2020 1794 JBL Audio question

Could it be that the signal for the dash speakers was still being routed through the stock JBL AMP (but still powered by the HU) as part of the CAN/BUS and now it's being routed through the DSR1 but still powered by the HU? The DSR1 has many features and needs to be setup correctly. James did this for me but in looking around you can program the number of outputs - could your outputs in the DSR1 be set to the four door speakers and sub and not including the dash speakers? Just as guess.....

 

The front tweeters and dash speakers are wired in parallel. So your dash speakers are being powered from the 5 channel amp.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...n-tundra-jbl-entune-system.22527/#post-539924

 

You got me then...I'm lost on this one. All I know is all my speakers work using a 5-channel amp.

 

So somewhat related question. I've been debating on doing that Infinity Kappa 5 kit that James offers. Emailed him last week, he told me he usually leaves the dash speakers disconnected, you wont miss them.. So the question then is.. Are you running new speaker wires from the 5channel amp to each door or are you using the factory wiring to each speaker?

 

Something that I haven't seen mentioned in here is that if you have a 2020 and are using Toyota Connect (the new app for 2020 that lets you track, remote start, remote lock/unlock, set guest/valet limits on your truck), you can not change out the head unit. All of that is programmed directly into the head unit, and can not be transferred, or installed on any aftermarket head unit. This is one thing that makes updating the 2020 system a bit more complicated than previous years.

 

Yet ANOTHER reason I DO NOT want to change out the HU. Thanks for this update, I haven 't seen it anywhere else.

 

Factory wiring will be sufficient. Save lots of time too.

 

Weird and ever more confusing. The dash speakers are a LARGE part of the sound in the front...especially in terms of staging. I bought his Kenwood group buy for dash but was waiting on the harness which should be delivered today so I'm still running stock dash and they produce A LOT of sound - almost too much. I found if I position the fader rearward one or two clicks it decreases the output of the dash to give a nicer blended sound. I'll install the Kenwoods tonight and see how it goes.

The only new wire I ran was for the subwoofer - I did this during the install on Tuesday since I already had the rear seats and trim disassembled to do sound deadening back there. I figure out of all the speakers the sub is the only one getting sufficient power to make the upgrade to a new wire worth it.

 

Good to know! I just want to be able to return the truck to stock with as little effort as possible. At this point I have all the stock speakers/amp saved and with about an hour's worth of effort I can pull everything out and replace with all the stock equipment. I actually don't mind the stock HU all that much. I have wireless Carplay through an adapter working almost flawlessly - there's a hiccup in the sound every now and then that is not there if I use the wired Carplay. I get in and through my phone on the wireless charger and it all syncs up - easy.

 

The route that I went as to not affect the system is I got a new amp to run in line with the existing one. The existing one will power the dash speakers, due to me not wanting to change out the head unit, but also not wanting to sacrifice my center speaker (which can happen with other setups), and the other - more powerful one will power all of my door speakers, and my new sub - which will get a custom enclosure. This will not be a cheap solution, but I think it's the best solution for me to get what I want - while keeping my stock capabilities, and my stock door speakers - which I don't think are all that bad. I honestly think the sound QUALITY of the JBL Premium system is pretty nice, it's clear, it has good tone - but the power is terrible - I can have a fairly normal conversation with the volume maxed out. I just wanted it to be significantly louder, with significantly more bass.

 

I'm still confused as to what my aftermarket amp is powering since I have sound coming from both Rt/Lt dash and center speakers and the stock JBL is sitting in my closet. I have a solid understanding of quantum mechanics and yet I find figuring this out more difficult...lol

 

Yes, The Californian, this is what I want to do I think, out of necessity for my purposes. Have you done it and can you elaborate on where you made the connections in the system for the new amp? Are you using a DSR1?

I felt bad for redirecting this thread to my issue so I started another with Waze in the title.

 

Curious why you're saying this won't be cheap as you seem to only be buying a new sub and an amp. All other solutions have this plus more equipment.

