1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

3 Week Build: Drax

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by 18robinson.jacob, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. Jun 9, 2018 at 6:21 PM
    #1
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    Greetings all Tundra owners!

    I would like to introduce Drax, my new first gen tundra, and myself into this community.

    I will start with the basic mumbo-jumbo.

    Drax is a 2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4 Gold/Grey/Silver
    He has the 4.7L V8 with approx. 145k miles on it. Everything to mine and my father-in-laws (FIL) knowledge is original to the truck with the exception of a few new pieces latter mentioned.

    [​IMG]

    Now for the story...

    I just graduated college and needed a new vehicle to commute to and from work, plus I needed something I can load at least two dirt bikes (me and the Fiancee), plus something I can take offroad when I am feeling adventurous, plus something I can take to Mexico (baja) and just enjoy! I was talking with my FIL and he told me he had the perfect truck but it needed 'some' work. (He owns a bodyshop so he has access to buying some pretty cool wrecked stuff). He told me that the frame on the truck is bad and all I had to do was swap it out. After talking with a Toyota/ Lexus mechanic he told me that it takes two techs 20 hours each, or 40 hours total to swap the truck frame out. Me being who I am and was thinking that I could do it in 60 hours because this was my first real build and honestly inexperienced. I told my FIL my budget and he thought it was totally doable. Again, me being who I am, I immediately started looking for a frame.

    Okay, so there is the back story behind why/ how I got access to the truck. My FIL is a great guy and such a large help, without him, his shop, and knowledge I would still be working on it today.

    I have ALOT of information about to hit you. I think I am only going to post the helpful pictures to show you the amount of work that actually went into the truck. I will have all my other pictures in an album that I do not know who can or cannot access.

    To make this more complex I have two names. Tundra A and Tundra 2.0.

    Tundra A has a bad frame but good everything else.
    Tundra 2.0 is the good frame with everything else.

    This is the guideline I'll be using: the topic/ what I did. [explaining the best, I can now I did it.] (any comments I made after, some useful some not.)


    Day One:

    Drove from Flagstaff to Prescott. Got organized on where to work. Got the frame lifted off the trailer but still on the trailer and realized the frame is twisted and there is a spot on the front where its bent inwards. We were able to determine it was twisted because the main box of the frame wasn’t sitting on the boards like it was supposed to. All in all, it's a bad frame. Father in law calls the junkyard we got it from and they let us swap it out for another on condition we show them the problems. I drive from Prescott to South Phoenix. I show up and show everything and they put another frame on the trailer. This new frame was solid, it wasn’t twisted and the only visible part that was missing the coating and had surface rust was the frame section below the battery. After a detailed inspection of this frame I drove from South Phoenix to Prescott. We then resituated and reorganized. Once FIL determined the frame was good to go, I immediately tried to make some ground. I red pad scotch brite the frame and we sealed it with an epoxy sealer by Deltron. I as an idiot and didn’t take off some side step supports until after so now I have 4 little spots of unsealed areas. DOH! After sealing the frame good I started with removing the bed on Tundra A. I first removed the liner inside the gas cap. [Open the gas door and there are (4) 10 mm bolts. Remove those. Take off gas cap. Slide the black plastic off. Put the gas cap back on!!! I removed the gas door lock also to make prepping for paint that much easier. That was done by removing the clip in the inside of the gas door and the whole key unit came out the front.] I then removed the gas filling line connection to the bed. [Underneath were you just were, there are two 10 mm nuts that are holding the gas filler to the bed, remove those and my hose isn’t rigid, so I gently moved it out of our way.] Now to the wiring harness. [The first thing I did was removed what I can from the frame and bed to make it more accessible. I unplugged the two big ones and made sure there wasn't anything connected to the bed, so I can lift it off. I was surprised I got it on the first try but biggest thing is to make sure the bed is free.] Now one to the Bed Bolts. [ There are (6) T-55 bolt heads that keep the bed connected to truck. Remove those, I used my Milwaukee impact gun for 4 of the 6 and had to use shear strength to get the other ones started. I used the impact to finish taking them off. Place them in a good location because losing those will suck.] Removal of the bed. [Once you feel confident that EVERYTHING is disconnected from the BED then it's time to find a place to set the bed once you have it in your hands. We used a rolling paint support for ours, but pallets make a solid second. Bring your supports as close as you can or in the location of your choosing. My father in law and I was able to lift the bed by ourselves, but we recommend using gloves to help. We did side to side to bring the bed off the edge of the cab (the truck part you sit in) then moved to lifting from corner to corner and on to the support. If at any point you feel it snag, slowly and carefully drop the bed and find it, the last thing you want to do is break something useful! Truck bed removal is the easiest thing I will probably do.]

