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2014 transmission maintenance question

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2014+)' started by Sumo91, Nov 28, 2019.

  1. Dec 2, 2019 at 2:18 PM
    #31
    Ajkkane

    Ajkkane Old fart.

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    Exhaust Dirty Deeds 8”SS, some led lights, Osram headlights, Pro Stop brakes, Pop Lock, AFE dry air filter with charcoal delete.
    I work for two toyota parts departments. I never sold one trans filter for any toyota, even to the mechanics. I worked in parts from 1997 to 2005. The mechanics washed them, most wanted the money of a power flush. It was easier and it didn’t involve dropping the trans pan. My sales were 1.3 million plus per year, thats a lot of parts and again not one trans filter.

     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019
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  2. Dec 2, 2019 at 4:50 PM
    #32
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    Hmm this is very interesting! I have already ordered the filter, filter o ring, and pan gasket, so I've kind of obligated myself to replace it and I would have lots of peace of mind doing it. The truck has 174k on it, and has had the trans serviced before, but the filter has never been changed. So when I replace it, I'll let the old filter sit for awhile, then cut it open, and run a magnet across the element to see how much material it has actually filtered in 174k miles. And if it's worthwhile to change in the future. I'll do my best to document this entire process as good as I possibly can to help someone in the future when they consider changing their trans fluid/filter.
     
  3. Dec 2, 2019 at 4:59 PM
    #33
    Ajkkane

    Ajkkane Old fart.

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    I have to say doing a drain and fill and cleaning the pan etc is necessary . And replacing the O-ring is necessary. I don’t believe the trans filter is all that much money but it was in my day, a washable screen. Things may have changed from 2005.
     
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  4. Dec 2, 2019 at 5:17 PM
    #34
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    I believe I paid a little over $100 for the filter, gasket, and o ring, and $36/gal x 3 for the trans fluid I chose. I ordered from Amazon to get it to my house faster, but you can get the parts a little cheaper elsewhere, I just didnt want to wait forever to receive them.
     
  5. Dec 2, 2019 at 5:22 PM
    #35
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    I agree with @Ajkkane we don't do drop pan services, only power flushes.
    We dont stock pan gaskets and filters either.
    But i would be very interested in seeing the inside of that filter
     
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  6. Dec 2, 2019 at 6:11 PM
    #36
    B737

    B737 Throbbing Member

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    when they do a “power flush” at the dealership, what exactly is it, what gets done?
     
  7. Dec 2, 2019 at 6:37 PM
    #37
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    Its a machine that gets connected on the cooler line and it runs a cleaner for 15 minutes then it pumps in 12 quarts of synthetic atf while it pushes out the old crap, then it adds a conditioner.
     
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  8. Dec 2, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #38
    Green Thunder

    Green Thunder Just here for the beer

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    Threads like this make forums valuable. Sharing links, info and suggestions. Thanks everyone.
     
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  9. Dec 3, 2019 at 4:58 PM
    #39
    Johnsonman

    Johnsonman New Member

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    As many others said the OEM "filter" is more like a window screen in ability to 'filter' - its really only for large clumps which by then don't really matter.

    I recommend everyone add one of these and replace it when you change fluids again: https://www.amazon.com/Magnefine-Ma...d=1575420843&sprefix=magnefine,aps,196&sr=8-5

    Luck and enjoy your Toyotas.
     
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  10. Dec 3, 2019 at 5:52 PM
    #40
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    @Sumo91 when you open your filter up please post a picture to show us that it is filter material, not a screen.
    From the ones i have seen. The inside material is a yellow fiber padded filter material.
     
  11. Dec 3, 2019 at 6:02 PM
    #41
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    I'll be sure to do that. I may tackle it this weekend, depends on if my parts get here in time. I need to change my water pump as well and I may do that first. I heard it takes several hours to do, so I'm not sure if I'll tackle both of those in one day because I dont wanna get stuck working on my truck at night if a bolt breaks, something unexpected happens, etc.
     
