3rd Gen Suspension Lift - MEGA THREAD

I know I'll be opening a can of worms, but need an opinion of lifting an SR5 TRD-OR with the 3.5" Rough Country kit? Does anyone on the forum currently possess the 3.5" RC lift? I want the stance and height without my wallet becoming the width of my driver's license. I don't want a leveling kit. I'm not planning to due any serious off-roading, as I am heavy highway commuter. Are kits and lifts a personal preference item or are there advantages to having them? Thanks.

 

When is the TC / King 3.0"s coming out!!?

 

I want to thank all of you guys for great information.

Would appreciate help with rear spring dilemma I have.

I have a King 2.5 coilovers and rear shocks, both with adjusters on order.

My problem is that I do not want to get level suspension on stock load. I like a bit rake no load, and level with about 300lbs load.

Kings come with about 1.8-1.9 set lift over stock. To be honest I do not really want more than that. Now, I am thinking of buying 1 inch lift spacer for the rear coils. I do not want to sacrifice ride quality over stock.

Some of you guys have used Dobinson and OME springs at the rear. I don’t mind a spring with 2 inch lift with stock load, but would like soft stock rates. Are Dobindon and OME springs significantly higher in their rate? Looking at actual pictures of the springs, one would think so.

Would appreciate some help whether I would benefit from new springs or stick with stocks and a spacer.

PS: picture below is what I have stock

 

Dobinsons came out with a whole new list of rear springs. You got full king setup then you can choose any spring you want and adjust the front for the rake you want it to have. Liner spring VS progressive

 

How long is the wait on a king set? Do you guys switch out the spring rate if I wanted to, say a 700lb?

 

Thanks for the info. I will give them a call tomorrow. I think progressive is what I need, I’m not racing the truck.

I would rather go with spring upgrade than spacers, although at the rear it is a different story.

 

I just purchased and waiting for my OME 2866 progressive rates to come, I installed 2864’s but those bad boys can carry some weight! Wow. Too stiff ultimately for my set up. Even loaded I have about a 3” lift in the rear.

Anything particularly hard about swapping out springs? I was traveling when my 2864’s were installed so a shop did them.

 

Not hard at all, just have to unbolt the sway bar and top shock mount and drop the axle a little(use a jack stand), to make enough room to pull out the coil. I would also loosen the brake line to give a little more slack. Btw, where did you get the hood vinyl?

 

Thanks for the info

My decal came from a guy who does it on the side for his sign business. https://www.tundras.com/posts/2747449

 

I saw what PapaDave418 had and showed that to local tint shop that was doing my windows. Asked them if they could do something like that but make the TRD Off Road in red. Here is what they came up with:



I recently traded that Limited DC MGM for a Plat CM MBM. Kinda miss that truck.

 

Hi, could you please let me know difference between OME 2866 and 2864?

What is the expected lift at the rear and recommended load?

Can't find spec sheets for these...
Thx!

 

http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_OME_coils.html

 

What he said.

They are about 3/4” shorter and progressive springs. The 2864 have a 320lb rating and 2866 are 260/300lb rating or so. I’m not looking at the chart but as I recall. The forward rake still there fully loaded and I have a CBI stealth bumper and winch going on soon so the front will compress more, furthering the rake. So I figured little more squish in the back, a tad lower in the front. Someday I’ll splurge for a proper king set up and adjust the front coilovers vs my Westcott lift.

 

Y’all should cross reference pricing on Amazon used stuff. I got a set of used ARB 2865 for $140 before tax. Won’t go onto the truck until April tho.

 

Does anyone know the rear shock lengths? (stock)
Compressed & Extended

 

Unfortunately you would have to swap out the spring if you had something more custom you were looking for.
As of right now we should have a batch of shocks coming in April. I would call and get on the list if you are ready to purchase.

 

No official timeline yet. In process.

 

Just talked to the boys over at toytec here in CO, looks like they are planning a roll out in the coming month with an airbag delete kit for those of us with load leveling suspension. Cost should be similar to the 2.5 series alumas.

 

Guys, I've been reading for a few weeks and PMing asking questions and I stilll feel extremely lost. I'm upgrading my Tacoma sport to a tundra trd sport 4x4.

all I want is to get the dang thing on 35s while keeping OEM trd 20in wheels

I have no intention to off-road. But I'm willing to fork out some cash for icon stage 4 if that needs to be the case....i tend to prefer the westcotts because I've seen their video of preload collar install on the sport and only adding a 3mm wheel spacer got these wheels to fit.

my question is, why does icon have a recommded wheel 17x8.5" w/ 5.75" Backspace / 25mm Offset.

