2021 Non-JBL Wiring Diagram

Yes I did, and now they sound even better! I made a post asking for some pointers on the Audio Frog Facebook page and got some really good information and tips to help me tune them. "Corner Loading" them in the dash corners can make some weird reflections (and on my RTA mic I had a major dip at 1.3k and 1.6k on both corners) but it really boosts everything else. Guitar solos get super bright which I love (especially with the GB10s), vocals are crystal clear, drums have super good impact that when turned up loud enough can make you wince if you aren't ready for them lol. When I asked the "professionals" about the dips I had they said it's most likely just some form of a reflection off the the wind shield (which it was) so instead of boosting it a ton like I had it to start because I didn't know any better they said it was best to leave it flat in that area and just do the best I could to bring every other frequency down to it's level.

I'm sure it still could use some fiddling with to get perfect, but I am extremely happy the way it sounds right now. Every instrument sounds amazing and clear I honestly have no complaints whatsoever.

And good job on those sail panels! Looks like a lot of tedious work (and I'm glad I could make mine work because I really would not want to do that myself lol). They came out looking great based off the pictures!

 

That's awesome, I'll def be considering them for the lack of dash modification when I go to add some midranges. I finally got around to doing some work on the truck today. I ended up buying a full box of Resonix CLD, and after working with them today, I can confidently say they're a high quality product. I had some other "Mesa" sound deadening that I got a year or two ago from my local car audio shop that I used as well. The Mesa brand stuff I have is noticeably thinner both in the butyl and aluminum layers, but it worked nicely for going over seams and in little spots. I tried to keep count (lol) and I tried using 10 sheets of Resonix CLD per door (40 per box/4 doors). I tried keeping the sheets as whole as possible. Started on the driver side door, should have started in the rear or passenger, because by the second door I was moving a lot faster and installing better. Got a little wonky using cut off bits on the driver side sail panel, reduce reuse recycle was my thought. I know you're not supposed to do little pieces like that but oh well. Decided since I have a riv nut tool and a bunch of nutserts and bolts, as well as a jigsaw and ability to borrow my Dad's bandsaw, that I'm going to toss the crappy 3 mil or whatever plastic they use as a block off plate, and use ABS sheets for the two large holes on each door. Have to drill some holes in the door panels, but I figured if I've come this far I might as well do everything right, and honestly I hate putting the plastic back on anyways. I can get a 2'x3' sheet of .236" ABS at Menards for $30. Previously used it for amp racks and it's rigid enough to do the job. That'll be a project for another day once I get the 2 rear doors done. Pics below of the progress from today. I took apart the rear passenger door before stopping today just to get it apart and look at things. Last pic is that door, and lo and behold it looks like Toyota installed a single strip of CLD in the rear doors which I thought was funny. Neither of the front doors have it which seems odd but whatever, can't complain lol.

I also took the opportunity to test fit one of the Focal ES165K2 13/16" tweeters I have for the rears. The factory tweeter is smaller and I was worried the K2 tweeter would be too large. Removing the trim ring and grill, and delicately pressing it in bends the plastic of the built in door tweeter mount, but it miraculously fits and clicks into place which was a huge relief. I'll do a more thorough job of fitting them and putting some CCF around the front of them before final install, but man I feel like I lucked out big time gambling on those and having them fit. Glad I went with the K2 model that has the slightly smaller tweeter, as anything bigger would definitely not fit.

 

Got the back doors done between Sunday and yesterday, finished them just when I was starting to get good at it (insert sarcasm). I’ve got a few sheets left over that I plan on using on touch ups here and there.

