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6112 Install Questions

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by dpast88, Nov 13, 2020.

  1. Nov 13, 2020 at 5:59 AM
    #1
    dpast88

    dpast88 [OP] New Member

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    All,

    I am gearing up to do a Bilstein 6112 install and would not call myself mechanically inclined (also I have someone helping me that is). I have read through multiple threads on here and watched a couple of videos. I will be doing the method involving swinging out the LCAs but have a couple of questions I came up with. Tagging a bunch of people that I found have done this before and had good info on other threads.

    @equin @glowblue @r1-superstar @Stig @BlackSheep @15whtrd

    1. When loosening LCA cam bolts, several videos show loosening the forward/motor facing side of both the front and rear bolts. The instructions from Toyota seem to contradict that.
    (1) At the front of the arm, loosen the bolt head facing forward.
    (2) At the rear of the arm, loosen the nut facing rearward.
    Can someone shed light on this?

    2. Some videos have people putting red loctite on pretty much every bolt going back in. I thought red loctite is pretty much permanent so this doesn’t seem right. Is red loctite only necessary on certain bolts?

    3. For when everything is out back together, do all the bolts get torqued while the truck is in the air? I have read that the sway bar connection should be done after the truck is on the ground but wasn’t sure about the rest.

    4. I already have a breaker bar, various crows foot wrenches and socket sets, 3 ton floor jack and jack stands, torque wrench, ratchet strap for the UCA/LCA trick, no impact wrench but might buy one. Anything else major I am missing or that may be especially helpful?

    Here are the links that have been most helpful in addition to other threads:

    https://youtu.be/KyloaYxFgU8


    http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/PTR13-34140inst.pdf
     
  2. Nov 13, 2020 at 6:01 AM
    #2
    toyofan87

    toyofan87 Beer thirty

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    Toytec 2.0 Aluma 3/1.5 lift with JBA's UCA Falkens AT3 295/70/18
    Good luck...After pixs.
     
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  3. Nov 13, 2020 at 11:32 AM
    #3
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    White 2015 Tundra DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7L, White 2003 Sequoia 2WD
    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    Don’t loosen the bolt on the LCA’s. Loosen the nut. The bolt, more or less is for adjusting, the nut holds it all into place. You will need a big ass breaker bar. And I had to stand on mine to get it loose. And the other side was like a freaking dead lift LOL. Make sure you follow the torque specs putting it back together. As far as red Loctite. I used high strength, not permanent. There is a difference. Hope this helps. I wouldn’t put any Loctite on the LCA cam bolts as you will need to take it to a alignment shop afterwards. And make sure they follow the torque specs as well. Use the Loctite on the lower knuckle and other components you deem necessary.
     
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  4. Nov 13, 2020 at 11:45 AM
    #4
    BlackSheep

    BlackSheep ol’ Reliable

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    I did not loosen my cam bolts or nuts at all. I found there was enough movement in it to install the longer coilover without. I just removed the two bolts at the knuckle. And I used red loctite on them when reinstalling. I didn't replace my UCAs at the same time, so I never touched those nuts/bolts, either. My memory is a little fuzzy on whether I waited until the truck was on the ground to torque the bolts to spec. I want to say that I did wait, at least for the lower coilover bolts, and the lower shocks bolts on the rears.
     
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  5. Nov 13, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #5
    jalam321

    jalam321 New Member

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    I'll try to answer your questions based on my experience.

    1. If my memory serves me right...You loosen the nut on LCA that is facing towards front of truck. But you may still need a wrench or ratchet to hold the cam bolt other side. When you get under there and look, it will make sense. It may be a good idea to mark them so you can somewhat get it back in place. Even though you will still need to get alignment after.

    2. You don't need to use loctite but it's a good idea to use where you feel is necessary. I did not use any on mine - no issues. Just make sure you torque everything to specs. And like 15whtrd said...don't put loctite on the LCA cam bolts or nuts. They need to be loosened for alignment.

    3. I torqued everything while it was still in the air except sway bar. I found it easier to reinstall the sway bar on the ground, And I torqued the bolts on sway bar while on the ground also.

