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4.7 timing belt

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by sidewinder81, Jun 20, 2017.

  1. Nov 2, 2019 at 8:40 PM
    #91
    marbleville

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    Air freshener died, washer fluid empty, wipers streak.
    @revtune Thanks for the list, I will compare it to what I receive and pick up what isn't included. I do believe that I have everything but the FIPG (and that square gasket you alluded to).:)
     
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  2. Nov 3, 2019 at 4:42 AM
    #92
    Drfarquad

    Drfarquad New Member

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    I just finished my t belt yesterday on my 05 4.7. It took me 3 gallons to bleed the system, and I got a fourth to top off the reservoir. So it seems people are having all different amounts to be added. Toyota directly told me 2 gallons is all I'll need. If it were me I'd buy more with the plans to return a gallon. Just a heads up.
     
  3. Nov 3, 2019 at 4:45 AM
    #93
    Drfarquad

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    This thing is bad ass by the way, makes burping the system very easy and controlled. If you don't have one I'd say it's worth the 20 bucks. If you plan to keep the truck it'll pay for itself.
     
  4. Nov 3, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    #94
    Icon2000

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    Gotcha
     
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  5. Nov 3, 2019 at 5:47 AM
    #95
    Professional Hand Model

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    Sounds like a great neighborly trade off! Here is a pic of FIPG for OIL areas. You may need the one for non-OIL areas.

    upload_2019-11-3_8-45-33.jpg
     
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  6. Nov 3, 2019 at 6:03 AM
    #96
    Professional Hand Model

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    You seem to get the mechanical aspects pretty well. Just a heads up there is a section on this site where you can look up your Manual/Specs for your specific year, if you don’t still have the glove box hard copy.

    I had your same situation with another Manufacturer giving bad intel on coolant levels/amounts. They don’t post them anywhere because they want you to ‘bring it in for service’.

    Its good to have a little extra as you drive around and maybe up a steep driveway the air will self purge even more so you’ll have to top it off at the reservoir. At least, thats what happened to me.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-maintenance-guide.315/


    upload_2019-11-3_8-54-19.jpg
     
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  7. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:27 PM
    #97
    marbleville

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    Air freshener died, washer fluid empty, wipers streak.
    Unless someone can point out my error, I plan on buying 2 gallons of Prestone antifreeze from WallyWorld at <$11.00 per gallon (this is the undiluted stuff), which would mix at a 50/50 concentration for 4-gallons. As to the FIPG paste, I went with:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEOPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I also bought a spray to use to keep the gaskets from sliding around during assembly, but only if needed:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...PWNF9Z4Z99RNK06T&pd_rd_w=HCkWt&pd_rd_wg=pXgr3

    I want this to go right the first time, so if anyone has any suggestions for add-ons, please speak up.:hattip:
     
  8. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:40 PM
    #98
    revtune

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    Yes, the permatex stuff should work fine. Just make sure the anti freeze is silicate free. I like the Asian (insert brand) vehicle red/pink for the t belt job unless you’re planning on draining the entire coolant system.
     
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  9. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:40 PM
    #99
    Festerw

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    If you have the Toyota red coolant now I'd recommend the Zerex Asian or Pentofrost A1 which are a closer match than the universal Prestone.
     
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  10. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:45 PM
    #100
    marbleville

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    Yes, it is my plan to drain the cooling system and replace with new. And I will do a little more sleuthing to check out the Prestone's composition.:monocle:
     
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  11. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:48 PM
    #101
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    This. @marbleville either use Toyota, Zerex(Asian blend) or Aisin(not Asian). I wouldn't use Prestone.
     
  12. Nov 3, 2019 at 1:56 PM
    #102
    marbleville

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    @FirstGenVol Why is it that you wouldn't use Prestone? It is considerably less expensive and quite possibly the #1 selling antifreeze - why are so many customers buying it if it is wrong? I am aware of the others at nearly 3x the cost.
     
