3D Printable Tundra Model

Don't forget the TRD Pro bed stamps

 

I'm new to 3d printing but id be happy to test it out when ready. Id love to make something that would fit my axial scx24. Don't get me wrong, the c10 body on it looks great but if i could make something match the tundra that would be awesome.... I'd just have to figure out how to model some nfab podium step bars and my roof top tent setup. i know there are tons of roof top tent models to print...

 

There will be a pro version. Maybe @Tundra234 would make us some mini TRD decals also.

 

BTW.... that's looking awesome

Can we get the Pro version w/295s??? that is if they'll fit on a stock Pro suspension

PS>>> Great work!!!!

 

Not so elegant door hinge solution:

 

I need it

 

Boys, I'd estimate we're about 90% done with the modeling. Working on smoothing out the surfaces and making sure everything fits and is able to be printed. I'd say we'll be ready to test print some pieces next week sometime.

 

Looks amazing!! May have to start with a metallic black PLA and see how she looks. You are doing an amazing job, keep up the great work!

 

Not sure how these will turn out, but we'll see. Tread pattern is modeled after Wildpeak AT3s and ratios are from 295/70/r18

 

Wheel is a separate piece that slides into the tire and on to the Axel.

As far as the axels go, I've been thinking about trying some 5 mm carbon fiber rods like used in rc planes, but wood or metal could work too.

 

Amazing work, but I gotta ask; what's up with this part of the fender?

 

I'm still trying to get that right. The hood and fenders have some crazy curves that have led to me remodeling each of them about 4 times.

These are the 30 sketches for the hood, not including the ones for the scoop and bulge.

 

I see alot of interests in people wanting to buy one of these.

 

Did you put wheel spacers on that thing?? The 'poke' seems a bit off on the head on shot and the last photo depicting the rear tire/fender relation as well; maybe dial the tire size back just a little

 

Decided to mess around with "lifting" this bad boy. I'm working in 1:24 scale and since 1 inch = 25.4mm, for our purposes 1mm is almost equivalent to one inch.
Here's the base height:


Here's a 2.5mm"

And here's what 6mm would look like:

 

Wow, awesome job. I've wanted to get into 3D modeling, however it is an investment. Kudos! I'd love to know what applicatio(s) you've been using and your general thoughts on each.

Also, if you need some test printers, I am happy to volunteer.

 

With the current tires, I vote that the 2.5 looks the best.

 

Good call. I was working with the frame that everything was based and the proportions of the tire/wheel while still giving myself a flat surface for printing. So without having to change everything I made some cutouts in the frame so the tires could still be somewhat proportional, tucked-in, and not forcing me to re-model each of the components.

I'll have both versions available to download and one could use some 5mm washers as "wheel-spacers"

 

I agree, the 2.5 looks best with that tire setup.........

 

i want in. will it print on an ender 3?

 

News and Notes:

• V 1.0 Modeling 99.9% is complete! I'm currently going over each component for "printability" and packaging each piece for testing.
• Click here to take a brief survey if you are interested in helping test print. More info on that to come. We'll set up a group chat on GroupMe to chronicle our progress.
• For those interested in utilizing this for your RC car, sorry but V1.0 likely won't be of use. The original intent was to create a printable model, not something that can be used and abused. That will likely come in v2.0.
• Rear Doors will not open and close. I cant make it work without remodeling the entire cab and the front doors. As we test print if someone can figure it out, we'll go from there.
• Other items needed to complete the model:

1. Axel Rod
2. Door Hinge rod
3. Hood Rod
4. Tailgate Rod
5. Tailgate Magnets
6. Door Magnets

• Looming Questions/Concerns:

1. Push-Fit Connections
2. Filament
3. Layer Height/Infill/Print Settings
4. Viable Scales to print in

 

For most people, a full model will only be able to print in 1:24 and 1:18, as the frame length is the limiting factor due to bed size.

 

Hi wonder if any one has like a commercial grade 3d printer

 

OK Fellers... I also belong to a BBQ Forums and there is a feller on there that is building a 3d printer with his other 3d printer.. I asked him to come look at this thread and to see if he had any input... He said he also built a 4runner body for his RC car but didn't like it... This is one of the reasons he's building a new printer... If anybody's interested in his build... Or might be able to gain some input... Here's a link to the thread... He say's that y'all are trying to make the frame to big witht the printer you have... To make it 2 pieces and glue it together... But anyways... here's the link...

https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/building-a-3d-printer-with-my-3d-printer.325690/