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2nd gen A/C problems

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by supermotobobby, Feb 8, 2020.

  1. Feb 8, 2020 at 9:55 AM
    #1
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Does anyone know of any common A/C problems with our 2nd gen's leaking refrigerant? My low pressure side Shrader valve had a small leak so I replaced both Shrader vales and rechecked everything with an ultra violet light and found nothing. My A/C was working great and now it is blowing warm air again. Help please.....
     
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  2. Feb 8, 2020 at 10:41 AM
    #2
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    If it has dye in the system check the condensation drain.
     
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  3. Feb 8, 2020 at 11:09 AM
    #3
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Where is that located?
     
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  4. Feb 8, 2020 at 4:54 PM
    #4
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Must be hard to get your AC to blow warm air in February, even in Tennessee. :D

    There is a mechanical shaft seal in the compressor that can leak. Check that out as a last resort.
     
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  5. Feb 9, 2020 at 9:26 AM
    #5
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    The condensation drain is in a weird spot. It is in the firewall right over the transmission. Here is a link with pictures.
    https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/diy-unclogging-ac-drain-hose.712289/

    I would see if you have any indications of dye under the truck around the drain or where it would run down. Hopefully, you will not see any. If you do, I would suspect the evaporator coil.

    If you have not checked the compressor yet I would check that too like Lakeman said.
     
  6. Feb 9, 2020 at 1:43 PM
    #6
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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  7. Feb 12, 2020 at 12:33 PM
    #7
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    I can't seen to find the drain, could you walk me through the process? I have hit the compressor and all the line with a USB light but didn't find anything leaking. I know there is a leak because all of my refrigerant is gone.
     
  8. Feb 12, 2020 at 4:47 PM
    #8
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Read the thread link that @huntertn provided. Photos clearly show what the condensate drain looks like on the firewall.

    When you replaced the Schrader valve, did you find the leaking valve with UV light or bubble test? Did the refrigerant you recharged with have dye? If there is no dye in the system, then UV isn't going to show any florescence.
     
  9. Feb 12, 2020 at 5:27 PM
    #9
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Yes it had dye and I did the UV light test. Even with the pictures, I can't find the damn drain.
     
  10. Feb 15, 2020 at 8:08 PM
    #10
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    Finally got a chance to get some pics today to try and help. You really can’t easily see it from the engine compartment. The drain is located in the middle of the firewall where is curves back under the cab to form the transmission tunnel. It dumps the water onto the top of the transmission.

    In this picture I am looking forward between the transmission and the passengers side frame rail. The bottom of the picture is the passengers side rail. I marked the transmission and the back of the front catalytic converter. You will noticed that the black drain is just forward of a stiffener. It is not always visible you have to get the angle right. I was laying under the passenger side right behind the front tire.
    8A474D3B-1006-4CAC-BD63-2502E9022DC3.jpg
     
  11. Feb 15, 2020 at 8:58 PM
    #11
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Ya I found it. It looks like the drain part is only the slit in the right hand side of it. I hit it with compressed air and nothing came out. I can't find the leak even with the ultraviolet light at night.
     
  12. Feb 15, 2020 at 9:03 PM
    #12
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    How bad is the leak? Like a pound a year or a pound every couple of months.
     
  13. Feb 16, 2020 at 7:13 AM
    #13
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Like service it up and in a few days it's all gone.
     
  14. Feb 16, 2020 at 7:33 AM
    #14
    zombie

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    After doing any A/C work, if available, you bring it down to a vacuum and let it sit. If the needle doesn't move your good. If it comes out of vacuum, you have a leak. Saves you from filling it up with Freon only to loose it all. Especially if you are paying $75 a can for R-12 for the antique cars.
     
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  15. Feb 16, 2020 at 1:32 PM
    #15
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    The machine it goes on does the leak down test and it passes. That's what's confusing.
     
  16. Feb 16, 2020 at 2:42 PM
    #16
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    That’s crazy. That should be easy to find. I would think you would have a big oil stain somewhere.
     
  17. Feb 16, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #17
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    This would make me think it is the valve cores leaking in the service ports. They don’t leak when the gauges are hooked up. But you changed those already. Very odd.
     
  18. Feb 16, 2020 at 4:59 PM
    #18
    Failure2comply

    Failure2comply Master HVAC Tech

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    If it will hold a -500 micron vacuum for thirty minutes, then there are no leaks on the main refrigerant circuit. But as stated, schrader cores will leak. But when the gauge set is attached they are sealed. Put in vacuum with just the low side hooked up, then pull the low side gauge and see it it comes out of a vacuum. Leave the caps off of the schrader cores while testing.
     
  19. Feb 16, 2020 at 6:20 PM
    #19
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Ok I'll try that
     
  20. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:28 AM
    #20
    zombie

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    It has to hold a vacuum, plain and simple. New schrader valves is cheap insurance.
     
  21. Feb 17, 2020 at 12:48 PM
    #21
    supermotobobby

    supermotobobby [OP] New Member

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    Well crap! I found the leak. The dye it lighting up around the drain. So does that mean my evaporator is bad? How much of the dash has to come out?
     
  22. Feb 17, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #22
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    If you have dye at the drain that typically means it is the evaporator. Basically, the oil and dye leaks out with the refrigerant and when the system starts cooling and condensation forms on the evaporator it washes the dye out the condensation drain. There is also an expansion valve mounted to the evaporator with some O-Ring but you usually have to pull it all out to do either part. It should be more obvious which part has developed a leak when you can get eyes on it. I would bet it is the evaporator.

    I have never done the job on a Tundra. I looked at buying a truck with this problem but ended up with the one I have now.
     
  23. Feb 18, 2020 at 12:11 PM
    #23
    bleach

    bleach MEME Fiend

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    It's a really, really big job on the Tundra. I looked a the shop manual and it says to remove the "instrument panel" which I assume means the entire dash. There's a lot that has to be removed to get the evaporator.
     

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