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  12. Dec 3, 2019 at 6:12 PM
    #42
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    Water pump is easy. I have done plenty so i am fast, less than a hour but on average a few hours is all it takes most to do it.
    If you need pointers pm me and i can walk you through a couple of things to make it easier for you
     
  13. Dec 3, 2019 at 6:14 PM
    #43
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    I'll probably do that. I've changed many water pumps before, but this is the first time I'll be working on a 5.7 so any help is much appreciated. Do you know off hand the torque specs of the water pump bolts?
     
  14. Dec 3, 2019 at 6:25 PM
    #44
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    S&B intake, Corsa exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Spec-D tail lights.
    I do not but i can look up tomorrow at work for you. There is 2 14mm bolts and the rest are 12mm.
     
  15. Dec 4, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #45
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    S&B intake, Corsa exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Spec-D tail lights.
    Here ya go
    20191204_095142.jpg
     
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  16. Dec 4, 2019 at 10:31 AM
    #46
    triharder

    triharder New Member

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    I accomplished the wrong installation on the belt routing after my water pump replacement.
    I also torqued the tensioner left hand threaded bolt till it broke (by tightening instead of loosing).

    So keep that in mind. Seems like issues normal people don't have, but makes sense to take note of belt routing before disassembly.

    Also, i broke all but 3 bolts in my transmission pan when i replaced the filter at 90k. (new to me truck with unknown transmission duty life cycle).
    If i did this job again and i had any rust on the M6 bolts, i'd cut the theaded exposed area off the top of each bolt with a dremel, then i'd make sure i had a good dremel to cut any broken bolts flush, punch (to center the drill) and lots of patience. I threaded mine without a helicoil needed. But transmission fluid dripping your head for almost 8 hours sucks.

    Good luck guys.
     
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  17. Dec 4, 2019 at 10:38 AM
    #47
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    Yikes! I had to drill, tap, and heli coil most of the pan bolts in my old 7.3 with an E4OD transmission because they were all stripped out, and I hate leaks on my vehicles. I think I'm gonna go outside in a little bit and start soaking the bolts with kroil to try and make this as easy as possible. I also saw some belt diagrams online, I'm considering printing out the diagram and laminating it, and keeping it in the glovebox
     
  18. Dec 4, 2019 at 11:14 AM
    #48
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    Ok, I crawled under the truck to soak the bolts in Kroil, they're not rusted, but the truck has been in some muddy roads at the previous owners hunting camp. I also have Mouse milk and Schaeffer penetro90 I'm gonna hit the bolts with in the next few days. They're the best penetrating oils I've found so far, so I'm gonna use all 3 and hope for the best. And boy, do those bolts look wimpy! I'm gonna have to upgrade them to a higher grade. If anything knows the length and pitch of the bolts I'll go pick some up before I get started. 20191204_125445.jpg 20191204_130832.jpg
     
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  19. Dec 4, 2019 at 11:16 AM
    #49
    Neutron

    Neutron New Member

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    Leave belt on till after clutch fan and shroud removed. And when installing put belt on before fan. Just put 2 nuts on finger tight to hold pulley. Then after remove the nuts, then slide in fan and shroud.
     
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  20. Dec 6, 2019 at 7:40 AM
    #50
    triharder

    triharder New Member

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  21. Dec 6, 2019 at 4:04 PM
    #51
    shootis

    shootis New Member

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  22. Dec 7, 2019 at 9:06 PM
    #52
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    Got my water pump replaced today, it wasnt too bad of a job at all, but I did have a wrench slip and I nicked a hole in a fin in my radiator, its an extremely small nick but it is seeping fluid, I put a half a bottle of bars stop leak in it, the cheapest bottle they had, it's worked well for me in the past and never caused issues in my cooling system, although I've heard stories about it happening. I drove an hour and half home and I'm gonna check it again tomorrow with my inspection mirror to see if its still seeping, but my coolant level never dropped and my temps were good. I still would like to replace my radiator. I've heard denso makes the oem radiator so I'm leaning towards that one on Amazon for 125. I cant find the exact oem one for my truck, its pulling up a couple different models. Thank you @Neutron for the tips and torque specs!
     
