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2017 Tundra Having Major Dash Issues

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by BeachyTundra, Dec 2, 2019.

  1. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:04 PM
    #1
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, driving home Friday night I had some major issues with my dash. There's a video below, but here are some cliff-notes of what happened, etc. I've got an appointment at Toyota tomorrow so hopefully they can sort this out.

    https://youtu.be/SHQOD1tRdwo

    - ABS & Trac light came on after roughly 2 hours of driving
    - Can pull over and restart truck, lights go away, then return after 20-30 mins
    - Video shows what happened after driving with the trac and abs lights on for some distance
    - Speedometer bouncing, 4hi & 4low flash, trac & abs lights, parking brake light, tach bouncing, trailer brake warning (not in video), odometer quit registering miles
    - While dash freaking out, delay of instrument cluster by 3-5 seconds (IE; turn on brights, instrument panel not showing Bright indicator for 3-5 seconds after)
    - Cruise control set at 75 and was never automatically kicked off by these issues. Truck still ran perfectly and shifted and held speed normally

    Has ANYBODY dealt with any sort of madness like this before than can hopefully provide some insight prior to my trip to the dealership tomorrow?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019
  2. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:12 PM
    #2
    sf319

    sf319 On to the next chapter of Tundra ownership....

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    The only time I have had anything like that happen was in my 09 Camry and it ended up being a computer. Fortunately it was still just under warranty, so didn't have to pay anything for it. Mine didn't have the jumping speedo though. If it hadn't been warranty, the total for parts was ~$800, and labor was another ~$300, so ~$1100.
     
    BeachyTundra [OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:16 PM
    #3
    CO_Native

    CO_Native New Member

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    Bad ground or weak battery has been known to cause the Christmas tree effect, that's where I'd start.
     
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  4. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:17 PM
    #4
    pickeledpigsfeet

    pickeledpigsfeet New Member

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    Do you have a Hypertech calibrator plugged in?
     
  5. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:17 PM
    #5
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Did they seem to diagnose it pretty easily and fix it right away, or did you have to fight with them on it? As you can see, I'm at 31,xxx and fast approaching my 36k warranty...
     
  6. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:20 PM
    #6
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Well, it was cold out on both drives, but my voltage seemed to hold steady on the dash at 14v, but I also contemplated a ground issue. Didn't want to test this theory in the middle of nowhere or erase the codes however.

    No calibrator of any kind. I've got a remote start from tech12v, which has been working flawlessly since install almost 2 years ago. I've also got a Dasaita HU installed, but it worked correctly the whole trip, no sound cutting in and out or anything weird.

    I've edited the post above, but when it was freaking out, I could turn my brights on but the instrument cluster wouldn't indicate them being on for 3-5 seconds afterwards
     
  7. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:20 PM
    #7
    sf319

    sf319 On to the next chapter of Tundra ownership....

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    I think I read somewhere that the factory new batteries are only lasting 2 years. TundraDude34 just had to replace his battery.
     
  8. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:22 PM
    #8
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Crossing my fingers it's that simple. I haven't noticed any issues cranking or voltage drops, but, that's not to say that something may not be internally wrong and creating issues.
     
  9. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:22 PM
    #9
    sf319

    sf319 On to the next chapter of Tundra ownership....

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    Yeah, I brought it in to the dealership and they had it diagnosed in a couple hours. The problem was it was a computer they were out of stock on so had to wait for Japan to send a new one. Took a couple days to get it replaced.
     
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  10. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:26 PM
    #10
    CO_Native

    CO_Native New Member

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    I think that's output from your alternator that you're seeing while the motor is running. A fresh battery will have 12.6v-12.9v at rest (motor off), which you can check with any DMM. If it shows lower than 12.6, I'd have it load-tested. Any auto-parts store can do this for free for you. It's free troubleshooting and while you're there at the battery, you can clean the connections & make sure the posts are on tight. After that, you're chasing gremlins...good luck.
     
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  11. Dec 2, 2019 at 1:33 PM
    #11
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Why'd you have to bring gremlins into the conversation? I'm trying to remain in good spirits here!
     
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  12. Dec 2, 2019 at 2:51 PM
    #12
    TomyTun

    TomyTun New Member

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    I had something similar happen on a 2007 Camry. It ended up being an ECU computer or something like that and it was shot. The part and labor was going to be around $3500. Ended up just trading the car in. It was definitely sporadic. Thankfully it was behaving the day the dealership took ownership.
     