    Summary: Drove 300+ miles. Sealed the entire frame to my abilities. Drank a beer and removed the bed from Tundra A. Need to find a name for my new truck. Tomorrow, review what parts need to be ordered, order them, start on working on the cab removal.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Day Two:

    Woke up feeling good. Maybe have an orange and water for breakfast and kick some ass. Started off on Tundra A getting ready for cab removal. The overall goal of today was to take the cab clear off the frame without damaging anything. The next step was to get the cab as light as possible! I started with taking off the interior door jamb trim. [3 to 4 screws a piece and snap into place in the cab. Be careful when removing because the plastic pieces are intertwined.] I then moved to removing the plastic kick panels under the dash. [Super simple black nut and snaps into the cab]. I then started and removed the doors. (Find some area where you can put the doors also.) [The easiest place to start is the rear doors, start with removing the rubber grommet from the cab and I carefully unclipped the harness from the cab to easily disconnect the two. Same goes to the other side. The fronts are a little trickier, behind the kick panels you just removed disconnect the two harnesses on each side. Now get a buddy to help or a fancy stand to remove the doors. [To remove the doors or takes (4) 12 mm and a single 10 mm per door. No secret tricks just unbolt either side of the hinge and place it out of your way!] Now with doors removed you can easily get the seats out. I started with the back because I thought it would be challenging. [To remove the back seats, lift the seat to the back rest to expose the bolts. There are (4) 12mm bolts connected from the seat harness to the back of the cab. Remove the bolts and lift the seat up towards the roof and remove.] Front seats are just as challenging. [Take off the four separate black plastic caps on each corner and keep for installation. Then take off (4) 14mm bolts each seat. Tilt the seat back so the bottom of seat is exposed. Unclip the harness and remove seats from the cab. Typical for both sides.] The center console is the easier thing to remove. [Take cup holders out, lift open the center console. Remove the (4) 10mm bolts.] (Fun Fact: when you take the bolts out and can see underneath the truck, your transfer case is right there!) Take off the top trim to make sure it's not damaged while lifting the cab over the frame. [ remove the oh shit handles from the cab using a baby flat head to pop the caps, and using a t20? Or t30 to remove the handle itself. Once the handles are off, take the seat belts off especially if it's an access cab. Do this by popping the trim cap off and a 17mm bolt on each side. With the handles and seat belt down, the upper trim is easily removable. I started in the middle as it had fewer clips. I then went backwards until the last piece (most vertical trim) and I took off the ‘A’ pillar trim. My truck has a black plastic structure under the headliner and I left as is.] Being in Arizona during the start of the summer, I took the hood off before getting too warm. [Open the hood up fully, preferably with a prop and two people to complete this. Unclip each side of the hood dampeners and unbolt the (4) 12mm bolts for each side. Ensure the hood is clear from cab before removing by checking windshield washer connecting lines.] Now to move to removing the fenders, headlights, front panels. [Removing the marker lights: unscrew it from the headlight housing (plastic piece of shit screw on engine bay corner). The unit should slide out, may take some