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3rd gen 2014+ DIY transfer case oil change

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Pudge, Sep 20, 2019.

  1. Sep 20, 2019 at 5:20 PM
    #1
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    First off I am sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. I figured i should take a few pics as I went but I'm no photographer.

    Items needed:

    A 3/8" drive ratchet, a 3" extension helps. The plugs accept a 3/8" drive square ratchet thing. No sockets or attachments needed, just the ratchet. And they snap in tight too which is nice.

    2 liters of Toyota or Ravenol 75w oil
    Yes you have to buy expensive 75w oil for the T case, DO NOT SKIMP OUT ON THIS. 2 liters is only around $35 on Amazon. DO IT RIGHT!!!
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QPCL7ZE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

    Some heat rated teflon tape, I'm sure regular T-tape is fine though

    A drain bucket or container of some sort

    1 beer and/or 1 nice big lipper, yes you only need 1 of either, or both because the job is that quick and easy. I chose dip, I drank my beer after.

    About 20-30 minutes of your time, most of this is letting the old oil drain and applying teflon tape to the plugs.

    Step 1 is to locate your transfer case. This is pretty simple but I'm sure has been screwed up so please be sure you are working on the right part. There is a skid plate under it that i chose not to remove because there is a drain hole in it to allow fluid to weep out and I'm lazy.
    Step 2 is located the drain and fill plugs on said transfer case. They are actually metal stamped FILL and DRAIN on the case. Obviously the fill is higher than the drain.
    Step 3 loosen the FILL plug first, this ensures you will be able to refill your fluid after draining it out. Then fully remove the fill plug once you know it will come loose. In my case both plugs were barely hand tight, and I had no leaking.
    Step 4 is to loosen and remove the drain plug. Be sure you have your container underneath the drain to catch the very thin oil that is about to spill out all over the place. Again it is not very tight at all. Idk the torque specs but it's not much.
    Step 5 is to wipe and clean off the plugs and wrap new teflon tape on the threads. While you are doing this the remaining fluid should pretty much have escaped the case.
    Step 6 put the drain plug back in and torque to spec, which again isn't much but idk how many Ft Lbs
    Step 7 open your super awesome Ravenol 75w oil that has a cool built in filler neck thing that makes filling the T case a breeze. Pour the new oil into the FILL hole, it's very easy with this cool spout included and there is plenty of room to do so. If your engine is cold, you could even rest the bottle on the exhaust pipe and let it slowly drain hands free. It takes 1.6 liters according to how much I added til it started to spill over the fill hole and a few things I have read.
    Step 8 is to put the fill plug back in and torque that to spec.
    Step 9 is clean up, put away tools, dispose of the old oil properly, and enjoy your beer that is still ice cold because this job took no time at all.

    I didn't have to use my oil hand pump thing that is pictured because the Ravenol containers have the cool built in spout.

    That's it. I think anyway, it was very easy and very quick. I changed my rear differential oil a few days ago and this was much easier. I have 40k miles on my truck at the time of this oil change, the oil came out pretty damn clean but I'm glad I changed it. I don't change from 2wd to 4wd too often, maybe a few times a month in the winter and then whenever I remember to exercise the T case every few months.

    I had already removed both the drain and fill plugs before I took any pics, that's why you see the plugs in the first pic. You re use the plugs that you remove. And there are no gaskets or washers of any kind on either plug.
    The underside of my truck looks wet and oily, I know this. It is soaked in fluid film for the upcoming onslaught of snow, ice, sand, salt, and whatever other chemicals the DOT puts on the roads here in CT.
    If I missed something of you have any questions or comments, please feel free to post them here.

    20190920_192415.jpg
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    20190920_192857.jpg
     
    TTund16, 15whtrd, justfortun and 6 others like this.
  2. Sep 20, 2019 at 5:51 PM
    #2
    trailrnr

    trailrnr New Member

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    On my list of autumn maintenance to dos.

    Thanks for the awesome write up!
     
    Pudge [OP] likes this.
  3. Sep 20, 2019 at 6:00 PM
    #3
    Jrharvey02

    Jrharvey02 Meh.

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    Thanks! Maybe somebody can chime in and verify if this is the same for a 2nd gen as well?
     
    Pudge [OP] likes this.
  4. Sep 20, 2019 at 6:10 PM
    #4
    tacomawv

    tacomawv New Member

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    Close but it does not call for the 75 wt oil and has 24 mm bolts that will need new washers. Not 100% on the oil type for the second gen.
     
  5. Sep 20, 2019 at 6:45 PM
    #5
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    Thank you for answering that question, I wasn't sure myself.
    This was such an easy job of my 2015. I remember doing it on my 08 Tacoma and recall it being a pain in the ass.
     
  6. Sep 21, 2019 at 2:02 AM
    #6
    Scuba

    Scuba Sober member

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    Oil type is 75W90.
    More readily available than the 75W used in this writeup.
     
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  7. Sep 21, 2019 at 5:26 AM
    #7
    BlueRibbon4x4

    BlueRibbon4x4 New Member

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    Nice write up! Thanks for this.
     
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  8. Sep 21, 2019 at 9:04 AM
    #8
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    75w is what is called for in 3rd gen transfer cases. Some have used 75w90 and had bad outcomes and poor results. Idk if 2nd gen tundras call for 75w or 75w90.
    I do know that for 2014 and up, you have to buy and use the 75w.

    Maybe a mod could sticky this in the DIY mods section.
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  9. Sep 21, 2019 at 2:58 PM
    #9
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    I have a 3rd gen. 5.7 liter. 75W for its transfer case.

