1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

2nd Gen A/C Compressor Install

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by LibertySand, Apr 14, 2017.

  1. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:25 AM
    #1
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    2nd Gen AC Compressor Install
    After a month of listening to the AC Compressor Pump bearing squealing I finally maned up and changed it before it seized and caused me more problems. Now, I'm no Certified Mechanic but I'm pretty good with a wrench. I've priced several shops in SoCal to do the work but I don't have $1,000's right now to be tossing at the Tundra. So I decided to do the work myself. Save a buck and learn me something.

    I took a ton of pictures and figured I try to do a write up since I couldn't find crap that was specific to my 2nd Gen Tundra. Maybe this will help another Tundra owner out there.

    Tundra AC Both Pumps.jpg

    Q&A Section:
    Why didn't you just change out just the Clutch?
    The Tundra has 117,000 miles on it. I couldn't see another easier way to change out just the clutch other than just changing it all if I was down there anyway's. My luck the compressor would go shortly after I did all the work for the clutch/bearing. So, do it all!

    What year is your 2nd Gen?

    It's a 2007 5.7 4X4 Double Cab. TRD Intake. FABTECH 6" Lift.

    Is my 1st Gen or 3rd Gen exactly like the 2nd Gen?
    I have no clue but chances are they are very similar and you could probably get by with this write up for your needs.

    Have you done this before?
    This is my first time doing HVAC on a vehicle. I've worked as an HVAC Tech/Installer for a rough 4 years when I was younger. I was slightly concerned and felt like this may be more than I can handle but after several Youtube videos and a few Toyota Tundra research... I did it.

    Did you have all the tools?
    No. I had to rent the Evaporator Vacuum Pump and a set of Gauges. AutoZone lets you rent the tools with a full refund. $130 for the Gauges, $150 for the Pump.

    Why are you so awesome?
    I was born like this but defiantly got some of it from my father. I'd say I work hard and like to play hard so in general thats awesome all in it's self. You too can be awesome, start by changing out your own AC Compressor!



    Tool List:
    The following is the full list of tools I used to do the install.
    • 1/2" Ratchet
    • Sockets - 7/32, 10mm, 12mm, 12mm deep socket, 14mm, 19mm
    • Extensions - 2 Long, 1 Short, 1 Swivel
    • 12mm Wrench
    • Large Standard Screwdriver
    • Needle Nose Pliers
    • Cooler, Ice
    • Your choice of Beer
    Tundra AC Tools 1.jpg Tundra AC Tools 2.jpg

    Parts:
    I Amazon everything these days. Sometimes RockAuto.com but I found a decent deal on Amazon, seemed legit. Lets hope so. Side by side the Pumps looked identical. The new pump was package alright, came with Dryer, Pump Oil, O-Rings/Seals and after inspecting the Pump it seemed New and manufactured correctly.
    A/C Compressor 14-1012NEW
    A/C Compressor $198.95
    A/C Receiver Dryer $27.95
    Refrigerant Oil $18.35
    Total $220.71 w/tax​

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXYFNRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Tundra AC Both Pumps 2.jpg

    Tools Rented:
    You'll need to get a Evaporator Vacuum Pump and a set of Gauges.
    • The Vac Pump is for pulling all the moisture out of the system after you've opened it all up during the install. Rental $150
    • The Gauges are needed for the Pump and also to refill the system with Freon. They also help to see if the system has a leak after you've installed all the new parts and seals. Rental $130
    • Most Auto Parts Stores have a tool rent section. AutoZone is my go to place. I rented what I needed and got my money back the same day I started the Install.
    Tundra AC Rent 2.jpg

    Now to the Install.....
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  2. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:26 AM
    #2
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Statement:
    Before I start let me say this. I've worked on all my own vehicles myself, in driveways, condo complexes, apartments, in the desert, mountains and the pouring rain all while usually having a few beers. I am by far no Professional Mechanic but many friends get their vehicles towed to my house for a cheap fix, usually a case of Beer and money for parts. You should see my list of vehicles in the system at AutoZone.