On a slightly different note, I also got the block off plates for the front doors cut. I picked up some kids science project foam board from the dollar store. Used a utility knife to cut out the rough shapes and then slip them into the holes so that I could trace the holes fairly accurately. Cut out the inside shape. I then used a mcguyvered protractor consisting of a pen taped to a chopstick so that I could widen out the template to overhang the door holes. After a couple rounds of that I had a fairly accurate template that required a couple free hand adjustments. Cut out the final shape from the foam board and then traced it on 1/4” ABS. Used a jigsaw to cut out both block off plates for the driver and passenger front doors. Next up will be using the foam as a template to poke holes through and determine where I’ll drill holes for my rivet nuts. Will post pics of that when I get to it. Pics below for stuff described above.

 

Made some more progress the last week. Since I had the doors taken apart I figured it'd be a good opportunity to spray the insides with cavity wax. I used the 3M version, similar to Fluid Film and probably would used that in the future, but this stuff is more akin to Cosmoline and is waxy. Cleaned out the doors of metal shavings from drilling holes and vacuumed out the crud.

Next up I felt around the inside of the openings to determine where I'd place my rivet nuts/nutserts. Marked the locations with an X and cut off the CLD to accomodated the nutserts. In hindsight, I'd do the nutserts before CLD next time to skip this step.



Grabbed some transfer tape from the craft store, traced my panels, laid the transfer tape onto the door and made sure to have even overhang on all sides, and then marked my x's on the transfer tape. Next I laid the transfer tape on top of my panels and drilled my holes.



I then put my panels on the door, lined up my holes with the spots I had removed CLD, and used a nail set to mark the center of my holes on the door.



Drilled out my holes in the door using a small bit for pilot hole, a step bit to widen the holes, and a 9mm bit to get the final diameter (6mm nutsert calls for a 9mm hole). Used a 2 in 1 paint/primer automotive pen/brush to paint the bare metal of the holes and anywhere else around them I'd scratched while removing CLD or marking pilot holes.



One of the nutserts from the back



I used closed cell foam from the hardware store on the back side of the panels to decouple them from the doors



Pic doesn't show it and although I don't have a router, I used an orbital sander with 80 grit to chamfer the edges. They're not perfect like a router would be, but they're rounded and plenty good for something that will never be seen. Used M6x15mm pan head screws to attach the panels to the doors.


Definitely learned a lot doing this and some things I would definitely do differently next time. Main thing is windows still function 100%. Happy with the results. When I was probably 3/4 of the way into doing this, I was looking at Youtube and came across Car Audio Fabrication's video on doing this, and much to my surprise, for once in my life I wasn't an idiot and actually had a pretty similar method to him. His was obviously done better/more professionally, but I didn't skip any steps and was pretty proud of my ingenuity.

I also got new speaker wire pulled for all 4 doors, and loomed. Learned the wires through the circular side of a socket/crescent wrench trick a year or so ago and man what a life saver, makes looming wires so much easier. I waffled back and forth on what part of the plug to drill to accomodate the new wires for the back doors. Taco Tunes has a video on this and while I ended up doing the same spot, I was a little more careful.

I pulled the plugs apart (pain in the ass figuring that out). On the male side (interior side) I used a pair of flush cutters to cut the two small points in red, causing the clip my thumb is touching to be removed.



On the female side I ended up using a dremel to cut/remove the area in red to fit the new wires. These plugs are a tight fit once they're connected together in the B pillar. I was worried about the metal of the b-pillar rubbing on the wires and eventually shorting them, so I wrapped them together with Tesa tape and fed them through the opening. I realized when I went to grab my wire I had ordered 18 gauge and 14 instead of 16 like an idiot. Bigger wires never hurt anything except when trying to squeeze them through tight spaces. I ended up putting a small piece of CLD around the edge of the opening. That combined with the wires wrapped in Tesa tape will hopefully prevent failure. Worst case scenario it fails and I figure something else out. (CLD not pictured).



