2024 Oil

I've been getting my oil out of a big vat behind McDonald's. Been working fine so far. And my exhaust smells like fries. Win win in my book.

 

I'm not gonna use that new fancy rock oil. Sperm whale's oil is way to go.

 

My Fiat recommended 5w40 but I know better. It's Italian so EVOO is what it gets.

 

I hope not in plastic bottles...........extra v oil has to be in special dark glass bottles............lol

 

Because the manufacturer is choosing the specs based on a multitude of variables. The most beneficial option for the manufacturer is not necessarily the most beneficial option for the owner, especially a long term owner.

Those two things are not neccesarily causing issues in other engines at 20k miles though.

In fact, start/stop actually lowers fuel dilution. Sitting, idling at a light, is exactly the kind of activity that allows fuel to build up in the oil.

 

Wrong.

 

Its really is false though. Oils a liquid and the oil pump is positive displacement. Whether its 0W-20 or 5W-40, the pump will move the same volume of oil through the motor.

Its not like 5W-40 oil molecules are thicker and wont fit in between the bearing surfaces.

 

consider the pressure relief valve.

 

Ok, even so, it wont "Starve" the bearings of oil. The pressure will be the same in the bearing and flow will be high.

Engines are not that finicky about oil viscosity and you will see engines even of the same build but in different applications are ok to use differnt weight oils. Take GM's 6.2L. 0W-20 in many applications. A Camaro with the track pack uses something like 0W-40.

Fords Coyote. 5W-20 in some applications but comes with factory 10W-50 in others.

This is all about appeasing the EPA. I would never run 0W-20 in a motor like this. I don't even run 0W-20 in my 5.7L or the 4.6L I had before that. I was running 0W-40 Euro oil in my Ecoboost.

 

Sorry, but the viscosity of a fluid being pumped absolutely affects the flow characteristics within the system. Set up a closed-loop system and run tests...you'll see pressure and flow changes are related to the viscosity. Try pumping water vs. honey and see what happens.

 

30 years ago my dad thought i was an animal for using 5w-30 and not 20w-50

 

Sure if its not a positive displacement pump. If anything the heavier weight oil will increase pressure at low RPM where these engines make their peak torque and help keep the bearing clearances. Flow volume will remain the same.

Also, cold starting a 0W-20 is still WAY thicker than 30 or 40 weight at operating temperatures and the engines handle it just fine. If we're starving bearings then its happening with 0W-20 too.

 

Thats because those oils probably didnt have good antiwear properties and were depending on viscosity to keep metal parts separated.

But just because new oils have better properties doesn't mean the viscosity thing doesn't still hold true.

 

I think tolerances are part of the equation here. For example, if you want to bbq that wagyu steak with propane (and propane accessories), ideally it would be at least one inch thick. However, if your bbq is powered by natural gas, you’re gonna need a 7/8” thick slab of that same beef.

 

@vtl gave me the best advice. Another big brother for me on this forum.

 

I should point out that all of the 5.7 guys have good advice. A lot of displacement comes with a lot of advice. Take it. VTL just gets the award for being good and concise.

 

When triggered it will leave the designed line pressure, despite of oil viscosity. Propagation delay from the pressure source to sink will be higher with higher viscosity oil, but that's the counter job for a thicker oil film.

5w30 is not radically thicker than 0w20. You only start to feel something when fill, say, 10w40 instead of 0w30. Like the engine is a bit more sluggish.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V5a4kP-5Jiw

Pretty obvious

I work on material handling equipment-oil weight does make a difference. Cold storage unit/full time or part time in freezer two different oil requirements.
This threads going to go on for infinity.

 

I was wondering if someone was going to mention 0w-30. It falls right in line with the overseas specs, but isn't listed. I would think this would be the optimal one to pick if one was going to deviate from US specs.

 

More info.
Can you say Thiiiirrrrrrty? Lol
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Tck6JU-KZgQ

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IKdhgKUZhPA&pp=ygUJV3Jvbmcgb2ls

 

How's the 0w-30 doing? Been reading too much about oil lately. LOL

 

Use French fry oil. Exhaust smells better

 

All I know is my truck and my son's truck have been quieter and smoother with 5w-30 in them. I figure if Ford is using 5w-30 in their Ecoboost and not having bearing failures, there may be something to that. Plus, the Ecoboosts get better mileage than the Tundra does. Go figure.

 

For stress free driving, consider trading truck in before drivetrain warranty expires.
You’ll get a decent trade in price with lesser miles on the truck.
Plus, you’ll have the enjoyment of driving a vehicle without the stress of the repair cost of a major engine or transmission repair.
I do absolute minimum maintenance and trade it in.
No worries of what type of oil to use or doing early oil changes or using high octane gas.

 

I just stick with the recommended oil as per manual, which is 0W-20. Many engineers & hours of testing & building went into this engine or any engine for that matter. The owners manual states that if any other is used, to switch back as soon as possible. Don't you think that if thicker oil was the cure all, then Toyota would recommend that instead of voluntarily replacing 100,000 engines?? I'll stick with what recommended & not worry about it.
Although, my truck will get 5000 mile oil changes.

 

I manufacture my own engine oil and have submitted it for testing.

It exceeds all chemical and wear benchmarks.

 

The thinner oil will get to the crucial parts of the engine quicker than the heavier grade motor oil. Most manufacturers do recommend the use of the specific grade in their engines since they do build them and do a lot of research to know what is best for your vehicle. The biggest factor in engine reliability and longevity is doing the oil changes at regular intervals and keeping up with preventative maintenance. You can always upgrade to synthetic oil which does have better life expectancy than conventional oils. Can help the engine run cleaner longer. I have had multiple vehicles with over 250,000 miles while using synthetic without any engine issues. I do use the recommended weight oil with the synthetic.

 

Cold start benefits thicker oil as it provides better protection without oil pressure reaching the bearings yet. Open just any engine text book. Thin oil is for reducing pump loss in exchange of greater wear.

When engineers were the ones who dictated what oil grade had to be used in engine, it was the SAE60 engine oil times.

 

Now the question: does your engine oil gland produce enough of oil for 5k miles oil change intervals?

 

Change intervals?

Ain't no change.