    4. It sounds like you have tools you need. But double check you have the right sizes And like others have said, you need a long breaker bar. Or get a metal pipe to put on end of breaker bar to help give you more leverage. Pry bars, mallet, dead blow hammer comes in handy also.

    Have fun and good luck!
     
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  6. Nov 13, 2020 at 2:50 PM
    #6
    Kanobi13

    Kanobi13 New Member

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    Front on both cam bolts. each truck is different for install. make sure not to over extend the cv axles fun getting back into place good luck
     
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  7. Nov 13, 2020 at 2:54 PM
    #7
    RollTide82

    RollTide82 New Member

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    I didnt even loosen my lower cam bolts. I did take off upper control arms due to changing them out. I had plenty of play in the arm to install the coilover without binding the cv axles too much. Just pushed down with a pry bar. Also did it by myself so wasn't magic or anything
     
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  8. Nov 13, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #8
    Drainbung

    Drainbung Some days you are the show...

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    Having done this same job on several Tacoma's (same setup) I would not touch the LCA Cam bolts. Once you remove the lower coil mount bolt you can just push the LCA down for the clearance required for R/R of the coil. I've never used Loctite on reassembly but always torque to spec. It's a little intimidating the first time but not that bad a job. Good luck!
     
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  9. Nov 13, 2020 at 3:17 PM
    #9
    glowblue

    glowblue From time to time

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    Agree with @15whtrd - loose the cam bolt nuts. They were ungodly tight on my 2019, I’m no slouch physically but they were a bitch to loosen.

    I had the same tools as you and got it done. An impact wrench is not need but can speed things up.

    You can torque the lower ball joint bolts while the truck is in the air, once you put the tires on there’s no way to do it otherwise. The sway bar links should be torqued under the weight of the truck on the ground. I seem to recall they tell you to torque the LCA cam bolts under the weight of the truck or the bushings will bind.
     
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  10. Nov 13, 2020 at 3:32 PM
    #10
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    It’s been so long I don’t remember all the details. I do remember having to use a floor jack handle over the end of a breaker bar for additional leverage on the LCAs. I posted a thread on here shortly after I did it with some tips, but I can’t seem to find it. Not sure if my thread answers your questions, though.
     
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  11. Nov 13, 2020 at 3:50 PM
    #11
    dpast88

    dpast88 [OP] New Member

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    Wow thanks everyone. Definitely some great insight. I went to Harbor Freight (I know I know....)today and loaded up on cheap tools.

    It seems like there are a number of different opinions on the LCA bolts. I am going to see if it’s possible to get them in without loosening the cam bolts (I doubt I will be so lucky) and if not, I will loosen both the front of both cam bolts. BOSS hasn’t given me a ship date yet but I will be getting the rears early next week to get me started.
     
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  12. Nov 13, 2020 at 3:54 PM
    #12
    equin

    equin Texarican Tundra

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    TRD Rear Anti-sway bar, TRD Pro skid plate, Bedrug bed mat, 17" Icon Rebounds, 315/70/17 BFG AT/K02, Bilstein 6112s front (for now), Fox 2.5 Remote Reservoirs rear, Diamondback SE, Dirtydeeds Industries 8" stainless BAMuffler, aFe dry air filter, TRD air intake accelerator
    I’ve used Harbor Freight tools with no issues. Anyway, I found that old thread of mine:

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/bilstein-6112-diy-install.30001/#post-740569

    Looks like you also may have read it, but maybe it’ll help others reading this who may want to try it themselves. Re-reading it, I noticed grammatical errors and I can see how it may be hard to understand if you’ve never done it before. Sorry about that.
     
  13. May 21, 2021 at 5:46 PM
    #13
    dpast88

    dpast88 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for all the help everyone! Took about 6 hours of back breaking work but it turned out great. Those LCA bolts really were a bitch! Here is the final product. Ironman instead of 6112s.
    D1CCDC20-94E8-4E30-939C-EA7EEC3454C4.jpg
     
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  14. May 24, 2021 at 6:55 AM
    #14
    cain0725

    cain0725 New Member

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    rear is setting lower than the front?
     

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