Pulling wires is always a pain in the ass but was actually not the worst in this truck. Had a Dakota once upon a time that was way more of a pain, although I'm not a fan of the connectors for the back doors. The front doors are wires straight through, which I get is worse if replacing a door. Pulling apart the B pillar trim was surprisingly easy, as was removing the back seats and carpet draped back there. I think what I'll do is build my amp rack to attach on the removable rear window cover panel but I've gotta mock up a cardboard model of my amp/gear to make sure it will have clearance etc. with enough room to eventually add a a sub box back there as well. Amp rack will likely going behind the rear passenger seat as the rear seats are a 60/40 split and that one comes out alone/easier to get out. Sub/box will go behind the other seats as that's more set and forget. Next step will be pulling power and ground to the back and after that, cutting an amp rack and getting everything wired up on the bench before install. Still lots of work to do but the major PITA parts are done besides running power/ground and RCA's which shouldn't be too bad. I say that now and will probably regret saying that this weekend.

 

Nice work!

I really like the way you made those block off plates/speaker brackets. I would have done the same on my install had I had the tools and knowledge of doing so.

If you still have your templates, would you mind posting the dimensions for others to go off of if they were to do the same? I'm debating buying another Tundra as a work truck/daily since the miles are getting so high on my current one which will then turn into the weekend cruiser. If I do, I'll most likely do another system and would like to do something like that. Hard part is finding the right one for the right price as I'm pretty picky lol

 

Disclaimer for anyone reading: tread lightly doing this project and be sure to check clearance of your rivet nuts prior to mirroring one side to the other. It is vitally important to 1) be careful when drilling holes so as to not hit any wires or structure the other side and 2) ensure there is clearance for the window to work 100% properly without hitting any rivet nuts or screws. Rivet nut size and more so screw length are important so as to not interfere with window operation. If you're not comfortable doing this, highly recommend the pre-fabbed block off plates from the folks at Sounds Good Stereo (link below, I am not affiliated with them in any way/shape/form, have just been a customer of theirs in the past and they are a stellar company). Those guys/gals are the bees knees and speaking from personal experience, I have no doubt their block off plates would work better than mine, look better, be faster/easier to install, and if there were any fitment issues they would rectify them. If you're a tinkerer and like to DIY for the sense of accomplishment like me, keep reading:


Sure thing! I've got the templates stuck to the wall in my garage so I measured them with pics below. I would definitely get some transfer tape to trace the shapes and use my measurements as a general guide as well as use the general locations of my x's to mark holes. Troublesome thing is that the sheet metal around the openings has a lot of ridges and valleys and is hard to find flat spots which are best for the rivet nuts. On the rear passenger/driver bottom plate I'd skip doing the bottom middle hole on the peak there as it gets pretty close to the window when it's rolled all the way down, and if a screw extended past the rivet nut it could hit the window and crack it. Also not included on the pics are the cut outs to let the door handle wires pass through but those are easy enough to figure out and cut out. I lined those edges with CLD to be extra cautious of rubbing. As for tools/total cost of doing them and what to expect, here is a list and cost breakdown. I'm in the midwest and am fortunate to have Menards which has everything for super cheap. The next best option would probably be a combo of Home Depot and Amazon, although you might be able to source things locally cheaper:

.22" Black HDPE Sheet 2' x 3' = $29.99 (x2 for four doors) (2' x 4' 1/4" PVC at Home Depot is ~$52)

Rivet Nut Tool (I have the Astro Pneumatic 1452 which is ~$70, they have a new combination rivet nut and pop rivet tool, the Astro Pneumatic 1453, ~60, link:

$95 Astro Pneumatic - Combination Rivet Nut And Pop Rivet Setter Kit (1453)

Amazon.com: Astro Pneumatic - Combination Rivet Nut And Pop Rivet Setter Kit (1453) : Automotive) (Harbor Freight also has one for ~$50). I would go with the Astro 1453, but really you just want one that can set m4, m6, m8 rivet nuts unless you plan on doing heavy duty stuff in other areas of your truck, in which case the 1452 is nice because it can do all those smaller sizes plus larger ones like m12 and 1/2", only caveat is that the 1453 doesn't come with the smaller mandrels and nose pieces but you can buy them on amazon for ~$10 a piece.

