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2017 Tundra Audio Project

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Speedkills119, Dec 5, 2018.

  1. Dec 5, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #1
    Speedkills119

    Speedkills119 [OP] New Member

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    Procomp 4" lift Wheels/Tires K&N Cold Air Bakflip Cover HID Head and fog lights Infinity speakers RF amp and sub
    I started by putting the Infinity reference speakers in on the stock amp but since they were 4 ohm it's not loud enough. I took out the stock 8" sub and put in a Rockford 12" and Rockford R250X; it sounds OK but but doesn't really hit so I'm taking it up a level. I'm bypassing the stock amp and adding a signal processor before the 3 JL amps. I went with class A amps for the component speaker because they sound a lot better but they use a lot of power and creates a lot of heat (notice the cooling fins). The 1000 watt amp will power the 800W 10's in the JL Stealth box. I still have to run the 1/0 power wire, install the distribution blocks, upgrade the chassis ground to 1/0, replace the battery terminals, and splice in the signal wires.
     
    TRDFerguson and deedubb like this.
  2. Dec 5, 2018 at 10:20 AM
    #2
    Cfincke

    Cfincke Mall Crawler but capable

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    Looking good!
    did you replace the head unit?
    just wondering where the signal is coming from that feeds into the TwK88.
     
  3. Dec 5, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #3
    Speedkills119

    Speedkills119 [OP] New Member

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    Procomp 4" lift Wheels/Tires K&N Cold Air Bakflip Cover HID Head and fog lights Infinity speakers RF amp and sub

    No, I'm keeping the stock head unit; I'm just going to splice into the stock amp input. Not really sure why but I'm trying to keep the stock dash look and the functionality of the head unit for all of the non-audio stuff.
     
  4. Dec 5, 2018 at 10:55 AM
    #4
    Cfincke

    Cfincke Mall Crawler but capable

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    since you have a 1794, I assume you have the JBL Entune radio, as I do in my 1794. It is my understanding that in the JBL system that the signal from the head unit to the factory amp is encrypted and the factory amp decodes the signal. You will run into issues if you are just splicing into the cables before the factory amp.
    I originally had a JL Fix86 after the factory amp to clean up and level the factory amp output signal to my JL amps. I have since changed to the Rockford DSR1 with a iDatalink Maestro cable. The DSR1 can de-crypt the the headunit signal and allow removal of the factory amp all together.

    @TundraTex has researched the tundra stereos and wire diagrams, he can correct me if I am wrong
     
  5. Dec 5, 2018 at 10:58 AM
    #5
    fisherman951

    fisherman951 New Member

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    Why 2-300/4 amps?
     
  6. Dec 5, 2018 at 11:25 AM
    #6
    Speedkills119

    Speedkills119 [OP] New Member

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    Procomp 4" lift Wheels/Tires K&N Cold Air Bakflip Cover HID Head and fog lights Infinity speakers RF amp and sub
    There's 8 channels and and the 300/4's will be handling 7 of them.
     
  7. Dec 5, 2018 at 11:45 AM
    #7
    Speedkills119

    Speedkills119 [OP] New Member

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    Procomp 4" lift Wheels/Tires K&N Cold Air Bakflip Cover HID Head and fog lights Infinity speakers RF amp and sub

    I think you're correct, actually I know your correct, because the factory head unit sends data for volume control to the amp. I think I can use can use the amp output to the Twk88 since it can handle high level output. Why did you chose to switch from the Fix86 to the DSR1? I almost went that route.
     
  8. Dec 5, 2018 at 12:29 PM
    #8
    Cfincke

    Cfincke Mall Crawler but capable

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    2002 Tundra SR5 with Fabtech adjustable coil-overs to level the truck
    My factory amp added a LOT of noise to the signal. With the fix volume knob at 50%, i could not turn the stereo up past 40 without getting a noticable hiss. I even set the amp gains much lower than the clipping light on the JL RD amp.
    Once i switched to the dsr1, all the hiss went away and i could bring the amp gains up to just below the clipping light. I can now turn the volume up as much as i want
     
  9. Dec 6, 2018 at 2:04 PM
    #9
    Shelbie67

    Shelbie67 New Member

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    RADFLO 2.5 suspension, apex rock sliders, BFG KO2, exhaust delete, Full Active Stereo
    I used the ampro 4, into my audition Bit One, super clean signal and no noise!

    I’m about to get a new head unit and ditch the stock jbl one/amp.
     
  10. Dec 10, 2018 at 5:51 AM
    #10
    Speedkills119

    Speedkills119 [OP] New Member

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    Procomp 4" lift Wheels/Tires K&N Cold Air Bakflip Cover HID Head and fog lights Infinity speakers RF amp and sub
    I finished the install this weekend.

    Really the only issue I had was sorting out the harness to the factory amp. The wiring diagrams I found didn't match my truck so I had to start from scratch using a spare speaker and the balance/fade on the head unit to label all the inputs.

    My signal path is:

    Head unit -> Stock amp -> JL Audio Fix 86 -> JL Audio Twk 88 -> amps

    There's absolutely no white noise at zero volume and the sound is crisp and clear with the class A amps. I don't have my stealth box yet so I'm using my 12" Rockford Wedge Box for now. The sound through that one 12" is awesome so I can't imagine what it's going to sound like with two 10's. This system definitely needs the 3f capacitor; when it's turned up and the bass hits it's pulling power from the cap with the truck at idle. I kinda figured it would since the class A amps draw more power than a class D. The amount of adjustment with this arrangement is daunting since the Fix and the Twk can both be adjusted with a laptop and each channel can have it's own EQ. I know there are easier ways to put in a system but I don't mind the extra work with a soldering iron and I couldn't be happier with the results.
     
    TRDFerguson likes this.

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