2013 Tundra won’t start- any leads on where to start appreciated!

Hey guys.

I have a 2013 4.6l v8 with just just over 100k miles. Never had a problem with it until yesterday.

I tried leaving last night and it won’t start. All lights power on in the cab but the starter won’t even try- not a click, nothing. I thought it may be a bad battery connection so started there (I had a ton of corrosion) but cleaning the connection didn’t help. I left my headlights on to see if they dimmed when starting and they don’t fade at all so I don’t think it’s a battery issue.

After hooking up the battery again my Trac control light is on (solid), 4lo is flashing, and Maintinance required flashes 5 times (I may be due for an oil change though, I’ll look when I head back out).

I can switch the truck from 2 to 4hi and hear it engage mechanically, but it won’t go into 4lo. I ended up rolling my truck 10’ or so thinking it was just in an odd alignment and it might pop in- it didn’t.

I’ve tried starting (in 2wd) in park and neutral but I get the same results- no response from the starter. The truck started fine yesterday morning and drove 40 miles without issue, it only happened when I tried to start it last night. I did notice some mouse droppings in my cab yesterday morning so I’m afraid there might be a chewed wire somewhere. I’d like to try to eliminate everything I can before I start pulling wires though.

If anyone has had similar issues (I’ve seen some in here with the VSC and/or ABS lights on, but my trucks not displaying them) and can offer some fixes, or even a place to start, I’d be grateful. Thanks in advance!

 

Maybe crankcase position sensor or faulty ignition switch? Totally guessing from what I've read on here.

 

Measure the voltage at the battery

 

Have you tried jumping it through the relay??

 

You can try to beat that starter, but if it's located in the same location as the 5.7l it's going to be a mission, just to get to it...

I found a way to try and jump it through the relay, when I was troubleshooting my issue but I'm struggling to find it again.

 

Check the negative ground battery cable , from the battery down to where it’s connected to the engine .

 

Thank you guys for all the responses. I had the battery tested today and it came back at 99% so it’s not that. I picked up a diagnostic reader there and it’s throwing a codes for the MAF (p0102) and p1613/4 (secondary air injection driver). Best I can tell my MAF is clean, but I’m gonna swap it out with a friends (same year/model) and will report back.

Thanks again!

edit: I swapped my MAF with his, my truck still didn’t turn over but his ran fine, so I can rule out the MAF itself. After hooking the battery back up, the 4lo light and trac control lights are off, but it’s throw those 3 codes as it’s been sitting. Also, the RSCA OFF light is on and I can’t turn it off using the button- and it won’t go in to 4hi anymore

 

May have to bypass the secondary air injection... as this will also limp mode the truck... or stall it.. if I'm not mistaken

 

I tried this afternoon and it started right up. I can rule out the relay itself being the issue- I’ve swapped it with my friends and made no difference to either truck.

The codes are still there but are shown as permanent so I can’t clear them (and don’t know if they’re from a secondary incident or not). I’m going to take it for a quick ride and see if it’s in limp mode but the actual CEL isn’t on so I don’t have a reason to believe it will be.

When I turn the key to start I hear a click in the dash so I don’t think it’s an issue with my ignition. I do however hear a loud humming coming from the passenger fender area. My friends is loud for maybe a second or two when the ignition is turned on and then gets quieter, mine does not quiet- it stays loud.

Also, I am able to switch it into 4lo when in neutral- can I rule out it being the neutral safety switch?

Just to update on some other stuff: I don’t have any lights on the dash- the CEL, RSCA, and Trac control lights are all off and 4lo isn’t flashing. It has no problem switching between 2, 4, and 4lo. Also just took it for a ride, it’s not in limp mode and the CEL didn’t come back on.

 

When you turn over does it click and all the dash turns off for a moment and then comes back on with nothing???

 

yeah, there’s a click by my left knee. When switched from on to start the lights on the dash don’t turn off (duplicated in my friends truck) but the radio turns off

 

Have you inspected the wiring harness to the engine?? Also have you checked the crankshaft sensor?? Probably easier before you check the harness as the engine relay malfunction would deal more with a short and the harness

 

You said you the battery tested and "it came back at 99%". Of what? Voltage (12.6+V)? Load (CCA)? How old is the battery?

The clicking in the dash is classic undercharged battery symptoms. But the hum in the left fender sounds like a lot of power trying to flow with high circuit resistance keeping that from happening. Therefore, all the switches, relay, and 12V low amp ignition switch wiring must be working for that hum to happen. If you continue to make your battery hum, you will need a new battery.

Once you are certain the battery is good, and certain that the battery cables are in good condition without internal corrosion (lumpiness under insulation), then I think you should suspect the starter and/or starter solenoid. If you have 12V power at the starter when the key is turned to "Start", and the starter does not crank, you have a bad starter/solenoid.

Here is a good video illustrating starter diagnosis:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKjdnQ0sHQc

 

I got a few vids I could share about it too, more 5.7 specific, but he did say his radio cuts out on start up... also average Toyota starter dies around 210k to 215k miles average.... at 100k more likely is secondary air injection.... but p1613 engine control relay its probably more related to the harness and rodents loving insulation like I loves cake.... lol