    My understanding is that the 2nd gen. is a DIFFERENT transfer case with a different oil spec'd >>>>75W-90.

    I would not say that this is a potato/potatoe.
     
    15whtrd and Pudge [OP] like this.
  10. Sep 21, 2019 at 4:02 PM
    #10
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    Yup, two very different transfer cases, toyota switched in 2014. There was a thread somewhere about it. I shifted from 2wd to 4wd and back a couple times today and it was smooth as could be.

    Next up is front diff oil. It takes 2.2 quarts and I will take pics again and post them up. Toyota calls for 75w85 but 75w90 is safe.

    I already did the rear did but didn't take pics.The rear diff takes 3.8 quarts of 75w85 but it is okay to use the more readily available 75w90 from my research.

    All in all the front and rear differentials will take a total 6 quarts of 75w-85/90. I used mobil 1 synthetic cuz it had a decent price and I had a coupon too.
    The transfer case take 1.7 liters (not quarts) of 75w. Ravenol or Toyota brand are the only choices that I know of.
    These are numbers and specs for 3rd gen tundras, 2014+
     
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  11. Sep 21, 2019 at 6:31 PM
    #11
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    The fill plug will test your patience and tool creativity a bit. I was able to snake enough extensions to get my small impact gun on it to break it loose.
     
  12. Sep 21, 2019 at 6:32 PM
    #12
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    Great :mad::mad::mad:
    I hope i have the tools to get it done.
     
  13. Oct 1, 2019 at 8:40 AM
    #13
    sundance

    sundance New Member

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    I'm just going to add my penny. I changed my transfer case oil at about 60,000. So I had 15,000 miles on the Ravenol oil. I noticed people were complaining about rough shifting into 4wd recently. So.... I tried mine. Hadn't tried in a while and sure enough. BIG clunk. I tried it several times all of them were the same. I finally decided to order the Toyota oil and change it to see if it fixed the issue.....and it did. Granted, it got a little better right before I changed it. I've uploaded a picture of how differently the oil looks. I'll let you guess which one is the Toyota oil. Straight from Japan. I hated to pay for it but the hard shifting is gone. Just thought I would share.

    0929191845b_HDR.jpg
     
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  14. Oct 1, 2019 at 8:42 AM
    #14
    sundance

    sundance New Member

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    MY ratchet fit just flush enough. Dead blow a couple of times and off it came.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
  15. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:35 AM
    #15
    NCSkeeter

    NCSkeeter New Member

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    Why the Teflon tape? I’ve never heard the need for this in any type of oil change.
     
  16. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:38 AM
    #16
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    There is no washer or gasket and the plugs I removed appeared to have teflon tape on them from the factory. So I went ahead and put new tape on after cleaning the plugs. I figured if Toyota put T tape on them when they installed them, then I would do the same
     
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  17. Oct 1, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    #17
    sundance

    sundance New Member

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    The threads are pipe threads. I used oil resistant paste. Just don't get any on the inside.
     
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  18. Oct 2, 2019 at 4:00 AM
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    Bammer

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    Nice write up ! Thank you :thumbsup:
     
  19. Oct 2, 2019 at 5:24 AM
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    bigandtall

    bigandtall New Member

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    I've always been confused as to why the Toyota maintenance guide shows to never change this if driving under normal conditions. I think the differentials are treated the same way. Just doesn't make sense. Nice write up! I'll use this write up sooner than later!
     
  20. Oct 2, 2019 at 5:29 AM
    #20
    sundance

    sundance New Member

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    Personally, I don't know that you need to change it. When I changed mine, there really was almost zero wear to the oil. Differentials, that is a different story. There is much more wear associated with differentials.

    Toyota does recommend changing the oil in the transfer case and differentials based on driving conditions. It just doesn't jump out at you in the maintenance manual.
     
  21. Oct 2, 2019 at 6:54 AM
    #21
    TRDPROSean

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  22. Nov 10, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #22
    Backslider

    Backslider Thirsty...

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    I'm about to change the front and rear diff and transfer case oil on my 4runner. It calls for the same 75W that the Tundra does. I'm bouncing back and forth between the Ravenol and Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans oil, which is also supposed to be a 75W and is listed as an acceptable substitute for the Toyota 75W requirement.

    My question is this; have you noticed any change when shifting in and out of 4wd with the Ravenol? I am a fan of German oil products like Liqui-Moly and Ravenol, but I like Royal Purple as well.. Just trying to make a decision here. =\
     
  23. Nov 10, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #23
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    I have only shifted in and out of 4wd a handful of times since changing the fluid. Just to test it out, and it's been very smooth, no different than the OEM fluid. We will have snow here soon so I'll have more to report when the weather changes. I highly recommend the Ravenol, but if you can find a 75W fluid that is okay by toyota then go for it. I did read about some transfer case specific fluids not being good but I cant speak for royal purple
     
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  24. Nov 10, 2019 at 7:20 PM
    #24
    Backslider

    Backslider Thirsty...

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    I just barely placed an order for the Royal Purple. It seems to be the only company out there that feels confident enough to claim officially that this is a replacement that meets all specs of Toyota LF Gear oil.

    http://www.royalpurple.com/wp-conte...le_Transmission_Lubricant_Cross_Reference.pdf

    I've read a lot from satisfied people who have used both the Royal Purple, the Ravenol, and even some that use a regular 75W90. Most report that Toyota dealers just use a bulk 75W90 =\

    I'm sure all are fine.. Thanks for the response. I'll report back here with my experience just in case anyone else is watching.
     
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  25. Nov 10, 2019 at 7:35 PM
    #25
    Pudge

    Pudge [OP] Sap Wizard

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    Keep up posted.
     

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