finessing. Once out you can remove the bulb or disconnect it and leave the bulb in the housing. Headlight: The removal of the headlight is then possible by removing the nuts and bolts holding it down and then carefully removing it. Ensure to disconnect the headlight harness. The fenders: there are bolts everywhere. Start with removing the mud flaps if not already (three screws each side) and removing the numerous amount of 10mm bolts keeping it in place. Remove the wheel well liner. The fender should fall right off with little effort of clear of everything. Tuck the harness into the cab to ensure it doesn’t get snagged on anything.] Now with the front of the truck exposed I started with removing all the nonessential parts like the windshield washer reservoir and coolant reservoir. [Windshield washer reservoir: drain before removing (personal mistake). Start with removing the downspout that's located in the engine bay by removing the 10mm bolt and wiggling it off. Disconnect the harness to the pump. There are (3) 10mm bolts holding the reservoir within the passenger front wheel well. The unit should fall straight down. Radiator Overflow Reservoir: remove the 10mm bolt, the line at the radiator, and lift and remove.] The power steering reservoir is easy. [Remove the (2) 10mm nuts that hold it into place and ensure it can be flopped over to the engine when the cab starts to be removed.] Then onto disconnecting every little wire harness clips that is connected to it because, its staying with the cab! I started at the firewall and ended up at the end of the transfer case. The clips were either smooth or dirty and rough. This took me the longest because I tried REALLY hard not to break the clips because that would suck. Once you got the harness unclipped, get to the firewall and zip tied together and out of the way. I would then drain the radiator and remove it. Drain the air conditioning appropriately. I think disconnecting the largest AC line at the firewall (two large hex nuts) and then on the driver side AC condenser at the very front was the way to go. With that the frame and cab can easily separate. Remove the heater lines from the cab and unbolt the switch to allow warm coolant through. Disconnect the vacuum lines that interfere with the separation. Dis‐ connect the fuse box by breaking zip ties and undoing the positive battery cable. Remember to remove the brake lines and parking brake line (I forgot about the parking brake line). The trick was to remove the brake lines at junctions. There is a junction on either side of the front wheel. Remove the vertical line (will drain naturally, I used water bottles, monster/ rock star cans) there is another junction under halfway along the cab, two lines diagonally from each other on the drive side. Just disconnect those. I had to carefully remove the heat shield on the drive side to gain access to the hidden supports for the parking brake line. Move to the interior of the cab, undo the 17mm bolt holding the parking brake upright. You need to bring the line down to the floor, review the setup and remove the brake line. We had a safety tab holding it all up and we got frustrated. Take the rubber grommet off from the under of the cab with the brake line. Under the drive side there is a harness connected under the seat that was once there. [Undo the clips holding the carpet down and remove the two large harness clips and push them down below the cab floor.] My father in law says, it's always that one thing and then one more. Take your time and ensure everything is unclipped. We were able to slowly lift the cab off the frame and with some issues of connections, we were free!!!

