I love a fob for the doors, but I hate the idea of having a reliable truck just for a cheap little computer to decide if the engine starts.

I'll get in there tomorrow and keep clearing up the tape weeds.

 

Ah, that last bit with the fob is interesting. There were so many 2000s era alarms that had that specific remote. Hell @RUSTYNUTS even has that remote for his.

The integration with remote locks and start should be functions of the alarm itself, if it has an immob unit, that's probably doing the remote start, the main brain is doing the main "thinking" and door lock/unlock. But who knows, I haven't touched their stuff. It's a DEI product, but entered the market after my last shop job. We mostly installed Clifford and Avital, which were both DEI products too. DEI pretty much owns every-f'n-thing.

You probably have the 20095 or 20023 brain. 20023 manual with wire info is here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1049726/Autocommand-20023.html

It happens to match the 25522 documentation you provided with regard to color. It would appear the position of the molex connector and position of the LEDs on the chassis may give a clue as to which you've got.

But over on the12volt, I found this thread which points to Viper units as having the correct wire colors - for the record, Viper is a DEI company as well, so that makes sense. While I'd initially go with the manual ^^ there, I'll drop a link to the t12v thread here: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=119546

I personally hate alarms. I hated installing them. I hated cleaning up shit jobs other installers did, so I could remove them, only to replace with another.

FYI only: Wasn't asking if this was an RS3200 unit. I was asking if you checked whether you HAVE an RS3000 unit installed from the factory. Sometimes dealers added on shit alarms like this so they could 5x-10x upcharge what they paid for it, despite the vehicle already having remote unlock. I'd check for an RS3000 brain in the truck, or consider raiding a JY and installing the OEM/factory unit. It's not a ton of parts and will keep you rolling with remote unlock.

 

Alright, I've been peeling tape and yanking out interior trim for about 2 hours, and think I've made some progress with figuring out what's going on here. Here's an update for some more info, or in case anyone in the future might find this helpful.

I got a better view of the smaller control box. From here forward I'll refer to that one as blackbox, and the larger one with the white sticker as whitebox
Blackbox:




Whitebox:



Starting at the stock ignition connector, I followed all the splices, and they are as follows.

FROM IGNITION CONNECTOR:

• White - spliced to fused pink wire into whitebox marked (PWR)
• Blk/Grn - spliced to blk/wht aftermarket wire that forked into external relay. Relay was connected to black-box with orange, and to stock blk/grn wire going into engine bay, which was also connected to yellow wire marked (START) on whitebox
• Blk/yellow - spliced to teal/blue wire into whitebox (marked IGN 2)
• Red/White - not spliced
• Blk/red - spliced to light blue on whitebox (marked IGN 1)
• blue/red -spliced to yellow on blackbox

Now, tracking the remaining terminal plug wires FROM the top of whitebox, we have:

• white (marked ACC) spliced to dash light dimmer probably for ACC power, AND white wire on blackbox
• black (marked GND) spliced to black wire on blackbox AND frame ground

Now, the connector side on the bottom of whitebox, which turned out to be mostly cut and empty:

• red - going straight to blue wire on blackbox
• orange - changes into purple, and splices down to a wire in the footwell conduit:

The miscellaneous junk coming off of blackbox included the valet switch, indicator light, and antenna routed up through the A-Pillar.

The rest of the wires coming out FROM blackbox are as follows. There will be some repeats mentioned earlier.

• thin green on side connector - spliced into connector wire in footwell
• thin red on side connector - spliced into same connector in footwell
• brown - spliced into different connector in footwell
• red- stock white on ignition plug
• white - to white on whitebox (ACC) and dash light dimmer
• red/white - CUT
• blk/white - CUT
• purple - CUT
• yellow - spliced to blue/red on ignition plug
• grn/white -CUT
• blue - to red connector pin on whitebox
• black - GND
• orange - external relay mentioned earlier
• light green -CUT
• Dark green - was routed under running board trim towards back of truck, but had been cut
• black/white - Spliced into fuesbox connector (pictured)

Here are pics of the splices:

left side of footwell, behind kick-panel


Black/white spliced into plug in fusebox:



At this point I'm feeling pretty eager to get snipping. It appears the blk/grn wire from the ignition connector is the only one that is truly bypassed, not just spliced into, so if I can join that together, then just cut the rest to test it, hopefully that will work. The ignition diagram seems to indicate that that is the starter relay, which makes sense because it will not crank when in panic mode.

I assume all the other connector splices are related to the horn, flashers, and door locks, which are all accessed by the alarm. I can try to track them down in diagrams, but returning them to stock (unspliced) condition should be fine.

At this point I think I'll cut just all the splices out, re-solder the blk/grn, and if that works I'll have to come back another day to cut/solder/heat-shrink everything else nicely.

@shifty` I don't see an RS3000 in any of the usual locations, so that might just be a project for another day if I get tired of the key entry. Also, to your point about bad installs, I could not BELIEVE this mess. Most of the splices weren't soldered OR crimped, just twisted and taped. no wonder it was never working right lol.


I'll keep the thread updated when it's all cleaned up.

 

Looks like you've got a solid grasp on everything @Green00SR5, thanks for posting that. Maybe the whole thing is purely a 25522 unit? Wild.

I know some installers will simply strip the OEM wire instead of cut, then wrap the alarm wire around OEM and tape it in some cases. For those, you can simply pull off the alarm wire, then go over the exposed wiring with liquid electrical tape (it's a GB product, it's fine for short runs under 1/2" stripped, beyond that, flexing while bending is a concern). Ideal situation for any other wire that's been spliced is to solder, ideally using this specific twist-and-solder ("twisted helix") technique shown here by a Crutchfield tech, noting that heatshrink assortment kits are everywhere on scAmazon (although "modified lineman" joint would also work):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSqPHQ1zQco​

 

PS - I know what you mean on the install job. I can't tell you half the shit I saw in my blip as an installer on the lifetime employment radar. The confidence some people put on twisted wires, or inability to understand the importance of unexposed wiring blew my mind

 

Update: It worked! thanks again for the help, huge peace-of-mind upgrade for the truck.

 

Post a pic of your restored wiring

 

@bfunke will do, I'm away from the truck but will be back under there in a couple weeks to wire up a dash cam, I'll get some pics then

 

Garbage in, garbage out