    I do take criticism well and enjoy a good jab below the belt but you better be able to take it if you dish it. I do however think that this Thread can help a few guys that have had the same issue "Is it worth tackling an A/C compressor on my own?" Yes it is, do it. I was nervous myself after some threads of negativity out there but said Fawk It! I'll give it a try. Save yourself the money if you have the time. I did this in about 5 hours. If you have suggestions please input on this thread so that we all have a good resource for parts and install.

    Do as I do but not what I do. Or is it, Do as I say, not what I do? Pretty much what worked for me may not work for you but have another beer and try again. Patience is the name of the game while working on your Rig.

    Note:
    I do not know all the correct descriptions for everything in this write up so if another Mechanic points something out, I'll Edit what is needed. Please read the entire Write up before Piping in with Comments or Tackling the Install yourself.
    Also you will Note that some pictures were taking after the fact while during the write up I am representing the older AC Compressor. Pictures are for your reference.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
    Black Wolf and TheBeast like this.
  3. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #3
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Discharge:
    You will need to discharge the system First! The System is under high pressure!
    This is very important and you should take your Tundra to an A/C shop to do this. I have a friend that owns an A/C and Heat company that did it for me. We used his Gauges and he collected the R-134 from my system.
    I have heard of people hooking up the gauges to the High Pressure and Low Pressure ports and slowly bleeding the system into a bucket with a small towel inside a large ziplock baggy but that is bad for the environment and you may be fined by your city, county or whatever legal system that wants your money for everything. Don't do this.

    Hooking Up Gauges:
    There is 2 Ports to deal with. High Pressure Side and Low Pressure side.
    • High Pressure side will be behind the grille in front of the radiator on drivers side.
    • Low Pressure side will be in the engine bay near the Battery and Brake Reservoir.
    • Service Hose gets connected to the middle of the manifold and to the Vac Pump. This will be used later on after the install. You dont need to hook this up now but I did so that I can bleed off any extra pressure that was built up after discharging.
    Unscrew the Caps and keep them in a good spot so they aren't lost. I left mine on top of the Battery so I wouldn't forget to put them back on after the install.

    Low Pressure
    Tundra AC LowPressure2.jpg
    Tundra AC LowPressure1.jpg


    High Pressure
    Tundra AC HighPressure1.jpg
    Tundra AC HighPressure2.jpg

    Service Hose
    Tundra AC Yellow.jpg

    Jack Up Tundra and Pull off Drivers front Tire:
    Tundra AC Off.jpg



    Loosen Tension on Serpentine Belt:
    You'll need to loosen the Serpentine Belt and remove the belt from the A/C Compressors Pulley. At this time you may want to replace your Serpentine belt (that's up to you)

    If you don't have a belt tensioner loosener than try combining a couple tools for a quick pry ratchet bar to loosen the tension from the belt tensioner pulley wheel. The Belt Tensioner is next to the Alternator on my 5.7 V8.

    Grab your 1/2" Ratchet, 14mm Socket, 19mm Socket and a Large Standard Screwdriver. Get under your Tundra and get the Ratchet with the 14mm on the Belt Tensioner. Slip the 19mm over the ratchets handle and the Screwdriver in to the 19mm. Turn the Tensioner Pulley Counter Clockwise and at the same time pry the Belt from the A/C pump. Keep in mind that if you aren't changing the whole Pulley out for a new one, there is no need to pull the Entire Belt off every Pulley.
    Tundra AC Tensioner 1.jpg
    Tundra AC Tensioner 2.jpg
    Tundra AC Tensioner 3.jpg

    Pull off Splash Guard to Access the A/C Compressor:
    My Guard was pretty much trash and ripped so I just yanked it off. You'll want to use your Standard screwdriver and pry the plastic clips off to reuse them later and to put the Guard back on after install. Plus I think this is how my Bearing went on the Pump. Several days after playing in the water while off roading I got a squeal from my pump.
    Tundra AC Inner Fender Engine Bay Gaurd.jpg


    So here's your working area for the next few hours. At this point I've already kneeled on 2 small pebbles that pissed me off even though I laid several layers of cardboard down to keep my knees happy. (Damn Asphalt driveway, can't wait to Demo you and pour Concrete.)
    Tundra AC Main View.jpg

    Unplug the Electrical from the A/C Compressor:
    Use your Standard Screwdriver and push in the clip, with your other hand gently pull the plug up and away. Get the plug to stay out of the way at this point.