    Summary: Started strong, finished on my goal with seconds to spare. When in doubt about yourself, just remember, if something breaks, it can be replaced! Words of advice, the clips are easy to remove, be careful and thoughtful, it’ll pay dividends later. I enjoy lifting the cab off the frame, just wish it didn't take me ALL DAY! Still need a truck name, the color is going to be the newest Tundra Cement color and have Tacoma TRD wheels. Tomorrow is day three and lots of cleaning about to happen. Loaded up an electric power washer and bought a gallon of Dawn Dish soap!

    My goal is to clean all the engine bay, engine, drivetrain, and place it on the new frame. Maybe query about prepping for paint!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Day Three: let's get the parts swapped over.

    Organized the location of Tundra A and 2.0. Washed Tundra A engine, transmission, transfer case. Washed Cab Engine Bay. Called for New Suspension Got Toyota parts on order. Removed Engine, transmission, transfer case together. Organized Tundra A and 2.0 Brought Tundra 2.0 to the same playing field Transferred rear end, gas tank, cross member that supports transmission Started to disconnect the front end but ran out of time.

    Summary: little work because cleaning took half the day. Unmotivated because it seemed like a lot of work to put back together because of deep cleaning interior/ miscellaneous objectives. I just hope I can put everything together right the first time and not damage anything on the way!

    Goals for tomorrow: complete front end swap, new suspension components, get engine installed and ready to be rolled under the cab.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Day Four; this shit ain't over

    Got everything brought over from Tundra A to Tundra 2.0. Advice: take sway bar off, steering rack off, take spindles off, take one lower control off, then take off the front differential. Took way to long. We got new suspension in, so I installed that, until I realized they didn't include the bushing for one of the rear struts. The process of putting it together is the opposite of taking it off. We got Toyota parts in such as exhaust seals, cam seal, crank seal, head gasket seals, motor and tranny mounts. Once Tundra 2.0 was set for the engine I put the mounts on the engine and tranny. We got the drivetrain all lined up and it set into place no issues. I started to reconnect some things before moving on to the drive shafts. Loaded it up to take to Phoenix to get the engine work done. Taking a break because I'm burnt out...

    Summary: Tundra 2.0 is damn close for its cab, just needs to make sure EVERYTHING IS TIGHT. Got it rolling with the engine back in. Loaded on the trailer and ready to be worked on.

    Goal for tomorrow: Taking a half day, heading to Phoenix early. Clean all the locations I was working to give space back to my father in laws shop. Also, goal is not to get dirty...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Day Cinco: Cinco de Drinko

    Cleaned up the Tundra 2.0 Moved the frame out of the way some Tundra 2.0 on the trailer and made sure everything was tight right and ready to go. Started prepping doors for paint. By removing interior door stuff and rear windows and handles and such.

    Summary: easy relaxing day, I broke all 4 interior door handle backings in a way that some can be reused and some cant.

    Goal: get the engine work all done

    (No pictures... sorry)

    Day six: Mechanical Work

    Started with backing up Tundra 2.0 into the garage so it's out of the sun and can cool down a little. I started taking the front of the engine off and the Max showed up (he is a Toyota/ Lexus Tech and knows what to do so I let him take over). We put the cam seals, front crank seal, valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and water pump on. Put it all back together and cleaned up the garage.

    Summary: make a mess and clean it up at the end. Don’t be silly. The engine work isn’t all that bad since the cab wasn’t on the frame yet. We didn’t change the serpentine belt because it felt sticky and not glossy. All in all, have a certified Lexus tech do your work and it’ll cut your time down by 70% and you know it can be trusted!

    Goals: get the cab back on and start more paint prep.

    (No pictures... sorry)

    Day seven: When Paul meets Jesus

    Organized the lifted cab Unloaded the completed frame Got the frame checked over by me and set to drop cab on the frame Got frame aligned under cab Lifted the frame with ramps and a jack Slowly lowered the cab onto the frame Connected what I can as we dropped it Once the cab is set on the frame drop the 6 main bolts into place Ensure the steering shaft is in place

    Summary: didn't get the paint prep like the previous goal but was able to start the truck for a split second. Steering shaft was difficult to place but use some wd40. The connectors of the wiring harness suck use wd40 and don’t RIP out a connection wire...

    Goal: get water in the truck and check fluids. prep and paint door jambs. Test fit doors to ensure there in the correct location. Paint prep other parts of the cab.

    (No pictures... sorry) Just look at the pictures backwards!

    OKAY, so that concludes the process of swapping the frame. I know the first two days was solid write ups and the rest weren’t but if you have any questions please feel free to ask and I will answer them to the best of my ability!

    The remaining working days I used to prep for paint, paint and the final day I assembled Drax.

