2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

https://www.redhorseperformance.com/hose-ends/2000-series-push-lock-hose-ends/

https://www.redhorseperformance.com/hoses/402-series-black-push-lock-hose/

The Toyota WS is always going to be a recommendation, especially under warranty. For what it's worth, when it comes to fluids, Toyota does not approve or endorse any other brands. Can't blame a failure if you bring the receipts for their own fluid . Otherwise IMO a better alternative that I use is the Idemitsu Type TLS LV. Toyota WS is a synthetic blend where as the Idemitsu is full synthetic. The Aisin WS has a different viscosity than the Toyota WS but is also a good alternative.

https://www.idemitsulubricants.com/product/atf-type-tls-lv

I'm not really a big fan of the brands that advertise one size fits most fluids. Take the Redline D6 for example- shows compatibility with Mopar ZF 8 & 9 Speed and GM DEX VI. I would never put GM DEX VI in a Dodge 8 or 9 speed ZF transmission or vice versa. There are also specific modifiers that OEM's use in their transmissions that won't be found in the one size fits all brands. Here's another example, take the Aisin WS brochure- look at the compatibilities and compare them to the ones with Redline D6

https://aisinaftermarket.com/assets/blog/post/616ae440d6942977de7e7922f41d810e.pdf

 

Last tow trip of the season - #5 and mainly rolling hills with small inclines - Denver Colorado Metro to Black Hills SD and back, about 385 miles highway speed each way. Derale 59K btu unit. Ambient air temps - 85 degrees to 93 degrees. Radiator coolant temp max 196, oil temp max 176, transmission oil temp 182 peak max, typically 176. Tow Haul Mode, 70 mph. 2K trailer, tongue weight 190 lbs, average mpg over the entire trip 16 mpg. Transmission thermostat pinned.

 

Is it me or does it seem like we cant get down to 150ish even with a pinned t-stat?

 

Lowest mine has ever run after being driven and totally warmed up was 156. The ambient air was in the low 70's and I was descending down hill. Lasted that way until I started back up hill - where it returned to mid 170's. I will take the mid 170's all day long.

 

Even if it's at 170 it's still within good operating range for the fluid. With 10 speeds, there's a lot more clutches involved which are going to generate more heat. It's when you get over 210 when the fluid will start breaking down faster.

 

I took the first long trip on my truck this weekend, and it ran the following temperatures during interstate speeds, lightly loaded, in 75 degree weather: Coolant 190-195, Oil 210-215, Transmission 190-195.

 

https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-80009-bladerunner-transmission-oil-cooler-kit

Good Morning! Worth the purchase?

 

How would we know? It's not out yet

 

Looks just like the Derale I installed. Mine was about 1/3 the cost they are asking.

 

I have not had a chance to read this whole thread, but I am very interested. Just brought home a 2025 Tundra.

I put an auxiliary cooler in my 2nd gen Tundra for my 7000# trailer. In that truck, with the cooler, the pan temperature peaked briefly at 220 after a long pull up a steep grade in 95 ambient. Otherwise, it never went above 205. It also had a thermostat around 195. The output line of my add-on cooler was ice cold even after difficult climbs.

I would like to expand the trans cooling capacity of my 2025 for that same trailer and same steep grade. I would likely leave the factory components in-line in an attempt to protect my warranty.

Has anyone bought and installed the AFE kit?

How difficult is it to "fabricate" your own mounts if I just go with a universal option? I have noticed there is ample space behind the grill for a cooler. I guess that's what happens when you put a V6 in a truck big enough for a V8?

What is the best diagram for understanding trans fluid flow? I want a firm grasp on how the fluid is cooled by factory means. I dont understand the purpose of the "puck" if the fluid doesnt even leave the trans until 195? Does the puck come before or after the radiator?

 

Start post #121 and forward my posts from there or read all the posts - lots of good information. The puck does not cool - it only heats. Posts and details will show you where to intercept the oem line and where/ how to pin the transmission thermostat. There is no dedicated external cooler so yes if you tow you should IMO add an external transmission oil cooler. I used a Derale 53482 - about $220 and made my own brackets to install - detailed in noted post. GL.

 

Thanks,

My 2012 tundra had a heating puck (albiet mounted on the thermostat) and a thermostat with a pin as these trucks apparently do. I have not rolled under my new truck to peek.

I was happy with the temps on my 2012 when towing wiht a derale 13503 (20,000 BTU). Hung around 200 except on the most challenging of climbs with the thermostat UNpinned.

I am surprised about the lack luster results this group is seeing until the thermostat is pinned open.

 

I'm installing a Derale 15870 to be a stand alone system (bypassing the radiator and puck). Cooler will be mounted in the bed.

Size comparison of the 15870 and 15860 shown above (same size 19 row cooler as the AFE kit).

 

I've been thinking about this over the last couple of days.

I am baffled as to why the heater puck exists after the radiator.

