After timing belt change, crank no start

There will be blood!!
Changed the timing belt. Set the belt timing as in TRQ video on the T at the cams and mark on crank sprocket. Changed the belt and all lines on belt were on their marks.
Put the ring and crank timing cover flywheel on. Turned the crank till the I timing marks on the cam and crank mark line up to zero. It all looked good.
I was careful with the cam sensor wiring and the connecter clicked with pin connector.
Any suggestion or help is welcome.....I have pics if requested.

 

What about the crankshaft position sensor? CEL? Codes?

 

Remembered to plug in the MAF and throttle body connections?

 

I never un plugged those but will check...

 

How'd you change the timing belt without unplugging the MAF? Unbolt the entire intake elbow and throw it on top of the power steering reservoir?

Basically go back over and check all the connectors - unplug, check for bent pins, re-plug and click into place.

The truck won't run without the crank position sensor be intact, for example. Also, verify all your grounds. A lot of people like to tag any connector they remove with painters tape, then remove the tape when they plug back in, just so it's obvious if they miss a connector.

 

The MAF is on top the filter box, i never took it off. I took off the round intake at the throttle body and filter box and rolled it on its back on the power st reservoir.
I will start checking connections....thanks

 

I am also in the same boat, truck wont start after doing timing belt and I verified 6 times it was correctly timed. No codes being thrown but will crank and then not turn over. Not sure where to go next. The dealership charges 180 / hr and the local shop charges 130, but said they will diagnose for 135. That same shop has GM master mechanics but they do all kinda of vehicles. Should i go to the locap shop over the dealer?

 

Yesterday code of 0335 crank position sensor
Changed to sensor to new one....had all kinds of problems with the connector wires to sensor.
The wires pulled out of the connector and there was no way to get my hands in the space to reconnect the wires. So I had to fish the wires out and reroute the wires. I reconnected the wires to connector and connected to the sensor.
This morning I ran a scan and had no fault codes, but the motor will not start.
So there are two wires to the connector, red and green... I put the red on the left and green to right on the connector plug... is it possible I need to reverse the wires????
I can't find any other issues with wiring.

 

Will you please post pics of your connector and wires?

 

Any particular wiring or connectors that you want to see?

 

How do I check for voltage at the connectors at the crank and cam sensors....???

 

So I was able to get the truck started.
The issue was when I rerouted the crank position senor wire and added a splice in the wires, I had no continuity from the splice to the connector at the cshaft sensor.
Talked to a buddy about what I had used to splice. He recommended same gauge wire with open barrel crimp splices with shrink rap....
I had used closed barrel splices I couldn't find 20 gauge wire so I used 18 ga.......
After spending most of a day calling parts stores, I found some 2 wire 20 GA at a west marine store....
So I replaced the crappy splice job with one that that went together clean and looked good ...
The engine fired right up.....

 

Yay!

 

I'm pretty sure the crank pos sensor is using shielded cable and is very sensitive to splicing. We shoulda told you that.

 

The wire from west marine is shielded also...I peeled some shield from some of the extra wire. I was able soder the ground strip on new to old. I wrapped the shield around each of the wire splice then heat shrinked each splice...closed it with tape... the shielding is not connected at the splices but it was the best I could come up while sitting under the shade tree.......

 

Sounds like a winner to me.

We find too often the wire harness doesn’t get tucked properly and gets eaten up by belt as a result. I know that warning is in the “so you just bought a 1st gen…?” thread but can’t remember if the shielded wire note is in there. Maybe I need to update it. That thread is in the sticky thread list, definitely worth a read.

 

They tucked my wires too good at the factory. They had to have attached the wire connector to the sensor, pulled the wire tight and using a tab of tan plastic (interior tan plastic 3/8 by 3 inch, 1/8 in thick) they electric taped it to the wire cable and wedged into the corner of the sub frame above the sensor. Once I pulled the connector off the wire it was a dirt road to crapville.
Things to remember
1. The green wire goes on the left, red on right as you look at the connector attached to the crank position sensor
2. The red wire will tone for continuity back to the batter neg terminal. The green will not.