    Tundra AC Electrical Plug1.jpg
    Tundra AC Electrical Plug2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2017
    louscrw likes this.
  4. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #4
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Battery Wiring Harness:
    There is a Huge Wire Loom that is in your way and you'll need to move it for better access and A/C Compressor removal. Grab your Ratchet and a 12mm socket.

    Tundra AC Battery Main1.jpg

    Get on your back and loosen the 12mm bolt from the inner drivers frame rail.

    Tundra AC Battery Main2.jpg
    Tundra AC Battery Main3.jpg

    Just so you don't loose the bolt and mix it with the other 12mm bolts you'll be taking off the AC Compressor, screw it back into the frame for safe keeping.
    Tundra AC Battery Main5.jpg

    Now you can move the Whole Loom out of your way. I kept pushing it towards the front of the Tundra and back towards the fire wall depending on where I was trying to get my fat hands around the A/C Compressor. It's doable but it'll be a nuisance the entire time. Deal with it, have another beer if you've got to this point. I know I was already getting pissed that the Wire Loom wouldn't stay put.
    Tundra AC Battery Main4.jpg

    Unbolt and pull off AC Lines:
    Now it's time to work. At this time I would make sure there is no Pressure in the lines by opening the valves on the Gauges manifold. You will need to pull the lines off the pump. Red arrow is the High Pressure line. The Fatter hose is the Low Pressure line.
    Tundra AC Lines.jpg

    Grab your Ratchet and 10mm, these are the bolts you'll be taking off.
    Tundra AC 10mm.jpg

    I recommend taking the Low Pressure line off first. Be careful as there may be a small amount of pressure in the Compressor still so don't be shocked that it'll have a small pop once you get the bolt off and pull on the line from the Compressor. I kinda did a Bitch Flinch when it popped. You know, when you fake sucker punch someone and you flinch. Ya, thats what I did, only I Flinched.

    Use a small Extension to get the Low Pressure line off the pump.
    Tundra AC Low Line1.jpg
    Tundra AC Low Line2.jpg

    Twist a piece Paper Towel and shove it up the lines soon as you get them off. Kinda like what Mommy did to my nose the first time I face planted my head into my Huffy's handle bars and came up with a bloody nose. The point is to keep debri from entering the lines, not clotting Freon.
    Tundra AC Paper Lines.jpg

    Now lets get the High Pressure line off.
    Grab the Ratchet and take off the short extension and put the long one on with the 10mm socket. Unbolt and pull line off, it may pop, don't be scared, again.
    Tundra AC HighLine1.jpg

    Next, you'll need to pull off the High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing. It'll look like this once you pull it off.
    Tundra AC HighLine Thing1.jpg
    Tundra AC HighLine Thing2.jpg

    Now, I took this off after I got the compressor out of the truck. I dont recommend doing that. It got hung up the whole time and made me drink another beer. So do this now, unless your neighbors don't mind you cussin at the Tundra and crushin beer cans on your forehead.

    Here's what you'll need. Not a joke, either find a 5.5mm (I tried all my small mm sockets and nothing fit till I came across a 5.5 buried in my drawer) or use a 7/32" socket to unbolt the High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing.
    Tundra AC Thingy 5.5mm.jpg
    Tundra AC Thingy2.jpg
    Tundra AC Thingy1.jpg

    This is now a great time to change to O-Rings/Seals before you forget. You've already had a couple of Brooskies, Kneeled on some Rocks, Hit your Forehead, Ratchet dropped on your chest and asked if everything is ok by your neighbors after Cussing at the Tundra.

    Pull off the old black O-Rings/Seals from the lines and High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing with your needle nose pliers. DONT SCRATCH THE FITTINGS! Rummage through the supplied gaskets and match up the O-Rings/Seals one at a time. Again, ONE AT A TIME. Don't be Joe Cool and think you'll know which O-Rings/Seal went with which line.

