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Adding Amber Light Bar to 2015 Tundra

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by nickthorne33, Mar 4, 2018.

  1. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:41 PM
    #1
    nickthorne33

    nickthorne33 [OP] New Member

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    Hey all, I hope I can get some guidance with this before diving too deep. My father's 2015 Tundra is a construction vehicle, and he has asked me to add in an amber light bar. He and I both want this looking as stock as humanly possible, so we bought a switch that goes right into one of the "knockouts" in the dash, and I'm going to try to run power to it through the OEM fuse box in the engine compartment by adding a 10A fuse in one of the unoccupied spots. I know that there's much easier ways to do it, but I really do want this to look clean for him. On top of that, it's actually my first time working with aftermarket electrical so... Any tips before starting? Or warnings? Thanks!
     
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  2. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:49 PM
    #2
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Most light bars will come with the proper fuse in line so just install the bar and run the switch line through the firewall to install the switch. Hide your wiring and you should be golden.
     
  3. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:50 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Oh yeah, the firewall is a bitch!
     
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  4. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:50 PM
    #4
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    Depending on how much current or "watts" the Amber bar uses...you may want to add a relay in between. Main currentfrom relay goes to battery and + pick off wire to the "knockout" switch..
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
  5. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:51 PM
    #5
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    I pretty much have nightmares to this day....
     
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  6. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:53 PM
    #6
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Call me next time....I have a 3/4” auger bit I used :D:D:D
     
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  7. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:54 PM
    #7
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    The Binford model is better............[​IMG]
     
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  8. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:54 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    @nickthorne33 this was sarcasm......don’t use a 3/4 auger bit
     
  9. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:55 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    It got oil on my driver seat the first time I used the Binford
     
  10. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:56 PM
    #10
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    [​IMG]
     
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  11. Mar 4, 2018 at 7:57 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Yes way!nithing but seruisness from now on....I promise
     
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  12. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:00 PM
    #12
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    I have seen Amber/White combo bars FYI. Check out Amazon. Most LED light bars sold there have the wiring harness included. Fuse/relay/switch...
     
  13. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #13
    nickthorne33

    nickthorne33 [OP] New Member

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    I would have done just that, but the amber light bar we bought didn't come with the "stock" switch, the switch it came with was kind of bulky and ugly, I really don't know where I'd put it. So we bought a switch for a light bar that goes into the knockout, and I still have to mate the two together. Not too bad, I know how I want to wire it to make everything look right, but I have not been underneath the top of the that fuse box, and have not made a hole in a firewall, so that's mostly what I'm looking for!
     
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  14. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:12 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    You shouldn’t need to go in the fuse box unless you just want to. Poking through the firewall and installing the switch should be your only challenge if you’re like the rest of us. The knockout is an easy replacement but the firewall isn’t ere is a pretty beefy boot that is in there pretty well on the driver side. Th passenger side has a nipple you can cut off for easi r access. I just cut a sliver out of my driver side so I could run multiple wires through and used a different switch too.

    Again, you shouldn’t need to use the fuse box unless you just want to.
    @RowdyRon can she’d his light if you want a wiring guru’s advice
     
  15. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:12 PM
    #15
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

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    Like Matt said, there are a lot of options on Amazon. You can find threads on this site for installing the bar behind the grille or even in the hood bulge. It's really not that bad to get a wire through the firewall, those guys, @Almaboy and @matluth are probably writing after having a couple beers :D.
     
  16. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM
    #16
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    It’s illegal to do any wiring or talk about wiring without beer! Check the IBEW by-laws, Warren! Haven’t I taught you anything?
     
  17. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:15 PM
    #17
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

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    Look for the boot near the steering column. Cut the nipple off and fish the wire into the cab. You've got to remove the dash parts under the steering wheel too.
     
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  18. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:16 PM
    #18
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

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    Sorry, I keep forgetting.:cheers:
     
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  19. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:23 PM
    #19
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    One thing that to think about is humidity in the light bar. Make sure you found one that claims waterproof or resistant. Not all do. You will be ever servicing the light if you are in a humid climate if it’s not water tight. I’ve seen guys on here open the glass and silicon the seems of the less water resistant bars.
     
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  20. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:26 PM
    #20
    kcaustin66

    kcaustin66 New Member

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    3” lift, black step bars, aftermarket wheels, LT305/55R20 was this way when I brought it.
    This way will work and fill the gap with expanding foam
     
  21. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:26 PM
    #21
    nickthorne33

    nickthorne33 [OP] New Member

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    Ooh, yeah I may have to check that again. Savannah, GA, almost as humid as it gets!
     
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  22. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:28 PM
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    Eclipsed & Floating

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    Agreed! I moved to CO from Hilton Head about 6 Year’s ago. ITS HUMID!
     
  23. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:28 PM
    #23
    nickthorne33

    nickthorne33 [OP] New Member

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    Expanding foam? I thought that's the stuff you spray in your throttle body and it cleans your cylinders and whatnot
     
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  24. Mar 4, 2018 at 8:31 PM
    #24
    nickthorne33

    nickthorne33 [OP] New Member

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    Hey, small world! I moved here from Michigan about 10 years ago, it was quite a change of scenery!
     
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  25. Mar 5, 2018 at 5:25 AM
    #25
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Where's my popcorn salt? Damnit

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    Yep..I taped the wire to a long awl and poked thru the firewall. Took a couple seconds. It is somewhat of a pain to reach though.
     
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  26. Mar 5, 2018 at 5:38 AM
    #26
    Eclipsed & Floating

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    We have two or three other guys on here that live in that general area.
    Warner Robbins
    Charleston
    Bluffton
    Beaufort
    And a couple more in South Georgia
     
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  27. Mar 5, 2018 at 7:11 AM
    #27
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    Here is how I would wire it up. Not sure if your switch is back-lit or not, but if it is, this would apply:
     

    Attached Files:

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  28. Mar 5, 2018 at 7:16 AM
    #28
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    This is the easiest way I have found to insert wiring through the driver side firewall grommet: Wire insertion tool (Ebay):
    [​IMG]
     
  29. Mar 5, 2018 at 7:22 AM
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    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon Hey! Get off my grass!

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    I would make sure I used a relay (to handle power-hungry accessories such as a light bar) and use in-line fuses for my battery positive hook up as well as the positive for the switch. The switch requires only your 12-volt power to activate the relay to turn on by way of the trigger wire. I don't know how many watts your light bar is but a relay is the safest way to hook up an accessory. Highly encourage you to do it that way.
     
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  30. Mar 5, 2018 at 7:23 AM
    #30
    RickC

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    This has a hollow tube to fish the wires through? If so, that's the ticket and I will be putting a purchase on these. I used a screwdriver to poke the hole in the rubber grommet, then had a heck of a time fishing the wire through. I finally taped my wire to the screw driver and pushed it through, then untapped it and pulled the screwdriver out.
     

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