Adding aftermarket tow package items to increase tow capacity?

Full time RV'ng w/that size of trailer, do yourself a favor and purchase a truck that will safely and more efficiently do what you are asking of it...

The market is strong on Tundra resale right now, and you'd get a premium for your truck given the current market. Plus, you'd save a signficant amount of $$$ in fuel expenses over the course of your travels by having a truck that's working at 50-60% of its capacity vs. a truck that's pushing over 100% of its capacity...

We'd hate for you to get rid of the Tundra, but I'd hate more for you to have a catestrophic failure while towing beyond the limits and capabilities of your current truck.

 

I use a ProPride. It, the wheelbase, and living in the south are likely the only reason I have such a comfortable time pulling this large of a TT.

You've gotten some good responses already, so I'll only add a few more. A small gas tank is annoying when you can only get 125-160 miles. I'd like to swap to the 38 gallon but can't afford the additional weight. Then, getting this big of a rig to a pump isn't any fun (waiting game for the end pumps to open up while trying to not block everyone off). Seeing the diesels pull into the class 8 lanes gets me a little jealous. On grade you've got to just let the horsepower work and watch the fuel gauge drop. For braking, I have to set the brake controller to ~80% because of course the trailer is heavy, but also to keep the hitch's pivoting head pulled taught, meaning I fully anticipate excessive wear on the TT's brakes and a sooner-than-later brake change. On large bends, I have to slow down more so than if I was in an HD. You can find plenty of videos where people are going around bends too fast and watching the TT flip the truck. This long of a trailer exacerbates this effect and I can feel the rear end slightly unload on the inside wheel because the truck doesn't weigh enough. With this overall length you become restricted on where you can take it. And lastly, I'm over GVWR by ~150lbs but not over axle ratings, and that's with me driving alone.

So a bit of a back story as to why I even bother. It's our first TT and we have four kids. There's, like, 0.5% models which offer four individual bunks with a pass through bath. Being new to RVing, we didn't want to make a ~$40K purchase turn into ~$150K (truck plus fifth wheel) without some years to validate the cost. So, I did what was necessary to make the Tundra work (with a few more mods and more PM coming this winter) while selecting a TT which sorta eeked in within its limits. We fully anticipate upgrading in a few years.

 

@M_K another issue that was briefly touched on earlier in the thread is payload. You will max out (maybe even run out of) payload with a 25' camper with a Tundra (regardless of motor/trim/cab/bedlength configuration). Both salesmen (your Tundra and Camper/RV) will keep hammering "tow capacity" which, on their part, is ill-informed at best, and sinisterly misleading at worst. Again, respect for doing the homework/research up front and as was also mentioned before none of us want to crush a dream or plan, but you need to at a minimum reconsider your camper needs, but likely reconsider both the truck and camper configurations.

 

35' trailer, 7000 lbs. That's going to be a lot of strain on your truck every time you tow it regardless of what you do. I'd seriously consider a smaller trailer and then the mods you listed. But that's me and you do what you feel is right. My opinion though is what I stated. All the mods. Not all the trailer.

 

Since you appear set on keeping your truck and getting a 35’ TT, have you looked into trailer relocation services? There are tons out there that will give online quotes. Drive there care free while someone else takes the weight that many do not recommend.

 

I have not read the whole thing, but, OP, you are getting some good solid advice. The weights and the length, I would either go smaller trailer or bigger truck. If you have to have that extra space, then you need to upgrade.

When I was looking for my camper, I had a 5.7. If you are going by a brochure or by a salesman, be very on guard. The salesman who was working with me heard I wanted a trailer that was max 5K weight (loaded). He said I was less than 40% of my capability. Then he said, "You know 40% is a failure grade right?". They are going to sell you the one that gets them the numbers they want.

In your case, the engine is not up to speed for that size. Not only do you need to watch you weight, but then you WILL feel that weight and your engine will be stretched when you start to hit the elevation. Ask me how I know about the elevation. If you make it, it will be just. The fear becomes you might blow your engine by trying to force it, regardless of what WDH, and tongue weight.

You also said you would remove furniture and save about 500lbs. But then count the food you load up, your weight and the weight of anyone that is in the truck. You mention your pets, that gets added for the weight. Finally the tongue weight is without battery and propane tank. That needs to be added as well.

On your truck, if you are able to pull 6K, I would limit your GVW to something 3500 or less.

BUT I am more cautious when I am pulling. Someone else may say you can go more. I don't like to push my rig harder to get to where I want to go.

I would also second some of the other comments. If some of these guys on here are saying "don't", I would listen. They have experience that is worth its weight and gold, and in this case, you will save a lot of money and regret by listening.

Campers are cool, and a lot of memories and fun can be had with them. But we want you to do it safely and efficiently. This is just my .02.

 

@M_K , I forgot about space access. The bigger you get the harder it is to get into spots. ColoradoTJ knows his stuff and I cannot stress to read through these posts and ask the questions. There is a gold mine of information here. You are doing the best thing now. Asking, researching, and learning. That is free.