    Out of the entire bag I used 3 O-Rings/Seals.
    Tundra AC Orings.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
    louscrw likes this.
  5. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #5
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Time to get the Compressor Unbolted from the Motor:
    So now it's time to get the Compressor Unbolted. There is 4 spots that need to be dealt with. Two 12mm bolt heads on the Right (towards the firewall) and Two 7/32" head Stud Bolts with 12mm Nuts.
    Tundras 4 Bolts.jpg
    Tundra AC Bolts12mm 7-32.jpg

    Start by taking off the Two 12mm bolts. They are the same length so don't worry which one goes where.
    Tundra AC 12mm Bolts.jpg

    You'll need 2 Long Extensions on the Ratchet with the 12mm Socket. Start with the Top Right bolt.
    Tundra AC 12mm Top Right.jpg

    Then unbolt the bottom right 12mm bolt. For this one you'll need to get tricky and go through the Frame where your Tie Rod goes through that turns the Drivers Side Tire.

    This one is a pain in the ars but I figured out the right combination of Beer and Extensions. You'll need your Ratchet, 2 long Extensions, 1 Short Extension, a Swivel Extension and the 12mm Socket. Drink your Beer and have at it. Take a deep breath and avoid the pebbles on the ground.
    Tundra AC 12mm Bottom Right1.jpg
    Tundra AC 12mm Bottom Right2.jpg

    When you get those 2 bolts out then work on getting the 12mm Nuts off the 7/32" Stud Bolts. Switch out for the 12mm Deep Socket or your 12mm Gear Ratchet Wrench.
    Tundra AC 12mm Deep Socket.jpg

    Start with the Top 12mm Nut on your left towards the front of the Tundra. You'll need Ratchet, Two Extensions and your 12mm Deep Socket.
    Tundra AC 12mm Top Left1.jpg

    Next you'll need to get the bottom nut off. This one was a pain also since the frame is in the way. I found that just the Ratchet and Deep Socket did the trick. I used the 12mm Wrench but I couldn't get a grip with my Fatty Hand in the way.

    Get on your back and go from underneath to access the nut. Have fun dropping the Ratchet on your chest, it feels real good.
    Tundra AC 12mm Bottom Left1.jpg
    Tundra AC 12mm Bottom Left2.jpg

    Now that you have both Nuts and Bolts off you'll need to get the Top Left Stud Bolt off. You WILL NOT be able to unmount the AC Compressor. It will be loose and you may think you can but the Studs keep the AC Compressor from freeing itself from the motor as it will keep hitting the inner frame rail. I was cussing up a storm.

    Grab the 7/32" Socket and unbolt the Top Left Stud. Leave the Bottom Stud on. No need to take it off. This will also help you re align and install the new AC Compressor.
    Tundra AC 7-32 Top Left.jpg

    Use 2 Extensions and your 7/32" Socket. Be REALLY CAREFUL not to strip the Studs Head. If you think that the 7/32" isn't the right size for you, find something that fits just as tight. Kinda like when you go to a Strip Joint. If you like Blondes instead of Brunettes, go for the Blondes cause that's what works for you. Remove the Stud and get ready to pull the AC Compressor OFF.
    Tundra AC 7-32 Top Left2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
    louscrw likes this.
  6. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #6
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Pull the AC Compressor Out!
    So at this point after unbolting the Top Left Stud Bolt, let the AC Compressor tilt up towards the Firewall and Hood. Slide it off the Bottom Left Stud Bolt. Move the Compressor forward towards the front of the Tundra. Then slightly turn the Pulley towards you and up over the Frame Rail. With some bitching and smashed fingers you'll have the AC Compressor OUT in no time. Just kidding, it might take you a couple tries before it comes out.
    Tundra AC Pull Out.jpg

    Do yourself a Huge Favor and double check the Old AC Compressor to the new one. Make sure it all looks the same. At this time you'll want to pull one of the plastic caps off and add some Compressor Oil that came with the pump. There is a certain amount that it requires. My Compressor had some pressure in it so don't be Scared again when you "Pop" Off the plastic seal. Pour some Oil in it and put the Seal back on. This way you dont get any debris in the pump during installation.
    Tundra AC Both Pumps 2.jpg
    Tundra AC Both Pumps 3.jpg

    OLD Compressor
    Tundra AC Denso Old Compressor.jpg

    New Compressor (By the WAY, PRC is another way of saying China) (Peoples Republic of China)
    Tundra AC Delta New Compressor.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2017
    louscrw likes this.
  7. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:27 AM
    #7
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    Install AC Pump
    So pretty much now you are ready to install the new AC Compressor. In reality you would just do everything in reverse order you took it off in.