    Jambs:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Bed:
    In the paint booth:
    [​IMG]
    Post Sealer:
    [​IMG]
    After Paint: I don't think there is clear on this.
    [​IMG]

    Truck:
    Post Sealer: Would have looked similar with the Cement (1st but ended up being 2nd color choice)
    [​IMG]
    Post Color:
    [​IMG]
    Post 3 Coats of Clear:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I started mixing the color and missed on the very first one, so I let the professional adjust it and take over from there!
    [​IMG]

    Assembly:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Final Specs:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4 Cavarly Blue
    4.7L V8 with new seals/ gaskets, water pump, timing belt, spark plugs
    New Frame from another wrecked Tundra
    All new 5100 Bilsteins (1.5" front lift (Middle Setting))
    17" Toyota 4runner/ Tacoma TRD rims
    265/70R17 Dunlop Grandtrek (Came with the rims/ brand new so why not?)
    Shaved Side Moldings (AKA filled all the holes)
    Black Glossy Grill with OE Toyota Logo
    New Windshield
    Flowmaster 50 (Discarded stock resonator and muffler)
    Sanded and Cleared Headlights

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    As of today the 9th, I am waiting for it to go through Arizona Inspection. Due to its bad frame it was considered a salvage title.

    I know I am forgetting something and probably something else so any questions please ask!
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2018
  2. Jun 9, 2018 at 7:48 PM
    #2
    big_jarv

    big_jarv New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2017
    Member:
    #8561
    Messages:
    519
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tundra off-road
    Wow great write up.
    Truck looks awesome, love the color.

    Also welcome!
     
  3. Jun 9, 2018 at 7:56 PM
    #3
    Grumpy Uncle

    Grumpy Uncle Pushing string down the hall

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2017
    Member:
    #8801
    Messages:
    11,568
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Pat
    CO
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black CM Tundra TRD Off Road
    Snugtop XTR, 4:88s and Auburn LSD, dealership faux Pro, 35" BFGs on XD wheels, OME Lift with Dakars
    That was an intense 3 weeks! Welcome from CO.
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  4. Jun 9, 2018 at 7:59 PM
    #4
    Coolhardy

    Coolhardy New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2017
    Member:
    #7259
    Messages:
    1,441
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Harris
    Vehicle:
    2014 black tundra
    Too many to list
    Love the color.
    I love it when I see something from nothing.
    Great work....
     
  5. Jun 9, 2018 at 8:01 PM
    #5
    seniramsu

    seniramsu Pro Runnin

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2018
    Member:
    #11903
    Messages:
    1,051
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nate
    NC
    Vehicle:
    2017 TRD Pro Tundra Wht
    Welcome from NC!!!
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 9, 2018 at 8:23 PM
    #6
    garnaz

    garnaz New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2015
    Member:
    #1509
    Messages:
    46
  7. Jun 10, 2018 at 8:52 AM
    #7
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    7,514
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Labor intense! Good on ya and nice job. Pays to have skills.
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  8. Jun 10, 2018 at 9:12 AM
    #8
    Nickhood23

    Nickhood23 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2018
    Member:
    #14662
    Messages:
    515
    Gender:
    Male
    Murfreesboro, TN
    Vehicle:
    2012 SR5 CM SUPER WHITE
    Damn man that's impressive badass truck!
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  9. Jun 10, 2018 at 12:30 PM
    #9
    Nick T

    Nick T New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2018
    Member:
    #12508
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Nice build, i have a close twin...

     
    BestGen, Abrams65, Matty4wd and 2 others like this.
  10. Jun 12, 2018 at 8:29 AM
    #10
    Jackson

    Jackson New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2018
    Member:
    #13864
    Messages:
    18
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Theron
    WY
    Vehicle:
    2001 Black Tundra SR5 AC
    Nice truck Nick! Makes me want to make my 01 look like that!
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  11. Jun 12, 2018 at 8:49 AM
    #11
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Alaska is 2.5 times larger than Texas......

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #378
    Messages:
    28,575
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Aurora CO
    Vehicle:
    2014 Attitude Blaaaaack,5.7L DC Limited TRD 4X4
    RC steps, Zone UCA's, Fat Bob Vated coilovers, Pro Form Fab shackles, Patagonia M/T's, Ranch Hand Grill Guard, ToyTec diff breather kit
    Outstanding write up! One of the best here. That Cav Blu came out sweet!
     
