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2018 Crewmax Audio Upgrade

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by therussypooh, Jul 18, 2020.

  1. Jul 18, 2020 at 11:07 AM
    #1
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Wanted to start by saying THANK YOU to everyone on the Audio & Video forum. @TundraTex @Danimal86 @dspilot @Netmonkey the detailed threads by these guys is all you need to get better sound.

    The how to has already been covered, I'm just going to present the way I did it (I'm about half way done as of now). And probably ask some questions as I finish up the install.

    2018 Tundra Crewmax non-JBL
    Equipment:
    Wiring Harness
    https://autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html
    -this is a must and makes it super easy
    LOC
    https://ds18.com/products/5-channel-high-performance-high-to-low-conversion
    - I went with this to save a little money and so far it works as it should
    Amp
    https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Amplifiers/GM+Digital+Series/GM-D9705
    - good reviews, good price, power I wanted
    Amp wiring kit and RCA's
    http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a.../complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit/
    - I used this kit 10+ years ago and like it
    Door speakers
    https://www.infinityspeakers.com/speakers/REFERENCE+6530CX.html
    - this is personal preference, listened in person and liked them
    Metra Speaker Harnesses
    Killmat
    Speaker mounts from Amazon
    Speaker gasket foam
    And foam rings

    I have so far run the amp power and install both the LOC and Amp, I made my own amp rack out of 1/2" MDF for these under the passenger seat, the front bolted to same spot the factory amp rack bolted.
    20200628_135459.jpg
    20200628_142117.jpg
    20200628_145632.jpg
    20200718_124039.jpg
    20200628_154121.jpg
    I used aluminum angle brackets that I curved for the feet to clear the vent.

    The wiring diagrams in this forum made this easy peasy. Once again Thank You!

    Having the extra power was very noticeable, although I took it easy on the stock speakers.

    Next I did the rear doors. I did not like the plastic mounts and they were probably better suited for 5.25 speakers not the 6.5 that I picked. So I made my own out of the same MDF from the amp rack. Traced the stock mount and cut it out. * I will add that I had to trim some of the mounts post pictures, the edge closest to the hinge side off door interfered with the door panel.
    20200712_103307.jpg
    20200712_110441.jpg
    20200712_130824.jpg
    I also used the Killmat on the outer panel and inner panel of the door (my first time using this stuff and I'm sure it could be done better) I used the tap and cover method, if it sounded hollow I covered it. Here's my rookie sound deadening job with the new speakers in the back.
    20200711_135434.jpg
    This is the right side with the plastic mount I scrapped.
    20200718_102626.jpg
    Left door with my mount.
    20200718_102517.jpg
    You can see in this one where I trimmed the right side of the mount to fit door panel correctly.
    To mount the thicker mounts I used #12 x 1" pan head Phillips sheet metal screws.

    No pictures of tweeter mount in door panel but it popped right in and I used two zip ties to secure it.

    That's where I'm at now. Waiting on the OEM tweeter sail panels I ordered to do the front. I'm glad I started in the back so that my sound deadening skills will be somewhat better on the front doors.

    Will be ordering a box from James at Tech12Volts. Still undecided on subs? Any recommendations would be welcome.

    Also, when putting the small panel on my back left door, the one up high above main panel, two of the little white clips fell into the door... ‍♂️ Anyone know where I can get some of these?

    I'll update as I get more done.

    Cheers!
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
  2. Jul 18, 2020 at 2:31 PM
    #2
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 What's a Dickfir?

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    Looks like you are off to a great start! Talk with james and see what he thinks will pair nicely with your speakers and your budget.
    i think these are the correct ones for the doors. I keep meaning to order some of these.
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTTH4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
     
    therussypooh [OP] likes this.
  3. Aug 2, 2020 at 9:02 AM
    #3
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Got the front doors all finished up.

    The two clips I lost on the back high door panel look like the one on the left. Luckily the new tweeter sail panels came with new clips so I salvaged the two from the old factory sails. Truck has all clips again!
    20200726_101442.jpg

    This is the panel they went to:
    20200718_180318.jpg

    Ordered a ported box through James, he recommended two Herts CS250 s4 for my power level. Hopefully it'll arrive in a couple of weeks so I can finish the install and then begin tweeking the amp settings.

    I'm sure I'll have some questions about that, and you guys will likely have the answers.

    Thanks again for the insight fellas, made this project fairly easy!
     
    619Tundra likes this.
  4. Aug 3, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    #4
    purplenova

    purplenova Not a new member

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    Pillar Tape, Bullet Liner, 20% Tint, Tyger Star Armor Kenwood amp & AudioControl LC7i Tech12volts JL Tweeters
    nice work man...
     
    therussypooh [OP] likes this.
  5. Aug 17, 2020 at 7:30 PM
    #5
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Got my box and subs from James. Waiting for the weekend to install when I have the time to apply sound deadening and hook it all up.
    20200817_185144.jpg
    Should I drill pilot holes for subs? Use any kind of sealant around them, or does it matter since it's a ported box?
    Thanks in advance!
     
