2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

yep that is what I am talking about - I keep mine Pinned in the tow season and un-pinned in the winter. no issues doing this here in Colorado.

 

Drove it around town for about 30 minutes this morning in 28° ambient. Plenty of stop/go. Got up to 175° by the time I parked if the "car scanner" app is correct. I was surprised not to see 195°.

About adding fluid, either the trans was low from the factory or this cooler setup added materially to the fluid capacity. I added 1.5qts to bring it to full after my install.

Related, I was curious how much pressure these cooler hoses are under. Some on the Internet say they are under 200-300psi off the torque converter. That makes no sense to me. The factory slip connections wouldn't be reliable at those pressures. I think transmissions have lower pressure lubrication circuits?

 

Cooler lines don't even hit 20psi

 

How would you rate the PIA factor for installing the aFe?
Looks like a 3 hour job?
Any parts you needed that did not come with the kit?

 

The biggest pain was removing the grill/bumper assembly. I didnt realize you have pop the bumber covers from the quarter panel. I put a small crack in the bumper at the clips. Not visible when installed, but it still pissed me off to do any damage to a brand new truck.

The actual mounting of the cooler was straightforward. Protect the A/C condenser during the install as the fins are ridiculously delicate.

IMPORTANT: the instructions say to only remove the top bolt from the center core support. I would re-write that part. Remove the top and bottom bolts to remove the center suport because there is no way to get the cooler in with the installed AN fittings without risking damage to the A/C condesor fins otherwise.

Routing the hoses took some time.

I bought all new hoses. The kit came with wimpy little 3/8th hoses that have much thinner walls than the OEM hoses. And the orignial AN fittings had 1/2" hose barbs, which was a no-go with 3/8 hose without alot of heat and force. I would have talked with aFe about, but I wasnt the original purchaser.

I bought the following:
3/8 hose that has a similar OD to the factory 10mm hose:

$23 Derale 13016 Transmission/Engine Oil Hose , Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONNTE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
3/8 hose to -8AN:

$16 EVIL ENERGY 8AN Male to 3/8" Barb Hose Fitting Straight Swivel 2PCS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQ7S6HYW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
-8AN hose and fittings:

$56 EVIL ENERGY 8AN Fuel Line Kit, 8AN Nylon Braided Fuel Line Hose Fitting Kit CPE 12FT Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQLYCL3G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
Factory spring clips: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~clip~hose~90466-a0014.html
Magnetic Filter:

MFP 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission/Power Steering Filter (10mm)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LG8T845?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

You are really just buying the kit for the brackets and the cooler....expesive brackets! You could make the provided hoses and hose clamps work if you wanted to.

I wish I would have grabbed a pic before I put the grill on. The flat black cooler, stainless brackets, and black AN fittings looked really proffessional.

 

Little update on this.

I drove the truck around town quite a bit yesterday. Around 45* ambient temps. I watched the transmission temps steadily increase to 195-200* then hang around those temps.

Thermostat was not pinned.

The return hose after the new cooler was cold when I got home.

We will see how it does in 100* ambient this summer.

 

Getting ready for my new 2025 platinum which is arriving next month.
The first upgrade is going to be the trans cooler. I think i went through this thread at least twice and have a good idea what i'm going to do, but i have some questions before i order parts.

1. Has someone tried Hayden coolers with Internal Pressure By-Pass? It seems to answer to many problems when the OEM by-pass is pinned and no aftermarket by-pass installed. Would safe the hassle of unpinning the t-stat for the winter.

2. Are the Hayden in general good coolers. The price difference compare with Derale might suggest otherwise but i could not find negative reviews.

3. I understand that 53481 is the most popular has 25 cooling rows, but how is it compare to Hayden 698 with 23 cooling rows or Hyden 699 with By-Pass with 30 cooling rows.

4. I see some people install the cooler with both fittings up and some in vertical position(inlet up and outlet on the bottom). Both make sense but what say you, more experienced gurus?

 

I don't have specific answers for you items 1-3 other than row count is one factor, but depth is another. The cooler that came with the aFe kit is stout. A good 2" thick. I think it is a Derale 25 row or comparable.