  23. Dec 8, 2019 at 5:06 AM
    #53
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    My theory is stress corrosion cracking of the pan screws. It's caused by environmental contaminants like chlorides and others. I believe the pan screws are riddled with micro cracks before you even put a wrench on them. It requires too little torque to snap these off during pan removal, and it occurs more frequently where road salt is used. Chloride stress cracking is a specialized type of stress corrosion cracking.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stress_corrosion_cracking#:~:targetText=Stress corrosion cracking (SCC) is,stress, especially at elevated temperature.
     
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  24. Dec 8, 2019 at 10:14 AM
    #54
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    I actually see this alot in my line of work in oil refineries, in the vessels, columns, and welds, but it never occurred to me that it could also happen to bolts used in vehicles.
     
  25. Dec 8, 2019 at 11:58 AM
    #55
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    We're from the same background. I've dealt with pipeline sulfide stress cracking (lapse of corrosion control with CO2 and H2S), chloride stress cracking in stainless process piping (austenetic stainless steel very susceptible) and 4340 steel machine shaft.

    Any residual stresses from forming fasteners can be a cause with the right contaminants, plus any stresses in service (very low in this case). Your plan to go with Grade 8 (Metric Class 10.9) is intuitively correct, but might not be the best solution if you have a stress corrosion cracking problem (remains to be seen). If you can find this metric fastener in ferritic stainless steel (403, 17-4PH, 316L) you might have a winner. I haven't considered electrolysis between dissimilar metals, but my impression is it will be no worse than the original steel.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019 at 12:03 PM
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  26. Dec 8, 2019 at 12:38 PM
    #56
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] New Member

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    You're far more knowledgeable about this than I am, but I having fun learning! I just come from being a boilermaker working turnarounds. I don't think I'll have an issue with bolts having stress cracks, because the truck has never seen salt or snow, but maybe electrolysis could cause cracks as well? I don't know enough about the subject to be sure that's correct though. Thank you for your informative posts, they're alot of fun to read!
     
  27. Dec 8, 2019 at 1:14 PM
    #57
    JohnLakeman

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    No, not cracks, just corrosion. The more stable metal steals electrons from the less stable metal (or vice-versa, I can't remember)...it's called galvanic corrosion.

    I'm reminded from this article (link below) that stainless fasteners and aluminum DO NOT do well together, so forget my earlier ferritic stainless steel fastener suggestion. You can see from the table on the left side of this article that aluminum has little problem with iron/steel (near to each other in the chart), but stainless steel will eat the ELHOO aluminum. I should have remembered that from my Samsung washer fiasco...five years service on the aluminum tub support maximum due to bad design or evil planned replacement! I fooled them. :mad:

    https://www.fastenal.com/en/70/corrosion
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019 at 1:21 PM
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  28. Dec 9, 2019 at 9:06 AM
    #58
    Js18tundra

    Js18tundra New Member

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    Can anyone confirm 99-111 degrees for checking the temp? And on an obd2 reader is pan temp “trans temp 1”? On the 18’s
     
  29. Dec 9, 2019 at 9:20 AM
    #59
    JohnLakeman

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    Temp 99-111 deg F for ATF level checking is correct for 5.7L engine/transmission only. Sorry, can't help with your OBD2 reader, try purchaser instructions or manufacturer website for clarification of "trans temp 1".
     
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  30. Dec 9, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #60
    TTund16

    TTund16 New Member

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    If you can read the trans temps (pan & torque converter or TC), the one that typically reads higher is the TC. Sometimes if tc is locked they read the same but if going uphill for example you will see one (TC) higher than the other.

    with some devices like my scangauge, you can program the names (e.g. 1 & 2) and someone else can name them differently (2 & 1) like my co-worker did.
     
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