550hp 2JZ 1978 Hilux Build

AWD will be the next upgrade after the rear axle, but that will be all custom parts and completely replace the entire front suspension so will take awhile.

 

Holy Moly what a fricken ride!!!! I bet everyone around you were totally in shock to see all this happening and then the look of surprise on your face as you wiz on by!!!WOW!!! What a ride! Glad you and everyone around you are alright and no one was harmed.

what a circus ride!!! It was OK till it wasn't!! HA!!!! Back to the shop.

 

Wow! When I first saw that axle wrap I thought you could weld up a quick traction bar setup. Man...glad your ok and it sucks having the tire other stuff wiped out. The learning curve... it's a beast!

 

That was my biggest fear when we were road tripping to AZ and back. Glad you are ok. That could have gone a lot worse.

 

You do keep it interesting and entertaining there is no doubt about that. HA!
Hope getting back on the road goes smoothly!

All The Best

 

If you need a second

 

Perfect for a four rotor or hayabusa or 1uz build

 

I'm moving back to Aurora in May. If it's still available then, it'd be a tempting grab!

 

All that hard work . . .

I had one in red right out of highschool. Lowered that thing and drove the shit out of it. Sold it and bought an '83 4x4 short bed, the absolute best truck I have ever owned !

 

Always good when stuff is falling out before you even pulled the diff







Quick Performance is wickedly quick! I got another tracking number, and I think it's for the axle housing already! Should be here later this week. With the rear stripped down I'll now scan the back and throw everything into CAD to design the brackets, figure out axle placement, look at suspension geometry, and size what shocks to buy. But first I decided to scan the front right again so I can compare them in CAD and see what's bent since visually everything is fine.



Overlaying the two scans is a pain to actually get very close. This position seems the most correct I've come up with, and roughly matches the ball joint position difference I got with the tape measure.



The gist of it is, I think both upper and lower control arms themselves are bent and that results in the hub being pushed to the rear over an inch. I was hoping to find a set of new arms, but so far haven't found anything. For $150 there's a couple options on ebay of used nasty looking arms.




If I can't find any new replacements, I think I will just cut the front of the control arms, bend them back forward, and then weld the arm back together in the correct position. A bit janky, but we're not looking for perfect handling, and the whole front suspension will get deleted in the future anyway.

Next up will be scanning the rear and hopefully this weekend figure out everything to buy for the new axle!

 

That's some gnarly damage, glad you made it through without injury. Are you going to link the rear so axle wrap doesn't bite you again? Or get traction bars of some sort?

 

Yea it's getting linked for sure. Will eliminate axle wrap, and give lots of setup options and adjustability. Traction bars (and ladder bars, and some other styles) have their place, but in my opinion they are a band aid and at the end of the day are not that much different from a materials cost than just linking the rear. In this case there is no reason not to link it, it will (should be) superior in every way and I don't have any constraints that would limit it being linked.

With that said, I still have a lot of homework to figure out the link configuration and I have zero experience with street vehicles. On the plus side, my Chassis Engineering book will actually be applicable for once! I'm not too concerned, street cars have extremely low travel so it makes the link geometry a lot easier compared to a buggy with 24" of wheel travel trying to keep all the parameters somewhat sane during the cycling. I also don't want to make some swiss cheese brackets with a ton of adjustment, I think those look really ugly and again like a band aid for someone who couldn't calculate the geometry. My plan is to have maybe three adjustment holes on the chassis side links (if that) and call it good, try to keep it as simple and elegant as possible.

I had thought about (maybe talked about) getting fancy in the rear, but I decided against that. There's trivial benefit to getting fancy in the back, so things like cantilever shocks, fancy packaging, watts links, etc. are out. I'll save the fancy stuff for the front end where packaging is tight. The rear will just be a pretty conventional 3 or 4 link with some little coilovers.

 

You're probably already aware, but QA1 coilovers are a popular option on lowered early year Tacoma's

https://qa1.net/

 

https://www.stabfab.com/toyota

https://www.stabfab.com/product-page/toyota-pickup-coilover-brackets

 

OH MY!!!!

 

I had looked at them a few weeks ago just in general, they seemed really expensive for what they were I thought. But it's so hard to tell with coilovers if the price is justified.

All the stuff that guy has is only 79+, the 68-78 trucks have no support hahaha