AIP bypass help

So I finally installed the block off plates that were included with the kit I HAD bought 1.5 years ago and now I'm getting the code P2433.

I have my ODB sensor connected and I notice that the vehicle intake sensor only shows 32 degrees for 8-9 seconds before showing actual temperature. IF I build my own per your directions will that still/also resolve the P2433 code or do I need to remove the block off plate they had me install and just build your kit.

Since I bought the kit ~ 1.5 years ago everything was working until ~month ago, I was hoping to avoid spending any more money... But if spending $15-20 to build your solution will fix P2433 that isn't a big deal. Honestly my biggest concern is cutting into the wires that is kind of scary for me personally. If I didn't have to cut a wire I have already spent the $15 to test if this would fix my issue.

The only reason I question if this will fix my issue is if I let the truck warm up to 150-160 degrees shut it off, clear the code and restart the truck the code still comes back... I thought after the engine reaching at least 140 degrees if the valve was "closed" it wouldn't throw the code again. Thoughts? What should I actually do at this point? I'm ALMOST at the point of actually spending $7-800 to fix the underlying issue but that seems silly to me for what is causing it....

 

Ok really need some advice. Do I take the plates out and go back to P2440 or keep plates installed and deal with P2433?
I worked on this more tonight, I even tried to find the parts to build your bypass(relay & resistor) and was going to bite the bullet and cut the wire but none of the local places(Advance/Auto Zone/Hardware) store had any resistors (some had the relay) so I will just order both online IF you think that will fix this NEW code fix P2433.
Or do I need to take the plates back out I'm frustrated I didn't listen to you to begin with and try your bypass especially if that is the solution at this point. I was/am SO nervous about cutting any wires. I'll listen this time just please advise me what I should do!?! Do I need to break down and buy the parts to perform the full repair?
Thanks!

 

koditten, do you think this homemade bypass will work on a 2010 I keep getting the P2442 bank 2 valve stuck open.

 

It should work as long as the ECU re flash was not done by the dealer. Have you gone to the Toyota owners website, entered your VIN and checked to make sure the ECU Re flash was not done?

The dealers won't always tell you this work was done, but it will be recorded in the vehicle msinmainten history.

Sorry about the spelling. In a bit of ahurry right now.

 

Thank you, I have not done that. The system was replace when the truck was owned by the previous owner under warranty. Like you previously said they will flash the ecu without even saying anything. I guess I should just give it a shot.

 

It cost nothing to check that website. Do that first.

Toyota owners.com

It's all one word.

 

koditten,
I want to thank you for your advice. I built the bypass my self, ordered the resistor and relay off Amazon which was previously posted in this thread and as of right now it’s working. Do you think I should install block off plates? I run a machine shop so it wouldn’t take anything to make some.

 

@jc153 in here

 

I never installed the plates on my system. Most likely won't.

It's your call.

 

If you don't install the plates and the valves are stuck open you CAN later get P2433 which is basically an atmosphere sensor and if it is overly wet/damp it will stop functioning. That is where I am. If I had it to do over I WOULD install the plates. As it is I can either tap into the ECU and install a new sensor OR do the job of actually repairing the AIP system. I'm leaning heavily toward repairing the AIP system personally.
You may not have this issue but at this point I really wish I HAD installed the plates....

 

Currently my truck is running great. But, reading through the thread, it would seem if the dealer flashed the ECU, I cannot do the DIY fix. Is that correct? And, if so, does this entry mean I could be hosed if trouble begins with the AIP?

Cheers!

 

Well I spoke to soon last night. I got up this morning and the truck went into limp mode again.!!! I am going to go over everything I did and make sure I didn’t make any mistakes. I’m not sure what I could have done wrong though.

 

SO... I ended up replacing the entire AIP system by following 2 videos.

I did a mixture of the 2 I did NOT remove the Injectors as Mr. Clark recommended as all of my connectors were good so I stayed with the more traditional method shown by "How to automotive". I DID remove the water bypass joint to replace the valves in the back that go to the exhaust, that made this job MUCH easier (my opinion) than working behind the engine without the intake manifold. I reassembled everything, used the opportunity to replace my Coolant since the bypass joint causes it to lose quite a bit of fluid anyway(make sure you buy the gaskets for the bypass joint to head to ensure a good connection. My final cost for the repair was around $600 using OEM parts from ebay(carefully selected to ensure they were OEM) and a local shop not including my labor ~8hrs. This price included coolant etc. In my opinion this repair was TOTALLY worth it. If you do your own labor.