  13. Nov 3, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #103
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Nothing wrong with Prestone as a company it's just that our vehicles require a specific type of coolant. They shouldn't be 3x the cost.

    Wal-Mart has Zerex for $16.

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-Premixed-1-gallon-jug-sold-by-each/904620764
     
  14. Nov 3, 2019 at 2:19 PM
    #104
    marbleville

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    Yes they do have Zerex @ $16 per gallon for pre-diluted antifreeze. So 2 gallons of that, to equal one gallon of the Prestone concentrate (which you dilute to 50/50 mix for 2-gal.) comes to $32 versus $10.87, that is just shy of 3x. And Prestone has no silicates.

    [edit] My model year predates the HOAT chemistry that I believe the Zerex is based on. The Prestone is a universal antifreeze and contains no silicates as I noted earlier.

    Since I am going to drain the coolant and refresh with new, I have also decided to replace the radiator cap with new. After 18 years, the spring and seal may have become weak or compromised, and at this point replacing seems to be a good idea.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2019
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  15. Nov 3, 2019 at 3:11 PM
    #105
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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  16. Nov 3, 2019 at 3:15 PM
    #106
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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  17. Nov 3, 2019 at 3:25 PM
    #107
    marbleville

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    Gentlemen...because we are unable to discuss things face to face, there are times when we misread the other's response which sometimes creates an adversarial taint to the discussion(s). In that vein, please accept the following as my feelings on answers that do not meet my initial view(s).

    I have NO problem with answers and/or statements that do not coincide with my own. If anything, they push me to acquire more info on the subject, as I hate being wrong, besides the fact that I am a researcher at heart. If Jonny says something that runs contrary to my opinion, I typically check my position, stand and rebut if necessary, or capitulate and acknowledge my error. Nothing personal, I take no pleasure in proving someone wrong, rather I just wish for the real facts to speak for themselves. I also take no pleasure in admitting I am wrong, but the process also requires that. And if there is no cut answer, I like to state that as well. And I will admit to stating opinion when facts are more due, and I accept my fate when I do and get caught in it. It comes off-the-cuff, and is not meant to deceive, but rather to participate, though in unintentional error, with the conversation. By all means call me on it should it be necessary. It is my belief that we are never too old to learn, which works for me, the old dog that I am. Peace.:hattip:
     
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  18. Nov 3, 2019 at 8:39 PM
    #108
    JTRCY

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    I just purchased my 2006 double cab 4x4a few weeks ago, with 208K miles. I was able to login to toyota.com and see the numerous dealer service records from mile 1 to mile 195K. surprisingly, no timing belt listed. Actually called the dealership and asked if there was a chance it had been done but not entered into the system. She said no chance - it's automatic.

    Anyways, finally had a chance to pull back the timing cover and inspect and it's fairly cracked and dry looking from that vantage point. Absolutely no chance of mistaking it for a new belt, that's for sure. Figured due to the upcoming weather and increasing lack of either daylight or time, I might have someone do it for me, but regardless, I just ordered the kit from Amazon for 166 and might just tackle it. Haven't yet sold off my prior vehicle and so I'll keep it for a bit of overlap to allow the repair.

    Thinking a new radiator too as it's the original Toyota Rad. Anyone have an opinion on that if it's not currently leaking? I know for the 2nd gen 4runners, the trans cooler lines ran thru the radiator and are prone to bursting and it basically toasts the trans and engine pretty much immediately. Are internal cooler lines an issue with the 1st gen Tundra's?
     
  19. Nov 4, 2019 at 6:08 AM
    #109
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    At 200K miles I would replace the radiator. It's a cheap part and easy to swap. The "pink milkshake" can happen but most here seem to think it's fairly rare.
     
  20. Nov 4, 2019 at 7:08 AM
    #110
    speedtre

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    If you want to buy Prestone, just make sure it's Toyota specific Prestone...

    http://prestone.com/vehiclespecific...ium\u003dsocial\u0026utm_content\u003dvehicle
     
  21. Nov 4, 2019 at 7:19 AM
    #111
    Festerw

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    I think we've corrupted @marbleville , after the DexIII conundrum I think it's progress he's considering anything besides Toyota red.
     