  12. Jun 12, 2018 at 3:47 PM
    #12
    Nick T

    Nick T New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2018
    Member:
    #12508
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    @Jackson not too hard to make it look like mine....a bit more expensive to make it look like 18robinson's though.
    Debadge, bilstein 5100 to level and 4runner trail wheels. Although with 17 yr old paint, debadging might leave ghosting on the paint.
    Thanks for the compliment... usually everyone loves my wife's 2007 rcsb and mine is ignored :)
     
  13. Jun 12, 2018 at 6:01 PM
    #13
    gosolo

    gosolo “The .com stands for communist”, Dale Gribble

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2015
    Member:
    #2064
    Messages:
    3,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ray
    NW Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2015 DC Super Fine Super White Pro
    2"CB shackles, bushings and 1 shim, lockerdown console vault, rear folding seat back mod, snugtop shell with opening side windows, 46g fuel tank, SDHQ sliders and hidden winch, Decked Drawers, Icon leaf spring packs and got rid of the interior chrome
    Fantastic work, looking really good!
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  14. Jun 12, 2018 at 9:13 PM
    #14
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    Thank you everyone for kind words!
    I hope I can be of help to the first gen tundra owners out there. Also I hope I can keep this thread for my build so I keep myself straight
     
    Jackson and gosolo like this.
  15. Jun 12, 2018 at 9:28 PM
    #15
    Ely010606

    Ely010606 New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2017
    Member:
    #9286
    Messages:
    2,743
    Gender:
    Male
    SPARKS, NV
    Vehicle:
    2017 QS SR5 CM TRD 4x4
    That is so sweet, great job. And Welcome from Nevada
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  16. Jun 12, 2018 at 9:41 PM
    #16
    Sterlinglwood

    Sterlinglwood Never enough!

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2018
    Member:
    #13671
    Messages:
    454
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Sterling
    Newbury Park, CA
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tundra Double Cab SR5 4X4
    Holy shit! Great job
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  17. Jun 13, 2018 at 10:07 PM
    #17
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    UPDATE:

    I got the truck in my name, registered in the great state of Arizona, and then insured (as a responsible adult more than liability).

    I am ready to take it to work tomorrow and see how he does in traffic.
     
    thered and Matty4wd like this.
  18. Jun 14, 2018 at 12:11 AM
    #18
    Matty4wd

    Matty4wd Young Tundra Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2018
    Member:
    #13730
    Messages:
    763
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    San Antonio, Texas
    Vehicle:
    2005 Tundra Limited
    That was a beautiful first post, welcome! And yes me and my first gen will be keeping a close eye on what you do next, mainly for a friend .. :anonymous:
     
  19. Jun 18, 2018 at 8:02 PM
    #19
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    After 24 hours into driving it, it threw a check engine light and with a fancy code reader it was saying only a P0446 (Charcoal Canister/ Evap System) and we cleared it. I went immediately to the gas cap and unscrewed it, lightly tapped it against my palm and put it back on. I then went to the Evap Box under the hood to check all connections and vacuum hoses. Of course the hoses are checked out but I don't have the pieces to fix it so I made sure they were all connected and they seemed fine. Drove it 200 miles and no light. So I fixed something by doing little.
     
    thered and Matty4wd like this.
  20. Jun 19, 2018 at 2:46 AM
    #20
    hitech

    hitech New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2018
    Member:
    #14786
    Messages:
    139
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Blair
    Vehicle:
    2018 CM TRD OR Limited
    Your truck looks amazing! I had a 2001 Tundra Off Road that I bought new, got rid of it and bought a Tacoma, then got rid of that and bought a 2018 Tundra. Wish I had kept the gen1 Tundra, it was the right sized truck. Enjoy your new gen1 :cheers:
     