 

Bump - I would love to know the result of this as well. How the wiring looks and where you placed the new amp.

 

L/R dash speakers and front door tweeters are connected in the unmodified system. Unless you separated them during your install, I suspect by feeding your tweeters you are getting the dash downstream. I don’t know the relationship with the center dash speaker for sure, but it must also be in the chain. I isolated my dash because the door tweeters are fed by the main front channel wiring through the crossover.

 

I'm not really sure, maybe the DSR1 can power those dash speakers; I was told it can not.

I haven't done it yet, I'm more of a home DIYer, but have no interest in messing with car electrical work, or really doing much in the form of mods on my truck - I'd rather leave that to the pros. I am not using a DSR1, I am using the ARC Audio PS8-50.

I'm going with a bigger amp so it can grow with me if I decide to go bigger on my system; I'm installing the ARC Audio PS8-50 which is ~$1,200 on it's own. For my sub I'm putting in the Solo-Baric L7 10", which is ~$300. Getting my harnesses and wires is going to be another $100-$200. Then getting a custom built slim enclosure to make the sub fit nicely back where the factory one is. All in I'm going to be a bit over $2000 if I decide to install myself.

I'll try to get some pics once the install gets going; I have it scheduled for next month.

 

But what is powering my center speaker then? It absolutely works and it is not powered by the aftermarket amp. My understanding was front door speakers and tweeters, as well as rear door speakers and tweeters, were power by stock JBL amp. The Rt/Lt dash speakers were powered by the HU and the center speaker was just a summed signal from the two Rt/Lt dash speakers.

On my after market amp I plugged in the rear door speakers (which also drive the rear door tweeters), the front door speakers but had to also plug in the front door tweeters and the sub. The question is if I unplug the front tweeter speaker wires do the dash speakers and center speakers still work? If yes, the HU powers them and if not then the tweeter wire from new amp is powering the front door tweeters and center channel.

 

This doesn't make sense to me.. From what I understand its the factory JBL amp thats leveling off low-end when you increase volume on the HU. So why amplify that already degraded signal by putting an amp downstream to the factory JBL amp?

 

Very true, it might not work properly. I’m hoping someone who has tried it will fill us in. Also hoping the DSR1 will correct the compromised/limited signal coming from the factory amp as well as it does instead of the amp. The DSR1 has speaker level inputs, so this seems like it could work if properly configured. The challenge in seeking this info is that there hasn’t been any apparent reason to try it unless you have the 2020 HU.

 

The factory JBL amp will be powering my dash speakers only; the second amp will power all of my door speakers, and my subwoofer.

 

Well, this is the way I am leaning since I have a 2020, bur I am at least 3 months away from spending the coin.

 

Does anyone know the best way to contact James to get some specific help?

 

It amazes me that someone hasn't found a way to increase the poor/dirty signal from the stock head unit. The stock speakers (JBL)(aftermarket HU)in my opinion do just fine. The stock HU signal just needs to be bumped up a little, I noticed this when playing songs from my phone and other apps the volume was a bit better with the stock HU.

 

This

The hiss IMO is not a big deal. I adjusted my gains today with the engine running and it's only audible with no music playing, the HVAC off and the engine off. Even adding just a little bit of gain has really increased the "pop" of the four door speakers.

 

I believe he prefers email -- tech12volts at gmail dot com

 

He usually responds to email within mins unless it’s the weekend. Then it may take a few hours. Always very responsive.

 

Agreed. Very fast replies.

 

Anyone figure out how or if it is the dsr1 causing no audio from waze and then Alexa not to work? Here is a link to the Maestro DSR1 board http://www.12voltdata.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=427

 

Just a guess based on that board you posted but if the 2020 Tundra update is not out yet and there is no ETA my guess is there was enough of a difference between 2019 and 2020 that this update required significant work and that may explain some of the issues. Just a guess...

 

Agree ZPMAN! There has to be an easier solution to increasing the signal from the HU. Has to be because certain sources sound good. Others, horrible.