    Make sure to leave the Plastic Caps on your AC Compressor and get it in place on the the Bottom 7/8" Stud Bolt. Yes, it's time to knee another pebble and pinch your finger between the frame rail and AC Compressor.
    Tundra AC Plastic.jpg
    Tundra AC Put In.jpg

    Re-Bolt 'er Up
    1. Now Put the Stud Bolt Back in the Top Left Side.
    2. Put the 12mm Bolts back in.
    3. Put the 12mm nuts on the Stud Bolts.
    4. Tighten to Spec.... (no clue what that was)
    Re-Line 'er Up
    1. Start with the Top High Pressure Line.
    2. Use a 10mm and Pop off the Plastic Fitting.
    3. Grab the High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing and make sure there is no Debis in or on it. Also make sure you installed the new O-Ring/Seal. Add some AC Compressor Oil to it so it doesn't go in dry.
    4. Bolt in the High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing onto the AC Compressor. You'll need the small bolt and the 7/32" Socket to bolt it onto the AC Compressor.
    5. Now for the High Pressure line, attach that to the High Pressure Adapter Elbow Thingy Thing using the 10mm Bolt.
    6. Now attach the Low Pressure Line to the lower port by taking off the Plastic Fitting and installing the Low Pressure Line. Don't forget to put on a new O-Ring/Seal.
    Re-Plug 'er In
    1. Reattach the Electrical Plug
    Tundra AC Electrical Plug2.jpg


    Re-Bolt the Battery Loom 'er
    1. Re inline the Battery Loom and it's Hanger to the frame.
    2. Pull the Bolt back out of the inner frame rail with your 12mm Socket.
    3. Bolt the Hanger back on.
    Tundra AC Battery Main3.jpg


    Re-Belt 'er Up

    1. Now grab your 14mm with your custom bar setup.
    2. Turn the Belt Tensioner Counter Clock Wise to loosen the pressure on the Serpentine Belt.
    3. Make sure the belt is in all the grooves of every Pulley including the AC Compressor before Tensioning the Belt back up.
    Tundra AC Tensioner 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
  8. Apr 14, 2017 at 1:28 AM
    #8
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    NOTE:
    At this time I did not pull my Condenser off to replace the Filter Dryer nor did I change out my Expansion Valve. This should definatly be done if you had a Catastrophic AC Compressor Failure. In all truth I should have done it but I was running out of time and figureing the system was clean since the reason for changing the AC Compressor was because of a Bad Bearing and Clutch, not from Internal Compressor Failure. That's my Excuse and Shouldn't be Yours!

    The Filter Dryer.
    Tundra AC Dryer.jpg

    This is where the Filter Dryer would go. It requires you to pull the Condenser from the front end assemblie that also holds the Water Radiator. It's Located behind My Trans Cooler. Two Bees were killed prior to taking this picture. They are now a Staple of Excellence and are one with my Trans Cooler.
    Tundra AC Dryer1.jpg
    Tundra AC Dryer2.jpg


    The Expansion Valve looks like this and I still have no clue where it goes. I think this one might go in the Cab on the Fire Wall because I can't seem to find it right now. (I will edit this when I figure it out or when I install it, somebody may chime in on a post)
    Tundra AC Exspansion Valve.jpg

    Time to do a Pressure Test
    Here's were your Rental's start to come to play. Re-check all your lines at the AC Compressor. Double check that you have the Gauge Lines attached properly onto the High/Low Pressure Ports. With the Evap Pump plugged into power and the Yellow Service line attached to the Pump and Center of Manifold Gauges.