Jig Saw (I'd buy a corded one if you don't plan to use often so as to not have batteries that go bad in 5 years and they don't make them anymore). Amazon has a variety, looks like they have a Skil one for $35 on sale (normally $40):

$44 SKIL 5 Amp Corded Jig Saw- JS313101

SKIL 5 Amp Corded Jig Saw- JS313101 - Amazon.com.

Orbital Sander (not required, but nice to chamfer the edges so they're not so sharp, again corded vs cordless is cost vs usage & batteries) Amazon has a variety, again a Skil one on sale for $30, normally $35:

$38 SKIL 5” Random Orbital Sander with Cyclonic Dust Box & 3pc Sanding Sheet - SR211601, Multicolor

SKIL 5” Random Orbital Sander with Cyclonic Dust Box & 3pc Sanding Sheet - SR211601, Multicolor - Amazon.com

M6 Stainless Steel Rivet Nuts: I bought a couple packs of 40 which was plenty, $9 each x 2:

$9 40pcs M6 Rivet Nuts Stainless Steel Threaded Rivet Insert Nuts Rivnuts Nutsert M6-1.0mm

Amazon.com: 40pcs M6 Rivet Nuts Stainless Steel Threaded Rivet Insert Nuts Rivnuts Nutsert M6-1.0mm : Industrial & Scientific

M6 Button Head Screws: I got plain button head, flange head would probably have been better. For length I got some 16mm and 20mm. If I did it again, I would stick to 16mm and use thinner CCF in between the panels and the door. Main thing is you don't want the screws to extend way past your rivet nuts or they might hit the window. 20mm were easier to use with thicker CCF and I didn't have any extend past the nut sert, but 16mm is plenty. Again, on amazon, M6-1.0x16mm Flange Head ones here:

$9 M6-1.0 x 16mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Bright Finish, Full Thread, Allen Socket Drive, 25 PCS

M6-1.0 x 16mm Flanged Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Stainless Steel 18-8 (304), Bright Finish, Full Thread, Allen Socket Drive, 25 PCS: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific I'd buy 3 packs to be safe, $9 x 3

Closed Cell Foam Strips: Again, amazon. I used 1" x 1" which ended up being a pita to compress and get the screws to grab the nut serts. In hindsight, I'd use something like 1" wide x 1/2" thick, or this 1" wide by 3/8" thick on Amazon:

$14 TORRAMI Adhesive Foam Tape 1" W X 3/8" T, Closed Cell Foam Weather Strip Seal Insulation (Total 13 Ft Length, 2 Rolls of 6.5 Ft Each)

Amazon.com: TORRAMI Adhesive Foam Tape 1 inch W X 3/8 inch T, Closed Cell Foam Weather Strip Seal Insulation (Total 13 Ft Length, 2 Rolls of 6.5 Ft Each) : Everything Else I'd probably buy 3 or roughly 40 feet worth and you'd have some to spare and definitely wouldn't run out, can also use this stuff on other areas to decouple/stop wire or clip rattles.

Utility Knife: Goes without saying, any cheap one will do.

Transfer Tape: I used Cricut brand from a craft store, Amazon has it for ~$4 a roll. Amazon also has "TapeManBlue" 12" x 50" for ~$17 which would be more than enough. In total you probably need about ~20 feet worth to mark all the doors, but you can just flip it over on panels to replicate from driver to passenger side which would take about half the amount, or ~10 feet worth.