  6. Aug 17, 2020 at 8:27 PM
    #6
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 What's a Dickfir?

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    A pilot hole isn't gonna hurt...go for it. Don't let the screws spin in the soft mdf wood. No need for any sealant.
    Do you know how you are going to wire them up?
    Edit: They are single voice coil subs, so it'll be easy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2020
  7. Aug 18, 2020 at 4:00 AM
    #7
    jwatt

    jwatt I heart men

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    I take it this is a must because it allows you to use the factory wiring harness. Correct?
     
  8. Aug 18, 2020 at 7:02 AM
    #8
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Plan is to wire one terminal to the other and then to the amp. Need to find my voltmeter to check that it is presenting a 2 ohm load to the amp.
    Thanks for the reply. I'm itching to hear it, I may just throw it in the back seat tonight just to get a taste!
     
  9. Aug 18, 2020 at 7:03 AM
    #9
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Yes. You don't have to cut any wires if you order those. My colors were not the same as some diagrams posted but the position in the plug is.
     
  10. Aug 21, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #10
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Hey @Danimal86 , I wired them in parallel but am getting a reading of 3ohms? Any suggestions?
    Also with setting up the amp, subs recommend 70 hz, I assume this means I set the LPF at that and then set the speaker channels on HPF also at 70 hz so I don't have a void in frequency? Thanks for your replies thus far!
     
  11. Aug 21, 2020 at 7:38 AM
    #11
    JackwagonJim

    JackwagonJim New Member

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    Purlear, NC
    Double check your wiring. To figure it out with a multimeter you take your number (3 in this case) and divide by .75 which is 4 (ohm). Its a dc to ac conversion.

    Edited for added clarity.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2020
  12. Aug 21, 2020 at 9:21 AM
    #12
    Danimal86

    Danimal86 What's a Dickfir?

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    I couldn't tell by the pictures, but i'm assuming they are 4ohm subs?
    They should be wired like this to give you a 2ohm load:
    [​IMG]

    Yes to the HPF/LPF, i think i have mine set at 80hz, but just play with it and find the sweet spot.
     
  13. Aug 23, 2020 at 11:00 AM
    #13
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Turns out my cheapo multimeter was just wrong. I wired exactly as above and borrowed a nice meter and it's running at 2 ohms.

    Finally got the back pulled apart and layed Killmat everywhere. (rough time of year to do so in Central Texas but I started early)
    20200823_112024.jpg
    Sub box from James slid right in and I had no issues getting seats back in and bolted down.
    20200823_120132.jpg
    Sounds amazing to me. Been a multi month project. Big thanks to this forum for doing most of the homework for me. Awesome work here fellas!
     
  14. Aug 31, 2020 at 7:02 AM
    #14
    blueshound

    blueshound New Member

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    You picked the hottest week, I'm in Central Texas too. I'm waiting for the fall before I tackle this. How hard was it to get the Styrofoam out?
     
  15. Aug 31, 2020 at 9:47 PM
    #15
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Very easy. Once the carpets pulled back they just pop right out, and went back in just as easy.

    I may wait for cooler weather to do the front floorboards...
     
  16. Sep 7, 2020 at 10:14 AM
    #16
    Pacifico

    Pacifico New Member

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    Brushed aluminum wrap, ProComp 6” lift, Flow Master Exhaust, Fuel Battle Axe 20x10 on 35x12.5 MT tires.
    Looks good and big ups for doing it yourself. I recently upgraded my sound system. I had a shop install mine as I’m too old for the labor part but not to enjoy it.
     
    therussypooh [OP] likes this.
  17. Oct 10, 2020 at 8:13 PM
    #17
    TonyNCo

    TonyNCo New Member

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    Audio, 11 channels Kenwood HU, Mini DSP Digital Sound Processor 2 Alpine 4 Channel Amps, 3 Alpine Sub Amps approx 4K watts 3 way Focal in dash, front doors. 6 1/2" in door swapped for 8" 10" Focal Sub, front passenger floor, custom sealed box 2 way Focal rear doors 2 JL Audio 12W6 Subs, behind backseat Aux lights, all but ditch on modified bumper light bar (3 Hella Rally 4000) Spot, Fog, and Euro beam. Euro beam has yellow bulb. 4 White Spot beam LED Ditch 4 Yellow Spot beam LED 42" Curved, Yellow/Fog LED light bar 50" Curved, White LED light bar 295/70/18 Falken Wildpeak, Revolver Bed Cover

    Hello, I am in process of similar upgrade. Does anyone know the p/n for those two clips above? I lost the two wing looking ones. And the original ones are not holding the door panel in place.
     
  18. Oct 11, 2020 at 1:47 PM
    #18
    PWMDMD

    PWMDMD New Member

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  19. Nov 14, 2020 at 5:59 PM
    #19
    texastundra77

    texastundra77 New Member

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    curious as to where you found a sub box from. and what made you go with the hertz subs?
     
    therussypooh [OP] likes this.
  20. Nov 14, 2020 at 6:25 PM
    #20
    therussypooh

    therussypooh [OP] New Member

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    Got the box from James at Tech12volt, he also recommended the subs based on my power level. I love it, it pounds!
     
    Rica25 likes this.
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