    Turn the Evap Pump on and open both Lines on the Manifold. Allow the Evap Pump to Suck out all the Moisture and What Not. After 30 Minutes, Close the Lines on the Manifold and turn the Pump Off. Check the Gauge on the Manifold and note what the Pressure is. The Left Gauge (Low Pressure Side) should be well under 0 PSI. I never got Below -25 PSI. Let it sit for another 30 minutes and see what the Gauge say's. If the Pressure has changed, you have a leak. Mine stayed at -25 and so I went to the next step. -25 PSI is not the correct term, it's what worked for me, Deal with it.
    Tundra AC Pressure Gauge.jpg

    Turn the Evap Pump back on and Open the Lines on the Manifold. Go get a another Beer and start picking up your tools. Run the Pump for about 45 mins to an Hour.
    Tundra AC Rent 1.jpg

    After you've had your beer and put the Drivers side tire back on. Turn off the Pump and close the Lines on the Manifold. Unplug the pumps power and pull the Yellow Service Line off the Pump.

    Refrigerate the System.
    Depending on what Cans of R-134 Freon you got, you can use the Gauges to help pull in the Freon from the Can or an Actual Bottle.

    Since I was pressed for time I emptied 2 Cans straight into the System of the Low Pressure Port while Running the Tundra.
    Tundra AC 134.jpg

    That's IT! You are done!
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017
    louscrw likes this.
  9. Apr 17, 2017 at 10:32 PM
    #9
    LibertySand

    LibertySand [OP] IH Support Rig

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2016
    Member:
    #5706
    Messages:
    278
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Montclair, CA
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD DC 5.7 Tow 4X4
    So there you have it. My Write up on my first AC Compressor Install. Wasn't so bad. Hopefully this Compressor doesn't Fail. I'm thinking about fixing the Original one just so that I have one as back up.

    Enjoy! And Time for me to Gloat! The AC is FREEZING COLD and ready for Warmer Day's in Cali!
    Tundra AC Gloat.jpg
     
  10. Apr 18, 2017 at 6:03 AM
    #10
    louscrw

    louscrw all jacked up on Mt. Dew

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2016
    Member:
    #4829
    Messages:
    1,246
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Lou
    Warner Robins, Ga
    Vehicle:
    2017 MGM CM Limited 4WD
    in signature
    Great write up. Very straight forward and easy to follow...even my non-mechanically inclined ass could tackle this job w/ your write up as a guide. I couldn't help but laugh while reading about pebbles and tools falling, that would definitely be me.
     
    Sci-Fi and LibertySand [OP] like this.
  11. Apr 21, 2017 at 7:00 AM
    #11
    Honest Toyota guy

    Honest Toyota guy New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2017
    Member:
    #7336
    Messages:
    12
    First Name:
    Jeff
    Vehicle:
    08 Tundra TRD Crew Max
    None so far
    +1... This is probably one of the better write ups I've seen online!
     
  12. Jul 30, 2018 at 9:26 PM
    #12
    joes01zq8

    joes01zq8 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2018
    Member:
    #17555
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    Well done Sir... sorry to bring a old post back to life but I am looking for a answer or two if someone can chime in that would be nice. I recently replaced my Condenser. What I need help with is where is the low pressure switch to jump off to get compressor to kick on when adding Freon? Yes I know to pull a vacuum first. I see that Libertysand stated he put in 2 cans of Freon but didn't mention on how he was able to get the compressor to kick on, maybe after charging the 1st can there is enough in the system to get it to engage but I am unsure about that thought.
     
  13. Jul 31, 2018 at 5:12 AM
    #13
    NewImprovedRon

    NewImprovedRon "220, 221- WHATEVER IT TAKES" - Michael Keaton

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2015
    Member:
    #1501
    Messages:
    10,946
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ron
    Bentonville, AR
    Vehicle:
    2015 Radiant Red TSS Doublecab 4X4 Off Road
    Deck rail system, Bed divider, door sill protectors, LED reverse light bars, Aries Bull Bar with 28" 180 watt LED light bar, LED step lights, LED bed lights, driver-side grab handle, TRD Rear Sway Bar, BedRug bed mat and tailgate mat, Morimoto Fog Lights, more to come.....
    Jason, excellent write-up and pictures! Also appreciated the humorous comments , Sir! Anyone who has ever worked on their vehicle on their driveway can certainly identify.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top