Drill: Most people have a cordless drill, if not any decent corded or cordless will do. A small bit to drill pilot holes is necessary, and then I used a combination of a step bit and then a 9mm bit to get the final diameter. I didn't have a metric step bit hence the combo of step and regular bit, but if you have a step bit that goes to 9mm you could just use that. Bits are cheap on amazon: 9mm

$8 9mm Metric M35 Cobalt Steel Extremely Heat Resistant Twist Drill Bit of 1pcs with Straight Shank to Cut Through Hard Metals Such as Stainless Steel and Cast Iron, 5% Cobalt M35 Grade HSS-CO

9mm Metric M35 Cobalt Steel Extremely Heat Resistant Twist Drill Bit of 1pcs with Straight Shank to Cut Through Hard Metals Such as Stainless Steel and Cast Iron, 5% Cobalt M35 Grade HSS-CO - Amazon.com, Step Bit:

$9 uxcell Step Drill Bit HSS 3mm to 13mm 11 Sizes Titanium Coated Straight Flutes Hex Shank for Metal Wood Plastic

Amazon.com: uxcell Step Drill Bit HSS 3mm to 13mm 11 Sizes Titanium Coated Straight Flutes Hex Shank for Metal Wood Plastic : Industrial & Scientific

Touch Up Paint for newly drilled holes: I found a Toyota OEM one on Amazon for $15. Super handy to have for this project and just in general for any little scratches etc. on your truck.

Total DIY Cost: Roughly ~$350-$400 including tools listed above, not including drill, utility knife etc. If tools can be borrowed from a friend, knock off ~$80. Most people don't have a rivet nut tool but they're fairly inexpensive and tons of fun to use.

I'd also like to mention/give a shout out to the wonderful folks over at Sounds Good Stereo. I bought an F-150 amp rack from them and it was top notch quality CNC'd thick plastic and was a perfect fit in that truck. They offer block off plates for 2014-2021 Tundra's at a cost of $342 and free shipping. It looks like their method of attachment is self tapping sheet metal screws. Nothing against that, but my personal preference would be rivet nuts for ability to take off/put back on without stripping holes out. Could use those cheap little U shaped metal screw hole clip things to combat that. In any case, cost is honestly probably about the same. I like tinkering and it's nice to be able to build the tool box for future projects, and left over CCF, touch up paint, drill bit, rivet nuts/screws can be used in other projects as well. I will say it took quite a bit of time and the stress of drilling etc. would be negated by having perfectly CNC'd panels with hole locations already marked. You could also opt to buy their panels, and get just the rivet nut tool, rivet nuts, screws, drill bit, CCF, and touch up paint for maximum efficiency and "professionalism". Link to their panels and again, huge shoutout to them as they are definitely leaders in the industry, heard Dean/Fernando from 5 Star mention them on a livestream one day as well: Custom Door Block Off Plates - Compatible with 2014-2021 Toyota Tundra – Sounds Good Stereo

Happy to answer any questions/give advice on my mistakes, what I'd do differently etc. if I were to do it again, cheers!



Front Driver/Passenger Bottom Plate:








Front Driver/Passenger Top Plate:









Rear Driver/Passenger Bottom Plate:










Rear Driver/Passenger Top Plate:

 

Not sure why the one pic at the bottom of the post above got duplicated, but that one should be under the rear driver/passenger bottom plate pics.

 

Well my work is finally done (for now). I purchased a UMIK-1 but have yet to unbox/calibrate/download REW for it. For the time being until sometime in the fall I'll be running my setup passive using the included crossovers. I ended up making an amp rack that screws into the back metal panel of the truck (pics below). I sound deadened the metal panel. Future expansion plans are to get a Helix V-12 along with a new subwoofer amp, 1 or 2 JL 10tw3's, and some mid ranges for the dash corner and possibly center since the Helix DSP's apparently have a pretty nifty center channel feature. For now I've got my trusty ol 8w7 in the back. As it stands the system sounds pretty darn good I'd say. Definitely the best system I've had in a vehicle. The FRAK tweeters are pretty sweet. Glad I went with the K2 set that included the smaller tweeters for the back. They basically clipped into place in the existing rear tweeter mounts.