Is there are difference between 3-3.5 lifts where offset makes a huge difference? I thought that was purely aesthetic.

Do I need to drop diff for either of those?
Would I need new Ucas for the westcotts? They say you don't need them but people say anything above 2.5inch lift you should get it.
Do I need ext brake lines for the 3-3.5inch lift even though I'm not off-roading?


the more I read, the more questions I have and it's a freaking rabbit hole! Any help will definitely save my sanity.

Before I get hate: I'm trading in two paid off vehicles for this tundra to be my absolute last vehicle and I want to be happy with the way it looks. Trd sport just looked the best to me. I just didn't know how much a hassle lifting it would be! Maybe it's easier than I'm thinking idk

 

Put 35s on the 20s get the westcotts 3/1 you won’t need UCA or break lines and you won’t have to worry about any of that other stuff.

 

Keep on reading up, I believe a 35” will fit without a lift but trimming is definitely needed.

But if you want a little lift, bare minimum and most cost effective would be going with the Westcott Designs 3/1 collar lift, with 35x11.50/20 on stock TRD Wheels with no additional wheel spacers. There have been a few post and pictures about needing a spacer, but it definitely wouldn’t hurt to run it with a pair. If you go this route, your ride will stiffen up a bit due to tire choices being mostly a 10 ply load range E for 20” wheels with more an aggressive pattern like a mud or all terrain tire. Make sure you follow Wescotts Alignment specs for his kit.

If you’re willing to spend the cash a full suspension line the icon set up will give you a better ride, with a sportier feel, this is due to the fact that your buying better and longer shocks that doesn’t meets its limits like a preload collar with stock Toyota shocks. You can even look into rough country kits as well, but I’d stay with icon if it were me. Other than that, you wouldn’t need anything else like brake line extensions brackets etc…

 

http://cornfedsuspension.com/cornfed22tundra/

same theory but cheaper than Westcott. Same results as westcott

 

Is the uca on the Trd Pro different? Can you purchase a set of Trd pro oem shock and bolt them right onto any other model tundra ? Thanks

 

Only the TRD 3” lift kit has new UCA and trailhunter….

 

Trd Pre Runner Pro build.
Now I made to find a set.

 

One more question for the group. I emailed Dobinsons about their kit and told them I plan on running a Diamondback bedcover. They recommended their 2” spring in the rear. Is the diamondback cover that heavy it’ll level with a2-2.5” front lift? Lol my guts telling me to just go with the 1”, but I want to be sure.

 

The cover won’t do anything, I think altogether my cover is like 70lbs or so

 

That’s my thoughts. Your bed doesn’t drop like an inch with the cover right?

If that’s the case I’ll just go with the 0-110lb 1”. Now I would expect it to drop when I haul my 400lb motorcycle.

 

Rather than help you speculate on the compression, let me help you learn to fish vs. giving you a fish. I'm sure you know this, but if not...here's some help.

At it's most basic, you need to 2 things to calculate suspension compression:
1) The weight of your gear (I.E. Payload) = A guesstimate of the weight of stuff over the rear axle
2) The spring rate of any coil = This tells you how many lbs it takes to compress a coil spring 1"

Sample Scenario:

• I'll use the OME 2863, which is similar to the Dobinsons C59-169, and gives about a 2" lift in the rear.
• The spring rate is 250 lbs; so it takes 250 lbs to compress the coil 1".
• Example gear setup: According to BakFlip, a BakFlip MX4 on a 6.5' bed weights about 80 lbs. If you put the bed cover on plus another 100 lbs in gear (traction boards, recovery gear, compressor, tools, snow chains, whatever) then your total is ~ 180lbs.
• 180 lbs is 72% of 250 lbs.
• 72% of 1" is roughly 3/4".
• As a result, you can roughly expect the rear to drop 3/4 of an inch with those springs plus that gear setup.

In your scenario, assuming the Diamond Back does weigh only 70 lbs (I'm guessing have the short bed?), then you can expect roughly a 1/4" of drop when using the Dobinson C59-169 springs. That is assuming the Diamond Back cover is the ONLY thing you have in or on the bed.

Of course, there are more factors at play if you want to calculate a hyper accurate drop...but this is directionally accurate enough for most peeps.

Hope that helps. Cheer!