  13. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:03 PM
    #13
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    I assume you were outside of warranty when that happened?
     
  14. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:06 PM
    #14
    TomyTun

    TomyTun New Member

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    Yes, by a long shot. They were able to perform a $120 test to “reset” the ECU and it was fine for about the first 10 minutes of my drive home and then I lost my speedometer. Does your’s constantly dance or does it sometimes rest at 0 MPH and 0 RPM?
     
  15. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #15
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Well that's the thing. I have driven around town the last couple days with zero lights and zero issues. When it was doing the dancing, it was dancing and eventually hit the 0 on the speedo, but kept dancing, the fluctuation of the tach was less severe, going from 2100rpm down to 1800 or so and less often. This of course freaked me out, so I pulled over, restarted the truck, then proceeded to drive for another 20-30 minutes before any lights came back on, which was the ABS and TRAC lights.
     
  16. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:13 PM
    #16
    TomyTun

    TomyTun New Member

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    Hmmmmm. It could honestly be a variety of things. I didn’t mean to freak you out. What happened to my car could be worst case scenario for you. Luckily you’re under warranty. I’d definitely get it in ASAP and start your paper trail in case it returns outside of warranty.
     
  17. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:20 PM
    #17
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Haha no worries, didn't freak me out. I figured it was out of warranty, and yes, that's exactly what I plan to start doing. If the dealership looks at me video and then tries to tell me "nothing wrong here", I plan to file a report with corporate Toyota and do my damndest to get something in writing stating that my warranty will be extended, in regards to the items i've been having issues with.
     
  18. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:27 PM
    #18
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler New Member

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    Were there any road conditions (wet, slush, mud, etc.) that could have messed with the wheel speed sensors working properly? Given that your cruise was set at 75, I'm guessing the roads were clear?
     
  19. Dec 2, 2019 at 3:33 PM
    #19
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    That was one of my first thoughts as well; I left on the initial trip down and everything was dry, cold, but dry. I got just ABS and TRAC in these conditions, pulled over and restarted, truck was error-free for 1.5hrs+. On the same leg of the initial trip(through Oregon), there was pretty heavy rain in a few spots, with wet roads for quite a ways, but warmer temps. I didn't have any issues through this section, so that makes me think there's less chance of it being a 'outside influence' issue, like mud or other road grime. The drive home was also cold and dry, and that's when it started getting real crazy with the speedo and such.
     
  20. Dec 3, 2019 at 9:55 AM
    #20
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    Well, update for anybody interested.

    Truck was at the dealership for all of 30 minutes, and they said that the only code that came up with the Steering head angle sensor. They said that they re-zero'd it and reset it, and hopefully that would fix it.

    They also asked about my remote start and aftermarket HU, and said that if this doesn't fix the issue, then the vehicle will have to be returned to stock in order for them to continue diagnosing any electrical issue. So that's nifty.
     
  21. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:39 PM
    #21
    AdventureAddict

    AdventureAddict New Member

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    Oh how they love to ask about aftermarket items...
     
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  22. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:49 PM
    #22
    7.62Tundra

    7.62Tundra Chromeaphilliac

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    WTF is a steering angle head sensor?:eek2:
     
  23. Dec 3, 2019 at 2:54 PM
    #23
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    ....yeah, wtf is a plug and play HU going to do to the modules? And a remote start? Oh, you mean just because YOU didn't install it, my warranty is supposed to be now void? :mad:

    Great question, I googled it, and it is a thing, but would that cause my speedometer and other stuff to freak out? I would think no, but I guess I'll find out in a couple weeks with another 7 hour road trip
     
  24. Dec 3, 2019 at 8:03 PM
    #24
    sf319

    sf319 On to the next chapter of Tundra ownership....

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    I wonder if the sensor has something to do with the safety features that are now standard on our trucks.
     
  25. Dec 3, 2019 at 9:06 PM
    #25
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    That's possible, but I'm a 2017 SR5, so I've got basically no safety features, which after this, I'm thankful for
     
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  26. Dec 4, 2019 at 4:46 AM
    #26
    7.62Tundra

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    I think it has something to do with rollover
     
  27. Dec 4, 2019 at 10:41 AM
    #27
    BeachyTundra

    BeachyTundra [OP] New Member

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    I believe it also ties into traction control and such. IE; if your steering wheel is inside the truck and registering at 0* rotation, but your steering angle begins changing (back end sliding out due to ice or something), I assume it would trigger your traction control and ABS to try and correct the issue.
     

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