My feedback on a couple things and a question.
#1 I put the evap canister hose inside the cold air intake hose that goes between the throttle body and the air filter. I would strongly advice against doing that! The evap canister hose has some foam on it that is kind of flaky and a bit of it must of gotten on my MAF sensor as initially upon reassembly I was receiving a MAF code. Took the MAF off blew it out gently with canned air(more controlled than a compressor) and was lucky as that code went away

#2 some hoses were deteriorated and I think I should have replaced them(I did replace the hose between the water bypass and the main valve) in particular the evap hoses mentioned above as well as the 2 hoses that go to the valves in the back that attach to the sensors on the top passenger side of the intake manifold.

Currently I occasionally receive P0456 Going to replace the gas cap but could one or more of the hoses being deteriorated cause that issue? What would you suggest?

Here are the videos I used.
https://youtu.be/9vKyVQa-pjk[/URL]
and this series:
https://youtu.be/T45YKdLIYZ4[/URL]

 

Hi everyone. I have a 2007 that just started these shenanigans with P2442. The dealer flashed the ECM update back in 2014. Will the DIY bypass still work? If not why not?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Nope. The reflash makes the pumps cycle at random times. This will cause you to get codes when a system check is run.

The bypass can't be used.

 

What do you suggest would be a fix for this issue? Without swapping out the pumps?

 

If you are past the 10 year mark or 150,000 mile mark, the only choices is to fix it yourself or pay someone.

If you are under the above numbers, take it to a dealer and make them repair it under warranty.

 

Well that stinks. I appreciate your time to answer my questions. Thank you very much!

I saw where someone who had come up with the DIY bypass said that AC Delco made the same pumps for way cheaper. The biggest thing that sucks about this is the whole stupid limp mode.

 

Obviously I have a conflict of interests and my allegiance goes without saying. However, I wanted to provide some additional Secondary Air Injection System resources for everyone runs into this inevitable issue. I will leave it at that and anyone that has additional question about the HT Bypass Kits do not hesitate to contact us.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.113686/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/

 

Hi, has anyone ever run into p0113 immediately on startup after installing the diy Aip bypass. I have not put on block plates yet, because I can’t figure out why it throws that code. If I disconnect the st relay wires it doesn’t throw any code. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Is yourv4.7 register in correctly? Are your ground and power wired correctly from the ST relay? All wiring is correct?
I've been rocking the DIY aip override for a few years with block off plates. I had code p2442 which was not hard set yet. Able to clear code. Double check wiring as the ecm is seeing its too hot. And you did not have ecm reflash at dealer?

 

Not sure if it’s been reflashed. I believe I hooked it up correctly. Should I try flipping the wires around at the st relay?

 

Looks like it says ECM update. Guess that means I’m out of luck with the bypass?

 

With the cheap bypass you are out of luck your other option is the Gen 2 bypass kit from Hewitt which is $400

 

Yes. Because it's not just referenced at startup for the pump but adds in random cycling times.
You could do the full Hewitt bypass kit with add ons to fix it. About $450 +$275 for pressure switch if needed. Which is still cheaper than dealership new pumps...

 

Just my valve is bad. Has anyone just changed the valve with some of the other Toyota valves. The valves look the same, just a different bracket. Valve is held on with only four screws. There are some for 85 dollars that look like they would bolt on??

 

I just read a thread about just changing the valves. I don't remember the thread, but I remember that it was much quicker to leave the valve body in place and just rob the valves out of the new assembly and install in the original assembly.

 

The valve for the tundra v8 is 160 dollars. The one for the v6 is 400. Looks like the v8 valve is the same except the electrical connection is to the side. Anyone know if the valve would work on the v6?

 

What are the part numbers? If they the same, use the cheaper ones.

Honestly, I just can't see Toyota using a different part doing the same job on both trucks.