4. Installing the cooler upside down creates an air trap and wastes cooling capacity. Either install it with the fittings pointed up, or on its side and use the upper fitting as the outlet so the cooler fills from the bottom-up. These coolers have multiple passages and the fluid will take the easiest route every time.

Edit:
I ran a Derale 13503 in my 2012. It was more like the haydens you are talking about, and cheaper. It did just fine for that truck. I was tempted to do the same with the 2025, but this thread had me feeling like more capacity was worthwhile.

 

Actually i was asking about difference in installation with both, IN and OUT connectors facing UP and "sideway" installation when outlet is located on the top and the inlet is in the bottom. Any advantage of one vs. another?

Also, on the "sideways" installation, which connector should go to the top and which to the bottom?
Some claim the inlet should go to the bottom to push the air out, some to the top, so cold fuel moves easier. OEM installation on 4runner the inlet is from the top

 

For those of us who are in this far in the thread for informational purposes, and DO NOT tow, would there be long term harmful effects of pinning the thermostat open and just leaving it that way? Allowing the factory cooler to do its job and regulate temps (whatever is coming out of the lower radiator)?

I would see regularly on my 2013 F150 Ecoboost 6R80 197-205* on trans temps and that just didn't sit well with me, regardless of what the "internet" says.

FYI i am in the south where we see regularly 100* ambient + humidity, with a heat index of over 115*. And that's air temp, and not pavement adjacent temps.

Thoughts?

 

I wouldnt think so. Thats how transmissions had been cooled for years and years. I've even bypassed the radiator portion of oem systems and just gone straight to a cooler from the transmission. Being in SoCal and never really seeing any snow makes it an easy solution.

 

Some people believe overcooling is a real thing. Others say there is no such thing.

Someone one here said our transmissions don't reach full function until 180*

 

With a unit that is constantly generating friction and heat, it makes sense to have the loop opened up all the time.

Worst case I can pull it out and revert back. Overcooling in the winter, maybe, but in the summer, It makes sense to let it flow.l

 

@MaxPayne3 Would this route for a non towing vehicle be harmful?

 

I had mine pinned for approx. 15,000 miles before I put my cooler on. I also left it pinned after my cooler install. I live in Texas, its hot here. With it just pinned and no external cooler it will just take longer to heat up but it will reach higher temps in stop and go traffic. All highway driving temps will stay a bit lower than unpinned.

 

Sounds like an external cooler may be the way to go regardless.

 

need to bypass the oem warmer and radiator, imo.

 

yup. Will dig that diagram out from somewhere in here.

I’ve spent too much already on this truck in the last few weeks. Gonna have to slow my roll.

 

its easy...the bottom hardline from the t-stat is your out....top is in. I plan on doing a Tru-Cool 40k

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/LNG-47391.html

 

It can't be cool enough.. tons of research for the gen2 and many trans builders agree cool as can be.

 

Good looking out.
I’d imagine you could just run two lines up front from the TSTAT and bypass the entire OEM front portion. Just let the cooler and new inline aftermarket thermostat do its thing.

 

yup...cap off the oem lines and plumb your new setup.

 

@6rian Lets see that trans cooler

 

80mph stint down the interstate, 15m drive.

 

You'll want to confirm if that's pan temp or convertor these will vary differently.

 

Trucool ordered before tariffs hit

 

Any advantages when it comes to the warranty by leaving the factory stuff inline?

That was my play....

I could easily see a warranty claim being denied if the factory coolers were disconnected. I'm hopeful that the addition of a cooler and a filter would be looked at more favorably.

 

I removed the chase rack for a new tire carrier coming hopefully later this month, so I had to remove the trans cooler since I don't have an alternate way to mount it in the bed yet. I considered going back to my original plan of using the smaller cooler and mounting it behind the front bash plate, but don't feel confident it'll hold up in that spot if things get rowdy. lol

 

Based on this diagram, I can still use the OEM hoses up to the "puck", pin the thermostat open, install an aftermarket Derale 13402. Pull the two incoming lines off the puck, drain and cap the puck, barb in or something similar to that into the OEM lines, and then to the derale mounted in the grill.

See anything off base here?

 

What should be used to cap the hard lines coming off the puck? I have a cooler on now but I’m considering bypassing the puck as well. Thanks in advance.