  21. Jun 19, 2018 at 3:37 AM
    #21
    Dabutcher

    Dabutcher New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2017
    Member:
    #9359
    Messages:
    632
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    D
    Twin Cities
    Vehicle:
    2008 Nautical Blue Tundra SR5 CM 4x4 Beauty
    Toytec Boss coilover, Ray10’s ,Ridge Grapplers,Bilstein 5100,BAM 8”,TRD sway,
    Great write up. Thanks for sharing. Welcome. Peace. D
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  22. Jun 19, 2018 at 4:57 AM
    #22
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    7,514
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Had the same issue happen to me last year with same code. Put a new gas cap on and it solved the problem.
     
    thered and 18robinson.jacob [OP] like this.
  23. Jun 19, 2018 at 6:06 AM
    #23
    Steve6

    Steve6 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2017
    Member:
    #11292
    Messages:
    1,825
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Vehicle:
    2018 Silver Tundra SR5 TRD Off Road
    Welcome from Arizona. Great job, the truck looks great. I wish that I had the skills to do that.
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  24. Jun 21, 2018 at 9:12 PM
    #24
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    Got the bump stocks adjusted with the washers that came with the Bilstein 5100 struts (front correct?).

    Got the skid plate on and its bent, but fits.

    The truck is still consuming coolant, I think its wierd but hopefully itll stop soon. I know it is because I keep having to add to the reservoir.
     
  25. Jun 21, 2018 at 10:03 PM
    #25
    Nick T

    Nick T New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2018
    Member:
    #12508
    Messages:
    193
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    Check for a small leak, radiator cap, radiator top and bottom, freeze plugs, heater hose especially any plastic 'T' connectors, heater core....if all checks out bring to your father in law's shop to check headgasket.
    Engine should have burped any air in the cooling system by now, maybe re-bleed the system.
     
  26. Jun 21, 2018 at 11:46 PM
    #26
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2016
    Member:
    #3549
    Messages:
    10,012
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Warren
    Santa Cruz
    Vehicle:
    '16 CM limited
    TC LT w/ king 2.5 C/O and bypass, ADS bypass rear, Toytech shackles, TRD dual exhaust dumped, KM3 37s on Method standard +18. N_Fab front bumper, Westin rear w/ hitch relocate, RCI skids, Desert Eagle tranny skid, All Pro sliders, ARB dual compressor, 5.29 gears and ARB rear locker
    Very nice job!
     
    18robinson.jacob [OP] likes this.
  27. Jun 26, 2018 at 8:50 PM
    #27
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    Truck through the P0446 Code again.. all I did was remove and put back the cap, cleared the code and it never came back on. Seems like everyother time I put gas in it, it comes on.

    Took it off roading, a little section near the house and I actually had to put it into 4x4 to get over some rocky steps.
     
    aperezsh and 831Tun like this.
  28. Jun 28, 2018 at 10:46 PM
    #28
    18robinson.jacob

    18robinson.jacob [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2018
    Member:
    #15440
    Messages:
    20
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Vehicle:
    2000 Toyota Tundra Access Cab 4x4
    P0446 is becoming a thing.. I decked the vacuum hoses under the hood with zipties so now it looks funny. If that doesnt fix the code then its time for a new gas cap.

    What in the gas cap makes it throw the code? Dirt in a vent? Busted?
     
  29. Jun 28, 2018 at 10:47 PM
    #29
    831Tun

    831Tun crazy Bastrd

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2016
    Member:
    #3549
    Messages:
    10,012
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Warren
    Santa Cruz
    Vehicle:
    '16 CM limited
    TC LT w/ king 2.5 C/O and bypass, ADS bypass rear, Toytech shackles, TRD dual exhaust dumped, KM3 37s on Method standard +18. N_Fab front bumper, Westin rear w/ hitch relocate, RCI skids, Desert Eagle tranny skid, All Pro sliders, ARB dual compressor, 5.29 gears and ARB rear locker
    Not getting a proper seal would be my guess.
     
  30. Jun 29, 2018 at 4:43 AM
    #30
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    7,514
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Thats what my mechanic told me. He diagnosed it over the phone. New cap fix has been permanent.
     
    831Tun likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top