Some mistakes I made and things I learned:

For the front doors, if you're doing block off plates, use a thinner more flexible plastic, especially on the drivers side door. The arm rest of the door, particularly on the drivers side, must sit nearly flush with the opening when it's covered with the plastic wrap from the factory. If you're using rivnuts, I'd say follow the old engine building tip of "it's okay to take an an engine apart with a drill, but not put back together". Since the sheet metal around the openings in the doors has so many valleys and ridges, the rivnuts have a tendency to be angled ever so slightly up, down, or left/right. Learned the hard way that if you cross thread a rivnut, it ends up spinning in the hole and you have to cut off the bolt and drill out the rivnut. A real pain in the ass. Take your time and install the panels by hand, that way you can feel if a bolt is starting to cross thread before it gets stuck and starts spinning your rivnut. Also when doing the panels, in hindsight, make your cutouts for the door cables to pass through in the center rather than along the edge. Again, learned this one the hard way and ended up having to redo the driver upper panel not only because of the plastic thickness/inflexibility, but also having the cutout along the edge caused the door cables to bend far enough that the window was catching them on the way up. Again, a real pain in the ass to figure out.

I posted on another thread about using Deutsch connectors. Felt like a dumbass for a couple days because I could not for the life of me figure out why I wasn't getting sound out of the RCA outputs on my new head unit. Ended up reflashing the Maestro RR countless times with different configurations and it wasn't until I called iDatalink support that I realized I needed to check all my connections for a 4th or 5th time (lost count lol). Since the deutsch connectors are fully sealed, you can't really see if they're fully connected or not. Lo and behold they weren't. Redid them and everything worked like a charm. Felt like a grade-A idiot but lesson learned for the next time I use them. They are super nifty and I would definitely recommend them for any DIY quick release wiring projects, audio or otherwise.

Got the included microphone mounted using the 3D printed custom mic mount from Trail Grid Pro. Actually lost the one they included with my order (or they forgot it but more likely I lost it lol) and ended up ordering another for $9. Definitely worth the cost and the thing holds a mic and clips into the overhead factory location perfectly.

I added a front camera off Amazon that was kind of a pain in the ass and I kind of mangled the rubber grommet on the passenger side pulling the wire connector through.

$60 AUTO-VOX CAM7 Pro Backup Camera, IP69K Waterproof and Fisheye Correction 1080P HD Clear Rear/Front View Reverse Camera, 180°Super Wide Angle Back up Camera for Cars,Truck,Camper,Van

Amazon.com: AUTO-VOX CAM7 Pro Backup Camera, IP69K Waterproof and Fisheye Correction 1080P HD Clear Rear/Front View Reverse Camera, 180°Super Wide Angle Back up Camera for Cars,Truck,Camper,Van : Electronics The camera itself actually has really good picture quality and mounting it was a breeze. I ended up drilling a hold directly beneath my grille logo, cutting a couple wire loops and voila, works like a charm and the picture quality is actually probably slightly better than my factory rear cam. Having the front camera has already been nice for parking though so worth it. Need to get a new tube of RTV silicone and patch both of the grommets. I ran 0 gauge for future expansion along the drivers side. Fabbed a small plastic mount to attach my fuse holder to. For the ground in the rear, behind the rear cab corner trim there's actually a factory grounding point on either side. Removing the seat belt bolts on all 4 seats, the b-pillar trim on both sides, and the rear cab corners is actually super easy and made wiring everything a ton easier. B-pillars are definitely a necessity if you're running new speaker wire. I ended up sanding it down to bare metal and haven't had any alternator whine etc.

For my remote turn on wire, I ended using an add-a-circuit rather than running a wire to the head unit. I'd have to double check again but I believe on the driver kick panel fuse box the outside legs on the fuse panel on both sides of the panel are the hot sides. Always want to make sure if you're using an add a circuit that you've got it wired correctly that way current is actually flowing through the fuses properly.

Pic dump of some of the stuff I mentioned above: