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2016 Tundra Strange Knock in Engine Compartment After Startup

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by plumber802, Nov 17, 2019.

  1. Nov 17, 2019 at 2:04 PM
    #1
    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afkA1qmNt9w

    I'm posting this for my son who owns a 2016 SR5 5.7 CrewMax with 60,000 miles. The knocking sound happens when the engine is first started on a cold start. He was over at my house today and could not reproduce the sound, in fact the engine sounded really smooth. Not sure from the video sound quality if it's internal to the engine or maybe ac compressor. Could a lifter be intermittently collapsing? Any ideas before it goes to the dealer?
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2019
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  2. Nov 18, 2019 at 2:20 AM
    #2
    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    I guess this noise is unheard of in a Tundra... I will come back an update this thread with any new info.
     
  3. Nov 18, 2019 at 2:31 AM
    #3
    Adam

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    Holy crap. That sounds bad.
     
  4. Nov 18, 2019 at 3:41 AM
    #4
    tttrdpro

    tttrdpro Former Naval Person

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    My 2019 Pro has the same noise on cold start. I have no idea what it is. It also sounds very smooth after it warms up. I’m interested in what you find.
     
  5. Nov 18, 2019 at 4:01 AM
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    BakNBlk2014

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    Reminds me off the lifter noise you get off an older BMW.
     
  6. Nov 18, 2019 at 4:07 AM
    #6
    BakNBlk2014

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    Google searchScreenshot_2019-11-18-14-06-23.jpg
     
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  7. Nov 18, 2019 at 4:20 AM
    #7
    ryanw4x4

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  8. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:00 AM
    #8
    SaltH20

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    This sound is very similar to the sound the 2011-2012 5.0 V8 F150's made. You can do a search and find plenty of videos of the engines making a similar noise. My engine did the same thing but not on cold start up. I would drive it about a mile or so and then stop. It would tick like the noise you have, even at the :16 sec spot on your video. But after a while it would stop ticking and I never had any issues or oil loss after 65K miles (then I traded it in on my 2019 Tundra). The general consensus from the Ford forums was a warped cylinder and quite a few people got new engines. I would certainly take it to a dealer to get it checked. Hopefully it is just a lifter (etc). Also, keeping fresh oil in the engine seemed to also help my tick issues. I hope this helps.
     
  9. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:16 AM
    #9
    JohnLakeman

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    Sounds like excessive valve lash caused by sluggish lifter(s). Note that a multivis motor oil has it's lowest viscosity when it's cold. Buy an automotive stethoscope and isolate the exact location of the sound. Maybe try different brand of oil or higher viscosity like 5W20.

    https://www.amazon.com/HARDK-Automotive-Mechanic-Stethoscope-Diagnostic/dp/B07JZ7QGR1/ref=sr_1_5?crid=28ADGBQVZ3QC3&keywords=automotive+stethoscope&qid=1574082741&sprefix=automotive+steth%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-5
     
  10. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:36 AM
    #10
    plumber802

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    Thanks for the replies so far. I’m not really worried since it does sound normal any other time. The problem is that it is so intermittent that bringing it to the dealer is not a guarantee of an immediate diagnosis.
     
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  11. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:38 AM
    #11
    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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  12. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:45 AM
    #12
    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    Not sure if it's reassuring that other's are having this issue as well.
     
  13. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:46 AM
    #13
    Trikerider

    Trikerider New Member

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    I'll get similar sound on my 2015 during cold startup and low oil pressure situations, from what I read on other posts it sounds like it might be timing chain slap as the tensioner uses oil pressure. Mine is usually on the driver side only. I have noticed that if I keep my oil level at the upper mark on dipstick it helps, don't know why as never let it get below half way on the dipstick. I get a few weird sounds from engine when its cold out, I have the kit to replace the idler pulley, tensioner and belt which I think is my other noise.
     
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  14. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:51 AM
    #14
    Warreng

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    My 2013 does the same from time to time. Otherwise smooth as butter. Dont think i care. I had a chevy 4.7 l that would knock once and a while (similar cold start) Thing ran like a dream.
     
  15. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #15
    Badger Co-Op

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  16. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:59 AM
    #16
    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    I will ask him. Thanks
     
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  17. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:07 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    Sorry guys...I'm trying to figure out how 1/2 quart low on the dipstick could make any difference in top end, or even bottom end, lubrication or noise. The oil pump will maintain maximum oil pressure right up until the oil level is so low the pump breaks suction. How can 1/2 quart low on the dipstick make any difference in bearing, timing chain, or lifter lubrication? On the bottom end, extreme low oil level could reduce cylinder wall and piston skirt spash lubrication/cushioning, but it would have to be several quarts low for that to happen imo. :notsure:
     
  18. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:10 AM
    #18
    Trikerider

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    That's why I said I 'don't know why' it seamed to help. Getting away from the Mobil 1 AFE and going to Mobil Extended Performance seamed to help too.
     
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  19. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:17 AM
    #19
    tttrdpro

    tttrdpro Former Naval Person

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    I remember now I had a 2002 4.7 Tundra that made the same noise when it was cold, and was silky smooth at all other times. It did this when new. When i mentioned it to the dealer they said most of the 4.7’s made the same noise when cold and mumbled something about the exhaust manifold. I chose not to worry about it and drove the shit out of it for 167,000 miles and never had any issues with the engine at all. When I traded it 8 years ago, it still made the same noise cold and was quiet and smooth at all other times. Never had to add any oil to that engine, literally 0 issues aside from the noise itself. Don’t know why I didn’t remember this before. Guess I’m getting old.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
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  20. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:20 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    I definitely agree with changing from the Mobil 1 AFE. Mobil 1 AFE is like the entry level Mobil 1 full synthetic. The 0W20 viscosity is what permits them to describe it as "Advanced Fuel Economy". Think of Mobil 1 Extended Performance as AFE with an anti-wear additive package. That allows them to advertise EP as having a longer change interval. I don't care about running my oil longer than 10K, but the increased anti-wear additives is worth the extra money to me regardless of change interval. :thumbsup:
     
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  21. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:39 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    I'm not being argumentative. I'm just trying to use reason and logic to understand how this could happen in a modern automotive engine as I understand them. It's completely possible there is some obscure machinery principle here that's unknown to me.

    If my 4.6L was ever a 1/2 quart low, it would have been an oil change fill error because of the ambiguity of specified crankcase capacity. I've never noticed any unusual noise on startup, but I'm sure that's because it has very low mileage. I did notice the "Toyota tick" valve noise on my old 22RE: It was absolutely dead silent at 13K (ran so quiet you barely knew); at 178K, even with perfect valve adjustment, it clattered like a John Deere tractor. :notsure:
     
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  22. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:51 AM
    #22
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Piston slap might be something to look into as well.
     
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  23. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:51 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    I can't imagine that the owner getting the oil level correct within 1/2 quart is that important if the engineers that designed the dipstick, and the ones telling the owner manual publishers the engine's oil capacity, can't agree within one full quart.
     
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  24. Nov 18, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #24
    RLHULK

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    I am going with exhaust leak, or timing chain tensioner.

    Not sure about piston slap since as far as I know the 5.7 is not prone to that.
    Doubt it is lifter related as it sounded to me that the engine was running smooth
     
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  25. Nov 18, 2019 at 9:50 AM
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    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    Great discussion guys. Thanks for all the insights.
     
  26. Nov 18, 2019 at 9:54 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    On my 22RE, piston slap was like a just audible, mid-frequency, hollow "donking" noise. It started after a few tens of thousands were on the clock, and only occurred on cold, first start like the OP's noise. It went away within a few minutes as the engine warmed up. The OP's video noise sounds more like a solid, high-frequency "rapping" (valve noise) to me.

    I believe (speculate) that piston slap is caused by a combination of piston design (short piston skirt), and increased bore clearance due to cold coolant temp and normal wear. When the piston changes direction at the bottom of the stroke, the connecting rod goes from pulling the piston down the bore, to slamming it against the opposite side of the bore, and pushing it up. The slam to the other side of the cylinder bore is what causes the "donk" or "slap" imo. If Toyota designs all their pistons the same, then cold-start piston slap in other Toyota engine designs is possible. The Toyota tech I described the sound to identified it pretty quickly. :D
     
  27. Nov 18, 2019 at 10:01 AM
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    plumber802

    plumber802 [OP] New Member

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    So if "piston slap" is the cause of the noise can it damage the engine over time? Also, it's odd that more Toyota owners are not experiencing this.
     
  28. Nov 18, 2019 at 10:02 AM
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    dittothat

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    Get in on the remote start group buy front tech12volts. That way you can start it from inside your house and don’t have to listen to the clacking. Outta ear outta mind
     
  29. Nov 18, 2019 at 10:11 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    No, piston slap is a normal consequence of design and wear, and there's nothing you can do to change it. Also, I wouldn't say piston slap is a common problem in Toyota engines.

    Toyota designs short pistons with short skirts so more of the energy expended in combustion is going into turning the crankshaft, rather than pushing piston mass up and down the cylinder bore. My Toyota technician didn't seem surprised or concerned, and it did go away within a few minutes.

    When @Wynnded suggested it I was in agreement that it was a possibility, but the noise didn't sound like mine. As @RLHOK said, I have read nothing about piston slap in UR engines, but given that OEMs seem to stick with the same design principles, I would not be surprised if I had.
     
  30. Nov 18, 2019 at 10:35 AM
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    KevinK

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