  22. Nov 4, 2019 at 7:24 AM
    #112
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol I complain about my mods

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    Yeah I just don't have the energy to debate it. If I can buy Zerex for $16/gallon that's what I'm going to do. It's been proven to be safe for our trucks.

    Marbles, if your research has indicated that Prestone is ok then go for it.
     
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  23. Nov 4, 2019 at 7:32 AM
    #113
    Festerw

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    To further confuse things, I'm acutally using Zerex G-05 in my Tundra since it works with my wife's Durango too :)
     
  24. Nov 4, 2019 at 8:03 AM
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    marbleville

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    Ya know, Zerex G-05 is not recommended for our Tundras according to Zerex's own chart.
     
  25. Nov 4, 2019 at 8:38 AM
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    Festerw

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    Yup and it's been in there 2 years anyway. It's the same HOAT type which I think is the bigger issue than phosphate vs silicate coolant. As usual YMMV.

    Next summer it's getting flushed for a fresh fill anyway.

    IMO coolant type doesn't make a huge difference if it isn't mixed with different types. Use whatever you want as long as you do a sacrificial fill with distilled water in between changing types.
     
  26. Nov 4, 2019 at 9:13 AM
    #116
    marbleville

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    It's all about the money...to fix a broken transmission because of the wrong fluid would really hurt, financially. I couldn't afford a mistake. By going with what the transmission experts advise about staying with the fluid it was designed for, I feel confident I won't have to revisit the tranny fluid for another 90,000 miles, and I probably won't be driving anything but my nurses crazy by then. As to my using a particular anti-freeze, it wouldn't have such a dramatic effect on my budget, especially with me flushing it regularly, say every three years or so. Much easier to stay attuned to the cooling system and make corrections than the transmission, IMHO.

    Somethings I will buy OEM and some will be the best I can afford from other manufacturers. The key for me is finding out which of the after market parts producers I can trust to meet the quality I expect. Case in point - Moog - are they still a producer of quality parts or not? And because my former trucks and such were domestic, I have to learn a completely new set of trusted vendors, etc., for my Japanese import made in Tennessee, I believe.:rolleyes:
     
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  27. Nov 4, 2019 at 9:20 AM
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    mk19

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    I did my 2004 4.7L at 12 years/140k miles, and I have to tell you, the belt looked like new. So did the water pump and all of the other components. I did it only as preventative maintenance.
    If I were to do it again, I'd pull one of the plastic T'belt covers and get a good look at the toothed side of the belt, looking to cracking etc., and if it looked fine, then I'd wait for some good reason to get in there, like a leaking water pump, and then I'd do it. Or maybe at 200k miles or so. Maybe 250k miles even.
     
  28. Nov 4, 2019 at 9:29 AM
    #118
    marbleville

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    Labor for changing the timing belt is the killer, not the parts in my estimation. Since I plan on doing it myself, with a professional mechanic at my elbow advising me as I go, I am confident that just changing it is the best for me. At his advice I am also planning on doing an R&R of the serpentine belt tensioner, pulley, belt, upper and lower radiator hoses, and the thermostat. Again, I don't plan on ever doing it again, and the reassurance that it will be kosher sits well with me.:monocle:
     
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  29. Nov 4, 2019 at 9:52 AM
    #119
    mk19

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    Sounds good. I agree, the parts are minimal. I made more or less the same decision to go at it proactively.
    You should consider replacing the water pump too...…..you'll be in there and that's the bulk of the work.
     
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  30. Nov 4, 2019 at 9:53 AM
    #120
    revtune

    revtune New Member

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    Good plan, I’m also thinking and from reading other post on the matter, that a lot of times it’s not the actual timing belt that breaks it’s the wear and tear on the other components that make the belt jump.
     

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