So the fluid is:
- Heated by the trans
- Once 195 or higher, it leaves the trans
- It enters the cold(ish) lower radiator and is cooled to something less than 195
- It enters the puck and is reheated to engine temp by hot coolant - 200?
- Re-enters the trans....maybe a few degrees cooler than it started?

It seems like this design would really limit the ability of the cooler as the minimium temperature of the re-entering fluid would be around engine coolant temp - 200 degrees?

It seems like hitting the puck first, then the radiator, then an aux cooler would result in the the lowest fluid temps going back into the trans.

Why the puck???? Any why after the factory cooler??

 

The ATF cooler puck is fed coolant from the lower radiator tank. Thus, it receives the same temperature coolant as the ATF cooler that is mounted in the lower tank.

 

Thanks! Obviously I assumed it was a warmer from a hot coolant source.

 

Understandable given past Toyota systems.

 

Can someone confirm the size of factory trans cooler hoses? It seems the consensus is 3/8 ID from reading this thread. I'm guessing it's actually a metric size...10mm?

I bought the afe kit from a member on here. It came with 3/8" lines, but the barbs for the cooler itself measure at 1/2" at the smallest. Quite a stretch for 3/8" hose. I think the reason is that 3/8 barbs are rare for -8AN fittings. 1/2" seems to be the standard.

I don't want to pull my factory lines to measure barbs until I'm ready to top the trans fluid off with the new cooler in circuit. Has someone confirmed that 3/8" lines are right-sized for the factory hose barbs? Last thing I want to do is restrict flow.

 

3/8 fit my factor connection at the location I intercepted the line, and my Derale cooler kit. I'd take your AFE down to the auto parts store and see what they have that is a compromise for it and oem. Hopefully they have metric. I do agree that the 3/8 was tight and likely could have been slightly larger (but not an 1/8 larger) it was not stretched more that I would expect over the connections.

 

Thanks. Best I can tell, the factory lines are 10mm. 3/8 is 9.5mm.

What's the level of concern with voiding the warranty on the trans or other components by installing a cooler on a brand new truck?

I have a 8yr/100k warranty. It's making me question if I should be doing this.... Also curious what the ethics of removing the cooler before I take it in if the trans ever acts up are?

This thread has me convinced that the truck should have come with a dedicated cooler. I agree with the commentary in this thread....not installing a HD dedicated trans cooler was a business decision based on the idea that most people dont tow, not an engineering one. It's ridiculous to me that a half ton touted to tow up to 12,000 lbs doesn't have a factory option for a HD trans cooler.

I'm also a bit more lenient than you all.....225 at the conclusion of a long, steep grade doesn't bother me as long as there is cooling capacity to bring it back down to the thermostat temp (195?) quickly.

 

I'd rather know it was running cool (mid to sub 180) than know it was cooking at 215 plus every time you drove it. If necessary, I'd remove the unit before I took it in for a proven transmission issue. I'm under warranty and have no concern about the mod. I suppose if you changed the transmission fluid every 30K or less you could move on and call it good, but that too could cause failures. It is my truck - so I will be the one to pay the price either way. I prefer to have the cooler and based on the temps I see towing I would not go without it.

 

I feel like removing a properly installed cooler to avoid the red tape or possible denial of warranty is a grey area ethically. However, it is the reason I am not making any permanent mods to the truck until it gets older.

I am a freak about transmission fluid condition. I do a drain/fill on all of my vehicles once per year. I have seen that method eventually make the fluid on a used vehicle become nice and fresh over time. The last drain on my 2012 Tundra looked brand new. I figure a once-per-year refresh is better than a full change every 30-50K.

I have only ever towed my 7000# travel trailer with an aftermarket aux cooler installed on the tow vehicles. I have never purchased a brand new truck under warranty, however.

 

Speaking of which, does anyone know the trans level set temperature on the 3rd gen tundra? I have only found the method to put the truck in fluid check mode, which is clunky IMO.

 

if you were to do a drain and fill, I would not worry about the temp level set process (of course this presumes it was correct from the factory - but hey we have all been driving them that way from day one so why question it). I just do them cold and put back the exact amount that came out.

 

same. I like pumping it out of a cooler line...low psi and I can pump out 3qts at a time and just fill it back up....rinse and repeat a few times

 

I installed the aFe cooler this weekend. Sorry, I don't have any installed pictures.

I ran AN 8 lines to the back of the radiator then stepped down the to 3/8 hose that came with the kit before the factory connections. Also installed a magnetic filter on the return line right before the factory connections.

I spent no small amount of time trying to route and secure the hoses to keep everything from chafing.

I will say it took 1.5 qts before the trans would overflow at temperature. Used the car scanner app to get it to 99-109° for level set.

 

Hope you pinned the thermostat too. Worth the effort! Nice job.

 

I pinned it per the procedure to set the fluid level in the trans, if that is what you are asking.

It's currently not pinned. I will experiment with pinned/not pinned when towing season starts. It's cold around here right now, so I'll let the factory thermostat keep doing its thing.